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YOUR RESEARCH996 starts then dies!
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Check voltage
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
My indie didn't manage to fix the voltage dropping to 12v on the dial, he checked voltage on battery which was apparently fine.
Leading evidence: 'Check voltage' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Hi, om new to porsche and rennlist.
I've tried searching the forum, but could only find one thread wich didn't give me the answer I needed. I've just bought my first porsche, a 911 c4 tip my98 with 91000km on the meter. It had the big maintenance done 2012 at 80000km, replacing the spark plugs included.
I've got two problems:
1: the Psm and abs light come on at the same time when braking and won't come off until restarting the car. Until I do the brake lights are continuously on. Porsche service center found error codes 1130 and 1128. I've come to the conclusion that this is symptomatic for the brake pedal switch.
2: today I noticed that the car starts fine but when the motor goes to idle sometimes it just dies. The battery is fairly new but the spark plugs are old time wise, but have only been in the Car for 10000km. Any ideas what this could be? I know there's another thread here but I couldn't seem to deduct what's going on with my car from this thread. Any help would be appreciated as I'm a newbie. I'm taking it in for minor maintenance and replacing the ims and brake pedal switch while I'm at it.
Answers appreciated! And also, don't be to hard on me if I'm doing this the wrong way, first time in a forum!
Regards
Carl
Does the car have any seller's warranty that you can use to get these issues looked into/addressed?
Are the 1128 and 1130 error codes OBD2 P1128 and P1130 codes?
If so and with the PSM/ABS warning lights and the engine dying the problem could be a MAF. But don't replace the MAF on my WAG.
You should require more before throwing parts at the behavior.
Unless you are prepared to delve into trying to trouble shoot a possible MAF (or other) problem my advice is now is the time to search out a highly qualified/experienced shop that knows these "modern" water cooled 996's inside and out and have these issues looked into.
Clean your MAF sensor first with MAF Cleaner, then clear codes and see if they come back. Run some Techron in the gas.
p1128 corresponds to: "Long Term Fuel Trim B1 System Too Lean" which means that the car thinks it's running leaner than it should be.
p1130 corresponds to: "Air/Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)" which basically means the same as the p1128.
Both codes basically point to the MAF sensor. If that is correct for the codes you gave 1128 and 1130.
Also could be caused by an intake system leak. How does the car run?
Thank you for the quick reply!
I bought it from a private seller, so no warranty. Yes it's supposed to be with a p ahead of the number codes, diagnosed by OPC last week. I'm taking it to an independent porsche specialist first thing next week! I'm going to ask them to check out the the MAF! I guess MAF is the mass air flow sensor?
Thank you for the reply!
Thank you for the reply!
The car runs smooth as a ***** cat. No misfires or anything the like! I've only tried taking up to 100-110 mp/h, no temperature change/warning lights coming on
I believe the issue with the ABS/PSM/brake lights staying lit is a switch on the brake pedal.
See this Renntech post:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...h-replacement/
I suspect the MAF and the brake switch would take care of all these issues, though lumpy idle or dying at idle can also indicate a vacuum leak. Unplug the MAF and see if the lumpy idle disappears.
You might also have a failed air/oil separator - that can also be the cause of the poor quality idle. Try to remove the oil filler cap while the car is idling. If it's impossible or nearly impossible, you probably need a new air/oil separator.
If you have any friends with a 986 or 996 that's running well, you could ask nicely to borrow their MAF for a couple of hours...
I just realized what the MAF sensor translates to in Swedish, I took it apart and the was dirt all over the connectors, cleaned it with MAF cleaner. That didn't seem to do the trick though!
So do you guys think the MAF sensor could explain all the symptoms of do I need to replace the brake pedal switch as well?
The MAF sensor is incredibly delicate - if you disassembled the sensor...
No, you must have just cleaned the connector, right?
When the MAF is removed from the intake tube/airbox tube, you can clean it with MAF/electronics cleaner - but don't get all touchy with a rag and solvents.
See my MAF replacement DIY - it has some ideas on how to get the correct MAF sensor for much less than you'll pay at the Porsche parts counter.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-1998...k1-996-c4.html
(I think you need to be a member to see the DIY's. If so, the short version is to go to the Bosch site and get the part number you need, then go to Amazon and order it).
Clean the other end, the one that hangs in the airflow. The screws are security screws that have a pin in the center. You need a bit with a hole in it to take them out. A Torx T20 security driver.
What volts show on the volt meter on the left of the dashboard? Below 13 is too low and indicative of a bad y cable, battery or alternator.
A lot of people on here do suggest cleaning the MAF but I've been told by an Indy and at least one other rennlister not to clean it.
