Immobilized?

I'm going to assume there's nothing wrong with the car. Could be my first mistake. Did a search on this, found a few hints to help: Hadn't started car in more than 7 days, so key fob no longer unlocked car. Unlocked manually, opened door (first mistake), no alarm. Got into car, put (dead) key in ignition (I did not know battery on fob was dead). Alarm. Pulled out key. Got new key. Read manual, reset to zero. No more alarm. No engine turning over either. Electricity working, just a "click-click-click." I assume this is the immobilizer that simply hasn't been turned off yet? 1. Any idea if I need my "usual" key only, rather than the spare? I shouldn't assuming they're both programmed to unlock the car. 2. Looks like I'm heading for a simple disconnect battery, I'm guessing. Also noticed that my trip odometer reset, as did my clock. I suspect that's because the car hasn't been turned on in a week, and the trickle charger is in my living room, not garage. Doh. Thanks.

Sounds like you have a weak or dead car battery. May want to try trickle charge it overnight or just jump start it using another car.

Hmm...yes usually I would agree. The key fob now with new battery fails to work. Given the complexity of these fobs/codes I'm tempted to thinks something's up with them, but I'll charge the battery.

I just noticed this, although it is subject to testing. Stupid light comes on when I'm having fun.

Edit post (David beat me to it; yes I like the signature): Never mind the above; I'm just in denial. Didn't want my battery to be dead but you're probably right. I am now going to ask an absolutely moronic question; page 221 of the manual (as in RTFM) has a picture that looks all the world like my engine compartment, not the frunk, showing + and - terminals for the battery. That can't be right? I don't trickle charge on the battery? I am just a complete idiot, right? I'm having a tough time grounding the charger is the thing. First time for everything. I'll "search" now. Second edit: Doh! The thing does exist!

Quotes source post: 9232311

Why not charge it from the front frunk though? That way, you can also check if the connections on the battery terminals are tight.

1. The farthest distance from the battery for me is the safest. 2. I can't find as easy of a ground spot in the frunk. I'm using the clips only; didn't want to connect negative to negative. Have posted manual pic with rear battery contacts in "things you didn't know," and this tidbit: "A weak battery may be recognized...when the light emitting diode in the key grip no longer flashes..."

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The LED in the key module head when it no longer flashes means the battery in the key module is dead or in rarer instances the electronics in the key head has locked up. In case it is the latter you can separate the key module halves remove the battery from the key's battery holder and leave the battery out for some minutes. Another trick is to reverse the battery in the key module battery for a moment. As you have probably already realized the car's battery is kaput. No way should a healthy batter drain down after just 7 days of the car sitting idle unless you left an inside light on. The security systems enters a partial hibernation mode after 5 days of vehicle inactivity to preserve vehicle battery life. After this happens, after the security system goes into partial hibernation mode, the downside is the key fob button will not unlock the door locks. While you can use the key to manually unlock the driver's door you have to put the key in the ignition and start the engine within 10 seconds after unlocking the door or the theft alarm will sound. My advice is to replace the car's battery. You might resurrect it with a recharge but the battery will never fully recover and will let you down again. I prefer to connect any battery charger cables directly to the battery. If you aren't careful if you connect a battery cable to some other location is can mar the paint or finish of whatever part you connect it to from either contact or a spark that jumps between the connector and the car. Sincerely, Macster.

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If you're worried about sparks during connection, you can connect the charger to the battery terminals first before plugging your charger in.

Macster, Usually I would agree with you. Your advice is always spot-on. I replaced the fob battery; it's new. This is straight from the Porsche manual. The key still works, so the electronics appear to be working fine. It's not unusual for me to go 5 days without using the car, so I'm used to the hibernation, but this was new. I unlocked manually, and then poof! Alarm problems, which is why I thought it was the immobilizer. I completely agree re: new battery. It's due for maintenance (annual) in any case, and it's time to change the battery. Battery last changed in 2006 (thank goodness for good records). And that's a good point about the battery; in this case it was an easier attachment for me, but that's good to pay attention to re: paint/spark/badness.

I'll take a guess that the reason you got the alarm to go off with the key was the computer was confused due to a low battery. Attempt to crank the car drops the battery below needed voltage for proper functioning and release key gives back the amps needed. Computer refreshing says soethings wrong and picks throw the alarm on. Maybe and maybe not, but nothing wrong with a new battery.

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Its pretty amazing your battery lasted this long.

Ya; wasn't mine prior to last year, but 5-6 years is end-of-lifespan for any battery at best. Am I foolish to head to the dealer for this? Was going to get annual maintenance done where I bought it. I like/trust them; they service a far, far nicer cadre of cars than mine own. Including a 356 of much worth. Plus I get the loaner Cayenne/Panamera for the week

I just replaced mine with an AGM battery. It was VERY easy and took me 10 minutes. Remember to hook up your battery vent again if you have a vented battery. If you don't mind spending more money then have the dealer do it with your regular maintenance.

My Cayenne chews up batteries like bubble gum. I wouldn't have a dealer do it. Don't you have a good indy nearby? And it's a freakin' battery, not an IMS refit.

Some battery choices: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...t-battery.html I prefer AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) Gel type batteries I replaced an Interstate MTP-H7 With a Braille 7548 AGM battery direct replacement. Braille AGM B7548 battery group 48 BCI Group: [?]Group 48 Length:10.9" (277mm) Width:6.8" (173mm) Height (without posts):7.5" (191mm) http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b7548# Interstate sizes that fit 2003 996 Group Interstate number Dimensions L x W x H Posts 48 MTP-H6 10-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top 94R MTP-H7 12-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top 49 MTP-H8 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

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"Am I foolish to head to the dealer for this?" Opinions and experiences vary. My opinion/experience is no you are not foolish. When my 02 Boxster's original battery failed I bought the replacement battery at the dealer and changed it myself, then took the old battery back to the dealer. When my Turbo's battery turned up weak and needing replacement I had this done at the dealer. Because I have my cars serviced there the battery was discounted and I think I got a break on the labor. Additionally the tech hooks up shop battery power to the car *before* the old battery is removed so all the comfort settings are retained. After the battery swap no need to reset the power seat settings, the radio buttons, the window limits, the E-Gas calibration, etc. Oh, I didn't know it at the time but shortly after this I was traveling with the car and needed tires and ended up at another dealer for tires. The tech after replacing the tires did an inspection of the car even removing the battery cover and the panels on either side. He told me he had never seen this area of a car so clean before. The next time I was at the first dealer I talked to the tech that replaced the battery. Long story short he told me he cleaned the area ahead of the cowling. I gave him a big thank you and praised him in front of his manager and the general manager for his excellent work. Anyhow, if one is replacing batteries often then it might make sense to shop around and hope a lower cost place will do as good a job. OTOH, I've owned my Boxster since 02 and my Turbo since 09 and have only had to replace the Boxster's battery once (after over 7 years of service) and the Turbo's battery once (I do not know how old the battery was when I bought the car but I do know the car was not used much and the battery probably suffered an early demise because of this) so having the dealer do a battery R&R every 5 years on average is not worth the bother of seeking out indy to do the work. Sincerely, Macster.

Thanks. Comfort in heading to the dealer. Definitely not an IMS retrofit, and I certainly have changed many batteries in my day, but it's due for service and I trust this particular shop. I do have indy shops, but none that loan me another Porsche, or any car for that matter, while it's there. My adventure to a local indy that I would bet is quite good also resulted in scuffed rims on my last Porsche. Was able to charge overnight and started up this evening. Off to service.