CEL came back...Finally got around to getting a Durametric

So, I posted a few weeks back that I had gotten a CEL after I had done some work to my cooling system (fixed a leaking hose above the oil pump housing). After refilling with coolant and driving 50 miles or so, the light went away initially, but has come back now after 300 miles or so. I read the stored code with a generic reader and got a 1341. After checking around a bit I decided to break down and get a Durametric. I got to hook it up after work today and this is what I got. Per the fault code "camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value" - What exactly is the meaning of this? Worn chain pads? Bad adjuster? Both? Any ideas (preferably educated ) would be appreciated

You may want to read and participate here? JFP and AHsai are helping. https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...w-limit-value/ I am in the middle of assembling a DIY write up but it is a complex & potentially expensive subject.Be careful with the link because it is for a Boxster but the basics are the same. Member DHarn(Doug) was the pioneer in solving this issue. Be aware that many of the diagnostics/repairs involve engine removal as a prerequisite .No, not what I wanted to read either ! Your Deviations are high but did you note down the Actual Values at idle & 3000 rpm(Variocam) for both Banks ?. That is worth investigating urgently . Not good news -sorry.

Yeah, I'm familiar with that thread on Renntech. I think I'll copy my first post and put it up there as well.

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Replied to you and Deporto over on Renntech

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif

Went through this with my Boxster. My first clue something was wrong was the engine idle became erratic. Down to around 500RPMs then up to around 750RPMs. This after just covering 30 miles at highway speeds with nary a sign of anything amiss. Even with the engine running quite weird there was no CEL. Connected my OBD2 code reader and found no active errors but one pending error: P1341. Also with the code reader I viewed the engine telemetry and the only thing that really jumped out at me was the wildly flucuating fuel trims on Bank #1. Turned off the engine for a brief time then restarted engine. Symptoms gone. Decided to try to drive the car home. Made it the 30 miles to home with no drama other than I don't think I took a deep breath the whole time. At the dealer talked things over with the tech. Told him about the wildly swinging fuel trim and he said that is the DME attempting to adjust the fueling on bad bank to get the O2 sensor reading it expects. But because there is a mechanical problem with the VarioCam system the DME won't get the reading it wants but in adjusting the fueling it will go too far and misfires will happen. Anyhow, the tech confirmed the problem was with the VarioCam solenoid and replaced it. While the camshaft cover was off I talked to the tech about the actuator rail condition. They didn't look bad to me and the tech confirmed they looked to be in good shape. So much so he advised me that the other side didn't need replacing. Picked up the car and not too long after the engine started acting up again and with the same error code. This time tech replaced the actuator too. Believe it or not I did not have to pay for the duplication of labor and supplies and such. The techs told me that at least with the Boxster engine there is no way to distinguish between a bad solenoid and actuator the SOP is to replace both. The general manager at the dealer knows me well enough that had I been told this at the outset I would have agreed to have both items replaced and because I wasn't asked this the dealer didn't charge me for the duplicate labor, etc. I did have to pay for the new actuator though. After the new actduator installed the engine has been perfect. That was around 60K miles ago. (Camshaft cover has remained leak free, too.) Now with the 996 I beieve the solenoid is fairly easy to get at/replace. So in this case the tech or you could replace just the solenoid, clear the codes, and road test the car. If the error comes back the actuator is bad and must be replaced. But the above is based on the tech or you walking through the various tests/checks to ensure the problem is not an electrical problem or a problem with the DME. These are rare but should be eliminated just to be thorough.

Macster, Thank you for taking the time to participate and offer your experience. I had read your original Post and have a few suggestions based on what appears in this link: https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...w-limit-value/ 1. Diagnostic Test for Variocam Actuator/Solenoid. With the advice of Ahsai, JFP and Jake (we miss you here Jake !) there are several tests for the Solenoid and the Actuator . They may be a little unconventional but they work. The obvious Test is to use the Durametric to prompt the Cam advance once the engine is warm. It is easy to 'see' the cam change over in Actual Values. In my case Bank 2 was perfect and Bank 1 'dead' per Durametric. 2. There are several test-harnesses to make to help distinguish between a defective Actuator (also the 4-6 Actuator misplaced on the 1-3 Cam and v.v -from PorscheTech3) and a defective solenoid. I'll be explaining all this in a DIY Guide when I finally fix this. The writeup will be a collection of the scattered wisdom of others because I have done little original work on this problem other than the harnesses. The pioneer was Dharn55 of Intermix and Lifter fame ! 3. It is possible to damage the DME or engine wiring by doing clumsy electrical tests -so be careful.The safest & easiest test is the simple 13 ohm test for the solenoid. 4. A "Hard Reset" has been suggested if all else fails but I have failed to find a good link to how to do a hard reset on the Bosch Motronic 7.2 DME. Do you ground the disconnected Positive Terminal of the battery cable or not ? Just disconnect for 10 minutes ? https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...set-ecu-387425 Part of the reason for all the hand wringing is the Actuators(with solenoid) are over $1000 each ! Worse, removing the Bank 1 cam cover with the engine in place on a 2001 Boxster S is very difficult. Lowering and twisting of the engine required.Complete engine removal preferred. It is very difficult to bench test a suspect Actuator and get conclusive evidence either way. The Actuator has been found to be vulnerable to oilway blockage and (in Audis) wear of the piston. On Bank 1 of the Boxster ,the CAMshaft Position sensor is buried behind the AOS .That is also a suspect .It is only $100 so it becomes a 'since you are desperate,clueless and in there- replace it' item. Then there is the whole Deviation and Camshaft timing subject to cover- which is why I am writing the Guide with lots of links and it is already way over 3 pages. Macster, your experience shows even the Porsche dealer has problems with this P1341 code so not surprising that we amateurs do ! Thank you for helping.I very much appreciate your involvement - and so will others with P1341 in future !

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It figures that my first run in with fault codes turns out to be a 1341 (Porsche code p 74). I'm hoping that it's a little more aside to deal with on the 996 than the Boxter due to engine location...big thanks for the write up SG and Macster

The inconclusive diagnostic methods is a big problem because : 1. it won't pass the Smog Test with P1341 2. the problem(s) could cause catastrophic engine damage 3. the cost for all parts involved is potentially way over $1000 4. If you miss something you get to do over and probably drop the engine- lots of time and money gone ! 5, resealing the cam covers with the engine in the car will be less than perfect -& it was perfect! 6. there is no complete list of all the(obscure/stupid) causes of P1341.I am writing it based on my expert qualifications (=mistakes)! 7.If you find worn pads and assume that is the entirety of the Deviation & the P1341 code you may get a sad shock after you reassemble everything. As yet, I have not got a grasp of all the issues to check but hopefully this work will provide it. For example- if you fit a 4-6 Bank 2 Actuator to 1-3 Bank 1(it fits and looks perfect !) but you will get P1341 per PorscheTech3.That would be very difficult to diagnose without this prompt to inspect ! Hints on Removing the cam cover (esp the Boxster) 1. print the cam cover torque sequence drawing from Renntech.You will need it to slacken in the correct sequence . https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...alant-renewal/ 2. Don't forget to disconnect all the wiring from the sensors in cam cover (1 hidden near bolt #21) 3.Consider replacing #6 with an Allen head 4. Drain at least 3 qts of oil before you remove the cover.If you forget to do this ...... 5.Before you start, assemble every variation of 10mm socket/wrench/tool you have. You will discover a new need for more variations of stubby/flex/obstruction/ specialty wrenches and sockets ! One reason my cam cover bolts did not leak was I put a little thread sealant under the head.Not thread locker I had also used a little green Loctite (wicking locker) on the threads per Henkel's Instructions. Everything cam apart easily.Not Porsche-approved maybe but it worked for me. Don't forget to replace the cam position sensor if it is Bank 1 and you have the AOS out for any reason - because of access and paranoia.

Hmmmm... Nice list ! So many questions... I'm going to try to not make any rash/rush decisions regardless of how much I want to drive my car. I did so much work this winter to get it "ready" for the season, now this... Oh well...seeing as I don't want all my work to go for naught, I'm going to try to figure this out and fix it prior to doing much driving - the only drive I have to make is about 10 miles back to my shop so I put it back up on the jack stands and start taking it apart. Big questions... 1) bank 1 = Drivers side? 2) Remove replace cover with engine in? Remove muffler? Lower engine? etc...? 3) Test/replace cam position sensor first? 4) Test/replace cam actuator next? It seems crazy that we have these diagnostic tools (Durametric) but they don't even get us close with a problem like this...

Bank 1 is driver side. You are going to have some fun trying to pull the valve cover with the engine in the car. BUT you can test the actuator before taking anything apart. Could be having a problem with the vario cam solenoid driver in the DME. Test everything that you can before taking the valve cover off. Start with hotwiring the solenoid and work you way back to the DME.

Listen to Imo on this one. You need to run all the possible tests before you start removing anything. There are many tests that can be done to isolate where the problem is. The failure could be the solenoid/actuator or the wiring between it and the DME or the transistor inside the DME. First try to use Durametric to activate the variocam at idle on each bank. Engine noise should change. Next is to remove the variocam electrical connector and check if you get 12v on pin 1 with key ON engine OFF. Also ohm out the solenoid ~13ohm Next use a 9v battery to power the unplugged solenoid when engine is idling. You can report back what you find in the above tests and I can help you further.

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"Listen to Imo on this one. You need to run all the possible tests before you start removing anything. There are many tests that can be done to isolate where the problem is. The failure could be the solenoid/actuator or the wiring between it and the DME or the transistor inside the DME. First try to use Durametric to activate the variocam at idle on each bank. Engine noise should change. Next is to remove the variocam electrical connector and check if you get 12v on pin 1 with key ON engine OFF. Also ohm out the solenoid ~13ohm Next use a 9v battery to power the unplugged solenoid when engine is idling. You can report back what you find in the above tests and I can help you further." Thanks guys. I'm going to run the car up to the shop tonight. I don't know if i'll get a chance to work on it right away, but I'll let you know when/if I make any progress.

I got the car back up on jack stands and rear wheels off last night. I won't get to tear into it until tommorrow, but: 1) The solenoid is here? (yellow circle) ** special thanks to TNT63Falcon for the photo... Thanks in advance

The photo shows a 3.6L engine. Your avatar shows a MkI so I assume your engine is 3.4 On a 3.4, it's where the orange arrow points to and you can see its electrical connector too.

Ahsai, Thanks! - Yes, you are correct... I saw that the engine/cam cover was a little different, but the area was the same and TNT63Falcon's photo was so convenient I couldn't pass up the opportunity!

So, did you do a proper diagnosis before pulling the engine?

I'm attentively watching since I have a similar issue just pop up. The CEL with code P1325, so opposite side of what you have going on. I already replaced the variocam pads a while back since mine were worn. So I will be doing some similar diagnostic work to check the solenoid with the suggested methods from some of the previous discussions of code P1325 via the search function and this thread since testing of solenoids are similar. Good luck and hope you isolate the culprit of your issue. I will troubleshoot first then follow suit as far as dropping the motor if need be. All part of the fun of 996 ownership.

