2003 986 turns over but won't start.

2003 986 Boxster S, manual 6 speed 37,000 miles, turns over but won't start after driving 20 minutes and parking the car. Outside air temp 71-72F or 21-22C Like my ex, she left me stranded. Any help with the car is greatly appreciated. OK I may have left out a key bit of information. About a month ago the red led on my key began to blink even when I wasn't pressing it. I thought it meant I needed a new battery so I put in a new Duracell CR 2032 battery. The light would activate when I pushed the button with the new battery but the remote would no longer work. I went on youtube, read the owners manual and followed the procedures to re-sync the key but to no avail. OK so I just locked and unlocked the the car with the key. Then after driving it for about 20 minutes and locking the door, I unlocked the door, the engine would turn over, but would not start. I had the car towed to my home as I live about 125 miles from the closest Porsche repair facility. Today I tried to raise the top for the first time since the car wouldn't start, to get into the engine compartment. Battery is fully charged, Hand brake pulled up, ignition switch on and nothing happened when I pushed the convertible top button. I even put my feet on the brake and clutch to to make sure. Nothing. Did I somehow disable the system? Can I fix this myself?

Crank position sensor.

Bad gas?

U need air, fuel and spark for a motor to run. Just internet guess without a little of diagnostic. U need to make sure the air filter is clear, that takes care of air. U need to test fuel pressure when cold and hot. Thats the fuel. Both kind easy and cheap. Next is spark thats the hard and expensive one. It could be ignition related, plugs, coils or computer. Get a scanner, a duremetric would be better, and see if u have any codes. My educated guess from the vary limited info is gonna be fuel pump is weak and dieing when hot.

Would an OBD scanner indicate if it this issue is a crank position sensor, clutch lockout switch or MAF? I had fresh 92 Octane non ethanol fuel in the tank. Thanks.

Does the tach needle bounce a bit (like 1/8") or so when you crank?

Not the clutch lock out switch for sure since the starter still cranks. If you suspect the MAF, you can disconnect it and crank. Also do a e-gas recalibration first. Put the key in the last position before crank and leave it there for 60s. Then turn key off for 10s. Foot off the gas pedal the whole time. Also check fuses c1-c4 and e1.

How long after the drive will it eventually start? Easy things to try: -Push the gas pedal to the floor, then crank the engine. Be prepared to let off the gas pedal if it starts. -Make sure your battery ground wire is clean and secured at the chassis and at the battery. -Unplug your MAFS, then try to start. -Check for vacuum leaks Other than that, I've had a bad crank sensor and coolant temp sensor cause starting issues.

Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body and see if it fired up.

OK I may have left out a key bit of information. About a month ago the red led on my key began to blink even when I wasn't pressing it. I thought it meant I needed a new battery so I put in a new Duracell CR 2032 battery. The light would activate when I pushed the button with the new battery but the remote would no longer work. I went on youtube, read the owners manual and followed the procedures to re-sync the key but to no avail. OK so I just locked and unlocked the the car with the key. Then after driving it for about 20 minutes and locking the door, I unlocked the door, the engine would turn over, but would not start. I had the car towed to my home as I live about 125 miles from the closest Porsche repair facility. Today I tried to raise the top for the first time since the car wouldn't start, to get into the engine compartment. Battery is fully charged, Hand brake pulled up, ignition switch on and nothing happened when I pushed the convertible top button. I even put my feet on the brake and clutch to to make sure. Nothing. Did I somehow disable the system? Can I fix this myself?

Quotes source post: 16022503

Ok, first, let's rule out if the car is in immobilized state. Do you have another working keyfob that is mated to this car and if you do, then try it? The reason I ask is because the RFID "pill" in your transponder could be malfunctioning. If you don't have another working keyfob, you may need to plan for a tow to the dealership.

Quotes source post: 16022622

Thank you for your response. Unfortunately I do not have another key fob with the RFID "pill" I do, however have a key without the RFID "pill" or remote function. I tried that other key and get the same results.

