Looking for 996 Turbo - Please Help

Long time listener, first time caller. I've been lurking on the forums for some time, and finally decided to ask for some help. I'm in the market for a 996 turbo, and haven't been having much luck. I'm looking for something like this: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/a...911-turbo.html and that may even be the one, though I'm not sold on the grey interior, nor the mileage. I don't want a heavily modified car, although upgrades are welcome. Color isn't a huge factor, but no ext grey. I'd like to stay under $45K, as this will be a toy, and a cash purchase. I'm also still kicking around the idea of a cab, but it would need to be the perfect deal. Any help is MUCH appreciated, or a line on any cars that aren't listed yet. Location is not a factor, but I'm in Dallas. Contact info: [email removed]

There's a nice low mileage black coupe manual in Naples, FL on craigslist for around $45k... tasteful mods. I'd be on it if I didn't have one already.

Heres one - maybe too many mods?? http://www.globalautosports.com/car/...pe-364517.html

Take a look at the last few pages of the Craigslist cars thread. I put some turbos in there that are not gray. Might be something there you like.

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Thanks, and there was! Just too late, sold.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-finds-64.html This might be a good place to look also.

http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/cto/5776223522.html

Here's a white/auto/66k miles for 41k http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5769392957.html

Thanks guys! I've had a couple good options messaged to me as well. Quick survey, how much does mileage mean to you? I've got a couple options on cars that have had some major updates, but pushing 100k miles. Obviously well taken care of, and serious money spent, but higher mileage and still around mid $40's.

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The question should be how much does mileage mean to you? You are buying the car. Higher mileage means lower cost of entry. But higher mileage brings with it the risk of wear items needing attention. Wear items like water pump, fuel pump, CV boots (the Turbo is AWD so there are boots at the front axle too), radiator fans, radiators, idler roller/tensioner roller bearings, spoiler hydraulics, clutch, coils, MAF, O2 sensors, starter, alternator, and so on. While it is very unlikely all or even a number of the above will need attention right off the bat you can be pretty certain at least one or two will. (My 996 Turbo at 147K miles has needed new front brakes, water pump, RMS, spoiler hydraulics, two sets of idler/tensioner roller bearings, radiator fans, radiators, front axle flange seals, and O2 sensors. Not all of these needed attention at the same time but a number of them from around the 120K mile mark to around the 140K mile mark.) My best advice is to give a candidate car a thorough road test to ensure the car, the engine, runs ok without any signs of any issues, signs like poor running, noises, smoking, CEL, and so on. I recommend a 15 mile test ride followed by a 15 mile test drive. The route wants to give the driver an opportunity to demo the car as you intend to use it. The idea to is the engine runs long enough to allow the DME to complete all readiness monitor testing. The CEL should remain dark. It also gets the engine and drive train fully up to temperature and it is at temperature if there are any leaks they will make themselves known, maybe not on the driveway but afterwards on the lift during a PPI. After a thorough road test give the car systems a thorough used car check out. Ensure everything works from headlghts to spoiler, from sun roof to seat power adjustment. If after all of the above then get a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air and allows for a close inspection for any signs of trouble, which usually show themselves as leaks. Every seal, gasket, o-ring, hose, hose coupling, hydraulic line and line fitting, CV boot, is checked for any signs of leakage. A leak or two is not necessarily a deal breaker but you should try for an adjustment of the selling price for what you need to spend to bring the car up to spec. The important thing is the basic platform is in good shape.

Thanks for the thorough response!

