Bilstein B8s and H&R springs...sway bars?

I have Bilstein B8s and H&R lowering springs on my 2003 996 c2 Cab. Pretty happy, but considering adding sway bars. Car seems to move around a little more than I'd like when pushing at DEs. Should I stick with H&R sways to match springs, or is this even an consideration? Or something else? What are you guys using and like best? Thanks, Joe

I think this is a topic that can be answered two ways: 1.) This car handles amazing out of the box. It is more capable than most people's driving skills. Save your money for other necessary maintenance, tires, and nice brake pads. If you don't have an oil pan baffle, that should be on the very top of your list! 2.) yO dawg, I want mah shyt to handle like it's on rails. Tarett Engineering is definitely a good choice for aftermarket anti-sway bars.

The 2 people I respect the most for P car suspension set-up say to keep the stock sway bars and just worry about geometry (adjustable links). This has worked for me so far, I know there are several opinions, but I like your choice of shocks and springs. Unless you are in full track mode, sways would be my last option. What I would consider (unless you already have) is the methodical elimination of the rubber suspension bushings. LCAs, dog bones and tuning fork arms will make a huge difference when the bushings are eliminated or improved.

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Also, sorry forgot to ask. What camber settings are you running? This will make a huge difference.

Couple thoughts,, As the bushings get more aggressive ,,, you may not need as much camber, The symptom your describing I would start with tire pressure, track vs street they can be quite different... One thing I've done in the past on cars running DOT race tires is switch one end of a control arm to a hard setup and use new stock on the other.. Seems to work for cars that are not quite up to a 12pt cage and tubular sub-frame reconstruction prep level. Even a 911, its possible to get a tire that's too aggressive , there is a limit where the chassis has to get stiffer to match the whole suspension/tire setup. A slightly less aggressive tire can allow the car to rotate in the turn smoother with less bouncing and tram-lining on every wave and bump in the track. And if you do nothing else,, don't track a car with weak bushings, it actually over-stresses the chassis pickup points. The "loose" bushing lets the pivot slam in to its surround instead of absorbing the stress.

I have been slowly changing over rubber bits in suspension with poly and/or pillow blocks. Front top mounts (Tarett), EPS Poly bush front tuning fork, rear adjustable upper control arms, Tarett tow links and locks, EPS poly bush tuning forks. All removed bits were tight and no sign of rubber deterioration. Geometry is mild, as my car is a 95% street car, that I put fair mileage on. Yes, I do correct tire pressures for track, usually 34-36/42-44 hot, depending on track conditions. I'm glad to hear that sway bars may not be required, there's lots of other things I can spend the money on.

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OK, that sounds good. Not sure what tires you are running, but maybe a little lower pressure. Try 35~38 hot, just to confirm the difference. Also, try about -1.75 Camber front...For me it transformed the feeling of the front during turn in. I am currently running -2.25 camber front.

I use H&R adj rear bar w B8 n Sport Springs. I can notice a difference when going to it, and then in adjusting it. I have it in middle hole now. Works best for me. I tested it in local "round abouts" for oversteer setup. PSM kicks in but doesn't shut down slide out into corner.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm running Michelin PSS. I should also clarify, the "moving around" is happening in one particular place at my home track. Moderate speed accelerating (60-100/105 mph) through a section with flat out right compression, followed by another flat out left kink (we refer to this section as a straight). Under braking it is pretty good. Front camber is around 0.5, rear 1.7. Ride height is 130 mm front and rear, which according to Porsche tables, put the front almost at ROW Sport (138mm) in the front, but lower in the rear (153mm from table for ROW Sport) with the B8s and springs.

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Tires sound good, track sounds fun. Which track? My opinion is don�t change any hard parts yet. Try more camber and lower tire pressure. Report back! I would go to -1.75 camber and sacrifice a little tire wear. Happy at track = happy life.

Thanks Ratchet, I'll give that a try. I can apparently get 1.5 degree with a swap of position on the Tarett top mounts. It's a small local track, Atlantic Motorsport Park. It's a tight, technical track, with significant elevation variances, hence the significant compression into the right.

I would agree on getting the camber in the front mkre agressive. It sucks for tire life but i run 2.5* all the way around on the street but it does twitch a little over a hundred so that might be too far for the track?