First Porsche advice

Hi, I plan to purchase a 996 for around $15-20k. Never had a Porsche before and I have lots of questions. Will really appreciate if someone would go over in details. I want to use it as a fun car, take it to the track a few times a year. - would you recommend 3.2L (1999-2001) or 3.6L (2002+)? - how expensive is maintenance, what should I expect? - are the engines still reliable after 100K+ miles or better to look with less miles? Thanks!

Welcome. They are great cars, you�ll enjoy it once you get one. I don�t think you�ll find better bang for your buck in used sportscars than a 996. There isn�t concensus on better or worse - lots of people on this forum like the early cars more than the later cars and vice versa. Maintenance costs vary. If you buy one that has good records and was well maintained, you are likely to have lower expenses. Then again, they�re old cars, and time takes it�s toll on rubber and other items, so you never know. A few often repeated pieces of advice here are: buy the nicest one you can find, try to get one with full maintenance records, and plan to spend another $5k on deferred maintenance (things like brakes, tires, suspension, fluids, filters) after buying (especially if a shop does the work - if you DIY, you�ll save tons). Almost forgot the biggest one many people recommend - pay for a pre purchase inspection (PPI) prior to buying. It is money well spent on these cars. I personally don�t shy away from 100k+ miles cars, but I don�t daily drive mine, and have several other options if one of my 996 is being worked on. And I do all of my own work other that tires and alignments, so that is a factor. You should be able to get a decent car for your price range. There are many less expensive ones out there that may be fine, but the top end of your range should get you a good one (likely higher mileage if I had to guess). I�d recommend doing a ton of reading here (starting with the FAQ section at the top of this forum) around the web and in books/magazines. Adrian Streather�s 996 Essential Companion is the best source in my mind - tons of great information. Most of what you wonder has been hashed out and rehashed over and over. Friendly advice - do lots of reading before asking too many basic questions, it�ll save you from people giving you a hard time when you ask something that has been answered 1000 times and the answer is readily available with a quick google search. Not everyone is friendly about it. ps. The early 996 was 3.4 liters (not 3.2) and the later was 3.6. I have one of each and prefer the 3.6 (mine is a 2002 MY).

I have owned two 996's and here is my advice. Many will disagree but here goes.... First the don'ts: Do not get a manual, When the pinion gears go bad it will not be easy or cheap to fix or replace. Do not get the all wheel drive as it has a front differential and when it needs to be fix or repaired it won't be easy or cheap. Do not get a year with the single row IMS bearing Do not get Litronic headlights, when they fail it will be expensive to fix Do not get headlight washers Do not get all leather interior - unless it is perfect Now the do's: Do get a Tiptronic. Much easier and less expensive to fix or replace Do get rear wheel drive only Do get a 1999 year. It has dual row IMS bearing Do get a 1999 year , the hood and rear decklid are opened via cables and not with stupid electric switches that fail Do get regular headlights Do get non leather dash - the material of the non leather dash is solid and holds up very well Do get a 1999 with the 3.4 engine. It works really well and finally...take an NA lightweight Miata to the track, not a 996 Porsche. Flame on.

To give you an idea of the diverse perspectives - I disagree with much of what was posted by michaelo. Personally, I�d find the nicest 996.2 manual transmission carerra 4S (with a full leather interior and litronics) that I could afford and drive the snot out of it, road and track.

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I can see your reasoning behind some of these, but I respectfully and personally disagree with just about every one of them. The car you spec is very different than any 911 I would consider purchasing. What I say: Buy a manual 99 or 02+. 02+ upgrade the IMS immediately Avoid 2000-2001. Failure prone IMS bearing with no larger engine benefit Avoid C4 models. (More parts to fail and heavier) Full leather is a worthwhile upgrade and provides much better quality experience Litronic is all good IMO. Avoid the tufted comfort leather. Avoid gray or beige interiors (I like them, but they wear much more quickly).