I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 90K+ miles car if it has been maintained properly. But, if it is anywhere near 100k miles, then any sale price starting with a 4 is out of the question, no matter how nice the car is and how much maintenance has been done. Most 996tt's that have 90k+ miles are under $35,000. There have been many 100k mile cars that are sold in the $20k's. The 996tt snobs are the ones that drive the 996tt prices up. No offense intended with the word "snob", just that they are very, very picky. They want a 100% stock, unmolested, low miles, one or maybe two owner, no stories, full service records car. Everything else is a "driver" unworthy of consideration, no matter the price. If the car has EVER had ANY paintwork, they won't consider it. Any type of accident, no matter how minor? Fuhgeddabowdit. Over 50k miles is considered "high mileage". Heck, frankly over 40K is high miles to most of them. 30-something-k miles is barely acceptable. 20k miles is about right, but they're really looking for something in the teens. Once you get away from that crowd and that mindset, the 996tt is just another used car. If you've got a seller thinking his 95k miles car is worth $45k because he's the best, most ****, most loyal-PCA-member-pure and has a stable full of other P-cars, well, just move on and let the market work him over. The snobs are the only ones paying the high end prices and they won't even give a high miles car a sniff. Personally, I think some of these guys price their cars unrealistically high because they don't really want to sell. Maybe the wife is pressuring him to sell, so he lists it for sale but sets a crazy high price. When I was in the market a little over a year ago, I'd see the same overpriced cars sit on the market month after month. The well priced cars will not sit on the market. Getting a good deal on a 996tt requires studying the market for a bit before you start making offers. Although they built a lot of 996tt's, there aren't that many on the market at any given time. Give yourself a month to develop a framework of what a car should sell for. There are a lot of variables, but mileage is by far the biggest factor, followed by condition. Once you have a good idea of what a hypothetical car should sell for based on those factors, you can evaluate for yourself what constitutes a good deal. My car came on the market about 7:00 am on the Tuesday morning after Labor Day last year. I emailed the guy as soon as I saw it when I arrived at the office that morning. I was on the phone with him by about 10 am. I did my due diligence immediately afterward, settled on a price with the seller (private individual) and had put down a $1,000 non-refundable deposit by about 2 pm that same day. That held the car until I could fly out and look at it 4 days later. The seller told me after the sale was done that he had multiple offers on the car after he agreed to our deal. The point is that you need to watch the market, know a good deal when you see one and be prepared to make a deal when the right car comes along. But, patience will pay off - don't jump on the wrong car. Wait for the one you really want. I searched for 6 months for my 996tt. I got close to buying a couple of cars, but I'm really glad that I didn't get them as the one I got was exactly what I was searching for (actually it was better).

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/5780044682.html 2002 996TT, Seal Gray/Black, 47k miles, asking price $45,000. Seems decent. Also one in Sacramento (Seal Gray/Black, 70k miles, $42k): http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5782989279.html

FWIW sites like cargurus.com have some 40 listed nationwide in that price range.

kcattorney, not trying to be a dick, I really appreciate your response, but in another thread you praise DK for buying a 2001 996 with 91K. I realize it was only listed at $41K and he may have paid less, and it has some good mods, but why the praise? The one I mention also has similar mods and new clutch, spoiler rams fixed, lines pinned, new water pump et all, slave, all fluids just changed, new tires, among other things. All feedback welcome!

Hi Jake - I suspect D.K paid in the $30k's for his car as the asking price was $40,997. I would guess he paid $37k or $38k, although he never said. Also, he bought from a dealer, which will typically result in a little higher price than buying from an individual. To be honest, I didn't put a lot of thought/analysis into that "Nice buy, D.K" post - it was really just more of a quick "Welcome".

FYI, you should go sit in a cab before you buy. The top makes a lot of creaking noises and does a very poor job with sound insulation. That being said, top down with the engine roaring right behind you...good gawd...worth it for me, but maybe not for others. I also live by the beach, which also makes the cab a compelling choice. When I'm driving inland, it's honestly too hot most of the year to keep the top down.

Thanks for the feedback. I've decided to go with a coupe. I like the lines a little better, and to your point, I don't think I'd have the top down much.

txnnd - I never pay much attention to KCAttorney's posts anyway. :-)

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+1 I found my car through cargurus. they have tons of inventory on just about everything.