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^NO^ I haven't pulled the engine - And I'm hoping I won't have to! That was a photo that someone else had posted last night or this morning, so I just copied it and circled the cam actuator solenoid (to be sure I was going to pull out the proper thing). Last night I had just enough time to get up to the shop and get the car up on jack stands and get the drivers side wheel off. I won't be able to get to tonight either - the plan is to do the diagnostics as you guys have outlined tomorrow evening, and hopefully identify the culprit. Thanks for checking in. I'll post either tomorrow evening or Friday morning.

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Ah... Good luck! I'm hoping it's not the pads on mine, as I'm not looking forward to dropping the engine. There's a good thread on Renntech as well (if you didn't see it there's a link earlier in this thread) - you may want to check it out.

We've seen this issue before. The most consistent way that we have identified it happens is that: -the solenoid for the camshaft stops working properly and it eventually fails, then; -the amperage on the wires increases and back feeds to the DME shorting out the computer The most common codes for this failure are the ones already described as P1539, P1397 & P1341. Most time the DME needs to be fixed. This is easy to tell just by the "burnt" smell coming from the unit. Then the solenoid replacement job needs to be done as well.

Thanks to ECU Doctors for the easy "Smell Test". Perhaps they would comment if it is wise to open up the DME to inspect and get a stronger smell ? I understand there is one clearly visible ,very odd Transistor in the DME that is prone to overheating and if the VarioCam Solenoid(not the Actuator!) fails and back-feeds substantial amps to the DME. For those reluctant to spend the money($500??) on a "visit to the ecu Doctor" ,you can get some small upgrades to the DME programming done at the same time .For example ROW reflash to avoid the SAI problems! See the link below and scroll through it. Perhaps ECU Doctors would comment on this since we are giving them a free plug :-)? http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-bo...g-flash-2.html BTW - you can easily test the VarioCam Solenoid - It should show 13 ohms +/- if you disconnect the 2 pin connector nearby .Mentioned in prior Posts in this and other related Threads.

Hmmm very interesting! I got up to my shop last night and hooked her back up to the Durametric (issues with that to come later in the thread). So once started and idling (but not fully warmed up) the cam deviations are pretty much the same as before - -6.13 on bank 1 and -7.25 on bank 2. I was able to activate the Vario-cam on both banks and clearly hear it activate (slight clicking noise) and a difference in the idle - especially when de-activating/stopping it (the idle would drop and then come back up). Notably, bank two had a "stronger effect" when stopping the Vario-cam activation (more of a "stumble" in the idle before coming back to normal). So, this leads me to believe the solenoids are indeed "working". I didn't get to pull the solenoid due to being pressed for time - obviously the two bolts on the side of the engine are easy to reach, but the plug not so much - it's a little burried so I'll need a little more time to get to it - probably later on this weekend. Do you it is still necessary to check/test the solenoid itself ? Or, is it more of an On/Off propositon? Could it be working intermitently - anything is possible I guess? And even so, they don't seem to be affecting the cam deviations overall, even though they seem to be working. I also noticed, that as the engine warmed up, the deviations lessened a bit (see photo's) - Is this normal operation? ** A few other things I learned... 1 - My engine compartment fan actually works, as I'm able to activate it from Durametric 2 - I've got a fault with my headlights (Litronics) but I'm not sure exactly what it means Anyone have a clue what "Engine path left" and "engine path right" means? 3 - Durametric is clunky - You can't have multiple windows open simultaneously (at least I can't) and when you switch back and forth between operations (i.e. activations, and actual values) it often/always locks up. When you close the program, it won't open back up unless you pull the usb cable and then plug it back in.

Sounds like your variocam is working on both banks. I'll go with Porschetech3's suggestion then - replace cam pads and retime the engine.

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Hmmmm... Looks like I've got some serious work to do Oh well, I've gotten two nice years of driving out of it before doing any engine work so I guess I've been fairly fortunate. I was hoping to be driving it again soon - given my time allocation at this time of year, probably not now. It sure will be sweet when I get 'er back on the road!

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Shouldn't be too bad if you drop the engine. Can also change out other PM items at the same time. Forgot to say it's normal for the cam deviation values to change a bit after the engine is fully warmed up and also across drive cycles.

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Of course you can open your ECU for a visual inspection. That's the 1st thing that we recommend you do in our video on how to diagnose your own ECU. You Tube

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Yes, I thought that was normal. Also, at -6.xx I think they're not too far beyond spec. right? (IIRC - up to +/- 6 degrees crk ?). Other PM's... Well, I do have a New AOS lying around (I got it from another rennlister...I hope it's good). I suppose the water pump and thermostat are on the table... I also noticed last night that one of my spark plug tubes are leaking - I wasn't sure if it was the cam cover, but i clearly identified the sp tube as I was working last night

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Certainly no burning smell from mine, but this is great info to have for future reference!

dporto: After reading your thread, went out and measured my cam timing on my car yesterday. Did not measure it last year. Here are my results: It did not change from a cold engine to a hot engine yesterday, but it was cool out and I only drove it about 10 mile to warm it up. I too have replacement of the cam pads on my to-do list. Would drop the engine and either replace the IMS bearing or put the solution in....or have somebody do all of this for me. Sounds fun to do it myself. I don't think I will do it this year.

The Deviation Spec limit is often mentioned - 6 degrees @the crank(=3 @the cam) . What we don't know (?) is what Deviation-degrees means there is mortal danger of pad disintegration. The other unknown w/o dismantling is how much of the Deviation is pad wear vs wear/leakage in the Actuator. BTW re: "I didn't get to pull the solenoid due to being pressed for time - obviously the two bolts on the side of the engine are easy to reach, but the plug not so much - it's a little burried so I'll need a little more time to get to it" To remove the Variocam Solenoid, the Camshaft Cover must be removed. The 2 Allen-head screws you are seeing only retain the Solenoid seal. Be very careful removing the Solenoid from the Actuator (2 tiny torx screws)with the engine in the car. There is a little shuttle valve that pops out under spring pressure when you lift off the Solenoid. It is easy to loose the valve or the spring or the screws. Note later versions of this engine were modified to allow removal of the solenoid w/o removing the cam cover. Based on my tests(not an expert) I'd suggest that if the Solenoid passes the 13 ohm and 9v click test - look elsewhere for problems.

SG - I think I've determined that the solenoid is indeed working. At this point, it looks like at the very least I'll be dropping the engine and replacing the actuator pads (I have found the brown plastic debris - not a lot, but a few small pieces, in my oil filter when doing oil changes so I've always known there was some wear there)... The question then becomes, what else? Do the cam chains themselves stretch? I wouldn't mind changing them as they're relatively cheap. The actuators themselves are a different story, so if they're operating properly I'll leave them alone

I agree on just taking a chance on the Variocam Actuators. If the solenoids check out electrically ,they are O.K. to reuse. If the engine oil is dirty or you don't have a full flow filter upgrade, it would be easy(with the engine apart for pad+paddle replacement) to remove and flush the actuator with very thin oil .It would be a shame if some of that pad debris clogged the Actuator. W/o a full flow filter ,that pad debris could be anywhere ! Like the lifters -ugh.Sorry.

The cam to cam timing chains for sure. May be a good idea to check with LN Engineering or rndeuroparts to see if they have the master linked timing chains for your 3.4 engine too. Those types of chains allow you to change them out w/o splitting the case. Not sure how tricky to replace them though as you would need to cut the old chains. Also a good time to replace the 3 chain tensioners.

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How did you do this?

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Imo000 - By activating with the durametric - clearly audible and noticeable via idle speed. I haven't checked at the plug because it's quite a bit more difficult to get to and I was pressed for time. I suppose if it makes sense I could check it further once I drop the engine. SG - I do have the spin on adapter with the full flow filter (Napa Gold 1042). Once I have the engine out, I have a feeling it's going to be somewhat of a slippery slope, but I'll fix anything that clearly needs fixing, as I don't want to have to pull it out again next year - maybe two years Ahsai - ^^^ yeah that's what I'm thinking... Paul Waterloo - Are you getting fault codes/CEL's with those deviations? I thought -6 deg. was the limit...

"Are you getting fault codes/CEL's with those deviations? I thought -6 deg. was the limit..." Mine was 14.9 . A world record. Why/how? That is the limit of the maximum travel of the Variocam mechanism. But all my NEW pads and paddles were zero miles ! Which is why I asked about the Deviation angle that translates to pad wear being close to disintegration. 6 crk. degrees is the spec. but I have never seen a warning relating this to the risk of pad disintegration. I am laboring this point because the cause of my problem was harmless stupidity(mine) and the consequences just inconvenience and modest cost. Disintegrating timing chain pads could be a different story because of the pad debris ,from chunks to dust to aluminum shavings entering the maze of oilways.

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A little trick I use to convert my cartridge type oil filter to full flow (no by-pass) is to simply pop the by-pass assembly out of the bottom of the plastic can, and remove spring and valve and flip them to the other side, thus eliminating the by-pass, then snap it back in. I had some pictures on my phone of this little trick I think I have moved them to a thumb drive , If I can find them I'll post them. I also use the K&N PS-7011 oil filter made of cellulose/synthetic fibers they claim it flows more oil AND filters better, but I called to get the micron spec and the gph spec and could not get it. I called K&N and also Champion Laboritories (who make K&N , FRAM, STP, Purolater, and about 25 other brands) they would not/ could not give me the specs either. Given the cellulose/synthetic combo, it should be the best of both worlds and I have had no issues with it. Another oil system trick I use is to epoxy some magnets around the outside of the Plastic oil filter housing mid way up. I like magnetic filters, they catch the ferrous slivers and dust. Its easy to see if it has caught anything and easy to clean, no mess, as is the cartridge type filter.

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^neat trick^! Thanks for sharing... SG - do you lie awake at night thinking up these CEF scenarios or what? I realize these things are whithin the realm of possibilities, but geezzz - I'm really hoping I'm not down to the aluminum... 😉

I am not getting any check engine lights with my cam deviations. I thought the factory limit was 6 degrees and the check engine light doesn't come on until 12 degrees? Or maybe it was 9 degrees? I read these posts and I start thinking about what I would do....and I have LN Engineering and their shop about an hour from me. Do I want to do all of this work myself, or just suck it up and have somebody like them do it, get it right the first time, and install the IMS solution? That would reset the engine for a long time to come. I still owe $3K on my car....so it will be paid off in the upcoming months and then I could start a fund for all of this.

I've decided to stop driving my car, drop the engine and replace the cam chain pads. While I'm in there I'll check/clean the actuators (and hope they're working properly as they're pretty expensive to replace). I guess there's the possibility that the cam chains are also worn, so perhaps replace them as well. If the other chain tensioners/pads are accessible and worn, I'll do them as well. The IMS bearing was replaced with a LN unitaround 20,000 mi. ago so thats not an issue at this point.