I agree with all of above to some degree. Below are my opinions: My suggestion for a track car would be a Miata. They're cheaper and easier to rebuild the engines. All the parts are going to be cheaper as well. If you decide you still want a 996 for a fun/track car I would suggest a manual, especially for a track car. The Tiptronic is a very good almost bullet-proof transmission, but manual always rules! I also recommend early 1999(built in EARLY 1998) or 2002+. But I wouldn't turn down a good deal on ANY year 996! Make it a C2. (RWD) All-leather is good if in good condition. Replacement Litronic is not expensive if you watch eBay. I bought a spare set for my car for $400. Headlight washers? meh. Expect to replace some suspension components. Have $2-5K (at least) ready to get it back into shape, if you're doing your own work. Have $2-3K more to get it ready for the track. Buy a Durametric cable BEFORE you start looking at cars, you'll want to check them over well. (over-rev, camshaft deviation, trims, DTC) http://www.durametric.com/usedporschebuyersguide.aspx Or pay someone to do a PPI for you. Regardless of which IMS the 996 you find has, install the IMS Solution. You will never have to worry about the IMS again. Install the 2qt deep sump from LN Engineering. It will prevent any oil starvation issues. Install a center radiator. You can find used parts for the mounts, which will save you money. Then buy new hoses and bolts. The radiator you can go either used or new. I went used and saved a ton of money. I pressure tested the used radiator before installing. Replace your water pump. Install the LN 160F thermostat when you do that. Run the correct oil for the track and for the street. Read the LN Engineering "Tracking You Car And The M96 Engine." This will repeat most of what I've suggested. https://lnengineering.com/education/...96-engine.html It is available from LN Engineering's website. https://lnengineering.com/education/...96-engine.html Those were just my opinions and there will be some who will disagree with me too. Buy a 996! <--That opinion will probably not be disputed...at least not by many people here. They are awesome cars!!!

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Do not follow this advice (unless you don�t know how to drive manuals). Rowing through the gears at 6k + rpms is epic. I can�t imagine how dull it�d be with an automatic. I agree with getting a Miata for the track. Or at the very least make sure you upgrade the 996 for track days. Do a search on track days/oil starvation...

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Thia is the thing about opinions and statements that seem like absolutes. The problem according to every source I�ve read is that nobody knows the cutoff for dual to single row IMS bearing - sometime in 2000, but it is unclear if there was a cutover, or they just used whatever they had in inventory. To wit: I have a 2000 with a dual row imsb. My personal *opinion* is that one need not completely avoid the 2000 MY - especially if there is evidence of the dual row, say for example proof of a LN dual row replacement (like my car), or reciepts showing other mitigating information (reciepts with R&R and p/n for a dual row replacement). Like all opinions, it�s worth exaclty what you paid for it. Oh, and don�t drive your 996 on the track if you ever hope to enjoy that miata you�re getting to replace it for track use. There is no comparison. Yes, a miata is cheap fun, but to paraphrase and twist a phrase from a politician �I�ve driven a miata on the track sir, and the miata is no 996�. Lol

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That's exactly why I say avoid... because you don't know unless you do some serious digging. Take the element of it being even a possibility out of the equation.

I would have assumed TIP, especially in the early days would be way more expensive to fix if something goes wrong. They are generally more expensive as a factory option than a manual. I have only been an owner a short time but ownership does not seem any worse than other high-performance German sports cars or sedans of the era. The big-ticket repair items are going to be your IMS bearing, air oil seperator, clutch, and rear main seal. You can find a car that has these items fixed or just budget it into your price negotiation.

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They all have a high possibility, even of the probability is low. By that kind of logic, people would be wise to avoid all 996 and 997 before the 997.2, because there is a known risk (�possibility�). Doesn�t make sense to me, but that may just be me. Leaves more 2000�s for the rest of us, I guess.

What wrong with driving your 996 on a track. He is saying 2-3 times a year. Probably novice level not race car driver level. Stay of the high banked oval Nascar tracks. Get the most well maintained 996 you can afford. 3.4 - 3.6 is not much of a big difference. 3.4 will be less expensive to purchase.

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Good thing I didn't see this before my purchase. Oh - wait. It wouldn't have mattered.....and still doesn't.

