GT3 or RoW M030 alignment?

Which is the better or preferred alignment specs for the RoW M030 suspension? Pros/cons to each? It's a street car with a few DEs per summer. I've seen some do the GT3 alignment with this setup, hence my question.

X74 is likely the frugal way to go as a compromise check with Gert, at Carnewal

It's personal preference, but after having a very aggressive alignment with my PSS10s, I went with the more tame GT3 dealer specs and am very happy with the results. It's slightly more aggressive than the standard specs, but still tracks the road true and straight and corners better. I don't believe the RoW specs are any different than stock. Without the standard alignment and GT3 side by side, I would be hard pressed to "see" the difference. Side by side, you would notice a difference, but remember these are Porsche specs, not a race shop. I can give you the specs of mine if you're interested in querying your dealer or alignment shop.

I had the RoWM030 installed a couple of years ago. The installer did a X74 alignment and the car absolutely ATE a set of new tires in 7000 miles. It handled well but it wasn't worth the added cost of rubber IMHO.

Since you can't adjust your ride height, are you asking if running GT3 camber settings are preferred? GT3 factory settings are -1 in front, almost -2 in back; 996 is just about 0 in front for RoW sport, -1 in back. I would say it depends on how many miles do you drive on the street per year. If you drive just 1000 miles on the street, and do 3 DE's per year, I'd set it up as aggressive as you can to save your tires because the DE will wear them out fast. If you drive 15000mi per year, then I'd set it to RoW Sport settings, and if your alignment guy will oblige, set the front to the max negative camber possible, and mark the positions. Then have the front aligned for usual street settings (which is 0 degrees) with regards to camber, and mark those positions on the strut tower in the front trunk. For the few times you go to a DE, you can change the front camber settings to favor the most negative camber possible to save the outsides of the front tires which get worn out really fast on track if you don't have much - your car will also handle better. If you drive a lot on the street, I'd recommend running stock rear settings for camber (about 1 degree negative) unless you don't mind eating through the inner tread of expensive tires. Again, if you don't drive much, then increase the rear negative camber slightly as well... all depends on how much your car sees the street!

GT3 is a lighter car so I wonder if it would be the wrong approach to keep the car planted in turns. It's not actually what's up simply tooling around but how the car is holding it turns. Power and weight transfered to the wheels I have to figure are way different between the two models. If you strip the weight down and power up to GT3 then yah GT3. Anything else just go with tried and proven for sporting or cruise for your model and suspension. Of course you have the right to be sold on any idea there is out there

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About 10k street miles per year and 4-6 DE days at Mid-Ohio.

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How about the front toe in? If you change the camber from 0 to -1, how much does the toe in change?

go for the more aggressive and watch the tires...if you wear the edge too much TURN MORE !!! I think going ROW is too minimalistic, X73/4 better

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wow - now that's good data to have. thanks!

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More cowbell is best! The tires are a consumable. I buy a rear set of Sumi's every year. My set for this year just showed up. The fronts are good for another season. If I were running the high $$$ tires I would have the alignment set to the Buick Roadmaster specs.

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you cant go wrong with more cowbell...everytime, all the time (turns out more isnt that much more but offer so much more)

Buick Roadmaster.... FTW!! Last year I put 4 new Hankooks on my C4S...Aug 4th actually. My alignment setup was pretty aggressive I guess because by early Nov, when I put the winters on...the rear's were toast. 3 months However, I did about four 1000Km trips to Edmonton....straight, flat driving. The tires are worms out on the inside edge only...but they are almost at the cords. So this spring, I'm going to take out some Camber from the rear in my alignment...hopefully, I don't notice too much of a loss in handling. Which brings me to a questions!? If you install adjustable camber top plates....is it pretty easy to simply change your camber? /So could I install those plates, have a full alignment done for track...and then adjust the top plate to take out camber for the street? Everytime I do a track day, just adjust the plate back and be done with it? Probably not that simple...is it? sean

I have mine at X74 specs for the suspension I have. My rears last from end of March to end of October. Granted the they are beyond the wear bars and practically slicks. I'll do about 8 track days a Summer. My car is a DD...So me thinks you really have an aggressive spec. Last year at a DE I saw a guy with a M coupe that had adjustable camber plates. He jacked up the front end loosened the strut mounts and push/pull'd his wheels to a full negative camber. He tightened it all and went out on the track. He brought the wheels back to where they were for the ride home. No instruments no science involved but it worked for him. That looked super simple and had me thinking since. Looked pretty simple.