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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHClutch booster spring help please!
Leading reported evidence
Replace broken booster spring (under warranty)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While I have not replaced that booster spring personally, I did remove and reinstall that pin to correct a mistake the dealer made when they replaced the broken booster spring (under warranty).
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Suggestion · Original poster
I think i'm going to disconnect the master cylinder from the pedal that way I wont have to worry about pushing in the clutch when trying to get the canister in place.
Leading evidence: 'Replace broken booster spring (under warranty)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect master cylinder' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I think i'm going to disconnect the master cylinder from the pedal that way I wont have to worry about pushing in the clutch when trying to get the canister in place.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Was able to get the cylinder into the bracket but I did this by removing one of the black clips and disconnecting the pedal from the master cylinder.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Does the geometry change with the holding pin in place?
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Suggestion
Remember only unicorn poop should be used on a 996..
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Disconnect master cylinder
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion · Original poster
I think i'm going to disconnect the master cylinder from the pedal that way I wont have to worry about pushing in the clutch when trying to get the canister in place.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While I have not replaced that booster spring personally, I did remove and reinstall that pin to correct a mistake the dealer made when they replaced the broken booster spring (under warranty).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T130754Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi all,
My clutch booster spring is making a nasty click noise once and awhile. Decided to buy a new one, tried to put it in today but couldn't get the old one out!
So far I have done the following steps:
- remove air vent duct
- removed cruise control switch
- put a pin into the end of the canister
- pushed in the clutch
- removed the C clip
Tried to remove the bolt but it looks like it's not going to get out because of the Gold bracket that's blocking it?
Any ideas?? Car is a 2004 996 C2 (right hand drive).
I dont have the pin inserted or the clutch switch removed in the image below. Hence why the spring is so stretched but it's the same with the pin inserted.
Thanks!
One theory that I'm yet to test as it's late here in Australia, was the clutch pushed in too far? Causing the bolt to be too far and blocked by the Gold bracket? If the clutch was only pushed in half way then the bolt would clear the bracket further up?
Huge pain!
Anyway, just got in and pushed the clutch by hand to test this theory but the pin never cleared?
I didn't put the holding pin in though but i'm guessing it wouldnt make much difference if the holding pin is in or not to whether the pin can clear?
Try putting the holding pin in the hole in the back of the shaft. Then lightly press the clutch until the pressure is relieved from the pivot pin. The front of the Assy should drop out of the fork on the clutch lever.
Hey guys,
Thanks for the responses, when I put in the holding pin I press in the clutch and there is a loud click noise (i'm assuming this is the loading of the spring and then the spring in the tension position ready for removal).
However there is still no clearance for that bolt to be removed? Does the geometry change with the holding pin in place? So maybe just past tension of the spring is where the pedal should be not all the way to the floor?
In the image above the pedal is all the way to the floor as far down as it can go.
I've been able to put the holding pin in and relieve the pressure from the pivot pin (with the C clip), to the point where I can move the pin side to side. I just cant see how the pin will clear that gold bracket.
Does the canister come put before the pivot pin with the C clip can be removed?
Okay got it out!
Wiggled the bar out and then got hold of it with a set of pliers and pulled it out!
Now the next challenge is getting the new spring into the car...
So the second part of this headache is beginning...
What's the best way to get it back in?
I've been trying to manuver it back in whilst the clutch pedal is depressed.
I haven't been able to get it in?
Any ideas? I'm trying to get it to clear the gold brackets so I can attach it to the pedal then release the clutch so the canister finds its way home into the brackets
I have not done this myself but the wsm calls for removing the gold bracket together with the spring canister if you need to remove the latter. There are 3 bolts holding the bracket. Good luck.
Thanks Ahsai, what section is that from?
Access to the bracket is extremely limited so I don't know if I can get to it. I removed it by twisting it and it fell out. Guessing that it just needs the right angle to get back in.
Thanks Joe! I'm missing that second page in the manual I have.
Why is it so easy for everyone to reinstall this helper spring? I'm not overly confident in taking apart the clutch pedal assembly nor do I think I can actually reach those bolts either
Really trying to not let this defeat me and having to give it to the dealership...
Most of what I have seen and read is that people are finding a way to remove the clutch helper spring and leaving it out. I think once they find a way to remove it they just leave it off and decide that the clutch pedal is smoother without it.
I know it sounds like a PITA to remove the clutch pedal with the bracket, but I find that the manual is the correct way to do things. Since you have the spring out, aren't the gold bracket bolts/nuts easily accessible?
They are still in veryyy difficult positions way uin the footwell, there is next to no access.
Although one of the hardest parts is pressing in the clutch whilst moving the spring around. Could I disconnect the clutch pedal by removing the c clip and bolt so it can move freely?
Hold on guys. I take back what I said about removing the gold bracket. I didn't realize it's attached to the pedal. I'm sure the clutch pedal does NOT need to be removed for this procedure.
While I have not replaced that booster spring personally, I did remove and reinstall that pin to correct a mistake the dealer made when they replaced the broken booster spring (under warranty). The tech inserted the pin the wrong way and I had to remove the pin and flip it around. Here's what I wrote in my "DIY journal": "
When inserting the pin, no need to align spring and pedal and insert horizontally (physically impossible). Just put the pin onto the spring [canister] first, then the pin will snap onto the pedal easily
. Must lock the spring with a 3mm fat wire at the back of the spring before removing the pin"
Hope this helps.
Thanks guys, its proving very difficult
thanks for the tips Asahi unfortunately I havent even gotten to the point where I can start thinking about the bolt
I think i'm going to disconnect the master cylinder from the pedal that way I wont have to worry about pushing in the clutch when trying to get the canister in place.
Looks like the only way to get it in is twist and somehow clip it into place... Then attach it to the pedal.
Visualising it by looking at clutch pedal assemblies has helped so ill just keep trying I guess!
Okay! So 2 steps forward one step back!
Was able to get the cylinder into the bracket but I did this by removing one of the black clips and disconnecting the pedal from the master cylinder. This gave me a bit more room to move.
So my plan is to push in the clutch (I've re connected the pedal) slide the canister that is hanging in the gold bracket forward and whilst it's moved forward put the black tab back in place...
Thats the theory anyway!
FWIW the new canister is much larger in diameter than my original... Could explain all the trouble I've been having
Wish me luck!
Guys, my theory didnt work...
So now i'm stuck, I think its a trip to the dealership tomorrow morning.
I can get it in the bracket without one of the plastic clips but that doesn't work. Even tried removing one of the bolts for some flex, couldn't get it off access was too tight
So went to the dealership saturday morning, needed to go pick up a few parts anyway.
They couldn't put the spring in, they said it was a clutch pedal assembly out job... ugh
Thanks for that, I've read that thread a few times over. Helped with getting it out but little information around getting it back in
especially because on the revised spring canister is bigger than the original.
This is a message from the future (2019). Did you ever resolve the clutch boost spring? It's been three years since the last post, and no update. I'm about to do the same thing, so my ears are open!
^^ That's because that's what it says in their book (which is written to maximize profits for the stealership)
Did they give you an estimate? Just remember, that # represents the job before they ream you for as many new parts as possible... Many people have done this job without all the problems you're having... You got the thing out - it has to go back in... I feel your pain (even more so after you pay the piper)...
808Bill...can only think the broken spring could catch and bind on clutch release. I noticed that on mine, as it would click/hesitate/grab on release, and decided it was time for some under-dash gymnastics.