Quotes source post: 16022704

Mitch, I think this may very well be the source of the problem. I've experience this kind of problem before of some of my other cars. For example, you have keys, but the remote portion doesn't work. You can unlock the door using the key hole on the driver side, but once you put the key into the ignition, the car doesn't recognize the RFID and the car will not start properly. In the past, traditional metal cut key is all we needed, right? But not with modern cars that have security features and immobilizers to help prevent the chance of your car being stolen. Here's my theory - the RFID "pill" inside your lone keyfob is probably malfunctioning. You can access the car (because it was never remotely armed) and attempt to crank the car, but the ECU refuses to start the car because the ECU doesn't recognize or "see" the RFID code. Basically, the way I understand it, the keyfob's RFID pill has an encrypted code that "handshakes" with the ECU. If it functions properly, the key is recognized by the ECU and gives the green light for proper ignition. I could be mistaken. In some situations, when the remote lock/unlock function is not working, you can still start the car if the RFID is functioning properly. You can still access the car using the metal key, but you MUST put the key in the ignition within a short time frame (20-30 secs) or else the car alarm will go off. However, in your case, you didn't lock and arm the car, correct? Regardless, you need to get the car and remotes to a dealership for reprogramming. I'm not sure if there is a work around. I recently had a problem where my remote wasn't recognized by the car. In other words, nothing worked - not the hood release nor lock or unlocking the car. It was BLIND to the car. I freaked out because I just paid Porsche $400 for that brand new keyfob remote. I took a deep breath and got into the car, put the key in the ignition, switched to first position which examines the oil level, started the car, and then turned it off again. Walked outside and tried the remote. Bingo... it worked again. In my opinion, it needed to be re-recognized by the car. I hate to say it, but you may need to tow the car to Porsche and have them reprogram new keys. I always recommend having a backup set programmed to prevent cases like what you're going through. Good luck!

Look up the fuse diagram for your 986 Boxster. On a 996 fuse panel C3 and E1 provide power to the immobilizer circuits and alarm system. Could it be as simple as a blown fuse?

Quotes source post: 16024162

^^Good advice right there!

Quotes source post: 16024162

There is also a relay, fuel related I think, if it goes bad fuel delivery stops. It's close to the fuse box under the driver side dash. Won't take long to pull some of the relays to inspect.

Quotes source post: 16024117

Much thanks I believe we are in agreement.

Mitch, Since your engine turns over I would follow the adivce of others by checking the CPS. This is easier than towing your car to a dealership. P.S. Without the transponder pill in the key fob your car won't even turn over.

Quotes source post: 16026266

OK, Today I made incremental progress. I pulled out the air filter and sprayed some instant start into the the air box. I jumped in turned the key with the accelerator pedal to the floor and got ignition for 1-2 seconds. I repeated this 2 more times. Seems like it's getting spark but no fuel. Almost a full tank of fresh non ethanol 92 octane gas in the tank. MAS? Fuel pump? Although when I turn on the ignition I can hear a slight whine in the engine compartment. I've ordered a Durametric Diagnostic Tool for Porsche with OBDII port in an attempt to isolate the issue.

Quotes source post: 16024162

Checked the fuses. They all appear to be fine.

Quotes source post: 16005245

Sorry for the late response, Yes the tach needle moves when I engage the starter as the engine is cranking. I managed to get a brief ignition, (1-2 seconds) using starting fluid. Also the engine is cold so I don't believe it is a hot engine affecting the ..... issue.

Quotes source post: 16024509

I borrowed an OBDII reader and got the trouble code P0001 I believe this means that the Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/Open. Maybe a new fuel pressre regulator?

Don't know about the fault code mentioned. Sounds like you need to remove fuel pump relay and jump pin 30 to pin 87. You should notice noise in frunk. At this point try and start engine. There isn't any fuel regulator outside of fuel tank. You can wait till your Durametric arrives as well. Under activations select final stage fuel pump. Hit start, then turn ignition to start. Or hook up a fuel gauge tester to test port on fuel rack. Not everyone has one. Arn Worxs offers one for your Boxster. Static value should be around 55#. At idle around 47#. Hope you get your car running.

Quotes source post: 16024509

I checked the relays according to the diagram in the Bentley Boxster service manual. All of the relays had black printing them except the one which is supposed to be the Fuel Relay. Does anyone know if the printing turns red when the relay goes bad?

U can borrow a fuel pressure guage for free from the parts store. It takes about 10 seconds to diagnose the fuel pump. If u hear the pump kick then its getting power and its running but that doesnt mean its delivering pressure. Sounds like the pump has failed or the regulator in the fuel sender is bad. Really not a hard job to swap out the pump assembly.

Possible ruptured in tank fuel line, this seems to be a problem on the 996, maybe same on the 986

Quotes source post: 16027615

That's a good point! I've had this exact problem. The fuel lines inside the fuel tank had deteriorated and the engine wasn't getting fuel. Basically sucking air. OP, try filling the tank completely full with gas and try again. Report back.

Quotes source post: 16027153

Getting a Durametric will definitely help, but you really should consider getting another key programmed. Just my 2 cents worth.

I had a fuel pump go on my Boxster S. Not uncommon.

Quotes source post: 16005101

^^ Gas-X ^^ works every time...

