49 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBlinder Laser 'Diffuser' Install
Reported or suspected cause
perfect place
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
Anyway, it was the perfect place to drill a hole and install a grommet.
Leading evidence: 'perfect place' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'perfect place' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean rads while i was there' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Now I want a rear mounted transmitter too, even though I haven't even installed my front 2 units yet!
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then I ran my wires from the front sensors between the bumber and rad ducting, then under the little rubber pieces next to the headlights, and then under the sides of the weather strip for the front boot.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I personally tested my unit against a LIDAR ULTRAlyte gun, which is the favored weapon of choice here in Boise.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then I ran my wires from the front sensors between the bumber and rad ducting, then under the little rubber pieces next to the headlights, and then under the sides of the weather strip for the front boot.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
49 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Regarding the blinder, it's supposed to be top notch - and it's worked for me in the past.
Here are some pics.
Mounting the heads is a pain on the stock '02 front bumper - they have to point straight ahead and they need to be level. The contours of the bumper make it difficult to keep them hidden, much less any place to mount the brackets. I thought about epoxying the heads (diffusers) - but wanted the option to remove them in the future - didn't like the idea of gluing them as much as screwing them on...
I had to route the wires through THREE firewalls! There's one from behind the front bumper into the trunk, trunk to battery compartment, and then through to the cabin. What a PAIN!
I wanted to keep the interior relatively stealthy - mounted the switch on the side panel for the center console - it was easy to get to and I figured reasonable to replace if I wanted to reverse the installation. I put the warning LED in the "batwing" console panel between the heated seats, and the speaker's up top behind the center console. I powered everything off the pigtail for the phone - along with the hardwired V1.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM for more pics, or experience with the Blinder. Finally - I have worked out a very good deal on the Blinder - and can probably supply them to folks for about $350 in the future if anyone's interested... Rennlister to Rennlister via Paypal...
My front bumper looks like hell - just needs a little TLC with a wash and polish... And I haven't detailed the interior since doing all the work.
I had the previous version of this unit, theM20 in my last car and it saved me a few tickets in Florida. They're ruthless with laser - no getting out and it's supposedly deadly accurate.
Two personal testimonials:
Living in South beach - they used to set up laser on Alton Rd (35mph) and they were shooting one day (I never went over 40mph) and I noticed the officer shoot me, then look at the gun, then shoot me, then look at the gun, I turned the blinder off, and he shot me and moved on to the next car...
In Sebring, FLA - they had set up a test site apparently - and same thing happened to me.
However, I also have a friend in Boca Raton, Fl who got a ticket, and was rightly reimbursed by the company as they include a ticket refund policy under specific conditions. However, he questions whether he actually got hit with laser - neither his V1 nor his Blinder went off. Who really knows?
Do they work? Well, if it's only 70% effective, it's worth it if you live in a high-use laser area, or if you're a habitual speeder (I personally think it's probably 95+% effective). Will they be outdated? Probably - but for less than $400 - it's worth it in this day and age of insane insurance rates.
Yep, my LaserBlinder has saved my butt on several occasions. Paid for itself several times over, and I'll just have it removed and reinstalled in my next car when I make a change to a 997.
How do these things work, are they passive, or active? Do they actually emit some sort of signal to confuse the officer's equipment? If so, they are totally illegal in most states. Not that I have a problem with that, but the fine is huge if you get caught with them.
They are active when they read laser - then they send out a corresponding infrared beam that confuses the gun. You want to slow down and turn off the unit so they can get a reading to minimize the officer's suspicion. Better to NOT torment them if you can help it... but I hear it's not uncommon for them to have to take a reading or two before locking in your speed.
These are laser - infrared light - which is governed by the Food & Drug Administration (FDA), not by the FCC like Radar. Why is laser regulated by the FDA? I suspect because of medical procedures, agriculture, whatever... The FDA does not have any limitations about using a laser-jammer such as this but some states have enacted individual laws. On the other hand,
Radar
jammers are microwave, governed by FCC and illegal at the federal level as I understand the laws.
Here's a clip from radarbusters.com a.k.a. Radar Roy's site:
Legal
There are no federal laws in the U.S.A. that prohibit the ownership and/or operation of laser jammers.