For your check engine light you need to change your regeneration valve from the throttle body,also I had a real problem, the car will crank but will not start,and that was my fuel pump I had to change with the crankshaft position sensor .
The codes will point to you O2 sensor bank 1 and bank 2, which is basicially your regeneration valve from the throttle body,which will cost about $120,dollars, and that will solve your problem.
Does it drop below 13? Google or search on this forum about 996 alternator y cable and proper voltage. Below 13 with head lights and AC on is low and an issue. Ahsai has great write ups about this and how to diagnose alternator vs y cable vs battery being the issue. Just went through this myself.
Cheers! As randy pointed out I posted this in the wrong section. But I reposted it here-->
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...then-dies.html
Seems like maf and brake pedal switch are most favored parts to be blamed for failing according to advice in my reposted thread!
I'll look in to the battery as well!
Definitely search around for alternator y cable threads on here and elsewhere. The cable goes bad and as the car gets hot, volts drop as a result of less conductivity and symptoms come about. The cable is cheap, $60 ish, but takes time to replace. Ahsais write up and diagram gives a definitive yes or no about whether you have alternator or cable issue.
I'm familiar with hard start issues (starter and starter cable) when the car is hot. I was not aware that starting and then dying was a symptom of the alternator cable issue...
Ill check that out as well, but when I see all of your replies Im leaning towards just asking the mechanic where Im doing the ims and minor maintenance to check that out as well!! I put away equally what I paid for the car as an economic buffert. Just to make sure! Glad I did that!!
I just wanted to think you to all the senior members who got involved in the issues with my 996! Especially since I'm such a noob when it comes to forums and all things Porsche!!
Thank you!
So i just wanted to keep you guys posted. Just picked up my car from the indie Porsche service center. Change the ims, brake pedal switch and the Ac cooling elements in the front which had started to leak. The warning lights hasn't come on since. The maf apparently was fine. Since the car has only started and then died twice I'm not worrying about that issue too much.
The ims bearing though was about to fail according to the mechanic and wouldn't have lasted more than 10000km before motor failure would have ensued. I kept the bearing and there was small metal shards in the filter but the engine completely unharmed. I checked out the ims and there was a lot of play in the bearing. Took some pictures and a video. But I can't seem to upload them through the app.
I dodged a bullet by changing the ims!!!!!!
He seemed sure. There were just some shards in the filter and the bearing. I hope he has done the job right. I feel I can't do much more than trusting the mechanic!?
Hey Carl, not trying to be a "debbie downer", but IMHO, you may have dodged a bullet, but the deadly bomb may go off in the near future if the engine wasn't completely opened and cleaned of all loose metal particles. It's not uncommon for mechanics to replace the IMS, tell the owner, "Hey, we caught it just in time!", and the engine still experience catastrophic failure within short period of time. This is commonly due to loose metal particles from the previous IMS tearing up the engine that weren't properly removed. Please upload a picture of the filter and the damaged IMS when you have a minute. We could all learn from what you show us. Thanks!
i am sure you are in good hands. I was just curious as you hear alot about whether or not the mechanic dropped the pan and looked, etc to verify no collateral damage from that metal...more qualifying the motor before installing IMS.
Drive it like you stole it and enjoy!
I'm sure there could still be particles left in the motor if I'm unfortunate. But I'm quite worn out by wondering about when the motor is going to "explode" (there has been sleepless nights thinking about the ims!)
As requested I'll upload some pictures. The metal is more like metal dust than shards. Tried uploading a video showing how loose the ims was.
So I need one of the LN engineering magnetic drain plugs from pelican parts? Only one?
The one part that's called:
Billet Aluminum Hard Anodized Magnetic Drain Plug, Upgraded version (18 X 1.5 mm), Brand: LN Engineering
Yes. Just one. It will replace your drain plug. It will trap any metal so you can better monitor it. Some would also recommend the LN full flow oil filter so no metal ever gets past.
With an abundance of caution, is a set of 3 curved of neodymium magnets on the filter casing also prudent ?
A more conservative option -for those who already have the LN filter upgrade, this may work ?
https://www.amazon.com/FilterMAG-SS3...0B8MCTCZKTFWQB
So the abs and psm lights got lit again today while braking, looked at the receipt. Apparently the brake pedal switch didn't get changed!
Really annoying!
And the engine died after switching on at one time today. Initially the revs rise as they should, but then idles too low and dies. at startup the battery stays at 12 volts and after a while rises to somewhere in between 13-14 volts.
According to the mechanic the maf is fine, but i don't think he actually took it out to clean it.