Quotes source post: 16028144

Received and plugged in the Durametric and a fuel pump relay. Swapped relays and no change. Durametric indicated the immobilizer is not engaged. The code I received indicated that there is inadequate fuel pressure at the injector rail. Because the car is an 2003 Boxster which is equipped with a non-return fuel system. Testing this system requires a Porsche System Tester and aren't covered in any manuals. The closed Porsche dealer about 125 miles away. I'm ordering a new fuel pump since it seems easy enough to replace. An earlier post in this string mentioned replacing the fuel pump but want to ensure the issue wasn't just a relay.. Once the car is running I will stop by the dealer and get a new RF for the key.remote..

I should also mention that when I turn the key to the on position there is a high pitch electronic tone coming from the engine compartment.

You can connect a mechanical gage,, you just need to add a test port if your car doesn't have one. You normally insert the T in the feed line at the injection rail, you eill need the right fittings see a hydroaulic line supply shop.. its not always about the high tech solution.. But since you ordered the pump and its Easier to change than a tire.. I'd go for it.. You should be able to hear the pump with the frunk open and an ear to the tank bulge...

Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body and see if it fires up. If it does, you'll know with 100% certainty that the engine is not getting fuel and you can start going from there.

Yep, I did spray state fluid into the intake. The car fired up so it's getting spark, just not fuel.

Quotes source post: 16005100

THIS^ If it just cranks after the car is hot and starts fine when it's cold, it's the crank position sensor.

Hot or cold, it turns over but wont start unless I spray starter fluid in the intake. Thanks for your suggestion.

Do the returnless systems have a fuel pressure regulator?

Great question. The return less system does indeed, has a pressure regulator as part of the assembly.

Quotes source post: 16028308

Yes lot's of fuel pumps dieing these days, the fuel cools the pump so don't let the fuel level get much lower that 1/4

This 2003 Boxster spent the first 15 years of its life in Palm Spring. I dont care how dry it is, 115 is hot.

Quotes source post: 16038907

This is a myth. The fuel running through the pump cools it too, they are designed to run without needing to be submerged in fuel. If they didn't they would be failing when the car is new. The car manufacturer would not allow this when the car is still under warranty. They are filing because they are 20 years old.

Yea if there is fuel pumping its submerged. The pump is located in the "canister" of the fuel pump assembly and the fuel regulator dumps the excess fuel into that canistor, thus keeping submerged.

Solved. Swapped out the fuel pump and it started right up. Kind of wished the tank wasnt full but as someone posted changing the fuel pump was easier than changing a tire.��. Thanks to everyone for your good support

See post 4, what do i get for being right . If u guys could just see me know patting myself on the back . Good it was that simple.

I thought I would end with one observation. While extracting the old fuel pump,fuel gauge assembly I noticed that one of the fuel lines from fuel pump was no longer attached to the upper assembly. I shrugged it off and thought that I might have already pulled the line off the assembly while trying to finesse it out of the tank. I didn't spent much thought on this as I was focused on the installation of the new OEM pump. Having successfully installed the new pump and completed the job I was happy that the car started up and is running fine. Later that evening I got to thinking about the old pump and the disconnected fuel line. The next morning I closely examined both fittings. They appeared to be in good working order. I then decided to put 12 volts to the old pump just to see if it was in working order. The old pump started right up when I introduced current to it. I've never heard of a fuel line disconnecting itself inside the fuel tank, but can offer no other explanation of why the engine stopped running the day the troubles began.

The pump can still run but not produce the correct pressure. It happens often in failing pumps before the quit all together. Dosent mean the loose fitting wasnt the cause either just saying your symptoms and observations r common.

Quotes source post: 16046504

Yes! That's what was happening to me. The pump was fine but the plastic fuel lines has deteriorated; thus, causing the car to run sluggish and then stall. Glad to hear you found the problem. Now, don't make matters worse. Go and get another keyfob made asap.

Quotes source post: 16044661

You definitely won this round! Congratulations! You steered him to the right direction.

I am so glad to have read this post. My car has a weird issue that I believe I have tracked down to the fuel pump. My symptoms are: 1) Intermittent hot start issues. Car cranks, catches, revs rise to ~1,000rpm on restart and then fall straight back to zero, like it is starved for fuel. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 more times to start the car with the gas peddle pressed, but once it just wouldn't restart, so I had to leave the car and try again later. 2) I have had a few instances where the car would turn over and not start at all, or take many attempts before it actually started up. 3) Many hot starts result in near stalls and the revs can hang a little low and pulse a bit until I drive it for 30 seconds or so. 4) After a long drive (couple hours) in hot weather the car starts to feel less responsive. I drove from Tennessee to Atlanta, and when I arrived the car required much more gas to rev match downshifts and even roll off a stop. These problems do not occur ever on cold starts or after short drives, but running multiple errands seems to bring out the symptoms, which means I have too much anxiety to drive the car around town with multiple stops. To tackle this, I have done the following maintenance (as recommended on this forum and by my tech): cleaned throttle body, new MAF, new o2 sensors, new fuel filter, new intake filter. I am pretty certain it is fuel related, and after reading some posts I believe it could be the fuel pump. Seems many are starting to die and it appears to be a relatively easy/cheap DIY project. I just want my car to shoot to life like it used to. Does everyone think I am on the right track? Thanks!

