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YOUR RESEARCHNew pro LN Tool IMS
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First thanks for the reply - do I only need one cam set locked down to do the IMS removal?
Leading evidence: 'Set locked down' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Set locked down' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Just received IMS pro too from Pelican parts
I am TDC but the cam lock down is to thick for cam in front of engine- Rear cam lock fits fine and is tapered - confused
In my kit from LN there are two different can locks, one is tapered. Off the top of my head, I believe they are for different engines, maybe 3 chain versus 5 chain?
On my 3.6 I locked the intake and exhaust on the flywheel side and locked the intake cam on the crank pulley side. The tool that locks both the intake and exhaust would not fit on the crank pulley side. Maybe I had #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke...
On my flywheel side mine is locked down - the front ( front of motor) tool is to thick to fit in cam slot -and it is 2 mm thicker than rear cam lock tool which fits the 13 mm bolt hole- my iPad will not load pictures on GT site
I have limited experience, but on my 2000 996, I locked the crank with the pin through the pulley and only locked down the pulley side camshafrs (toward rear of the car).
The shorter of the two cam locks is for the 5-chain engine. The longer one is for the 3-chain engine.
The Bentley video shows a modified cam lock for the 3 chain engine to allow you to lock both cams, but this is certainly optional and not part of the procedure we developed.
Charles
First thanks for the reply - do I only need one cam set locked down to do the IMS removal?
Second do I relieve both tensioning bolts for each head to proceed with removal- thank you sir
The tensioner under the a/c compressor may not need to be removed. Has to do with cam timing deviation and wear. If your timing is close to perfect, you probably won't need to pull that tensioner. If it's off by a few degrees and the IMS isn't quite centered, then you will need to pull that tensioner to be able to reinstall the ims flange.
