Identify this engine part!

I need help working out what I'm looking at. What is the engine component that you will find on the driver's side next to the mufflers and above the curve of the headers? Here's a photo and I've outlined the component with an orange lasso. Any help figuring out what this is would be useful. I think it's the crank casing, but I'm not sure. The reason I ask is that I have a small, but annoying oil leak and I'm trying to figure out what it is, what's causing it and the complexity of fixing it. Thanks in advance!

Here's another photo from further out. At the top of the screen is the driver's side muffler, then you see into the frame the part I circled above.

I believe it's the cam cover.

That is the cam cover. Very difficult to reseal with the engine in the car.

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Thanks! Any idea why it would be leaking oil and how difficult it is to fix?

That is the cam cover, however have you checked and ro replaced the spark plug tubes which could cause to dripping down.. That was mine problem....

Thanks guys. I'm actually relieved that it's relatively minor. If I'm lucky it's just spark plug tubes and if I'm unlucky it's the seal. Any idea on labor/cost to fix and if I should get anything else done at the same time?

Spark tubes, maybe a couple hours labor tops, the tubes are like $5 or 6 bux each, times three per side of course. Cam cover reseal, prob more like 8-12 hours labor (engine & trans has to be dropped at least 8 inches, and best to do the work when it's completely removed) If you have the cam cover removed, consider replacing the variocam actuator & solenoid combo ($750 part) if yours is a 3.4L. Also change the variocam pads and cam to cam chain regardless. Buy new cam cover bolts as they are micro encapsulated meaning they come with a little sealant to prevent leaks (they are maybe $1 a piece). Find a shop that has done this before because the application of the sealant is critical to prevent future leaks. If the leak is not severe and you aren't losing/consuming a lot of oil maybe just live with it until an actuator needs to be replaced.

Definitely start with the spark plug tubes. Very typical to have them leak...

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Thanks! This gives me great comfort. At least I know that I don't have to rush to do this and that I don't have an impending major issue. I was already adding in the cost of clutch, IMS, etc as potential additions if I had to go through the hassles of an engine drop. How would I tell if it's the spark plug tubes and is it a DIY?

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Yeah, I'm searching now and see the threads from when you had the issue... this doesn't sound so bad.

Hmm. So in reading the threads on spark plug tubes it appears that the only way to tell if it's the tubes is to pull and replace them. Either way, looks like an easy and inexpensive way to start. I'll start here and see if it helps. I checked through my records and see that the spark plugs were changed 10,000 miles ago (11/2008) and the oil was changed 2,000 miles ago (5/11), so looks like this could be a simple and and out job on the plug tubes, without the need for more service. RL to the rescue again! Thanks guys!

Take a look at the seal on the cam advance mechanism. They tend to leak too.

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Where is that?

Now, one thing that might help us here. When I stuck my head under the car this evening it was not clear to me that the leak was coming from higher than the bottom edge of the cam shaft cover, so does that help diagnose whether it's the tubes, the can advance mechanism or the cover seal?

The cam advance solenoid cover is on the left side of the cam cover towards the front of the car (drivers side). It is very easy to replace and inexpensive. There is a wire sticking out of it which is the solenoid, and there is a cover around that which can leak (if it's 3.4L). The same solenoid cover (maybe 2 inches wide) exists on the passenger side but is a little harder to access, and is on the front of the engine (rear or the car). If that cover leaks, it will drip down below the wire that sticks out of it, and not across the entire cover. The best way to deal with leaks anywhere is to clean the area and then use the car and monitor the leak to see where it's coming from and to diagnose the severity. It's possible it could have been there for a very long time and it really isn't that big a deal even if it looks really bad, if the car is not using a ton of oil, leaking all over the floor, or has no other symptoms then I wouldn't really worry about it. A lot of cars leak a little oil and it's usually no big deal. There are many ways to clean the area. You can start with something mild, a rag soaked with some mild degreaser on it for example maybe 25% simple green/75% water. Then if that doesn't clean it maybe something more potent, spray the area with 75% simple green, 25% water followed by rinsing with a garden hose, maybe a scrub brush and/or a rag. Then if it is still greasy, spray with gunk engine degreaser, then rinse with plenty of water, then start engine to burn off, however that stuff smells really bad and is pretty caustic, it's a last resort. There are plenty of other good ways to degrease as well...