I spent a month researching all the info I could about the 996 and it's problems before I committed to jumping in. If you're not mechanically inclined it can get expensive. Get a higher mileage car that has documentation of all the wear items replaced. Get two!

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@Scott at Team Harco , you need to update your signature. There's no mention of your 996.

1. Be very careful to distinguish facts vs. opinions. (Too often "facts" written on the forum are just hearsay). 2. Read as many published articles as possible here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-articles.html

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I love all 996's so not picking on 0/01's. But personally if I'm "risking" the possibility of potentially having what's universally considered the weakest of the bearings (Some 00, All 01-05), then I at least want the added benefit of having the larger engine is all I'm saying. The 99 on the other hand is a known variable and somewhat different of a 996 being the first model year. It has some additional charm to it that is being recognized by pubs and experts out there.

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I've found that many "published" articles about the 996, even positive ones, often are not always accurate.

Simple answer from someone who has had three. Find the nicest one you can afford and have a pre-purchase inspection done, then decide from there.

My 2002 cab was perfectly maintained from new. However, at 72K miles a tensioner failed and the engine grenaded. Since it is cheaper to just buy another 996 than to buy and install a rebuilt engine, I sold it as a roller for $5K. My advice: replace the tensioners immediately. Personally, I'd only buy a 996 that has the following: * 6 speed manual * Cabriolet * 2 wheel drive I don't think you can beat these cars for sheer fun factor. Somewhere down the road I'll be getting another, but it will be a 997 that doesn't have the inherent engine design issues. Bill

I rolled the dice on my 2000 since the build date is 7/99. Haven't had it on a lift yet to look at the IMS flange, but I think I have a very good chance it has a double row bearing. At any event, with 120K on the clock I fully expect some sort of mechanical issue with the motor to creep up at some point. When that happens, it will come out of the car and go through a bulletproofing (IMS solution, RMS, AOS, timing chain guides and tensioners).

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Good point - leaves my previous comment ungrounded. There is also no mention of three Audis and a bunch of other junk we own....

wow, thanks guys for all comments! I didn't expect so much feedback. Keep it coming! I'd get you some more info to clarify my needs: I currently own a 96' bmw m3, full cage etc, tryin to sell it. I was only doing Time Trials in it and I have a trailer to take it to the track. I decided thats too much hassle and I need a fun car to drive TO the track and ON the track, and sometimes drive it around for some errands. I've seen some videos and I'm prone to RWD, of course manual. Please do not offer me a miata) Firstly, I'm pretty tall and don't fit in it, I know they're good at the track. Secondly, I just don't like them) Thirdly, like I said, I had already dedicated car for the track and mazda is no fun to drive around the city))) that's why I'm looking 2 in 1. Also, I do have second car as a daily driver, so no problem if Porsche is in the shop. Thanks again, and keep the comments coming)

I came from the BMW world too. I had a 2009 BMW 135i with a N54 that put out 500 rwhp that was my daily driver. It was fun in a straight line, but not the best track cars. My 996 is slower than my BMW in a straight line, but is SO much more fun. I enjoyed the 996 so much that after I realized I hadn't driven the BMW in two months I decided to sell it and throw the money into the 996. (Suspension and track preps)

^^^^^^^^^^^ I had a cobb tuned e90 335i N54 w/ FBO Stage 1+. That thing was a boosted rocket ship and handled incredible after I swapped out the M suspension. Had a 996 C4S at the same time and ended up selling the C4S because it wasn't nearly as capable. That said my current 996 AE is way more of a special "experience" to drive even though it has way less HP.

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I couldn't imagine driving an automatic 996. I'd rather own a corolla. I had one of my litronic ballasts go out and it was like $30 to replace I highly recommend black full leather, makes the car feel really high end and after 20 years it still smells new.

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I've disagreed with parts of suggestions in a post before but I don't think I've ever seen a post that I 100% disagree with on every single point.

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I owned a stick Corolla and a Tip 996 at the same time, and drove the Corolla 5 times more. I kid, I kid. But I tend to agree with you.