Update: I'm just about ready to start taking stuff apart, as I've got the car on jack stands and I've got about 25.25 " from floor to bottom of engine (oil sump plate)... Is this enough? I think I've read 24" but I don't know where those measurements were taken to/from. A few more: 1) Better/Easier to remove Engine/Tranny as one unit? Or separate first? I'm thinking drop first then separate, but I'm open to suggestions... 2) Any recommendations on the chains themselves? I don't need anything super high performance, but if there is an updated/upgraded part within a reasonable cost range I would go with that. 3) ^Same^ for the chain-tensioner pads.

[QUOTE=dporto;14095892]^neat trick^! Thanks for sharing... Your welcome !! I don't mind sharing these little tricks I can't take with me, and can't sell, so mite as well share !!

25.25 should be enough IIRC. Def easier to remove trans and engine as 1 unit For chains - I went with the ones from IWIS that have a master link. This was done based off Jake's recommendation. I believe he developed or helped develop them. I used OE chain tensioner pads and the LNE IMS paddle and pad for the IMS chain

For a 996 drop as engine+transaxle ideally using a hydraulic cart(Harbor Freight?) For 986 different story perhaps. Chains - Search for what Jake has said. The usual brand is IWIS. Difficult to find a version with Master Links if that is what you mean. The Cam to cam chain is the same story -IWIS. Unlikely you will get the version with the 2 silver links 7 apart. Pads - you mean the pads on the Variocam Actuator I presume. I don't think there is any choice- the light brown ones are the only I have seen. Just get them the right way up !

Pelican Parts sells the IWIS chains with master link. That's where I got mine.

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It's easier to remove the engine/trans block as a unit. (unless just doing a trans/clutch). Your don't have much choice on the parts.. the long chain comes in a endless link that requires to split the case to install, and a master link type that can be installed without removing the heads. The pads are just replacement OEM.. no upgrades available that I know of.

Looks like several of us were answering the same questions at the same time...lol I could have saved mine instead of being redundant..No one had answered Dporto when I started my post but got interrupted before I finished then I posted last.. Lots of friendly helpful people here !!!

I could not find it on Pelican: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg1.htm If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here: http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx Free shipping+no tx for most. Their street address has a reassuring ring to it: 57 Raby Drive Cleveland, GA 30528 Coincidence ?

RnD...Jake's mantra - no surprise there. I looked on the LNE website and didn't see the cam chains. I'll check RND. And Thanks! for all the responses.

this a 5 chain? maybe that's why...I was looking at 02 Carreras on the pelican site and there's def chains with master links available.

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Pelican has it..but they only list it in the Boxster section, not the 911 section, I don't know why same part. 996-105-177-53-M1048 $53.75

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Is this for both chains at RND? or are they $52 ea.? Not that $52 is a lot, but it's twice the price of the one at Auto Atlanta...(same part #) Ah... That's the wrong part # I think (that's the chain to the IMS - I wasn't planning on changing that one???)... Proper one here Part # 996 105 170 54 | Timing Chain - Cam to Cam / Single Row http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx Even less expensive than Autoatlanta... http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-10

If you are replacing only the cam-to-cam chain I don't understand the logic. You have to remove both cams and then the cam-to-cam chain to replace the pads on the Actuator. So what then would be the point of a Master Link in the cam to cam chain ? AFIK the Master link is only in the IMS to Ex sprocket chain. Hence my link. Chain w/o Master link are easy/cheap to find.

I never said anything about a master link, so I don't know the logic either...I was never planning on replacing all the chains, i just figured if i was doing the cam chain pads, it might make sense to do the chains too.

Right ,it was AWD who was confusing us :-).

lol, I said the same thing as you guys. IWIS chains. Get the one with master link if you can. Not sure why you wouldn't change the chains now that it is open.

Ok, so my understanding is that the cam chains will be accessible by removing the cam covers. To get to the other chains, doesn't it entail removing the heads etc.? I'd much rather that this didn't become a full engine refresh, if I can help it. I'd like to get this done in a month of nights/weekends etc. - six weeks on the outside. While I'll certainly open to address issues as I run into them, I'm not approaching this as a huge project. Removing the heads and/or separating the case halves qualifies as "a huge project" in my book. Had this problem surfaced last fall, I might have taken it on over the winter... Opposing view points/recommendations welcome.

to change the IMS chain you will need to remove the heads and split the case. the chains running along camshafts can be replaced without taking the heads off.

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Don't know how you managed to go from a suspected VarioCam solenoid/actuator problem to tearing the engine apart to replace cam chains. The error code points to the VarioCam solenoid/actuator. Just working the solenoid using a Durametric only tells you at that time the solenoid is working. When my Boxster manifested a bad solenoid/actuator I "fixed" this by turning off the engine and then upon restart just a few moments later the symptoms were gone and remained gone for a 30 mile drive back home. I'm pretty sure had I "tested" the solenoid with a Durametric it would have worked just fine. If you believe the chains need to be replaced then you are faced with removing the engine from the car. The camshaft covers come off to get at the small chain that runs from the exhaust cam to the intake cam and upon/or against which the VarioCam actuator works to vary the intake cam timing. To replace the cam chains that run from the IMS to the exhaust cam -- one at the front of the engine and one at the rear -- I'm not sure what is required to be disassembled and removed. The same goes for the chain that runs from the crankshaft to the iMS. While I don't think cases have to be split it is a major repair. If you replace the chains you should consider replacing the chain guides/rails and the chain hydraulic tensioners too. If the chains are worn enough to justify replacement the sprockets have to be considered worn and in need of replacement too. From my motorcycle days one never just replaced a worn out chain wtihout also replacing the sprockets.

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How would you change that chain without splitting the case?

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It cannot be done..to replace the crankshaft to IMS chain the cases must be separated and the crank carrier removed.

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So this is how threads turn into 10 page epic novels... I never said anything about changing the IMS chain. The only thing I did mention early on was that if the cam timing chains (between intake and the exhaust cams) looked worn I might as well change them while I was there changing the pads. They are inexpensive and easy to access. It's really that simple... I never mentioned any of the other chains. But, if you'd like to write a few more paragraphs in reply, be my guest��

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10 pages ain't nothing. I did a quick review and I didn't see you say anything about the IMS chain. I did see "chains" and made the assumption this included all chains. Have to say if the chains between the exhaust and intake cams are worn enough to replace -- which I doubt they are -- other chains should also come under suspicion. They all see the same amount of wear and tear. But of course it is up to you and you can limit any chain replacement to just the actuator chains if you believe this justified. There. I limited myself to a few more paragraphs.

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don't worry this thread has a few more pages in it.

A little more progress last night: As you can see I've removed the rear bumper, exhaust shields, throttle body, power steering reservoir and the AC compressor (that rear bolt is a b*tch - I can see it's going to be fun getting it back in). The third photo is just showing the acorns found on top of the passenger side head... I haven't found any chewed wires yet. This is just from my car sitting out in the driveway through the summer and fall...

Do you leave the AC lines attached? I'm lucky enough that I have a friend with a lift in his garage when it comes time to do mine.

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^Yes^ AC lines stay hooked up, so no need to evacuate or re-fill AC system. The trade-off is the difficulty of removal/installation of the AC compressor. Well worth the effort in my mind.

You have enough clearance to pull the engine out?

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I'm not positive on that yet - I've got 25" below the engine now...

So, just a quick update: I still haven't quite gotten the engine out, but I'm getting very close now... I don't know if I mentioned it before, but it's a C4 so I need to remove the drive shaft (cardan shaft) that drives the front wheels. The rear facing (toward the engine) 7.5mm hex bolts were a bit of a wild card, so it took me close to an hour to break the three of them loose. The good news is that I got all of them out without stripping anything. As it turned out, I didn't have a 7.5mm Allen wrench, but a 5/16" worked perfectly! I'm hoping to drop the Motor/Tranny on Thursday evening... we'll see

I started dropping the Engine and transmission last night. The last connections I've got left to remove are the power steering lines. Once they're removed I should be able to drop everything down a ways and unbolt the transmission from the engine... a few more photo's cross member and coolant lines disconnected. Hydraulic table under engine ready to go starting to drop everything disconnected except power steering lines Looks like I'll be replacing the guibo.

Is that red scissor jack the only thing the engine and the transmission sitting on during lowering?

No! The Harbor Freight hydraulic table is clearly visible in photo's 1 and 3. The engine is sitting on the table, the tranny is on the tranny jack... I should get them down and out from under the car tonight - just going super slow so as not to break anything while making silly mistakes...

It's looking good, dpoto. I too got around to trouble shooting my CEL & P1325 code which is opposite of your solenoid. Found out via the ohms test read out on the Bank 2 Solenoid that low readings were no where near what the good working one off Bank 1 read. So got I've got parts associated on order and awaiting delivery then I too will jack the car up, drop the motor and perform surgery soon.

And... it's out! Through engine bay from drivers side underneath from passengers side It'll probably take me an hour or so to clean up and make space in an area where I can actually work, and move comfortably around the engine. In hindsight, I should have had my son get his 944 out of the garage before I started this project... Now the real fun starts

Congrats! Looks easier than it really was, I'm sure. Keep us updated. It's guys like you that educate dummies like me by doing these types of things and sharing the pics and experiences.

Thanks Billy! None of it was particularly difficult but, obviously there's an awful lot to it. The big obstacles are corrosion, and time. Space is always a consideration as well - this would be a difficult undertaking in a 1 car garage. Although I've got an extra car in my space (2 car + with a loft) it's on dolly's so I can move it around if need be. The loft also gives me some extra space to put things like bumper covers etc. and work on little things like treating and repainting rusted parts. I'm looking forward to actually getting to the engine work that necessitated the rest of this excersise.

Cool thread. What instruction set did you use for dropping the engine? Also, what dolly are you using for the supporting the engine (I have the exact same transmission jack as well)? Thanks, Mike

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Dotto! I mean Ditto, lol!

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its the Harbor freight hydraulic table (500lb model). I should have gotten the 1000lb model as this one will lose altitude over time... I'm going to put it on an engine stand anyway, so it should be alright...

Another step closer.. This took me all of 15 minutes including marking and bagging the bolts... removing the exhaust components is going to be a different story - I've been soaking the bolts/nuts for well over a week already. The one nut I was able to get off took me about 20 min. I think I'm just going to cut the rest of the ones that I can get to as I've already ordered a bunch of new hardware. Even if the nuts come off they're not reusable. I also replaced the power steering pulley which was steel and rusted with a nice aluminum one for $20 (used on eBay). What's the best way to remove the intake plenum? Directly at the block/case, or just the upper part and leave the "stacks" ? Lots more little stuff to come off...

I left the risers on the engine and got to them later once more stuff was removed.

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Perfect, exactly what I was looking for - Thanks

So, a few questions in anticipation of replacing the cam chain tension-er pads: ** I've done a search on this and reading through at least 5 threads, I'm no closer to an answer than I was an hour and a half ago... 1) The best sealant for the cam covers? Use the OEM recommendation or is there a better aftermarket product? 2) Cam cover bolts... Replace? 1 use only? Any recommendations? OEM or Aftermarket ? 3) Engine stand mounting points: 4 points ok? Yoke - worthwhile/mandatory? That's all for now, I'm sure I'll think of more shortly...

