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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWheel Lock Be Damned!
Leading reported evidence
Replace locks
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Amazing thing is, my friend replaced the locks after he managed to get 'em off!
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Suggestion
I would recommend periodically checking wheel bolt torque (including that they're not over-torqued) especially if some work has been done with the wheels.
Leading evidence: 'Replace locks' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check wheel bolt torque (including' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Wish I had known about this before I spent $163 to have mine removed and replaced with bolts.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Wouldn't you know it, I ran into trouble on my very first try today.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A friend of mine had a problem where a shop used an impact gun on his wheel locks, and eventually split the "key".
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a similar technique on my old SL's BBS wheels.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check wheel bolt torque (including
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
I would recommend periodically checking wheel bolt torque (including that they're not over-torqued) especially if some work has been done with the wheels.
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I would recommend periodically checking wheel bolt torque (including that they're not over-torqued) especially if some work has been done with the wheels.
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Suggestion
If the socket dosen't work use a center punch on the center of the wheel lock then drill a small pilot hole into the wheel lock 3 mm or so in diameter and about 10 mm deep.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T212127Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Believe it or not, I've never removed my wheels since I bought the car from the previous owner more than 4 years ago. Wouldn't you know it, I ran into trouble on my very first try today. It turned out the wheel lock key in the spare tire cover wasn't the right fit, so off I went to the dealership to buy a replacement. The weird thing is not a single one of the service tech's 30 factory master keys fits my wheel lock bolt, even though all of the tech guys agree mine looks factory. Is this possible? The previous owner bought the car from the very same dealership, and it was exclusively serviced there. In fact, he had the tires changed to SO-2s at that dealership prior to selling it to me.
The car came with the factory 18-inch turbo-look rims, so it's unlikely the previous owner somehow swapped out the wheel lock bolt with an aftermarket one. The tech guys don't believe there's an aftermarket wheel lock bolt for the 911 either. Is there some aftermarket specialty tool that can remove a wheel lock, or is my only option to have the dealer shear off the wheel lock bolt?
Thank God I've never had a flat all this time!
A friend of mine had a problem where a shop used an impact gun on his wheel locks, and eventually split the "key". He ordered a new key. New one broke, by hand, before loosening several of the bolts. He wound up, very carefully, using a Dremel tool to form a hex head on the darn things and removed 'em with a normal socket.
Bill
In defense of your friend, it depends on where you live/park and how much your wheels cost. The real idiots could be the shop. It amazes me how "all-over-the-map" bolts are torqued when I get a car back from the shop. Seriously, I weigh 200lbs and have had to stand on a torque wrench to loosen bolts sometimes. I always retorque bolts after getting a car back from the shop. Another factor is that if you never remove your wheels (i.e. for cleaning/waxing) or to ever retorque the bolts, they can rust in place.
OK, I withdraw my devil's advocating defense, even more so if they are stamped steel wheels.
I would recommend periodically checking wheel bolt torque (including that they're not over-torqued) especially if some work has been done with the wheels. Also, apply a thin coating of antiseize on the threads and under the collars per the manual.
They were alloys, with the nuts deep set into wells. Thus the hard job of forming the hex head with the Demel. Nothing would fit down in there.
(and he's very **** about stuff and didn't want to risk any damage to the finish on the wheels)
Speaking of anti-sieze, is it possible to get the Optimoly they call for?
Bill
It's good advice as mentioned above to: 1. ensure that you have the wheel lock key for the locking lug nut; 2. loosen and retorque the lugs once a year (if you live in the north, that happens automatically when you go to the winter setup); 3. before putting the bolts in place, I always clean and lightly lube them.
Rusted lug nuts and overtorquing the lug nuts can really ruin your day if you get a flat in the middle of nowhere.
buy a piece of steel pipe, in a diameter that you can hammer the end of the pipe over your wheel lock. Once you have hammered the end of the pipe onto the wheel lock....take a pipe wrench and turn the pipe, thus removing said wheel lock. Yes, it works if you get the right sized pipe.
I used a similar technique on my old SL's BBS wheels. I found a 1/2" drive socket of the appropriate internal size - standard/metric 6pt/12pt provides a lot of choices. Just drive it over the wheel lock and then use a ratchet or bbar to remove. May cost you a socket, but is cheaper than other alternatives.
Wish I had known about this before I spent $163 to have mine removed and replaced with bolts.
Dealer charged 1 hour. I almost lost it
One day I was removing a wheel and the key broke in two
Thanks for the responses. Guess I'll give the "hammering-in-a-socket" technique a try before going back to the dealer. I'm still puzzled as to why none of the 30 master keys fits my factory wheel lock.
This really puts a damper on my MKI front bumper DIY.
I have been considering removing my wheels, if I ever get any free time, to clean the wheel wells and the inside part of the wheels. However, after reading some of your horror stories about broken or stripped keys I am now thinking twice about it. With my luck lately I am sure to break the key.
BTW, how do you torque the keys to the correct specs when reinstalling them? I have a torque wrench but the key will not fit a wrench.
To avoid all these scenario's I remove my locking lugs & center caps before going to a store for new tires, when I get back to my shop I torque the locking lugs to 85 ft/lbs. The puzzle lock key can strip/break easily if not centered in the locking bolt.
I have a strip of tape wrapped around my lug wrench, 7 inches from the center of the socket. I weigh 165 lbs., so when I place the wrench on the nut, with the wrench handle parallel to the ground and stand with my foot centered on the tape (no bouncing), voila!, 96 ft-lbs.
YMMV.
ps. I also have a torque wrench.
If the socket dosen't work use a center punch on the center of the wheel lock then drill a small pilot hole into the wheel lock 3 mm or so in diameter and about 10 mm deep. Then get a bottle of cutting fluid and a 14 mm or so drill bit and drill the head off the wheel lock.
You'll probably spend about $45 between the drill bits and cutting fluid.
It should take about an hour or so.