Yes and it takes 10 seconds to check with a fuel pressure gauge. The r free to borrow at the parts store with deposit. Just screw it into the schrader valve port on the fuel rail and note the pressures when cranking hot and cold. Its about the easiest diagnostic to perform. Also it may actually be the tube in the fuel pump canaster as others had said theirs had deterioated. Either way monitoring the pressure while cranking will tell u if u have a fuel delivery problem.

Interesting.. I know my tech checked the fuel pressure at the regulator over a period of time, but I do believe he was seeing if pressure dropped significantly after sitting for 30-60 mins and not the cranking pressure. I imagine checking the fuel pressure with the engine off and sitting would not tell you anything about the pressure when cranking, so I will look into this. Thanks!

One other thing to consider is the fuel pressure regulator. If it is stuck open or faulty, and is heat soaked after the engine is hot, all the fuel will bleed back to the tank.

I believe that is what my tech checked. He actually ended up leaving the gauge on overnight and confirmed it never lost pressure, so I believe that means it did not leak back. If pressure is kept at the regulator, but the fuel pump is failing, could that result in a drop in pressure when the car is cranked with a hot engine?

The regulator is part of the fuel sender/pump assembly. It dumps the excess fuel back into the sending unit canister. You will need to check the pressures when u have the no/hard start problem. If the pressures look good when it fails to start then its not the fuel pump or regulator. Checking the pressure when u r not having the issue tells u nothing because its intermintant. Im not sure what porsche no-start fuel psi is but im sure google knows.

Doesn't sound like a fuel issue to me, because your have no problems on cold start and short drives. The fuel pressure regulator is located on the fuel rail on a '99' Carrera. You can check your fuel pressure if you think you should. Gauge should read 55# without engine running and 48# with engine idling, + or - 3#. I think you may find your CPS is old and not working the way it was designed. Just a guess at this point. I think they are cheaper than a fuel pump. If that helps...

I would also check and clean the idle speed motor. Mine was carbonned up and stuck open. This made hot starts very long. Had to crank it for 10 seconds to fire up. Once I removed it and cleaned the carbon off, then tested it with a 9V battery to make sure it works, the problem went away.

Thank you guys so much for the responses. Upon further investigation, a tech and I believe it may very well be a sensor or the idle control valve. I thought that my previous tech checked the ICV, but I am going to take a look myself because I may be mistaken. If it looks clean, I will direct my attention to the sensors. If it is the ICV, I will be embarrassed because DBJoe996 told me to check this quite a while ago.. but I am just starting getting comfortable working on the car now.

Not to criticize the 996 forum (because this place rocks), being a former 986S owner I would recommend going over to the 986 board for future help. Those guys live 986 24/7. If you can get "JFP in PA" to respond, he's always the best choice. Guy knows everything 986.

Quotes source post: 16053076

Good idea, the Boxter and the 996 engines are basically the same.

In the 986 world, that guy was like the Walker (Pelican) guy for air cooled. Seen it all. Does it for a living. Whatever, just a suggestion.

So, I completed a thorough cleaning of the IACV. The flap was black, as was the whole inside area. I sprayed carb cleaning in each side, let it sit, and then shook out the cleaner with black debris 4 times. I also used a plastic cleaning brush and q tips. There was a thick layer of sludge at the base of the flap that kept it from moving at all. When I finished, the flap moved freely and was shiny silver. I was in high spirits, but I do not think this corrected the issue. Car started fine cold and I believe the revs sat a little lower than before, so I took it on a drive to get the temperature up and then completed some heavy accelerations. After letting the car sit I started it again a few times.. It just doesn't seem smooth. There is now a more pronounced intake sound on restart, and perhaps the car did stumble as much, but I still felt that it was idling slightly rough (vibrations through the seat) and the revs just hang a little low until you begin driving it, at which point they manage to settle into ~700 RPM. Since the battery was unplugged, I will add some more miles and see if anything changes.. but it is doubtful. I still feel it may slip up and intermittently die on restart again. In the meantime, any more ideas? I am going to cycle the IACV with a 9V battery to confirm it is working condition this week. Porsche quoted me $715 CAD for the part.... I mean come on! At least the gasket was only $3.36!