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^.

Thank you^^^ Same sealant for oil sump plate?

Just wanted to add I used loctite 243 on the cam cover bolts. I used a 4 point stand and added one more arm to it to reduce the stress on the engine case.

You can use the mechanical HF trans jack under the engine to provide support. If you want to use additional arms ( I went mad and used 6 ! ) buy some threaded rod to make your own attachments to the case. There is a yoke vendor on Bay now who sells a 5-arm yoke for the M96.I just modified an HF one.

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new bolts? They're micro encapsulated aren't they? Is the loctite necessary or more of a "safety net"? Also, 46 bolts total (23/side)?

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Did you use new bolts? They're micro encapsulated aren't they? Is the loctite necessary or more of a "safety net"? Also, 46 bolts total (23/side)?

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yes and for engine case sealing but I don't think youre doing that. 5k km now on the motor rebuild, 0 oIL leaks.

Thanks again, you're turning out to be a valuable resource! I appreciate it

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I've gotten a little closer over the last two nights, but not quite there yet. I've had to cut almost every nut off of the exhaust system - I haven't even tried the header bolts yet - any recommendations for these are appreciated. Two of the long bolts that hold the mufflers to the stand off brackets broke off and are seized in the brackets...I've been letting them soak and have tried applying heat, but no luck yet. I also got all the bolts (6 per side) out of the intake plenum. The plenum is loose but still being held by a few wires and hoses... probably another hour or two before I get everything off the block... I'm also thinking about taking the clutch off and checking the thickness of the pressure plate "while I'm in here"... anything special to watch out for? Flying springs etc...?

no, remove the bolts, and it comes off.

10-4 ! Will do - I already "cracked" all the bolts, so no problems there...I wish I could say the same about the exhaust - Holy crap! What a pain in the butt. Patience is a virtue with this part of the job...

got the clutch off and got the bolts loose on the muffler hangers yesterday (only had an hour...). I was pleasantly surprised by the clutch and flywheel. The flywheel shows virtually no wear whatsoever - really just shiny where the pressure plate contacts, no ridge at all. The pressure plate measure 7.66 mm - is that close to new spec.? Does anyone have that number/measurement? Flywheel face - no ridge... Thickness of pressure plate

AFAIK there is no call out for the pressure plate thickness. My factory references give a clutch disc measurement to determine if the disc is worn out. For my Turbo one measures the distance from the disc surface to the top of the disc rivet, the flanged side of the rivet. The new dimension is 1.7mm. The clutch disc is considered worn out when the distance gets to less than 0.3mm.

Sorry, "clutch disk" is what I meant... I didn't measure depth to the rivet - I measured total thickness (both sides) I'll measure that depth today. Judging by what I looked at I'm sure there's way more than .3mm - how much, I'm not sure. Thanks

On the exhaust bolts, Use a 1/4 or 3/8 impact with twin hammer and no more than 35ft/lbs torque but high impacts per minute 2k-3k. The hammering vibration is more effective at loosening rusted corroded bolts than a steady pull by hand. I have seen many of these broken off , so many that there is a jig made for drilling and retaping them.

Thanks for the suggestion! All the exhaust components have now been removed. Sorry - no pictures, I forgot my phone last night...All the bolts came out of the heads with no problems. Many of the others broke, but were removed fairly easily. The only ones that are still seized are the ones in the muffler support "isolators" - where a long M8 bolt runs through a sleeve in the isolator. The nuts snapped off as soon as I tried to turn them. I sourced a pair of isolators on ebay for $65 each, so if I have to destroy mine I will - if not I'll re-sell the ones I bought.

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The spec is the minimum distance between the head of the rivet (the star burst side, not the smooth side) and the top of the disc is > 0.3mm. New is about 1.9mm

The Cam cover bolts are full thread Machine bolts. There is no shoulder. I have noticed this apparently sloppy specification for fasteners elsewhere on the engine.(Rod & Head Bolts for example !). My (OCD?) objection for the cam cover bolts is that the full length threads provide a perfect capillary pathway for oil all the way to the head of the bolt, where it may drip,drip,.... A case could be made to apply a smidgen of thread sealer(not Locker!) under the head of each cam cover bolt ? There is one bolt on the Cam cover (you will find it !) that is rather difficult to access. I replaced it with an Allen/internal socket head bolt +washer of the same spec. Easier to remove now. BTW , how would you feel about switching to stainless steel fasteners for the entire exhaust system and studs for the headers?

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I'm not sure if I've ordered my cam cover bolts yet... I've ordered so much stuff I can't keep track of it all. Fortunately nothing has been too expensive... yet... The header bolts didn't give me any problems at all. I'll probably stick with bolts this time around. I do think stainless steel hardware for the rest of the exhaust system may be in order in addition to liberal amounts of anti- seize - had whoever worked on this thing last time done it I would have fine (it's got fabspeed maxflow's on it so I know they're not original).

Quick update... I finally got the engine on an engine stand (had to get a different one as the first one I got with a "T" base wouldn't fit under the hydraulic table that the engine was on...).

So, I was able to spend a couple hrs. yesterday evening and get all the "over engine stuff" - Intake plenums, wiring harness('s), vacuum valves, switches and lines, hoses, AOS etc. removed. Believe it or not, no breakage (yet) except for 1 "spaghetti" vacuum line. The top of the engine was unbelievably disgusting with lots of rodent hair, droppings etc. so I spent some time cleaning that mess up. Tonight I should be able to do a little more cleaning and then get the coils, plugs, and tubes out in preparation to remove the cam covers.

Thanks for posting the pictures, this is interesting. Now that I see all the work that is required, I am almost leaning towards having somebody else do this for me. Not that I wouldn't enjoy it, and I have a friend who has a lift, but just looks like a lot of work and to do it first time could be a lot. Time will tell. LN Engineering is 40 miles away from me and they have the race shop attached to it that does this type of work. Not bad when Charles is 30 feet away from your car when it is being upgraded/repaired.

It's a huge amount of work for me because I only get short blocks of time to work on it - certainly not an ideal situation. That being said, it's nice to become "intimately acquainted" with the engine...and hopefully once I get the tensioner pads replaced (and maybe the cam chains) my CEL goes away and stays away for a reasonable period of time. There are at least a few small things that need replacing (vacuum hoses and such) and there was an awful lot of gunk and rust that i'm glad I'm able to address. Bottom line is, I don't think I want to be doing this again any time soon

Suggest you support the engine under the sump a little.That is a huge amount of weight to cantilever off 4 bolts but it is often done with seemingly no ill effects. The HF trans jack(screw -scissor type) works perfectly and has many other uses.

SG - good suggestion and exactly what I've been doing when I'm not working on it! Unfortunately the transmission is still sitting on the HF jack, but I've got a couple others that are free so they get job.

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I used the same style engine stand and was only able to secure it with 3 bolts. Stayed on that stand like that for 2 years with 0 issues.

THis photo may help: http://986forum.com/forums/performan...e-adapter.html

A few little updates. While waiting for a cam lock tool to arrive, I decided to do a little more "house keeping". First, I pulled off the sump plate. No metal at all, just some sealant bits and 1 little piece of plastic (tensioner pad) in the oil pickup tube. I'm pretty sure this stuff is sealant from the cam covers judging by the rather sloppy job shown in the picture below. This one is for SG - One thing that surprised me is that there doesn't seem to be any sealant at all on the sump plate... Is this recommended? It never leaked any oil...

Amazed it did not leak - someone at the factory did some good machining ! A 1mm bad can do no harm if carefully applied. I used warmed Dreibond but guess many alternatives would be O.K.

I agree... I was amazed at how easily it popped off - I thought i'd have to pry a little bit. Also, I though these two photos might be of interest. My mufflers are absolutely disgusting compared to some I've seen. The first photo is as it came out of the car. The second is after a quick blast of Gum Cutter and a little wipe. They should clean up quite nicely. Granted you can't really see them once everything is put back together - but I figure while I'm in there it can't hurt to clean things up a little...

Dporto, looks like you are moving along well. I'm kind of on the same boat as you only having a few hours here and there to turn wrenches and trying to fix a CEL coupled with a P1325 code. I'm working the opposite side of what you are doing, I just finished replacing a bad solenoid, it failed the ohms test on my bank 2. Also if you don't get the Vareocam tensioner cylinder compression tool let me know, as I built my own with a regular mountain bike tire skewer and a reverse thread cutter. A great inexpensive idea that works phenomenally well, I got the idea from Noz1974 a while back when I was replacing my Vareocam pads.

Device2 - That's awesome...I was trying to remember the post/thread with that tool. Wayne Dempsey/Pelican says just use zip ties, but I like the idea of the tool better. Can you give me the actual thread size/pitch so I can go ahead and make one of these things? If I remember correctly, one side is a regular right hand thread and the other is left handed???

See Post 9 https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ol-thread.html

Sure thing the dimensions are M5 thread with 0.8 pitch left handed thread. On my engine (99 Manufactured) both VareoCam tensioner units were left handed threaded. Like Noz1974 said in one of his post I used a bike skewer and then used a die cutter and cut new threads for left handed use. plus the compression feature of the skewer works awesomely. You can get a cutter from eBay for $2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/M5-0-8-Pitch...3D371841367740 Yesterday afternoon I was getting ready to stuff the engine back in.. Mind you I always work alone for a reason, I had a well intentioned assistant (family friend) who was very enthusiastic about helping. Anyhow with in the first seconds of starting the task of raising the motor he grabbed the oil filler tube and we ended with this.. (Epic Fail) There I am now at a stand still awaiting delivery of the new part, upgraded to the new Porsche 99710713100 part and we will see how that new part fits, since it looks like the old 996 part is now obsolete.

Get a new cap also and use the old one to adapt for a digital manometer?

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Thanks for the links...just what I need. Shame on the oil fill! I think mine's been replaced since it's very supple, with no cracking. I usually work alone as well, unless I have something that absolutely needs 4 hands or two sets of eyes etc... BTW - your engine looks great! what did you clean it with?

A couple questions: 1) What is the length of the skewer ? 2) Length of threaded part? It looks like many of them are different...

I will get the exact measurements for you. If I recall correctly I used the smaller of the two set mountain bike skewers, then cut about 3/8" of reversed threads into it then picked up slack or gave myself working space with the spacers. I know what you mean about the different cuts and lengths of over the counter skewers. I had a back burner project to make 2 more that would be more clean cut then the prototype. As far as the engine I cleaned the heck out of it when I did my small refresh. I must admit I am OCD about engine cleanliness. I used over the counter carburetor cleaner for some items, other things just regular over the counter engine degreaser, elbow grease and water. Then the heavier stuff I took the parts (block, valve covers & oil pan) to an engine rebuilder nearby that cleans the parts in his professional parts cleaning tub for $38. Night and day difference of what I had. I also had my alternator completely rebuilt and cleaned by another local guy (new guts, new bearing and I supplied the voltage regulator) for $90.