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Maintenance is similar to any other German car, but Porsche parts can be more expensive. Case in point, a 100k mike car that may need an engine rebuild might cost $10-$20k. I would buy the nicest car you can afford with the lowest mileage (except for cream puffs that are very low mileage). Those will be much higher than your budget anyway.

Don't get manual??

DO what I did. read and read every possible thread/post/book about issues and what to look for... negotiate your *** off on a bunch of clean cars with tons of history... stumble on a basket case with no history for a ridiculously low price and snap it up! youtube and these forums are your friend. Most projects are VERY DIY

I have one simple piece of advice. Be careful you might become addicted to owning a Porsche. It might take over all your spare time and your thoughts. Enjoy

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Thats already happening))) Can't wait to sell my M3 and buy 911)))

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I have found a few cars around the area I live and I've got some questions: - what do you think of Targa model, is the only difference sliding roof and openable rear window? - what do you think of salvaged / rebuit title cars? - one of the cars is slightly over my budget, but it looks like in excellent condition and its 4S model. Should I consider it? It's probably gets less mpg as a daily driver and I don't really need AWD. How does the affect on the track? What suspension work did you do for track prep, coil overs? Huge thanks yo everyone!

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Just a warning from me, unless you have a lot of experience with salvaged cars and rebuilding them. Dont go that route especially with a high end car.

Just buy a decent well maintained documented car to your liking make sure you get a PPI on it and go for it ..... If you can do some maintenance yourself all the better as it will go a long way $$$ otherwise just go for it life is to short to worry about what if's ....

My only opinion on Targa is they are a small sub-set of the model, and MAY at some point demand a higher price due to rarity. The question is WHY was it salvage/rebuilt? If you have pics before and after, and a good explanation of what happened and what was fixed, I might risk it for a bottom-barrel price. C4S is like the Targa, but even more desirable due to the higher HP engine. All other things considered, I would opt for the C4S in good cond, even though I had to spend more for it initially. The AWD drive system is rather pedestrian. It uses a viscous clutch to engage the front drive up to 40%(I think?) of torque. It is not at all like the Audi Quattro. I doubt it would be a gain on the track. Removal of the front drive components is apparently not very hard, and saves quite a bit of weight. I've never done it, but the steps are here on this forum to remove it all and put in the garage.

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Track Mods: +2qt deep sump with baffles and 997 de-aerators Center radiator LN low temp thermostat new water pump Deep sump skid plate RSS Rollbar Suspenson: Feal coilovers Adjustable drop links adjustable rear toe links

I have a very clean painfully stock NA Miata if any of you wants to put your money where your mouth is. I need the space now that I have a Boxster S. The Miata may be the most woefully underpowered sports car I�ve driven. There are cures but they cost too.

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I really shouldn't ask, but how much?

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Hey Bruce - are those so track safety can pull you out?

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94 1.8 limited slip, ps, cruise, manual etc. You should come to Dallas and see it. 4k and I can include a hard dog roll bar, eibach front sway and other things for a bit more. I also have FM frame rail braces. I need to install the new top and shocks soon and get it gone. You find a cleaner one for less buy it immediately.

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Ha, yeah that should be rear toe links.

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Nice! I've had my eye on a Miata setup for the track locally. But I also want a truck for fetching parts in and possible tow duty. Also I'd like a second 911 or a Boxster... But I have very little room for anything...except maybe for the truck, which I have a parking spot for. It doesn't need as much parking space care as a Porsche or Miata

I wanted to join in on this thread since I have a growing interest to purchase my first Porsche and looking at the 996 as well. I've already test driven the C2, C4, and a C4S and they've all been enjoyable. I know it comes down to personal preference but trying to get a sense from the community of what would provide the most enjoyment, bang for the buck, and retain its value the best. It seems that a lot of people like the C4S (great handling) but others recommend the C2 (for its more delicate RWD porsche driving experience). I currently own an Audi S4--would the C4S be too similar to that (someone said it's not at all like the quattro but aren't they both 40:60 ratios)? Appreciate your patience for my noob questions. Just seeking advice to help in my research. thanks! Addendum: I do love the C4S turbo body style--rear end looks awesome but I also really like the aero kit on the C2...