I should from now on refer to my car as "the money pit"
So was out driving yesterday. When the revs drop, that is when braking the voltage drops down to 12V and the front headlights flicker. This is also when I get the ABS and PSM warning lights. Checked out the brake lights and they seemed to be fine even though the abs and PSM was lit. Im now leaning towards alternator Cable or battery. Going to ask the mechanic to check out the maf sensor and replace the brake pedal swithc as well.
Ill keep you guys posted.
Ditto that remark!
Basically, it works like this... (slightly embellished)
You get a weird sound and a MIL service light illuminates.
Owner gasps and feels a strong pain in the chest similar to cardiac arrest.
Owner tows it to a indy service center.
Owner, "Yes hello, my 996 has a weird noise and the MIL light comes on"
Service Manager, "uh oh, we'd better take a look at it to see what's the problem"
Owner, "That sounds serious"
two days later the phone rings...
Service Manager, "Yes, just finished looking at the oil and filter, I'm afraid you have metal in your filter and you'll need to replace the engine."
Owner, (gulp!) "Can I see the filter? How much is that going to cost???"
Service Manager, "Umm, I think BillyBob threw it in the trash and so you'll have to trust us on this one... it's really bad new... you're looking at about $20,000 for a new engine installed"
Owner, (dead silence) then... [sound of a body falling to the floor]
Service Manager, "Hello? You okay"
Owner, "Oh sorry, I just fainted, I'm ok, but I don't think I can afford it"
Service Manager, "Oh, that's too bad, well I can offer you $5000 for it to save you the trouble"
Owner, "Umm, I rather take my chances and sell it outright. I think it's worth at least $10,000"
Service Manager, "Ok, I do this for you. Let me send you information and your price to a few people that would be interested in a car in this condition, would that work for you?
Owner, "Awww, that's so kind of you. I'll also list it on Rennlist to see anyone is interested"
Service Manager, "Ok, good luck... Also, no problem keeping the car here in the meantime"
Owner, "That's really nice of you!"
week later...
Owner calls service manager...
Owner, "Yes, I have a man that goes by Slakker on Rennlist that is interested in purchasing the car, but would like for you to do a more thorough PPI before he purchases the car"
Service Manager, "Yes, we're aware of this person. He just called and talked to our business manager and gave us his credit card information. Sounds like he's serious"
Owner, "Yep, but he's kind of strange. He sent me a shirtless picture of him in front of a '99 silver 996, but I guess his money is as green as any other. Ha! But I'm not sure I want to fool with someone that far away."
Service Manager, "Well, here the deal, my mechanic said he'd take it off your back for the $10,000 and as a bonus, he'd rub your feet once a week. He likes feet for some reason"
Owner, "Foot rubs? Awesome! He's got a deal! I'll alert this shirtless man from Rennlist that I went with another buyer"
Service Manager, "Super, I'll let him know it's a deal."
One week later it shows up on eBay for $25,000.
No. Battery, alternator, voltage regulator on alternator is not normal. You should start with checking the battery, then alternator output. Check for good clean connections on the battery and battery ground. Check the engine ground strap for corrosion.
Yes, and no. The P1128/P1130 means the fuel/air mixture is to lean both banks. Check and clean MAF. Check for vacuum leaks. Check oil filter filler cap is on tight and that the oil filler pipe is not cracked. Make sure the clamps are tight on the intake system. I would solve your low voltage problem first, then erase the codes and see if they come back.
I'll try checking out the oil cap/pipe/maf and take it to an indie for the battery, alternator cable and alternator (change the brake light switch while I'm at it. Hopefully that'll sort it!
12v is too low. Could be one of the many things mentioned already - the culprit on mine was the alrernator y cable. Cheap part but takes a while to replace. Good luck. If you haven't read Ahsais write up about diagnosing this, let us know
Actually, it's this one. Let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47504-troubleshooting-low-voltage-and-charging-issues/#comment-260718
So, changed brake pedal switch and cleaned maf. No more psm and abs lights flashing. Voltage still drops to 12 just after starting up the engine, then it idles too low and dies occasionally. My indie didn't manage to fix the voltage dropping to 12v on the dial, he checked voltage on battery which was apparently fine. Don't think he took a look the y-cable/ground cable and the rest of the cables even though I asked him since "the voltage is supposed to drop like that when idling". *sigh*
Tried to use my multimeter to do ahsais voltage tests, but didn't know how find to the backside of the alternator and didn't have the guts to poke around with the engine on...
All you need is a stiff INSULATED wire like this
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...comment=241245
made from this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-50...5BVG/203894420
or equivalent.
Edit: just noticed you're in Sweden. I'm sure they have something similar there.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