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^ Nice^!!! I don't think I'll go that far, but I am going to do a "good" cleaning. I've used "gum cutter" so far on the heavy stuff trying to be careful about hitting plastics and rubber with it - it can be pretty harsh stuff.

I only got in two hours or so yesterday.. I pulled off the cam end covers, and everything seems to be pointing in the right directions for being locked at TDC. Waiting on the cam lock tool(s) before popping the covers. I decided to do the water pump and thermostat since It's been more than three years since they've been changed (but I'm not sure how much more...), they're relatively inexpensive, and it's WAY easier to do with the engine out! The water pump/impeller is in perfect condition (no bushing wobble or leakage) despite the corrosion visible on the out side. In addition, the inside of the coolant passages are clean and pristine

Anyone know what type of bearing (single row or double row) this is by looking at the flange? This is an M96-04 engine my2000...

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It looks like an LN imsb flange? Can you clean up the rust and see if there are other markings?

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There is an F2 marking at the bottom right bolt. I don't see the LN in a circle logo I've seen on other flanges. It was suggested by Stephen at LN that based on the serial # on my drivers door tag that it's a "dual row" The bearing/serial# was manufactured in 2013

Are you going to replace it again or you're going to install the IMS Solution?

I'm seriously ambivalent! One of the reasons I'm trying to find out which bearing it is, is so I can make a slightly more informed decision. I think the bearing probably has about 30,000 mi. on it. If it's a "single row pro", I may just leave it alone for at least another 20-30k. If not, I just may do "the solution" and be done with it once and for all...

What's another $1750? Slippery Slope! So the bearing has been changed before?

You are knee deep - and everything is right there

Slippery slope indeed!

The car has 147,000 mi. on it. There are two LN IMSR tags on the drivers side door. The first one was manufactured in 2011. The second in 2013. My hypothesis (I have no "real service records to speak of - the dealer "The Porsche Exchange" in Illinois wouldn't release them) is that the first retrofit was put in to replace a failed/failing bearing that eventually failed a year or two later. At that point another engine was sourced (an M96-04 which it seems were only manufactured in 2000) and the bearing was replaced before the engine was installed. Neither bearing installation was registered with LN Engineering, and they can't say what type of bearing it is - only that it was manufactured in 2013... I'm somewhat dismayed by this, but it's their story and they're sticking to it...

So, as I'm sitting and waiting for some special tools (cam lock tools) and a bunch of bolts, gaskets (oil pumps, intakes etc.) to come in I have a few nagging questions: 1) Where/When is it acceptable to re-use bolts (for the most part I've ordered new, but I foresee when putting things back together, maybe finding out that I omitted something). Ok, to use thread locker/sealer? 2) I know on occasion it's recommended to use thread sealer on certain things in the service manuals...Any circumstances where it's not mentioned, but a good idea anyway? 3) How about anti-seize ? I've got both the Copper type and the Aluminum type - which is better where? I think the copper type is better for high temps - so I'll probably use that on exhaust system, but what about header bolts to head? It didn't seem like there was anything on mine, and I didn't have any trouble removing them... 4) If I do use Anti-seize, how does it affect torque values? Is there a rule of thumb, or, is this un-knowable? I'm sure there are many more, but this is all can think of now...

It's good practice to replace all critical bolts and stretch bolts (flywheel, crank pulley, rod bolts, head bolts, crank carrier bolts,3.6 and 3.8 cam gear bolts,). rod bolts can only be torqued or retorqued 4 times, Micro encapsulated bolts (some case bolts and some head cover bolts)should be replaced or sealed. Non-critical bolts can be reused provided the threads are not damaged. Anti-seize will not have a huge affect on torque spec (since all threads should be clean and lightly lubed with engine oil if anti-seize is not used) Copper anti-seize is best for exhaust/high temp, for the header to head use copper anti-sieze or use stainless steel studs with copper nuts ( to permanently avoid broken bolts in the head) Thread locker will make bolts harder (or sometimes impossible , especially the red/high strength) to remove in the future, so only use where the FSM instructs you to.

Thank you Porschetech3! Yes, I bought new flywheel bolts, and Cam cover bolts header bolts (before the stainless studs were suggested - but may still get them anyway),plus many others (exhaust especially)... I'm thinking I'll probably re-use things like intake manifolds etc... I'm sure I'll think of more questions in the next few days as my parts are dribbling in.

Does anybody know what the size of the hex key chain tensioner is (the one at the crank pulley end of the engine). The largest one I had was 10mm... I'm thinking it's 12 or 13mm - should have measured with my caliper but forgot and already left the shop ^^ So after doing about an hour and a half of research, I finally came up with 14mm^^ Special thanks to Dharn55

I picked up a 14mm hex key socket and removed the last chain tensioner. I dug into the IMS flange (after locking the cams of course)with full intensions of pulling the bearing out tonight. I removed the center nut, no problem. I removed the three flange bolts no problem. I tried to remove the flange...problem! I spent nearly two hours trying to finesse the flange out of the crankcase with no success It seems that whoever did the last IMSR used some sort of sealer around the gasket. I was finally able to get the flange to turn but not to move outward at all. I used mini pry bars, screwdrivers etc. but it's difficult to get any real leverage on it - when I was able to get a decent bite, it just refused to pop out at all. Any and all ideas/suggestions are welcome !

I presume you feel the flange is so tight you don't want to pull on the center bolt - to pull both the bearing and the flange out ? You have removed or loosened the nearby crankcase half bolts(that need to be upgraded anyway? You've sprayed Kroil/PB Blaster where appropriate ? A desperate option would be to thread the holes in the flange and adapt a puller to engage in them or on an adapter.

No, I actually got it to turn fairly easily (by using a screw driver as a lever between the case and the closest bolt flanges). I thought about all the things you mentioned, but didn't want to go improvising before running it by someone who's actually done this. I have not loosened the "crankcase half bolts" - nor did I plan to... This is the first I've heard this mentioned...??? Hopefully after sitting overnight with some PB Blaster in there it'll cooperate next time I get up there (not for a few days as my schedule is jammed). Thanks for the heads up/ideas

Perhaps read the LN IMSB Instructions to learn about those bolts? They need to be replaced and they constrict the area you are fighting with.

Having just done the IMSB on my 99, I can tell you that you'll need to apply some decent force on the flange. As long as you have the 3 bolts holding the flange and the center nut removed, you have pull pretty hard. I used a large pry bar here. No need to remove anything else to get the flange out...

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I've read several different IMSB procedures and I don't remember seeing anything about those case bolts. I was a little surprised at how tight the flange is because every thing I've read or seen makes it look fairly simple to remove. I'll regroup in the next few days and figure out how to get it out without doing any collateral damage. I was hoping to get it out last night so I could at least identify the bearing that's in there, so I could formulate a plan to replace it. ** I just want to say here that I think it's totally ridiculous that there is no way to identify the bearing that's in there without removing it first and then HAVING to replace it because it can't be re-used... Doesn't this seem silly? (and unnecessarily expensive?)

The IMS flange can be quite aggravating to remove some times. There is a rare Porsche special tool that hooks into the three "ears" (the notches on the backside of the "ears")of the flange to pull it off, but Indy shops don't have them only Porsches dealers(and probably not all Porsche dealers have it because I don't think it was one of the "essential " tool list.) I have removed plenty of IMS flanges without the special tool just by using two lady finger/ lady foot pry-bars. Move the "ears" of the flange to one side to expose the back side of the "ear" then use the pry-bars to evenly as possible lever the flange out.

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I've got two lady foot prybars on order at the local napa auto parts store 👍😉

They are also known as heel bars Amazon Amazon

If those don't work you can always try this tool. (Porsche Tool 9673 Bearing Cap puller) it's going for $170.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-TOOL...oAAOSwsTxXkRRo

[QUOTE=Device2;14210796]If those don't work you can always try this tool. (Porsche Tool 9673 Bearing Cap puller) it's going for $170.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-TOOL...oAAOSwsTxXkRRo Yep , that's the one. I bet the seller doesn't know the prominence associated with that tool.

A sliding hammer puller with 3 built-in heel bars...nice. I think it also took me some effort to remove the IMSB flange on my '02 996. I used those mini heel bars as well.

A few tools and things came in today so I couldn't wait for my lady's foot prybars... For one I got my thermostat gasket (why it doesn't come with the water pump is beyond me) so I put that on... then I couldn't leave well enough alone so I started massing with the ims flange... that's when it hit me that I might be able to use the ims puller tool with my wheel bearing "bridge" to pull the flange... it worked I'll get deeper into the explanation in the morning...

As you can see in the photos above and below, I've got a dual row bearing. The problem for me is that I can't tell if it's a true "dual row"(I think it is) or a single row pro - does anyone have the dimensions of the dual row bearing? It's a little perplexing to me because my engine is a M96-04 (manufactured in 2000) so it's from the period when they were using both types of bearings. They bearing seems to be in great shape - the cages are totally intact as are the ***** that I can see (I haven't removed the rear seal yet). The oil in the front of the bearing was super clean, and there was no oil to speak of in the shaft. Bearing depth 20.15mm You can see a little galling on the bottom of the bore You can see the edge of the flange is bent(upper edge in photo- is actually the lower edge of the flange) So, it's pretty obvious that whoever did the last retrofit jammed the flange in crooked and caused that galling and the bent edge of the flange. No wonder it was so difficult to get it out The question now is how to deal with the bore. I'm thinking I'm just going to try to burnish the little ridge that's there and then just use a little sealant when I install the flange. Sound feasible? Any other ideas?

The factory dual row is 23.8mm thick (proprietary to Porsche) , the single row is 14mm thick. The available dual row aftermarket bearings as yours 20.15 and require a spiral lock and also a spacer ( or custom thicker flange) to make up the difference.

Yours is the aftermarket LN dual row with the custom thicker flange.

^Yes^ thanks for the reply ! LN Engineering has acknowledged that it is their "classic dual row retrofit IMS bearing"... I've ordered the dual row Solution to replace it...

In the last week I got the IMS Solution and the two tool sets (IMS Pro and Supplemental) necessary to do the install. Last night I put a couple hours in and did the install. The actual installation of the IMS end plug and the bearing itself was a piece of cake - The flange, not so much. The fit of the flange to the bore was fine, but the positioning of the oil feed was much closer to the center-line of the case halves than in the instructions (sorry no photo's yet - it was late last night). The Dremel tool was my friend, and after many adjustments with the cutoff wheel I was able to get the oil line to clear the crank case. more photo's to come later. Notch in case started- I wound up having to go much lower or further toward the center-line where the case splits. Ims plug installed

And, no... I haven't gotten to the cam chain tensioner pads yet, as I'm STILL waiting on a bunch of parts I ordered on 5/16, from Autoatlanta...

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A few photos of the finished "Solution" and then on to the reason for you his whole exercise!