However, some states have enacted their own laws that do prohibit the ownership and/or use of these devices. These states include: California, Nebraska, Minnesota, Utah, Oklahoma, Tennessee, South Carolina, Virginia, Colorado, Illinois, and Washington DC.
Just got to thinking - maybe I shouldn't have posted this! No need to add fuel to the fire in the whole "us vs. them" battle of speed enforcement!
Should I delete this post? Any opinions? Do I need to worry about "big brother" watching this board???
If you're worried about big brother watching, does that mean they've already won?
Seriously, though, it sounds like you're acting within the law and haven't done anything illegal. I vote for leaving the post up - it might help someone some day.
My SRX also has detector/emitters mounted in the front air intake, both sides. It's claimed to be effective to within 400' of the source, at which point the source becomes so strong, the source overpowers the emitters.
Yet....due to their placement inside the front, I doubt they would be effective if the source was from a high overpass. If your speed was sampled from a distance, the angle might allow them to work.
Since no detector/emitter is a panacea (due to instant-on radar, being followed, etc.), I still try to stay in a speed zone where I think a ticket might be discretionary rather than required. So, I use the detector more as a way to be advised that speeds are being sampled. Who knows how long it will be before we get to speed averaging as in England....but it will probably happen.
Finally, I'm looking to get the Escort's 9500ci soon but have been wondering how the diffuser install looks on a 996. Can you take pictures that are a bit further away?
Do you have any pics of the complete install? I am most concerned about the firewalls. Can you please either post here or PM me details on how and where you ran the wires? Much appreciated!
Wow! I've always heard and read that Rocky Mountain Radar products are as useless as paperweights....
Can't take pics now - work's got me too busy - but it's not a terrible process - I wired it into the phone connector in the center stack - and I actually drilled a new hole into the plug for the firewall of the main cabin, wrapped the wires with electrical tape at the right spot and then essentially pulled them through until I achieved another good seal, or so I think. There's also a plug from the luggage compartment to the battery compartment and one from the front to the luggage compartment, I'd suggest you take a look, and I'll try to get some close-ups in the ext week if you still need them.
It was a pretty fun project, but a pain to get the heads pointed straight and level - on a curved bumper. Some might prefer to simply use some silicone and "glue" them to the splitter??? I didn't think that would look right...
Email or PM if you need specific help.
Not interested in a debate - but worth noting that some rather reputable sources don't think much of the folks or products at Rocky Mountain Radar... I don't have any personal experience, and am not challenging your claims.
Some internet research shows very common results....
KYTV TV - Springfield MO
November 2005
Radar Roy was featured in an investigative report concerning the Rocky Mountain Radar jammers. During their independent test, the police gave an "F" to their jamming abilities.
http://www.radarbusters.com/radarjammerintroarticle.cfm
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Accessories/laserradar.htm
Radar Jammers
Because radar is a 50 year old technology, it is kind of imprecise. Therefore jamming is tough, you need a wide bandwidth and a fair amount of power. None of the "passive" jammers do anything. These are sold mainly by Rocky Mountain Radar. Basically a box with a power jack and an LED, this is a great business. Active jammers are big and heavy.
http://matt.simerson.net/reference/radar-scam.shtml
[QUOTE=eDoug;6234935]some rather reputable sources
Some internet research shows very common results....
http://www.radarbusters.com/radarjammerintroarticle.cfm
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Accessories/laserradar.htm
[QUOTE]
very reputable....
Maybe reputable was the wrong choice of words. Perhaps believable...
http://www.speedlabs.com/radar_laser_jammers.html
I dunno - to each his own.
Regarding the blinder, it's supposed to be top notch - and it's worked for me in the past. They're using laser all over the place in my local area, so it's only a matter of time before I get some first-hand experience, hopefully without the consequences of a ticket
I also use a V1 for radar - but nothing (except the RMR jammer supposedly) is effective against instant-on radar.
Boy, not only did this post help someone some day, it's me, and today! I'm helping a friend install the laser blinder system on his car - we're doing 3 transmitters in the front and one in the rear.
To minimize "holes through the firewalls", I'm going to keep the CPU in the trunk - the 3 front sensors just need to be wired into there - and the wire from the rear sensor I have traveling under the plastic covers down the center of the car and up around the edge of the engine compartment.