Which gen s4? I�ve had b6, b7 and b8. None of were remotely similar to any 911 I�ve driven. Completely different driving experiences. The s4 are all fun, but are heavy beasts, sporty sedans, albeit super fun to drive. What are you looking for out of the ownership experience of a 911? The C4S looks the business and is often highly optioned, and those rear wide quarterpanels... yowsa. But it is heavy with the awd drivetrain, and has different handling as a result. The c2 is lighter and handles better (in my opinion), but it isn�t (quite) as nice to look at. The c4 doesn�t make sense to me since it has all of the downsides of a C4S with none of the upsides (ducking my head). Whatever you decide, good luck. I don�t think there is another car out there that gives the bang for the buck you get from a 996.

I bought a Boxster which is why the Miata has to go. As for which 996 to get..... get the nicest one you can afford with the best maintenance history. I think Colin Chapman had it right and light is the way to go.....

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I have a B8 (2012) and agree--it's been super fun to drive! I've also done a few mods to it, which has been fun too.

I just went from a 2014 A4 6M car to an 04 C4S Cab 2 months ago. Totally different cars and driving experiences. The A4 feels big and numb compared to the 911. The steering and clutch has less feel and the AWD is very different. The 911 drives like a rear wheel car. The rear wheels will break free with some power application. The A4 was constant grip with more of a front wheel drive feel.

out of curiosity.. people are saying C4S has wider rear panels and bumper and that it looks sick. Is it possible to install those on regular C2 or they won't fit?

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Excellent response! Worth bumping it to the top.

Rebuilt or Salvage titles are not the same as years ago. Insurance companies will sometimes "total" a car that does not have any significant damage, some are.stolen recovery, missing interior you need to investigate..., Best to see it before any repairs are done...If you are handy..there are bargains...

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I may be putting my 99 aero up for sale soon as I�m heavily leaning toward a 981 Cayman. 81k miles and a stack of receipts since 2004. Everything addressed. Previous owner was a PCA member as am I.

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Please let me know when you do, I'd be interested in taking a look!

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PM sent.

Can PPI find out if IMS was replaced?

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Not without significant cost. If the IMSB is your only concern just plan on having it done with the clutch.

I am going to be the party pooper on this thread, as I was in your very position at the end of last summer. I found a 99 C2 coupe on Craigslist with 70k miles for $17k. I drove it 5 times before a ticking noise sent me to a shop and discovered bore scoring in two cylinders. Now I'm looking at a $15k-$20K rebuild (and consensus on this forum is that I'm foolish if I don't to the $20k build). Everyone is worried about the IMS failures, but there are other failure modes that are just as catastrophic and might actually be more prevalent as these cars age. The respected shops like LN and Flat 6 Innovations say the have seen a big increase in bore scoring issues over the last year, and that might be because of how the Lokasil lining on the cylinders wears with age. Learn about cylinder bore scoring and also the "d chunk" problem where the cylinder walls crack. Getting a bore scope as part of the PPI will cost a few hundred dollars extra - I skipped it because it seems like a lot to spend on a car you don't own, but I regret that decision now. If you ever plan to go to a track, even just for a HPDE, learn about the things mentioned above - how sustained hard corning can starve the engine of oil and cause connecting rods and main bearing to come apart and require the rebuild mentioned above. Also, learn about how the early cars without a center radiator have inadequate cooling, or how the stock thermostat activates at too high a temperature, either of which can cause the engine to overheat and require an engine rebuild. Also, don't forget to check on the health of the water pump, whose impeller can start to shed plastic chunks. Because once those get into the engine, you might be in for (you guessed it) a $20k engine rebuild. Jeez. I didn't intend it, but I might have just talked myself out of keeping this car. Oddly enough, I was shopping blue NA Miatas before I decided to "go for it" and treat myself to the 911 I've always wanted.