Thanks! From memory I don't remember seeing any oil around the solenoid wires, but I'll look when I get home from work tomorrow. Based on the advice given here and also given privately by Macster, I'm less concerned than I was earlier today and will take time to watch this some more. I'll start tomorrow with looking for signs of oil at points higher than the lower edge of the cam cover seal. I'll also clean off the oil that I can get to and see where that gets me. I've been aware of this since the late fall after my local dealer severely over filled the oil during a service and I didn't notice it for 2 weeks. Prior to that I know that my car was bone dry, as I routinely get under the lift during the annual state inspection to check for signs of oil. This doesn't appear to be more than a severe annoyance. I see a single drop of oil in the oil pan after each time I drive the car. Never more than that, so the only hassle is wiping up the oil drop from the pan. My main concern was making sure that it wasn't the first signs of something more serious and whether I needed to take immediate action. I appreciate the help[ you guys have given in helping me to trouble shoot and set my mind at ease. I'll report back more tomorrow.

After reading that I'm sure there's nothing to worry about, carry on.

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I like the new Avatar!

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Put engine oil dye in for about $10 and see exactly where it is coming from. May save you (like it did me) a lot of money.

Spark plug tubes that came out of my car....

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this is easy to do, i never done any oil change or nothing on my cars and I attempted the spark plug change and tube, it went without problems. The big thing for me was taking off the muffler, its a Canadian car so the lugs were rusted so I gave up and did it without taking them off, if you have smallish hands and right tools its easy to do. There is lots of DYI manuals on the subject. Start from the driver side its easier to do, if you are not taking of the muffler if you take off mufflers they are both easy to do. You can clean all the leaking oil with Carb cleaner and some old t-shirt, spray cleaner wipe and repeat 100 of times. Will come out great.

Here are a few pictures of the cam advance cap and seal. Sorry that my engine was so dirty, damn Chicago winters! These were leaking on both sides of my engine. I would guess that it is the spark plug tubes from the looks of your pictures. And it is really unusual that the cam cover itself to develop a leak. It is almost always the tubes or the seals.

Thanks guys. Looks like you guys were right, although, I can't get a look at the spark plugs, as they're covered by a metal plate - no way of getting in there without pieces coming off the car. The good news is that the dampness is a fair way up the side of the camshaft cover, so that pretty much confirms that it's not the seal, as the oil would never get all the way up there from a bottom side leak. Nice job! I appreciate the guidance!

Hi Wayne, I have a leak at the exact same spot on my engine. The dealer confirmed that it was indeed a spark plug tube leak and quoted me some outrageous figure to replace the tubes, which I declined of course. I just figured I'd replace the tubes when replacing the plugs during the 60K mile service. At the rate that I've been driving the car lately however, that will be three years down the road...

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Hey! Good to see you again! I'm glad to see that this is a known an minor issue. From what I've read in other threads, this shouldn't be an expensive job for a mechanic to fix. I'm surprised that you were quoted a high figure. Sadly, my plugs were done 10K miles ago, so I don't think I can really wait until next time they need changing, so I'll have to pull the trigger and get it done. I have to do my state inspection in the next 12 weeks, so I figure I'll look into doing it then.

What is confusing about this, is the the photos I've seen on this topic show the plugs as being visible from above and below, but it was just impossible to see them on my engine - that metal plate you see in the photo above just covers everything and there's no way to get at the plugs without removing that plate. I wonder if the engine configuration on the '99 was different from some of the cars seen in other threads.

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yes there is a cover, just take it off two 10mm screws. just ratchet it off it will take less than 2 min.

Replacing the tubes on your car is very easy. I actually removed the muffles when I did mine as it made it much easier. Then you remove those covers as stated above. Then the coils, then (and I used the 1" transom plug), pull the plugs out. I replaced all to include new O rings. They push right in and you do not have to remove the spark plugs.