All that's left to do is put the switch and buzzer into the cockpit from the trunk - I think there are some grommets I can use by the pedal box.
Something I posted, helpful? Go figure! Since I installed this, what?, 2 years ago, I don't think I've ever been hit with laser, although driving the wife's car back north from Florida on New Year's day, I was zapped by a guy on the overpass in Georgia with laser.
It's there - and it makes me feel a little better - it's rare I drive steadily more than 10mph over the limit. However, I've been known for short bursts into triple digits for grins from time to time. The laser jammers give me a little peace of mind that those indulgences might not land me in jail if I ever do it at the wrong time.
Cheers - good luck - it's really rather simple. When I say I drilled through the firewall into the cabin in my original post, I should have said, I drilled a new hole (small) into the rubber grommet that passes into the cabin, and then put enough tape around the wires that I got a great seal wedged in there when I pulled them through the grommet.
Thanks for the post! I've got M27's but have yet to install them. I'd really like to see where/how you punched thru the firewalls. But yes, mounting them level and without gluing them is what keeps me from just going out and doing it. That and the fact that I don't have my garage built yet.
You've got me inspired to finally do this!
Alright, here's more information and the pictures I've taken so far:
Remove front bumper and remove black trim piece:
A closeup to mounting one of the side transmitters (bracket pop-riveted to plastic):
Backside of bumper cover with transmitters and all assembled:
Holes going into trunk - this is on the driver's side, between the center radiator duct (GT3) and the AC line:
The spot is kind of right next to the emergency trunk release latch - because the carpet goes vertically here, there's room for the grommets and for the wires to bend:
I left the camera in the house when I was working on the rear transmitter - I took the rear bumper cover off and mounted the transmitter between the license plate lights, then sent the wire into the engine compartment through an existing hole (I had to use a spare grommet of my own - because I'll use the grommet the blinder came with where it goes into the trunk.) I'll try to take pictures of that tomorrow.
For my LI system I took off the front bumper. Cleaned rads while I was there. Then I ran my wires from the front sensors between the bumber and rad ducting, then under the little rubber pieces next to the headlights, and then under the sides of the weather strip for the front boot. Then used the rubber groment near the right side on the battery. I then used the phone power plug to power the CPU. I mounted a new Rear window defroster switch for on/off and LED flashing.
Under testing I got a several JTG and a few punch throughs. My heads are recessed though. So I am happy with the results. No rear protection yet.
Link
to testing results.
We finished the installation - thought you guys would like to see (a bunch) more pictures.
1 transmitter mounted on the rear bumper above the license plate bracket. Wire goes through bumper cover into the engine compartment, over to the right side, along with main wiring harness along the engine bay and down over the transmission (so it's out of the way if the engine or tranny ever has to come out).
Then the wire goes along the bottom of the car, under the plastic covers, along with a bunch of plumbing.
All the way up to the front trunk by the left side of the steering rack, and into the trunk (high enough that it's protected from any debris that might go under the car).
And here's the wire coming into the inside of the trunk, way down at the bottom.
Once all the trunk carpeting is back in place, the wires are all tidied up under the brake master cylinder.
And there are 2 wires - one for the switch and power and one for the LED and buzzer - that have to go into the cabin. They are routed behind the brake booster and through an existing rubber grommet.
And go by the AC receiver dryer to a plastic cover above the pedal cluster.
I think this cover is where the cabin filter would go on a right-hand drive car... Anyway, it was the perfect place to drill a hole and install a grommet.
Now that we're done in the trunk, it's time to put it all back together. You can see the CPU unit velcro'ed to the carpet, easily accessible, by the brake system plastic cover.
We decided to put the switch and status LED right next to the headlight switch. That made the installation minimally intrusive to the interior and puts it right by the steering wheel for easy access by the left hand. I took the headlight switch / vent panel off.
Did a little dremel work to the back of the little cover, and mounted the switch and LED. Rear view.
Front view.
All put together.
Inside, next to the switch and the vent linkage, I secured the buzzer with double sided tape.
And then put it back in the dash.
The wires dropped down nicely to the fuse panel - the ground wire was screwed to the chassis.
