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YOUR RESEARCHIMSB Flange stuck - how to remove?
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Replace during rebuild anyway
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As an aside, if you do try to use a inner bearing puller, you may need to tap the IMS bearing support with the threaded portion inward to make room for your puller.
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Suggestion
As an aside, if you do try to use a inner bearing puller, you may need to tap the IMS bearing support with the threaded portion inward to make room for your puller.
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I am trying to remove the IMSB Flange and it is stuck good. I've tried pry bars and it's not budging. It's not even moving a tiny little bit. At this point I'd guess it's cemented in. Any suggestions on how to get this sucker out of there?
rcNafWL.jpg
did you try gently taping it clockwise and counterclockwise ? 5 degrees or so each way.
also a spry of BP bluster, and let it seat for few hours will not hurt.
Andy, you don't need $500 tools to do this. Step back, take a breath and go at it later when you're fresh.
Part of being a mechanic is working through oddball stuff like this.
As I think through this assembly, there shouldn't be anything other than friction caused by the IMS flange seal. The only thing holding the flange in are those three bolts and the stud on the IMS bearing post. The center nut is broken off, and you should have the three bolts removed, so we're just dealing with friction and gunk.
(Deleted an idea that wouldn't work...)
What about something like this:
You Tube
Harbor freight version:
You Tube
This is what you are battling with:
Here is the assembly you are tugging on:
And here is what is behind it:
Having never done this job or even seen the insides of an IMSB assembly in person: Is it possible that given this type of catastrophic failure is it possible that those forces have caused an interference fit issue with the flange?
The entire assembly (less the center retaining nut and three flange bolts) are shown above. I can't envision how the bearing failure could cause the flange to get stuck, but I've touched a grand total of 3 m96 engines in my life, so I don't have much perspective. I bet shops like LN and FSI have seen tons of these.
At the end of the day, if the engine is being disassembled to rebuild, I don't think flange removal is critical. Once the cases are split the IMs flange will come off. It will be replaced during rebuild anyway.
In my mind, the more important thing is to not bugger up the case halves while messing around with the flange.
Always good advice.
No I did not.
I was wondering the same thing, but the I also wondered if someone glued the damn thing in place (with Loctite or something).
That's 3 more than I have, this being my first.
Ain't that the truth, that's why I stepped away.
Well, I guess I need to make another trip to Harbor Freight...
I second the idea of tapping left and right rotation to see if the seizure can be broken by knocking it left and right.
If you are going all the way to disassembly, there's really no reason to fight with it until you are ready to split the cases. Work from the heads inward, and once the cases are ready to split, you'll have the case studs separated, and that should do it(eventually). I believe the cams will come out of the head by removing the chain tensioners on each side.
Yeah I've seen plenty of pics even one that had been gold plated! What I was wondering is in the above pic as the bearings were self ejecting if it might be possible that one or more might have tried to get between either bearing race and the back side of the flange sealing area enough to deform that area and thereby possibly adding additional holding force that might prevent the flange from being easily removed. Just thinking out loud.
As an aside, if you do try to use a inner bearing puller, you may need to tap the IMS bearing support with the threaded portion inward to make room for your puller. If you take a brass drift and a hammer, you can tap it free of the inner IMS bearing race and into the hollow cavity of the IMS shaft. This will make room for the inner bearing puller to grab the inner end of the IMS flange. Once you remove the flange and then the bearing, you can retrieve what is left out of the shaft.
Luckily, LN Engineering provides a special tool in their kit for pulling the bearing after the stud snaps. If you get to that point, give me a holler and I can provide some guidance.
^^ This must be done - do not pull off the housing without locking the cams - sounds like the shaft is not aligned so getting it off means you wont be able to get it back on...
Here is a thread that might help - the shaft of the bearing might need to be centred before you can remove it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-centered.html
http://lnengineering.com/files/IMSR-...n-Warranty.pdf
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-the-cams.html
But the engine is coming completely apart right? , so just follow the prior instructions,, start at the outside and work to the middle,
there is nothing to be gained but abusing that bearing and much to lose. Especially if some shrapnel is jammed in there..
Haven't done a M96 but I have done a 69 2 liter and other engines with counter shafts,,.. and Just in similarities,, I could see it going south..