Ok, so I finally got to the cam cover after finishing the IMS Solution last night. As you can see in the photo, whoever had this cover off last, used a crazy amount of sealant...Now I know that the black stuff in my oil pick up tube wasn't chain pad material... I think it's going to take me awhile to get this stuff cleaned up🙄

I got the vari-cam pads last night. All of 15 minutes to actually change them out...bank one is now done. The pads themselves were barely worn. I'm thinking maybe the actuator is bad? How can I check it? *** for some reason my photos won't upload... I've tried twice now...😰

I'll try this one more time Bank 1 Cams out on the bench Actuator out. Top rail very little wear Bottom rail very little wear New rails installed Actuator back in. The trick to installation is to let the sprockets hang off the edge of the bench Back in the motor All back in with all bolts torqued.

Impressed!

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Meh... when the engine is back in the car, running and without codes, I'll take the props!😄

Interesting that you did not find the pads worn. So what are you going to do? Put everything back together or troubleshoot the actuators while out of the car?

Good question...unfortunately I'm not sure of the answer. The solenoids/actuators seemed to be working when I tested them with the durametric. I'd really rather not change the actuators @ 1k apiece - only to find out that I'm still in the same boat. I wonder if it could be the chains (stretch?) They certainly looked ok, with no visible signs of damage. I did order new ones which I should have in another day or so. I'll probably pop the cams back out and change the chain - the first time was good practice.

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Is chain stretch something you can measure? Forgive me as I don't know too much about this topic, but, wouldn't chain stretch take quite a large number of miles to occur?

I think the deviations we're talking about are in the thousandths of inches, so measure? yes. Large # of miles? It all depends - mechanical things fail at different rates for all different reasons. FYI, I'm pretty sure my engine has at least 100k miles on it (I'm pretty sure it's not the original engine). The vario-cam pads have clearly been replaced, but I don't know when - and I don't know if the chains were done at the same time.

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I'd be curious what other components you'd be able to measure to root cause this. Maybe the sprocket teeth are out of spec? Just thinking out loud.

I appriciate the thoughts...I suppose it's a possibility, but there are other more probable causes I would think. Especially, seeing as there are 5 chains...There are a lot of moving parts to a chain so they would be my first guess. Unfortunately, most of them are buried in the crankcase...

Yes those pads have definitely less than 50k on them, your code could have came from the timing being set on the verge of being out of spec and with a little more chain wear it set the lite off. I'm guessing you didn't log the deviations when you first got it?

The chains CAN be measured for "stretch". It's really not a stretch but a wear of the pins and links in an oblong pattern stacked up over many links ends up lengthening the chain. ALL the chains in the early 5 chain motors weather it's the short cam to cam single row chains, or the long IMS to cam double row chains are .375 pitch.(meaning .375 from center of pin to next center of pin), So for 14 links it should measure 5.250 inches, 28 links 10.500 inches ect. The general rule for industry is 2% wear, but on critical chains such as this I suggest 1%. It's a bit hard to measure and with a tape measure it is not real accurate, so I use a dial or digital caliper and with the INSIDE tips measure INSIDE of 14 links. With measuring the INSIDE of 14 links you have to subtract the diameter of the roller which is .250, so the "new" length should measure 5.000 instead of 5.250. Then you can just do a little math and determine that .25% =5.012 .50%=5.025 1%=5.050 2%=5.100. I suggest replacing at 1%!!

I didn't do a data log in Durametric (I don't think), but I did take photos of my screen, so I do remember the deviations. Bank1 was -6.13 and Bank 2 was -7.25

So, I installed a new vario-cam chain yesterday (Iwis). It's even easier the second time around...One discrepancy I ran into was the torque values on the exhaust cam sprocket. Knowledge Gruppe - has them being torqued to 14nm and the Bentley Manual has them at 10nm... I used Jake's #'s as 10 nm (7.5 ft lbs) seems a little light for those bolts? Any feedback?

I agree, the 10nm (7.5 ft/lb) is the Porsche spec also, and seems to be to light. Makes me a bit nervous to leave them at that. I always go a little higher just to make myself more comfortable.

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It seems that the current revision is 14 nm. I hope I don't have to drop my engine in 2018 (next revision) just to tighten up my cam chain sprockets !

I did bank 2 yesterday afternoon - all very similar. Vario-Cam pads barely worn. Changed out the vario-cam chain and pads anyway. Did the cam timing on bank 1, and stopped there. I should get to timing bank 2 later on this afternoon. I won't post any photo's, as they're pretty much identical to bank 1. The cam cover sealant while pretty heavy on bank 1 was just ridiculous on bank 2. I'll post a photo of that later on as I saved all the stuff I scraped from the edges (inner and outer)... I should start reassembling the engine after I get the second bank timed and will hopefully have it done by the end of the week. Maybe even get it installed next week...

Replacement/update or wrong part? This is the IMS chain tensioner on a M96-04 3.4l 5 chain motor Old on the left new on the right

Ha! Oh well, never mind... it looks like it is a different part, but it was listed in the parts drawings as the same part # - I must have just gone with the first one on the list (it was also a few $ less, but that wouldn't have made a difference had I realized it was different)... Anyway, I'll just put the original one back in 'til I get the new one.

Great thread Dporto...following along with interest and the hope I don't have to do it! I am getting geared up to do the IMSS on my car as well. Is it a good idea to replace all three tensioners? I was under the impression there was a design change or??? My 2004 has 40K miles... Chris

Well seeing as your engine is a 3 chain version, the tensioners may be slightly different. The parts breakdown on Autoatlanta showed these two tensioners as the same number (#35 on the parts diagram). Granted, the actual part #'s are different, but I assumed this was due to revisions/updates - I also assumed that they were interchangeable since they were listed as the same # on the diagram... I was wrong ... Whether you should change them out or not? In my case, I had a fault code related to cam deviations - which ultimately could be related to the chain tensioners (in theory at least). I figured that $3-400 wasn't too much to spend to rule out the possibility of a faulty tensioner. I don't know if there's a way you can test yours to see if they're ok before replacing them. Good luck with your project

Thanks for the response. I was sort of along the same mindset regardless...the cost versus going back...and dealing with the A/C compressor made sense! Look forward to your updates. Chris

I got the exhaust manifolds and the intake runners on last night. It doesn't seem like whole lot, but attention to detail takes time. Overall it wound up taking me about 2.5 hrs. Of course it took 30 minutes just to clean up the work area to where I wasn't tripping over tools, shop towels, puddles of oil etc...Anyway, even though these are basically simple tasks, all the mating surfaces had to be scraped and cleaned before bolting everything together. And...a couple photo's... Exhaust manifolds reinstalled with new gaskets and bolts (along with high temp copper anti-seize Intake runners all cleaned up with new gaskets I also got the new AOS installed - I can't imagine having to do it with the engine in the car... Tonight I'm hoping to get all crankcase emissions tubes/lines, vacuum lines and wiring harness reconnected. I was pretty careful to label everything as I was disassembling it, so it shouldn't be too difficult... We'll see

d: You are making great progress! Very impressive. I may have missed it but you, apparently, believe your repairs have corrected the original code?

I sure as hell hope so! The pads weren't badly worn, so maybe the timing was a bit off to start with. I've re-timed both banks and installed new chain tensioners. Unfortunately, I won't know 'til I put everything back together and reinstall the engine in the car... I'm not sure what I'll do if I haven't resolved the code...Perhaps drop to my knees and cry ?

Impressive indeed! The attention to detail is key; I think you got that covered. Hope the rest of the install goes smoothly. Chris

d: Also given that the cam advance actuators/solenoids etc tested ok couldn't be much else other than timing, right? Fingers crossed, but my guess is you got it fixed!

Last night I got quite a bit done. One little bump was not remembering exactly what order I took everything apart. The way I had things piled/laid out helped to some extent, but I wasn't super careful about it. For instance, I should have put the starter back in right after the vacuum reservoir air valve combo... Not a big deal, just a bit of a pain. Everything else seemed to go really well - the wiring harness was very straight forward since I was pretty careful with the labeling (as you can see in the photo's). I won't get back to it 'til Tuesday eve. I'm hoping to get the exhaust system back on next week. It's coming together... I haven't re-attached the intake plenum yet as there are a few wire and vacuum line routing's that I want to be totally sure about before locking everything down.

I got just about everything back on the top of the engine last night. I wasted about an hour and a half when I noticed that I had left off the pipe that runs from the AOS across the top but under the intake plenum (and the wiring harness etc...) to the passenger side of the engine. Unfortunately, you can't just snake it through due to all the bends in the pipe. It was annoying, but I just had to bite the bullet... Just a few more little connections before I get the rest of the exhaust components back on, then move on to the clutch.

Looking good, however...

Did well tonight. I got the exhaust system all back together and mounted up. Pretty straight forward job - very cool design.

I applaud you for the work you've done to your engine so far. Keeping my fingers crossed for you and hope she runs like a champ!

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^Me too^ !!!

into the home stretch!

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^Indeed!^ One thing I forgot to mention earlier. I've read lots of other posts where people referred to the "new style/upgraded coils with longer bolts", but there was no mention of the use of standoffs for the heat shields. I wound up using a stack of washers (5 - 6mm flat) on mine, but a nice 10-12 mm SS standoff would be more elegant...

Dporto, Home Depot sells nice little spacer bushings that you can use to properly space out the heat shields. Cruise in their fastener aisle they have bins with a wide selection of sizes.

Ah, thanks - I actually had some at home that I saved a few years ago - always knew I'd use them some day Last night I cleaned up the shop, reorganized all my tools, prepped the path to move the engine back to the rear of the car where I'll mount up the transmission. At that point, I transffered the engine from the engine stand back onto the hydraulic table - about two hours all told including clean-up. At that point I started to install the Flywheel/Clutch. I didn't get very far as the pilot bearing was a super tight fit and it didn't want to start very straight. Instead of trying to mash it in there, I decided to back off, throw the bearing in the freezer and come back the next time I get a little time to work (who knows when, with the holiday coming up...).

I got 2 hrs. In this afternoon. Installed the flywheel, clutch disk & pressure plate. I then mounted the transmission to the engine... Flywheel on- new bolts, torqued to 19ft lbs + 90 degrees... New clutch disk and pressure plate (Sachs) Transmission lined up and ready to go All bolted up and torqued. Will start to reinstall tomorrow

All lined up and ready to go Up it goes... Almost there And it's in Got the engine back in this morning. Everything went extremely smoothly albeit slow and a little fiddly... The hydraulic table I'm using is only rated at 500 lbs. so it won't lift the engine from its fully lowered position. I have to position floor jacks on either side and lift the top part of the table with the jacks, then pump up the cylinder. Once it's about halfway up, the hydraulics have enough oomph that lift it the rest of the way...

SWEET! What is your timeline for "buildin a far in that non-cast iron SOB"?(modified quote from my NASCAR fan buddy)

I'm shooting for on the road by the end of the week...🙂

Very nice

Rooting for ya bud.

Excellent job and excellent pictures! Fingers crossed for the issue being a non-timed engine!

woohoo!!

