DIY Oil Change

I know this is a very simple DIY service but doing it for the first time. I will be driving the car tomorrow morning, planning to drain as soon as I get home. Will be letting the car sit overnight before replacing plug (with new magnetic plug). My question is that since I will be using rear ramps for clearance, what is best angle to get most of the old oil out, Level, rear slightly raised or front slightly raised. May be a dumb question but why not ask. The Temp here in Nor Cal is over 100 deg this weekend so should keep oil flowing well. Thanks

Level or close to level will work well. You really don't need ramps. Just drive the rear wheels on a couple of 2x4 should be good enough.

The closer you are to level the better, but I don't think it's critical. I use Rhino ramps in the back and I get out 9.5 quarts each time. You can back the front tires over two by fours to reduce the front to back difference if you want. You don't need to let it sit overnight but that won't hurt. I usually go about 30 minutes with the oil warm. Think about getting an LNE Spin-on Oil filter adapter too. (Do some searches on this site). I recently added a Filter Mag as another bit of protection. An easy DIY. The hardest part is dealing with the used oil afterwards.

Quotes source post: 14307740

Thanks, I too have the Rhino ramps which is why I was asking the question, these ramps raise the car quite a bit. I may place some 2x6's down to raise the front a bit (it can't hurt). I have researched the Spin-on Oil Filters. I am still trying to make a decision based on ease of checking filter element with OEM filter and the advantages of Spin-on also taking into consideration that the Spin-on catches all oil. May switch next time.

I've never read anyone doing it the way I do, so I will share. I believe it is the easiest way. No ramps, only a floor jack. In my garage or on my driveway, which are both level, I use a floor jack under the cross axle to lift the rear up maybe 6 or 7 inches. Rear tires not even close to off the ground. Just the suspension raised. Now I know the "safety rangers" will cry fowl, but... ...at this level it is easy to access both the oil plug and filter. Most importantly, I can do all I need without getting any of my body under the car, just my arm. Even if the floor jack failed it would not hit me. Once I have my dip pan under both the oil filter and oil plug and the rush of oil has decreased, I lower the floor jack and let the oil drip as the car sits as it normally sits (level). Of course you have to use a drip pan that's shallow enough so the car does not crush the pan. I have one that is 7 or 8 inches high and when I lower the car the bottom of the car just about touches the pan. This way the car is level as the oil drains. If you feel you have to get any part of your body under the car doing it this way you can always just toss a jack stand underneath in case the floor jack fails. Remember the floor jack is only supporting a small amount of weight. Then after letting it drain as long as I want I raise the car back up with the floor jack and complete the oil service. Even if your car is lowered considerably, you can do it this way, you just need a shallow enough drip pan. You can test how shallow your pan has to be by sliding it under the car as it normally sits. I find most cheapo plastic pans will fit. Mine holds 16 quarts and is just shallow enough. My car is stock height. This way seems obvious, but I always read that people feel the need to use ramps. Not so. And if you use ramps the only way to get the car level is to raise the front somehow. So in summary, raise rear, insert shallow pan, drain oil/remove filter, lower car to level and let drain as long as you wish, raise car, replace plug and filter, lower car, fill oil, done.

Quotes source post: 14307804

I may try it this way, I will check my drip pan height first (at worst case I could drive all 4 tires onto 2 x 6's, probably just raise driver side rear at proper jack location, remove plug and filter, lower back down then reverse for fill. Sounds like a plan.

Quotes source post: 14307838

Sure, you can raise up the rear by using the proper jack location on one side, same idea. Won't need to lift tire off the ground, just lift suspension up enough for gaining enough access. I just happen to use the cross member with a hockey puck for padding. The idea here is to not use any ramps or 2x4's so you can lower the car back down and it will sit perfectly level as the oil drains. I'm 6'3" and have long arms, never are my head or body under the car at any time doing it this way. But as I say, for extra caution, slipping a jack stand under there while you are working is optional.

I always remove the oil cap filler to allow faster drainage of the oil. Do the change when the oil is warm. An hour should be ample. Don't forget to replace after changing oil. Cut open your old filter and check for any debris that MAY be left on it. Try to get the car level as possible as other posters have suggested. Have fun and wear rubber gloves so you do not burn your fingers when removing the oil plug.

Quotes source post: 14307724

My experience with my 2002 Boxster, my 2008 Cayman S and my 2003 Turbo is the rear of the car being on Rhino ramps won't affect the amount of oil that is drained. The important thing is to have the engine fully up to temperature. The 996 drain interval is just 20 minutes but there is I'm told an overnight drain interval. I mention this because the factory reportedly supplies two different refill amounts depending up the drain interval. The overnight drain requiring more oil to bring the engine oil level to the proper level. This is important for the oil gun the tech has at his service bay has a readout that shows how much oil has been passed through the gun so the tech adds the specified amount of oil and then confirms the digital oil level sensor reports the correct amount of oil. It is at oil change time the digital oil level sensor is "tested" to confirm it is in agreement with a known amount of oil in the engine.

Quotes source post: 14307804

I have to chime in here........NO RAMPS, NO JACK for me. Yup, no raising the azz end of the car....nothing, zip, nada I am able to create enough room under the car by simply backing out of the garage right up to the point BEFORE my driveway slopes down. And yes, the car is still level.

Quotes source post: 14307865

+1

Quotes source post: 14309114

Macster So since I do not know how much oil has drained, I plan on adding 8 qts (checking dip stick from 6 qts on). I check my oil regularly and have found that when the dip stick is at exactly the full notch, I am 1 bar down on the digital readout. for this reason and to not overfill, I keep my oil level at 1 bar below full (still checking dip stick to verify). If after 7 or 8 qts the dip stick shows full, I plan on starting the engine, letting it run a bit so as to fill filter and checking again. Does this sound about right? I should be able to do this whether I let it drain 30 minutes or several hours correct? Thanks

Finished my first oil change. was able to drain 9 1/2 qts. Best feeling was not performing the change or the $$ savings, it was being able to cut open filter and inspect. My Indy always told me that he cut it open and all was good but seeing it first hand made me feel so much better. I did not see anything in the oil, found two (2) pin head size shiny pieces (so small could not even pick out) on outer side of filter (nothing on inside), see inside of second pleat down on second photo.. I have also ordered the Blackstone Oil Analysis Kit so on next change will do that also. Sure makes you feel more one with the car. Thanks all for your comments.

I know environmentalists hate me.. but with the drain plug still out i pour in about a quarter quart to flush out more old oil.. then put the plug in.

Quotes source post: 14310711

interesting idea