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YOUR RESEARCH996 major maintenance now complete. DIY right of passage!
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first "major" wrenching project i ever attempted
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It was the first "major" wrenching project I ever attempted.
996 major maintenance now complete. DIY right of passage!
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Leading evidence: 'first "major" wrenching project i ever attempted' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'first "major" wrenching project i ever attempted' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check circlip groove' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I ended up having to disconnect the line to get mine in, then bleed it.
996 major maintenance now complete. DIY right of passage!
Use 1/4" universal joint and extension, and was able
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
To get the rear AC compressor bolt out to access the tensioner, I used a 1/4" universal joint and extension, and was able to get it reasonably easily.
996 major maintenance now complete. DIY right of passage!
Check circlip groove
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Suggestion · Original poster
The instructions say check the circlip groove for debris after installation, so watch for it!
996 major maintenance now complete. DIY right of passage!
Clean low miles
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Suggestion
Your motor and transmission are incredibly clean - low miles?
996 major maintenance now complete. DIY right of passage!
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My 996 is running again after being on the hoist since Dec! What a job, tough at times but rewardiing as hell. This is what I completed:
Clutch
IMS Solution
RMS
AOS
Coolant reservoir
Water pump
160 deg themostat
Coils/plugs
Little coolant line connector by alternator
Breather fitting on passenger side bank (leaking oil)
Transmission oil change
Trans mount
Whew! A big thanks to Charles Navarro who answered by help tickets almost immediately whenever I had a question. Also all the other members of this forum that did writeups that helped me along the way. Couple points for anyone doing this at home:
Bolt in the clutch slave BEFORE you start putting the transmission shaft into the clutch disk splines on reassembly. I ended up having to disconnect the line to get mine in, then bleed it.
To get the rear AC compressor bolt out to access the tensioner, I used a 1/4" universal joint and extension, and was able to get it reasonably easily. I know some say that tensioner doesn't have to come out, but I followed Jake's instructions to the letter.
Whe you drive in the plug and IMS bearing, watch for small metal schards from the interference fit. The instructions say check the circlip groove for debris after installation, so watch for it!
With the transmission out, the one AOS bolt is still pretty much impossible to get at. Ended up dropping my engine down to remove it, instead of removing the intake.
Water pump with 75,000 miles had play in it and impeller migration.
Here are some randon pics
Congrats on all the work! I just finish an IMS Solution installation last weekend so I know how much work goes into this.
After trying unsuccessfully a few times, I also disconnected the line. I should have said myself the trouble and did that first. I am still sore.
I purchased a new tensioner for that spot, but decided to leave it in place after seeing what it was going to take to remove it. You deserve some extra credit for it.
I am sure you have a great sense of satisfaction. I plan on doing many if the same maintenance items this year. I think I may have a small leak from the coolant reservoir, so I may have to jump on that soon, before the other mechanical items.
If you aren't dropping the transmission, do the coolant tank and AOS at the same time. You will have to pull one side the intake to get the AOS out, when that is off the coolant tank will slip right out. When I had the engine lowered the coolant tank was a 20 min job. Toughest part about the coolant tank is getting enough clearance to get it out of the track .
Doing everything you listed - really a great experience- I noticed my seals on cover flange leaked both sides -did you replace those? Any tips if you did- thx
Do you mean the cam covers? Mine weren't leaking at all so I didn't have to touch them.
IMSB came out easy peasy. Driving the Solution bearing in took a bit more coaxing. Feels great to have it all done. My single row bearing was still in pretty good shape, seals were compromised and had some oil in it . IMS shaft was full of oil .
Nice job! You're fortunate to have a lift to work with. Your motor and transmission are incredibly clean - low miles? Non-DD? In any case, you should be good to go for a loooooong time now - good luck
Here is the tool I made for the RMS replacement. A 3" abs pipe cap with 4 holes drilled in it. Then I put spacers in the inside that only allowed the 13 mm depth. Worked pretty well
was installing the ims solution different than the ims pro kit? i understand the notch on the block but anythings else?
reason i ask is cause i asked for a quote on ims solution vs ims pro and they said it required some extra steps..
i would love to install my self but dont have the garage space or a lift..
Thanks. The leak is so small at this point, I may wait until I drop the engine since it will be a bit of a pain with the engine in. I will definitely be replacing the AOS.
Nice. I definitely consider the AOS a right of passage. It was the first "major" wrenching project I ever attempted. I enjoyed it so much that I've been coming up with excuses to work on these cars ever since. They just present so many interesting problems to solve.
I found out while doing the job that the AOS is different from 996.1 to 996.2. The 996.1 its much easier to get out with the transmission removed as the AOS bolts are in a different location. On the 996.2 they are on top of the flange where it goes into the block, and just a crazy hard spot to get to.
Sober Owl: Compared to just replacing the bearing, the Solution requires notching the block, installing the oil feed line, and the oil filter adaptor. A shop will probably charge a couple more hours for that.
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