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YOUR RESEARCHHead Light Polishing in L.A.
Leading reported evidence
Use polishing kit made by 3m
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Leading evidence: 'Use polishing kit made by 3m' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use 15-20 psi of compressed air' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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600 for severe oxidation) and patiently sand until perfectly smooth - I used a small sponge as a sanding block.
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Suggestion
If you have the pop-out washers, after removing the headlights, use 15-20 psi of compressed air to hold those out while unclipping them.
Use drill - lower rpms and keep it constantly moving
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Suggestion
You do need to be careful if using a drill - lower RPMS and keep it constantly moving.
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Suggestion
Takes less than an hour to do both using your own power drill.
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Any recommendations on where I can get my Headlights polished and cleaned up in Los Angeles? I have a little bit of haze and yellow film built up on my headlights. Thanks in advance!
Do it yourself. It costs about $25 and two-three hours of your time.
Left side is in-progress, right one is done.
I used the polishing kit made by 3M. You need a corded drill to do it though, a cordless drill won't last long enough to do this properly.
I had mine done at
Lavaggio
in Agoura Hills. The cost was $85 and it took about an hour. I maybe expected them to look like new, but I am pleased with the results. Call in advance for an appointment (
[phone removed]
) so that you don't have to wait. Good luck
+1 on the DYI. A couple of added tips. If you have the pop-out washers, after removing the headlights, use 15-20 psi of compressed air to hold those out while unclipping them. Consider applying xpel film (no affiliation) to preserve your work - but expect a bit of a wait for the cloudy moisture spots to disappear, more in cooler or humid conditions. GL!
I tried to do this myself but it didn't make much of a difference. Maybe I didn't spend enough time polishing it?
How long should you polish each one and how much pressure do you apply with the drill?
The trick is to start with the right grit waterproof paper (i.e. 600 for severe oxidation) and patiently sand until perfectly smooth - I used a small sponge as a sanding block. Then use progressively finer paper to 2000. I finished with a foam drill pad from a cheap Harbor Freight kit with white polishing compound. The results were absolutely like new.
The 3M kit I used started with 400 grit, then moved up to 800, 1200 then 2000 for polishing if I remember correctly.
The key is to not move to the next grit until all of the scratches from the previous grit are gone (meaning, don't move to the 1200 grit from the 800 grit until you've polished out every last scratch from the 400 grit step. If they are still there when you move to the next step, they will still be there when you're done).
Did mine with 3M kit, very easy, cost 19.99 onsale. Applied a 3M film to it aftewards to protect it. Just be careful not to overheat the plastic, or stay on one spot for too long.
The 3M kit makes this an easy do-it-yourself. Takes less than an hour to do both using your own power drill. Just make sure that you heavily mask off the bodywork around the headlights first with 3-4 layers of painter's tape. And if your drill is battery powered have a backup battery fully charged.
Agreed... if you have a bench area to work and a safe way to secure them firmly when you sand.
Or your wife is really strong and does not mind a little plastic dust.
I had my guy paint guy do it. He sanded them down and sprayed a coating on it and it hasn't changed color one bit. Its been clear for years now. I guess he uses some crazy clear thats made for it. He's in Anaheim and seriously affordable and cheap. And he guarantees they won't fade or yellow for years.
PM me for his info
+1 on the 3M kit - used it on my VWs and took the lenses from nasty to niiiice. You do need to be careful if using a drill - lower RPMS and keep it constantly moving. If you do accidentally make a burn mark on the lens, you can generally buff it back out, but it'll take a while and the plastic will get thin, so just be conscientious.
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