Taking 996 buying advice from someone whose 996 just blew up is similar to taking marital advice from someone who just got divorced.

You can always buy a car that has all of the weak points addressed already... ;-)

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Yeah - and has numbers on it, too. As an example: #222

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LOL that's fair. I certainly would've ignored the doomsayers when I was shopping for my 996. To the OP I would say go ahead and ignore most of my previous post, except for two things: 1. While the IMS bearing is the thing everyone talks about, don't snooze on the other issues 2. Get a "look-inside-the-engine" PPI, even though it's going to cost ~3-4% of the purchase price

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I�d rather know all the cautions like you posted, than go into a 996 blind. I have a 99, and bore scoring on the earlier cars is more rare than the later ones, so you got pretty unlucky.

987.2 Caymans are just out of your budget...

Guys, another question. So I'm leaning towards 4S model because of looks. I've seen they're about $21-25K. But for about $25-27 you can get a 997 regular or S model. What are your thoughts between 996 4S and 997 (regular or S)?

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If you are thinking about a 997.1, I suggest reading up on those. In summary, some of the 2005 model cars came with the small single row IMSB M96 engine. The late 2005 through 2008 came with the large (more robust) single row IMSB M97. The most common failure appears to be bore scoring, particularly on the 3.8 liter S engine. Overall, there are many design similarities to the 996. Many people think the engine problems were solved with the 9A1 engine in the 997.2, but they seem to have longevity issues too. They are the first DFI (direct fuel injection) engines of this design and there are problems with carbon build-up on the intake valves since there is no fuel wash like there is with port injection. Every machine has its Achilles Heel.

They are different beasts. The C4S is essentially a 996 �turbo look� model. It is nice looking, and most of them have been well optioned (full leather, etc.). But, they�re still the same engine as the C2, and have the weight and complexity penalty of the front drivetrain. The 997S has a bigger engine and the 997 aesthetics. If you are going for turbo like looks, the C4S may be better, if you�re looking for the return to round headlights and better performance, the 997S would be my choice. Road and Track thinks the 997 is the perfect first Porsche: https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...first-porsche/ � The C2S will give you most of the experience of the GT3 at a fraction of the price.� Not sure I completely buy that, but I�m sure it is a fun car.

Alright. After months of search and research I've bought it! 2002 C4S with 115k miles. Now the questions... Since I plan doing some HPDE events I want to install 2qt deep sump with baffles and center radiator. Also a set of light rims and track tires. I have a few porsche mechanics in the area i live (Burbank, CA) and I want to shop around for prices... I wonder what's typical price range for oil pan baffle and center radiator installation should I expect? Anyone from here living in my area? Also, what brand of light rims for racing is good? PS looks like I have brand new thermostat and water pump, bilstein adjustable coil overs (they make squeaking noise on low speed when going over speed bumps etc, is that normal?), evolution cold air intake.

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Did you buy a low temp thermostat? Just be aware tracking a 996 esp a high mileage has it's risks. Stuff like all your chain tensioner pads will be worn and brittle etc. "Cold" air intakes on these cars add zero power FYI

Congratulations on finding the car you want. Yes on the 2qt oil sump, 996 have issues with oil pick-up on tracks. Don't spend money on rims, spend money on yourself. Track time, DE instruction is the best money spent to go fast. Lighter rims, ECU tunes, etc may make your car faster but won't make you faster. Learn to drive and any car you are in will be faster. Advice from a PCA DE Instructor.

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No, I didn't buy low temp thermostat, seller said its brand new, I'm yet to get to a mechanic and check. Same with cold air intake, it was just existing.

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thanks for the advice. I didn't mean to spend money on rims right away, but separate set of tires for track is something I want to have, since I'm planning using the car as a daily and a few times a year at HPDE or TT events. If you read the thread, I mentioned earlier, that I had a track prepped M3 that I just sold, so I have several years track experience. So anyone knows what it could cost to install center radiator and oil sump? Thank you!