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To be honest, it didn't look easy, but the more I read you might be right. I'm sure I'm missing something and that I don't have the right tools, but it doesn't seem to bad. Here's the takeaway of what I've read: 1) jack up the car 2) remove the rear wheel 3) remove the muffler 4) remove the heat shield 5) Disconnect the coil packs (two screws and a connector) 6) Remove the tubes with a rubber tube connector, which appears to be available from Walmart 7) Snap the new tubes in place 8) put everything back in place. Is it really this simple, or am I missing something? I'll be honest in that as usual, the "instructions" that I've read here always make assumptions and don't detail every step, so it's hard to tell if I'll get into the job and find that I'm screwed, or I'm up against a step that is not explicitly detailed in the forum post. It took a while for me to realize that the spark plugs are recessed down into the plug tubes, but don't need to be removed... I read what you were saying, but without seeing it that was a little confusing at first. If it really is this easy, then I may try doing it myself.

I think your instructions are complete, but I’d wait for confirmation from someone who has already done this DIY. One item that I can see being a potential problem with this project is the removal of the mufflers. I have never removed the mufflers on my 996 but I have removed mufflers from several different cars in the past and they have always been a real PITA. The muffler bolts were usually at the point of being welded on from the heat/corrosion inherent with this part of the vehicle. In fact, a couple of times I needed to cut them off and replace them with new bolts. This is especially true for cars that are driven in the winter and subjected to corrosive salt. If you are going to do this project yourself, soak the muffler bolts with PB Blaster, or some other type of penetrating oil, the night before the project. Doing so should make the muffler bolts far easier to remove. Also, make sure that the bolts aren’t corroded, to the point of being impossible to remove, before starting the project.

I fix stuff like this for a living in my line of work. What I would recommend first is go to a self service car wash and use some engine degreaser or if that's not available, wheel cleaner and spray the area close up and thoroughly with the wand. Next use a high pressure blast of soap and thoroughly wash it down followed by a rinse. Watch it over the next few days or even weeks to access how bad the leak/seep is. If it's not bad, leave well enough alone. If it's bad, you will know exactly the path and source of the leak. Wife's Boxster has been mainly sitting in the garage this winter and I found a couple of small drips underneath on the garage floor. I took the car out about 6 weeks ago and washed it down where there was some oily residue in the RMS area. It's still clean and dry, no drips on the floor either. Often seepages will either get worse or sometimes go away. GL!

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Hmm, he's from NC. I don't think they use too much salt there. I've taken the mufflers off my (LA & Seattle) car multiple times now. It's a 5 minute project (assuming you let some PB Blaster sit on them the night before). Very easy.

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Yes. It is a very easy DIY.. 1) jack up the car--Correct 2) remove the rear wheel--Yes 3) remove the muffler--Yes both sides 4) remove the heat shield—Yes both sides 5) Disconnect the coil packs (two screws and a connector)-- Yes 6) Remove the tubes with a rubber tube connector, which appears to be available from Walmart—Yes. This is a boat transom plug. I could not find it at Walmart but I did in a boat shop for five dollars. I used a one inch plug and if you need to make it a little bigger just wrap some tape around it. My spark plug tubes came right out without a problem. Also you can order it on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=transom+plug&x=12&y=20[/url] 7) Snap the new tubes in place—They push in place. I actually ordered the Porsche recommended grease that you need to coat the new O rings with the new tubes. That cost approximately $38.00 I think. There are other cheaper greases that you can use. 8) put everything back in place—Yes. It took me 2.5 hours total to complete this job and most of the time was spent taken off the muffers.

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Hmmm, he and the car are originally from PA. Know the facts...

Yah thats the same looking leak I had for a couple years before the engine went a dumped oil into the water then started sucking oil into the water when cooling off. Not to scare you. Just sitting here sucking on cough drops and drinking cold medication. Dharn55 they ought to make your weather illegal or at least the salts that oxidized the aluminum. Makes an oil leak a good thing to have on your car. Maybe get a can of the spray on cozmolin.