Hmmm, got what seemed like only a little done today, especially as I had a second pair of hands (and a good brain) working with me - my son! I knew I'd need him since we couldn't find the pressurized bleeder (for the clutch slave cylinder). I didn't take the slave cylinder off the transmission when I removed it (it seemed like lots of people have trouble with exploding slave cylinders)- I just removed the hydraulic line. Fortunately I hadn't secured the transmission yet (it was still sitting on the jack) so I was able to lower it enough to where I could thread the flare nut into the slave cylinder - it wasn't easy, as the nut kept binding on the line, but eventually after what seemed like a thousand 1/8 to 1/4 turns I was able to cinch it up. Then came the bleeding of the line...It seemed to take forever - thank god my son was there to open and close the bleeder screw as I worked the clutch pedal. It must have taken 40 - 60 open/push/close/pull pedal up/ repeat cycles (including checking/topping up fluid) and a quart of ATE fluid before I got the pedal where it should be. At the halfway point, I was really starting to wonder whether something was wrong...Pressurized bleeder highly recommended...After that, I was able to get the transmission carriers mounted and the tranny all bolted up and properly torqued. The Knowledge Gruppe torque book has been an absolute godsend! If I had to look through the Bentley Book for all the t values, I would have spent at least a couple extra hours so far. No photos tonight, as it's all straight forward stuff and I was pressed for time...

wow! Nice work. Make my DIY's look like child play compared to what you are doing. Props

Today (After work - almost 3 hrs.) I got the transmission cables hooked up and zip tied into the brackets - also used plenty of anti-seize between the cable body and bracket to keep it from fusing together again... Transmission shifts like it should. Reconnected rear CV joints to transaxle and installed the rear crossmember. Reconnected all coolant hoses, throttle body, Power steering reservoir (also filled with fluid - for now), airbox/maf sensor. Getting closer...

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getting exciting!!!!

I got all the rest of the fiddly bits on last night, all bolts/nuts torqued to spec. I started by torquing all CV joint bolts. Installed rear cross-member supports, rear sway bar - confirmed no interference with the new "Solution" oil feed line (So, happy! as this had me worried since I have the heavy duty H&R adjustable sways). Installed rear bumper, exhaust heat shields, and rear bumper cover (I recommend 2 people for rear bumper cover - major pain doing it alone). rear bumper heat shields Bumper cover All I've got left: 1 - Drivers side wheel-well liner 2 - Underbody plastics 3- Bumperettes 4 - Fill oil 5 - Fill coolant 6 - Zip tie clutch lockout switch...(it never ends ) ** Start it up...

WOO HOO!

^Almost^, but not yet...

"The excitement is real!" The list is getting shorter.

Oops, I almost forgot... I have to put the rear wheels back on!...🙄

Is she alive!!!??!??!

I got it back on the road yesterday. Cranked and shut off as soon as it fired about four times to get the oil pressure up. Started and let run for about 2 or 3 min. Big lifter/valve train tick on the left/ drivers side of engine... freaked me out a little. Started up again let it run for about a minute, then revel it to about 2k rpm and held it there for about 30 sec. Tick went away - I'm thinking it was just an empty last flyer that had to pump up with oil. I took it out for a 50 mile drive. It ran/runs fantastic, but the CEL came back on🙄☹️. I'm certainly not defeated yet, but I'm not super happy either!

Bummer! What's the next course of action?

Don't be deterred by the CEl's . After a rebuild it is not unusual to get transient/false codes. Still need to be alert to potentially damaging Cel's for engine temp & oil pressure. Just keep running the Durametric to look for issues. The ticking Lifter issue - remember the issue Jake raised about Lifter Carrier wear - discussed in another Thread. Be careful with the oil choice

Code #???

So on my drive home this morning I had an epiphany! I never cleared the code before I disconnected the battery. Duh... The car is running really well. When I got home and giving it a good wash, I hooked it up to the Durametric. Sure enough, code 1341. Code now cleared... fingers crossed it doesn't come back (didn't have time to check real time stuff yet - have to be somewhere now...maybe be able to put some more miles on tonight - to see if the code comes back.

Good thoughts...

Obviously you took the motor apart but I wasn't clear as to which part did you replace or repair? Really glad it's running well and hopefully no more CEL.

Congrats dporto! I was thinking of you yesterday when I was changing my plugs and coil packs and pre-cat O2 sensors. I pulled the bumper, heat shields and mufflers.....that alone was a PITA. Actually, that is the hard part, the rest was easy. Fingers crossed on the codes.....let us know what your camshaft deviation readings are now, as I recall, one bank was about 8 degrees prior to this.

A few photos after the wash.. I'm going to drive it out to work on the morning (about 25 mi.) we'll see if I get a code or not...

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So, I know it's an awfully long thread...here's a brief synopsis: The precipitating symptom for all work was a CEL triggered by a 1341 fault code. Because I decided to drop the engine to facilitate removing/replacing the cam covers (to access the vario-cam pads - which I believed at the time were the source of the fault code) I decided to do a bunch of other stuff "while I was in there". I also have come to believe that the engine in my car is a replacement and therefore am unsure of the mileage on it, this also factored into my decision to replace the IMSB with the LNE Solution. The following is a list of parts I replaced. 1 - Vario-Cam chain rails/pads 2 - Vario-Cam chains 3 - LNE IMS Solution (replaced a LNE Classic Dual Row Retrofit which had not failed, but I was unsure of the mileage on it - I think around 40 -50k ) 4 - Water pump (Pierburgh) and LNE low temp thermostat 5 - LNE hardened oil pump drive key, new spring 6 - New Clutch/Pressure plate, throwout bearing - Sachs 7 - Manual transmission oil - Liqui-Moly 75/90 8 - Joe Gibbs DT40 oil 9 - Porsche Coolant 10 - New Continental serpentine belt 11 - New Coils (Beru) and Spark Plugs (Bosch) 11 - Misc. coolant hoses (2) clamps, nuts/bolts, gaskets etc. as needed. 12 - 3 new chain tensioners About $4k in parts... In total, it took me close to 8 weeks of part time work, but in real time I'm thinking it was probably around 40 -50 hrs. If I had to do it again, I could probably do it in 1/2 - 2/3 of that time, but still working carefully/deliberately. It was quite an experience

Keep us updated! I hope the CEL stays away!

Congrats glad you got it back on the road. Fingers crossed that you nipped the issue.

So, long story short is that the CEL came back. Took it home, put it on the Durametric, and this is what I got - 1341 and another (don't remember the # off hand) - something pertaining to the bank 2 post cat O2 sensor. The weird thing is that the 1341 says something to the effect of "deviation below specification". The upshot is that both banks were different and better than before. Bank 1 shows -3.0x and Bank 2 shows -5.1x . The perplexing thing is that both of these deviations seem to be within the acceptable operating range of +/- 6 ... Help me out here

P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit Potential causes: – Short to ground – Actuator faulty – Open circuit in triggering wire – Open circuit in B+ supply Isn't that the initial reason for this epic thread? Goodness, I really hope that is not the case. Use the Durametric, check and clear the fault codes, then trigger the Bank 1 actuator and note the engine change and see if the code comes back.

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Yes, it is indeed the impetus for this entire exercise! A little frustrating to say the least. I'm trying to remain positive in that the numbers are "better" than they were before all my work, and the fact that I addressed several other potential problem areas while I was at it. Prior to my opening the motor up, I did check both the solenoids and actuators and they seemed to be operating properly. I suppose my next move is to check the Bentley manual for a troubleshooting process for the "Triggering wire" and "B+ supply". ** I still don't understand why I'm getting a CEL when the deviation(s) are within the +/-6 degree parameter...

That is frustrating because in post #23 you said you could activate the solenoids on both banks and hear the idle changes. Can you activate the solenoids with Durametric now and what's the behavior?

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This is because P1341 complains about no detection of activation of variocam despite the DME "command" (as opposed to cam deviations out of range). So it seems like you have an intermittent failure...hard to isolate whether it's the DME, wiring, solenoid or the actuator. Maybe you can have a setup to mount the Durametric so you can view the actuation (actual cam angle) in real-time and hope to catch the intermittent failure in action (e.g. if you see the can angle doesn't change compared to bank 2). Then you can at least confirm the problem is intermittent.

We had a detailed Thread on RennTech in the 986 Section recently regarding this subject - Variocam Faults. See Post # 2 in this Thread for links. Thorough diagnosis of Variocam faults is tedious and time consuming. Durametric results are useful but to confirm them you need to make up Test Harnesses to activate the Solenoid, listen & feel for the click, test wiring all the way back to the DME and examine the DME. You'll need a Noid light,DMM, Bosch connectors,MOM switch, lots of wire and even more patience ! Jake kindly shared a great suggestion to make a harness to connect Bank 1 Solenoid wiring to Bank 2 and vice versa. The point of all this plodding diagnostics is to reliably demonstrate the fault with the engine running. That is the only way I know to be sure it is fixed - by doing all these tests before & after you have repaired/replaced a Variocam component. It is very easy to get muddled between electrical Solenoid faults , hydraulic or mechanical Actuator faults, wiring issues or DME faults . Unfortunately, Durametric won't tell you which specific item has failed .It just flags a defect somewhere in the entire Variocam system. That may (I am not an expert) even include the Cam Position Sensor system also. Once you start dismantling the Cam Cover ,your chance for diagnostics is lost. Yes, it took me many hours and some very insightful counseling from Ahsai,JFP.Porschetech3 and others to eventually locate the rinky dink failure.It seemed like I needed a $1000 Actuator. The combination of the diagnosis and advice indicated all I needed was a little unobtanium part. Your 1341 Fault is an Activation Fault, not a Deviation out of range fault. It may be a coincidence but eventually I also had to replace the CkPS, not the Cam Position Sensor - yet ! Good Luck and let us know what happens?

"This is because P1341 complains about no detection of activation of variocam despite the DME "command" (as opposed to cam deviations out of range)." ^^But Durameteric is saying "deviation below range" (or something to that effect)... I didn't have enough time to spend with it yesterday - just read the codes and did a quick readout of the cam deviations. "That is frustrating because in post #23 you said you could activate the solenoids on both banks and hear the idle changes. Can you activate the solenoids with Durametric now and what's the behavior?" Indeed! Before taking everything apart, I was able to activate the solenoids/actuators. The solenoids also tested out at 13.1 ohms which is the correct resistance - This is what led me to believe that the vario-cam pads were probably badly worn (which they weren't). SG - I'll have to read through that thread again...

What happened when you bench tested the solenoid+Actuator ?

I did not bench test them - I thought I had established that they were good...

So, some interesting tidbits. 1) The fault code related to the CAT (o2 sensor aftercat) has stayed away - probably from all the oil etc. burning off. Unfortunately the 1341 has returned. In addition, I have found that when I activate the vario-cam in Durametric it crashes the program! If I try to activate bank 1 - nothing happens (idle doesn't change) and the program crashes (One time I tried, I could hear the solenoid firing/switching) bank 2 - seems to activate (idle changes) but the program still crashes Being that this is a new revision - 6.5.3.6 - I wonder if it's something they did that's causing the crash? Or, if it is indeed a short/bad connection? Maybe if someone else has updated to this revision, you can try it out and let me kbnow what happens? In the meantime, I'm going to check the solenoid connections (waiting for the car to cool down...) although I'm pretty sure I was meticulous about them

"Just for ****s and giggles I did a HARD RESET of the DME,ie disconnected the the positive battery cable and touched it to the negative side (grounding the positive to deplete all capacitors).This cured the problem evidently the DME had LEARNED some bad data that it would not turn lose of." Hmmm...Any validity to ^this^? Posted on Renntech by "Porschetech3"... It could be worth a try before tearing back into everything...