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Congrats, I hope it treats you well. You�ll be hard pressed to find wheels significantly lighter than the BBS wheels currently on the car. Instead I�d look for oem hollow spokes to use for DD duties. I have no insight on west coast installation costs, so I�m no help there. No, you shouldn�t have any squeaking. It�s either something isn�t installed right with the suspension, bushings replaced are urethane instead of rubber, or some bushes need to be replaced. Im curious, did you have a PPI prior to purchase? Did the car come with maintenance history beyond just the upgrades listed to the sell car?

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Center radiator isn�t too bad. Oil pan by itself is also easy, but to make the car truly track worthy involves more than just the oil pan with baffles. The scavenger pumps need to be addressed. The best solution is a dry sump. Make sure you run proper oil, as oil can foam in this engine and will show up as oil pressure drops on long sweeping right handed turns.

I was able to piece together my own Center Radiator Kit using new and used parts. It cost me $394. I would also suggest replacing the water pump and a low temp thermostat. I also installed the LN Engineering 2qt deep sump which solves oil issues if you use the correct oil. All of these were easy installs.

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I�d say a deep sump helps with oiling as well as the x51 style tray you will get with it. I don�t think it solves potential oiling issues. I�m not the expert but I believe these mods just give you a larger oil reserve in high g situations. The solution would be a better oil scavenging system to return the oil to the sump faster. The ultimate band aid is the accusump as far as I can tell. In my research this issue is way more complicated than it seems initially. But for the record I too recently purchased sump extensions and X51 style baffle trays. It definitely helps.

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Beautiful car! Congratulations. Now, instead of flushing down money for coil overs, cold air intakes, center radiator, etc, why not spend the money on getting the motor checked out. Did you have a PPI? What about the IMS. Was it changed out?

I remember when that car was for sale on Craigslist. You got some huevos to buy that car, and to track it. That’s just another level! Good luck!

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I'm just wondering on which CL did you see it? I'm not sure were talking about the same car? IMS done, coil overs and cold air intake were existing options and compared to other cars currently on the market for the same price range it didn't cost me anything extra. Yes, PPI done, all good. seller said and PPI confirmed that water pump and thermostat were recently replaced. Is low temp thermostat different from OEM one? Or is it additional one? sorry for noob questions.. I've read LN engineering PDF about racing this engine, and they suggest replacing special racing oil before each event and then replacing back to street oil. Isn't that too crazy? When I say I plan to race this car, I mean just doing a few HPDE events a year, each event is Saturday-Sunday 3 times a day, 20 minutes each. Is this procedure still recommended in this case?

It all depends on your expectations for the car I think. Make sure you get a PPI first, get a car with as much documentation as possible. Maintenance if done frequently is the key to these cars lasting a long time. I posted this below in a previous thread but these are some items from my experience that wear out. Couple of common problems: IMS Bearing Air Oil Separator Valve cover leaks RMS leaks Clutch/flywheel wear Wheel bearing issues Water pump Tensioners for belts Those are just some things to look at when purchasing on the history to see if they are done or a issue. I would look at a car with 65,000-90,000 miles. Most of the issues will flare up by then, I like the 1999-2000 year range, they are priced well and if maintained are a great car. Please let me know if you have any questions!

ok so my car is in the shop for maintenance and some upgrades... In the meantime, I think I'll use existing wheels for racing weekends, since I don't really like them. What are your favorite wheel design for daily usage?

Quotes source post: 15932769

This thread is going to go from six pages to twenty in 24 hours.

6GT3 rims.

Quotes source post: 15932865

I think there first response to OP's question for everyone fired up 🙂

Quotes source post: 15810290

I have a 94 Laguna blue that I�m going to sell soon.

Quotes source post: 15897273

Anthony, is accusump used in conjunction with 2qt deep sump, or just by itself or somehow else? ​​​​​​​

They are mutually independent. You don't need a deep sump to run an Accusump, but there is nothing preventing you from doing them together. There are also a couple of different sizes of sumps, and different manufacturers, each with their own fan followings. If you are really motivated you could run a 2 quart deep sump, x51 style baffle, and an Accusump all together.