Thanks guys. Yes, it's the unwritten stuff on getting off the mufflers that causes the issues, so I'm glad that this is being discussed - it's important to know and is an important factor in whether a job is worth doing (believe me, my family hate to hear me cursing when I'm working on the car). I do worry about the hassles of pulling off the mufflers and I have read that some say to take off the rear bumper and others do not. Although, I have not routinely used it in winter, the car was first registered in NJ, I then bought it and registered it in PA. I moved here to NC 18 months ago. To my knowledge it hasn't been used in winter much, but I have no knowledge of how the first owner used it in winter. I'm tempted to at least have a go in removing the mufflers, just to see if I can teach myself how to do it, but I will also check out the prices at the repair shops.

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Yeah, I'm not one to let issues sit, so I will get this fixed one way or another in the next month or so. Even if I take it in to the repair shop it shouldn't cost more than replacing spark plugs. The main thing was knowing what the problem was prior to taking the car in, so that I could be sure of what it was, how much it should cost and try to avoid getting ripped off.

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Removing the mufflers really sounds more difficult than it is. The clamp for the cat converter tube is just two bolts. Then the muffler has either two long bolts <or> three short nuts to remove. I recommend going after the three short nuts, that way you can see and work through the muffler bracket easier. Thats it! It just falls right out. You don't have to remove the bumper or muffler shield, although it does make it even easier. As for the boat plug method, someone over on 6speed IIRC came up with using a threaded pipe nipple (can't remember the size), but he commented it worked even better than the transom plug. Dielectric grease at a few dollars from autozone, etc. works well.

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Goodness gracious. You said it was bad, but golly gee! Spray some WD40 on it, or something??? LOL!

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Yeah, I've never seen such a dirty engine.

I'm a sucker for busted knuckles and I hate removing rusted exhaust bolts, so I left the mufflers and bumper in place. You can get them without removing either item. Yes, it's more annoying...but so is spending a few hours fixing a sheared bolt... The manual calls for using tire mounting grease. If you're friendly with your tire shop they'll just give you some in a cup (at least mine did). The point of this grease is that it's slippery initially and then becomes tacky when it dries. Easy to slide in, but difficult to pull back out. Good luck, S.

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Oops, didn't know that part. So there are really only 2 contact points for the mufflers. The 2 bolt flange connector on the pipe and the 3 nuts connecting the muffler to the supporting bracket. I think you really only have to worry about the flange. Luckily enough, you can go take a picture of that easily and see how much rust there is on there. Posting that might make it easy to determine if this job is doable.

Removing the mufflers are fairly easy. First time it took me an hour and a half. I have had them on and off at least 5 times since I have had the car. I have it down to 1/2 hour. Like Logan has said it 2 bolts under the bumper and 3 nuts on the side of the motor for each can. Taking the wheels off make it very easy and the bumper stays on. You can do it!

Well guys, with the recent talk of oil leaks, the timing was right for me to close the loop on this thread. My travel schedule has been crazy recently, so I paid one of my local indie shops to fix the problem for me. He confirmed that I had a slight leak on one of the spark plug tubes and a slight leak on the PCV valve breather. Nothing major - all fixed for $280 no biggie. My baby is now dry as a bone and nice and clean underneath. I know it was minor and I could have just tolerated the single spot of oil in the pan each time I drove the car, but it was nice not to see the single spot of oil appear in the pan when I got home this evening.

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Kaz did you use the snap tight or screw tight boat transom plug? I am going to order one from Amazon as I am coming up to 60K this summer and will change my plugs.

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Screw type. Worked great no problem. You do not have to remove the spark plugs unless you are planning to change them...

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Ok Kaz thanks mate. I have ordered the screwed one . Any advice on what brand of spark plugs. I am tempted to use the ones that Porsche use as this will probably be the last plug change that I do on this car. Would you use the same covers if they are not damaged, or order new ones as well. If new, where from? Thanks.

I like to stick with Porsche OEM parts so I would probable use the Porsche recommended spark plugs. I am not sure what you are referring to "covers"? If you are referring to the spark plug tubes replace all of them including new O-rings. If you are referring to the coils, check them over well for cracks, breakage, etc. I would not replace them unless you notice a problem.