And the power wire, which has an in-line fuse, was routed through the back side of the fuse panel and plugged into an empty fuse slot that has switched 12v power (that spot must be for an option this car does not have...)
Time to level all of the sensors/transmitters with the car on the ground.
And here's how the car looks from the back.
And from the front.
Hopefully it will function as well as it looks! (Total installation time was about 10 hours - that includes head scratching and figuring out the cable routing.)
SWEEEEEEET picts and writeup! I love it. Now I want a rear mounted transmitter too, even though I haven't even installed my front 2 units yet!
You've got me excited again to do it.
I actually measured and asked the manufacturer. They think it's fine - since they work line-of-sight and have a clear view down the road. From 100 feet in front of the car there shouldn't issue.
Once we get some real-world results, I'll let you know.
But since the transmitters have to be level with the car (not angled up or down), would pushing them forward really make that much of a difference? I'm guessing the transmitter's dispersion angle would determine how effective it would be at blinding guns on an overpass regardless of them being a bit shrouded or not.
But good point. I never thought of the overpass situation.
Complete solution is to have $3k worth of these things facing forward, angled up, pointed off to the sides a bit front and back, and pointed straight back.
The preferred method of installation has the
face
of the module completely unobstructed (as is the center module). These are also lower than optimum. Will be interesting to see results of an angle shot to the headlight which is a primary target.
Yeah I hear what you're saying now.
Pcars don't have many options for mounting the transmitters other than in that lower grill opening. You thinking of a different place to mount? Maybe install the GT3 intake vent at the front lip of the trunk (hood) lid and stick them in there facing outward. Not much space for that though, and the surface there is at a steep angle; you'd probably see the transmitters sticking out.
What a great write up! I am almost done installing mine right now. Instead of going under the car for the rear sensor I found through doing research that there is a grommet in the back of the car allowing an easier way to get into the main cabin.
Just search for rear backup camera installs and you will find a easy shortcut for those of us without a lift.
I read the reviews of the laser (LIDAR) jammers and went with the Laser Elite. It was one of the few jammers out there that advertised complete jam to gun (JTG.) I purchased the three head model for my 05 Turbo "S" Mounted two head units in the front grill, and the third one directly over the license plate. The system is fire and forget, as you ramp up the sensitivity to maximum, and you are damn near invisible. LIDAR operates on a very small 904/5 nm wavelength. Effective jammers take the officers light signal, and bounce it back to him in a manner that overpowers his initial burst. Some LIDAR guns will read nothing, and some of the newer guns will read "ER4" with tells the officer the signal is being jammed. I personally tested my unit against a LIDAR ULTRAlyte gun, which is the favored weapon of choice here in Boise. I did four passes against the gun, and at almost 1000 meters the jammer activated (almost within a millisecond of the Valentine V1) and jammed the signal to the gun, period. No display of either distance or speed. Moved to a parking lot. Laser point directly at the car, aimed right at the headlight, and the unit jammed the gun to 3 1/2 feet from the officer. These things work. I'll grab some pics of the elite install. No easy task putting it in on a modern 911 though.
I have a K40 diffuser (front and back) that has the LEDs embedded in my rearview mirror. I'm not sure where the audio alarm is hidden. This set up came with my car and I haven't found a way to turn it off. Essentially, it works as an Infiniti detector. Apparently Infiniti's come with some kind of laser system that triggers my alarm. Very annoying.
Here are some of the pics of my install of the Laser Elite. The picture with the license plate shows the rear jammer sensor. My 996 has a blank button located under the manual spoiler extend retract button. I drilled a hole here and inserted the warning LED, and then beside it, I drilled another hole for the speaker. The power switch is located in the ash tray, and I left about six inches of wire under it, and then did a molex type connector that lets me take it out. The last picture shows the location of the left front jammer sensor (there is an identical one on the right.) After dicking with this placement for a couple of times, using double sided tape, I think I will move the location of these sensors back into the grill a couple more mm's
looks nice. im a big fan of jamers. have blinder myself. turbosjedi, any chance you have a lidar gun laying around or know where to find one in the eagle, boise, merridian area?
really? have may members of another forum in ca that have jammers. if you jam to kill and let them get a reading after you slow down then shouldnt have a problem. and i heard that it was just a small ticket the same as a speeding with no points or anything.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.