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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHanyone use an aftermarket RMS seal?
Leading reported evidence
Replace rms seal
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had my RMS seal replaced under CPO at the dealer 2 years ago and no leaks since.
Leading evidence: 'Replace rms seal' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace ims bearing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
changed my text to green to show my attempt at humor
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Suggestion
Why wouldn't you replace the IMS bearing with the LN Engineering update while you have it all apart?
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Use aftermarket rms?" what would you save, maybe $10
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Given that the OEM RMS is only about $25 or less the question should be "Why would anyone else use an aftermarket RMS?" What would you save, maybe $10 on a job that takes 8+ hours of labor?
Use aftermarket rms?" what would you save, maybe $10
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Given that the OEM RMS is only about $25 or less the question should be "Why would anyone else use an aftermarket RMS?" What would you save, maybe $10 on a job that takes 8+ hours of labor?
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
I've got a major leak all of a sudden (8" spot after 80 miles) and need to get it fixed up.
UPDATED ON POST #11 WITH PICS!
Just wondering, as my experience on other motors is a factory replacement seal will usually still leak and a NAPA seal won't. I think the aftermarkets are slightly oversized to account for wear on the crank.
I've got a major leak all of a sudden (8" spot after 80 miles) and need to get it fixed up. (could be IMS or something else, but won't know until I pull the trans)
Does anyone have the service manual instructions for Tip removal they could post, or send me?
pics, everybody likes pics
ugh, not what I wanted to see, coming right out of the bellhousing
The updated (newer) PTFE Porsche RMS seal does not leak. If it does leak, then your crank case has a defect.
You are correct in assuming that the leak could be from the IMS seal.
Search google for "996 work shop manual".
The Porsche seal has been revised many times. I wouldn't use the NAPA seal.
As perviously mentioned, the new seal is PTFE and works really well. I had my RMS seal replaced under CPO at the dealer 2 years ago and no leaks since. And yes, I am still sporting the original IMS.
Good luck.
I was saved by a snow storm on mine. I had my car all apart changing the seal. I ordered one from the local parts house. The part got delayed due to a snow storm.
I drove 1.5 hours away to get a seal from the dealer. A week later when the seal came in from the local parts house, ( I think a Dana product) it was exactly like the old style that leaked.
The newest seal is a lot different where the seal contacts the crank.The contact area on the seal is almost cloth-like.
Only use the OEM seal- Period.
Its one of the only damn things the factory actually revised correctly.
That said, your RMS leak could be an IMS impending issue; a release of oil is sometimes the only symptom one receives prior to the big event.
Given that the OEM RMS is only about $25 or less the question should be "Why would anyone else use an aftermarket RMS?" What would you save, maybe $10 on a job that takes 8+ hours of labor? Penny wise and pound foolish to do so.
Hope it's not the IMS, the motor runs great and never a drip anywhere before this.
Took the car on a nice coast Hwy 1 trip on the fall equinox and it came home and puked out the big oil blob. Cleaned up the motor and drove it some more and still another 8" oil puddle.
It's a 2007 factory replacement motor in a 2001 car. I've read that the IMS bearing may be non replaceable. I think if it is replaceable I will do it.
It's not about saving a buck on a seal, sometimes the aftermarket P-car parts are better and that was my question. Don't want to do it twice or more as some have. Thanks for all that responded.
OK, finally had a chance to pull the trans, a tip. Though I would update since there is not allot of info on the tip drops
You have to pull the starter to get to the torque convertor bolts, much less painful than expected. Couple of bolts and it slips right out.
Then the 6 torque convertor bolts come right out
Here's good news for you PPI guys, if you pull only the cross member you can see the IMS (easier to see than photograph), whether it is leaking and the bolt size without going any further. All without dropping the trans.
Here is the big ugly Tiptronic coming out, you have to disconnect and plug 2 coolant hoses besides the tip electronics.
Here are the leaking seals. RMS is a leaker and the IMS does not look to good either. Looks like a single row bearing. Interesting that this a 2005 factory replacement motor with 50K with what looks like a replaceable IMS bearing. With no clutch dust, it stays pretty clean in there. Well, compared to most pics posted here.
Replace or not?
Man, these tips are really big, heavy boxes
more work ahead, anyone in the bay area have a IMS puller I can borrow?
