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YOUR RESEARCHManual tranny fluid change - couple questions
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Suggestion
It has a sealing washer and mine came off clean even after 15yrs, so wouldn't overthink it.
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Suggestion
No need for tape on threads and I believe the torques required are not much on both fill & drain plugs.
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Suggestion
They should be around ~20 ft-lb for fill & ~25 ft-lb for drain but others can chime in as well.
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Suggestion
One thing is the fill spec is 10mm BELOW the fill plug hole.
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Suggestion
Maybe I�m strange, but I would start the car and drive it around the block after you change the fluid to make sure all the oil has circulated and that everything shifts the way it should.
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Planning on changing tranny fluid on a 2003 manual. Already checked that fill and drain plugs are not seized. I will using Porsche gear oil. I have a couple of questions.
1. Historically on other car seat that I have owned I have put Teflon tape on drain plugs. Good practice on this transmission? I do it to make it easier to remove in future.
2. Here is the dumb question. The car will not be started until Late March or Early April. Car is on my lift. Will drain and fill now. Shouldn�t be problem, right?
thanks!
I don't think it's necessary to put tape on plug bolt. It has a sealing washer and mine came off clean even after 15yrs, so wouldn't overthink it. As far as changing and storing, again, I see no reason to be concerned. Its not that you are flushing everything out with solvent. The oil film on parts above oil level will be the same post change and pre-change, if that is what you are concerned with.
That is what I figured. I couldn�t come up with a reason why not to do it now. I won�t use Teflon tape. Just have to look up the torque values for the plugs.
No need for tape on threads and I believe the torques required are not much on both fill & drain plugs. They should be around ~20 ft-lb for fill & ~25 ft-lb for drain but others can chime in as well. Mine never leaked at those torque values. Good luck, cheers.
2nd. No tape on the threads, and no need for more than the correct torque value which is 25 N-m or 18 lb-ft. There is a good article here:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...sion_Fluid.htm
The main thing to keep in mind is the car needs to be level when you're doing this. If you do it on ramps, jackstands on a sloped garage floor, etc., the level measurement may not be accurate since the car will be tilted.
The only problem I see is that you won't get QUITE as much of the old oil out as if you ran the car a little bit first and warmed it up. If it's going to be sitting for a long time anyway, you might just let it drain for many hours, or a whole day. The fluid is very thick and will keep dripping out for a long time when cold. Just depends how obsessive you are and how much of the old fluid you want to get out.
One thing is the fill spec is 10mm BELOW the fill plug hole. It requires a homemade dipstick of sorts to be made to measure this level. Many people just fill to the fill plug hole untill it drips out. To my knowledge this hasn't caused any issues with leaks or otherwise.
Maybe I�m strange, but I would start the car and drive it around the block after you change the fluid to make sure all the oil has circulated and that everything shifts the way it should. That way you know everything is good to go.
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