The conclusion of that and similar discussions seems ambivalent. Theory says "No", experience says "Yes". So we are back to the Hippocratic - First Do No Harm and accept we may be unable to explain the cause of the result. Try it if Durametric shows no cause for your codes.

SG - seems crazy that Durametric keeps crashing when I activate the vario-cams... I suppose this could point to a short somewhere, but maybe a glitch in the latest revision...Or maybe DME/ECU. I'd still prefer to try the reset before opening up the DME/ECU though.

Maybe call Durametric ? Your situation points to the usefulness of the cross over test harness mentioned previously. Or use a noid light or DMM at the Variocam harness connector and run the engine to 3k rpm.

"Your situation points to the usefulness of the cross over test harness mentioned previously. Or use a noid light or DMM at the Variocam harness connector and run the engine to 3k rpm." Did you actually make the "crossover harness"? If so, I could use the part #'s for the connectors if you've got them. I found the part number on the "coil driver" if it turns out to be that in the DME.

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This was covered in the Renntech Thread.I made a dedicated harness for every test I modified Bosch EV1 connectors.Not straightforward- think dentistry !. Remember to preserve and mark the polarity of the test-harness connector and the car.I used a dedicated DMM with single purpose harness for each test except the cross-over Bank 1-to-Bank 2 harness.

Did you try downgrading it to an older version of Durametric if possible? Can it activate other things such as the SAI pump w/o crashing?

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I haven't tried it yet, but it definitely on "the list of things to try"...I've been pressed for time, so I haven't been able to "go deep" yet... maybe on Sunday

So, I made it up to the shop last night but was seriously pressed for time. I brought my laptop and was planning on updating/backdating Durametric, but couldn't get a internet connection . Fortunately, I was able to run a few checks - one of which crashed the program (Litronic light activations). I think there may be a problem with Durametric due to me not uninstalling before updating the program. Anyway, I'll get to that today and maybe/hopefully get back to the car tomorrow. One nice little thing I got done was zip tying the Clutch pedal "start enable" switch seen here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=702-00 This switch locks the ignition out unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Zip tying the switch "closed" (or jumping the lugs/wires) allows you to start the car without engaging the clutch - which is really bad for the crankshaft end shims - especially if the car sits a lot (= dry shims). The funny part about this "nanny/safety feature" is that it's only present in the American cars... ***Do this mod at your own risk and always make sure your car is in neutral before starting - especially if you leave it in gear while parked*** apparently Europeans are able to handle this responsibility...

d: Any update on the car situation? Enquiring minds want to know.

Nothing yet... I've actually spent about two hours getting the shop cleaned up and all tools cleaned and put back in their proper places. In addition, my son and I got his '87 944S out of the garage as well the other night. This Thursday - Sunday I'm booked 5 nights in a row (closet R&R musician) so I won't see any shop time 'til sometime next week. In the meantime, I've uninstalled and reinstalled Durametric on my laptop so hopefully that will run without crashing, and I can get back to diagnosing the bank 1 Vario-cam actuator/solenoid.

WELL...??

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Nope... I've been swamped the last couple weeks. It's kind of a pain because I have to pull the wheel off, pull the wheel liner out just to access that area/those plugs. I just haven't had a large enough block of time to get things figured out.

Ok. No pressure just curious and hopeful...

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Me too!!!

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Quick update - while driving the car today, my CEL went out. Last weekend, I popped the DME/ECU out and checked the board. I didn't find anything obvious (burnt components or connections) so I put it back together and buttoned everything back up. I drove the car a little bit - probably 25 - 30 mi. and it ran fine - as it has since I've done the work - but the light remained on. Today, shortly after I took it for a drive the CEL went out... I'm wondering if it is the drive cycle since unplugging and replugging the DME (approximately 60-80 mi.)? I plan on plugging in the Durametric in a little while... will update after...

Quotes source post: 14415045

Do you mean that the CEL was still on even after you had removed the DME and opened it up? Would the CEL not go off and the code clear ? Did you attempt to clear the code after you reinstalled the DME? Normaly it takes 2 drives with a fault code for it to illuminate the CEL. and it takes 20 drive cycles with NO fault for the DME to self-clear a code !! Did you do a HARD RESET of the DME? Seems like this is shaping up to be one of those weird problems.

"Seems like this is shaping up to be one of those weird problems." You're telling me! Granted, it's partially my work style that tends to confuse things - I rarely get large enough blocks of time to do things in a linear/scientific/controlled way. So after my last post I went back out and started the car (it was still warm) and plugged in the Durametric (which has since been uninstalled, updated and reinstalled). Wow...everything seems to be working well - I can activate the vario-cams without the computer crashing and better yet, THEY'RE WORKING! Unfortunately, at this point I can only guess as to why. It's possible that they were working all along, and the Durametric program was messed up (and uninstallation/re-installation fixed it), or that there might have been a blockage in the bank 1 actuator that has cleared itself, or removing and re-installing the DME cleaned a funky connection...

I said this before, but.. WOO HOO!

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Yeah...I'm not getting my hopes up too soon, but we'll see.

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Sorry, I didn't really answer you questions in my last reply... Yes - CEL was still on after removing/replacing DME I didn't go back in and clear the code after replacing the DME I drove the car at least 3 times last week after re-installing the DME I did not do a "hard reset" of the DME... Weird indeed!!! (Cue the Twilight Zone music)

Congratulations!

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or the DME had some bad data that finally got deleted after removing ,opening, and reinstalling the DME !!

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Yeah, yeah... ^that^ too!!!😆 In which case, that "hard reset" may have worked after all! I suppose what I did was essentially a hard reset... we'll see what the future holds. Oh and btw...

Keeping the old fingers crossed that the hard reset solved the issue.

If it was the " Hard Reset " that fixed the problem, this is an important lesson for us. When hard reset was discussed elsewhere, some ppl dismissed it as an ineffective fix. If it is (in this case anyway) a fix and it could do no harm to try it, that is huge. The alternative is often a major fishing expedition into the bowels of the engine or an exchange DME. Neither of which may have been necessary? The hard reset is fast, cheap and if it can do no harm, it should be the first 'treatment' , not the last ? Thanks for sharing your experience.

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^Yes^... As I mentioned in my last post, the "hard reset" wasn't really my intention, but in effect, it's exactly what I did... Time will tell whether it was actually effective. In a case like mine where I just had the engine out of the car and in pieces, I'm certainly glad I decided to open up the DME before dropping the motor and opening it up again.

For those who follow I guess we should define what hard reset means in your case. 1.Battery disconnected from the car/DME /engine for several days. or 2. Battery terminals disconnected from both posts of the battery and +ve+ -ve terminals connected together for at least 10 minutes.To discharge capacitive charges. or 3. Other methods? And then there is the Initialization Procedure to follow and the Readiness Process

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Uh... yeah... I didn't do any of the "smart stuff"! I pulled the foam cover off where the DME is located, unclipped all the electrical connections (4 or 5 plugs), brought the DME into my studio (where I do my electronics work) opened it up, examined it - didn't find anything awry or out of the ordinary, put it back together, and reconnected/reinstalled. Upon starting the car, the CEL was still present. I didn't have the time to hook up the durametric and mess with it, but I did drive the car 60-80mi. over the next 2 days. The car was parked for the following 3 or 4 days until I drove it on Sunday and noticed the CEL had gone out (It was on when I first started it). I'm sorry I'm not able to properly document my process, but that's because it wasn't really a process

A useful accidental discovery - thanks for sharing with us.

One thing to remember , or to ponder on is that the OBDII LEV version of this engine uses data from both banks of cam sensors to evaluate the operation of cam timing, the ROW version only reads the bank 1 cam sensor to decide if cam function is working and timing is correct. The ROW versions do not have a cam sensor on the bank 2 side, I assume they read bank 1 sensor and just activate both sides at the same time, who knows what internal programming and communication goes on in there and what programming is common to both OBDII LEV versions and ROW versions of the software. USA OBDII LEV engines can be flashed to ROW specs ,but ROW version engines can not be flashed to OBDII LEV specs. From Porsche Training Manual p-21 Engine Management

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^^I think I'll wait to see if the CEL comes back before I ponder anything remotely like that^^ It just may save my head from exploding !!! Hopefully I won't have any issues before my next oil change, which I've been doing at 4k miles - should be around late fall. If anything else comes up, I'll be sure to revive the thread... Big thanks for all the interest, encouragement and help I've received throughout this project - this forum (and it's members) is a great rescource for the DIY community.

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I honestly think you're good to go !! With the CEL turning its self off is a great sign ! That means that the DME through OBD II self diagnostics has done enough tests ( which is a very large number, usually20) that it is satisfied that there is no more fault or intermittent faults with the system !! Which is quite a rarity on a problem such as this.

"I honestly think you're good to go !! With the CEL turning its self off is a great sign ! That means that the DME through OBD II self diagnostics has done enough tests ( which is a very large number, usually20) that it is satisfied that there is no more fault or intermittent faults with the system !! Which is quite a rarity on a problem such as this." I honestly hope you're right! Thanks again for your help and encouragement

Just thought I'd share that after my "heart stopper" thread. Everything is back in order and the CEL remains out !

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Yea I'm glad you updated us on this, I commented on your "heart stopper" thread and asked about the CEL, but you apparently missed it, and I didn't want to push encase your were ducking the Porsche Gods and didn't want them to see you bragging..lol Looks like your accidental Hard Reset did the trick !! I have only had this fix a few such problems over the decades, but when it does, it's AMAZING !! The one I had that was just like yours was about 6 years ago.The same code started when an engine was improperly timed (grossly out of time)( luckily no valves were bent) came flat bedded into the shop. IT was correctly timed and restarted and the CEL came on with the second road test. Cam timing was recheck and tests began. After wiring and continuity tests were passed and actual values verified, the complete cam actuator with solenoid was replaced with known good unit, the cam sensor was replaced with a known good unit.Multiple road tests in between. Having no other tests that have not been done, no other ideas of what could be causing this except something wrong with the DME, I did the Hard Reset and voila' !! The problem was gone !! Happy motoring !!

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Ha! I was so focused on getting the cam covers sealed properly that I just spaced on the CEL question. When I realized that I had failed to respond to your question, I figured I'd resurrect this thread as it was more related to this than my cam-cap troubles! I drove the car over 200 miles in the last 3 days (took it for some PDR to fix some hail damage - came out beautiful) and it's running and driving fantastic! Thanks once again for your input - super helpful

Came here from another thread - tagged for the content.