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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2004 Boxster 2.5, manual 1-3 rear timing chain
Leading reported evidence
Check timing
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
BTW Before starting this removal, I removed the plugs and checked the timing.
Leading evidence: 'Check timing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check timing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used the 3 setscrew method to lock the IMS sprocket.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I will re-time this engine after replacing the bearing.
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Replacing the IMS bearing. Removed the 1-3 rear timing chain tensioner. It fired out from the case.
Removed the Oil pump. The slack side of the chain, tensioner side is so tight it is pulling the IMS shaft
against the case on the 1-3 side. I ordered a bore scope to try to see what is happening with that chain.
Does any one know if the chain tensioner plastic guides fail and wedge against the chain?
^^^This^^^ The crank is supposed to be pinned/locked in the TDC position (there's a hole in the Crank pulely that aligns with a boss on the block). I believe this reduces/removes the tension on the IMS. I'm not sure what your options are now that "the cat's out of the bag" so to speak. I know you're not the first to make this mistake, so stay calm and be sure not to compound your problems by doing something hasty.
I followed the procedure in the
101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster book. Project 14 IMS
bearing removal. I used the 3 setscrew method to lock the IMS sprocket. I marked the cam locations
as per this article.The cam locations have not changed.
Unfortunately, the 2015 updated procedure is not in the book. It includes the pinning and locking of the camshafts.
I do not have the timing tool. So I will have to make one.
BTW Before starting this removal, I removed the plugs and checked the timing. The engine was timed on both banks.
You followed the wrong procedure.
You now have compromised cam timing, and will have to re-time the engine.
The engine must be locked at TDC, crank pinned, and camshafts locked. This is why I include in my classes “ most mistakes related to IMSR procedures occur in the first 5 minutes of the operation”
Thank your quick reply and your succinct information. I will re-time this engine after replacing the bearing.
Obviously, my research led me to the wrong facts.
Why should I use your Single Row Pro IMS Retrofit, and Faultless Tool with method of installation:
US Patent 9,687,974?
This is what you use if you want to fit a dual row bearing to a factory single row shaft. The Faultless tool delivers the bearing, with it�s internal wire lock into the IMS shaft. This requires compression of the internal wire lock, as the bearing is being pressed into the IMS shaft housing bore.
Also, in your original post you did not mention removal of the IMS tensioner, on the bank 1-3 tensioner. Did you remove the IMS tensioner? It dounes like you didn�t. This tensioner forces the IMS assembly toward bank 1-3.
It sounds like you have multiple issues with the procedure. Not to bust your ***** about it, as making a mistake is bad enough punishment. Its important that others see what you did wrong, so they learn from your mistakes. Just because a procedure has been inked into a book, doesn�t mean that it�s the most risk- free, comprehensive way of doing the job.
"Also, in your original post you did not mention removal of the IMS tensioner, on the bank 1-3 tensioner. Did you remove the IMS tensioner? It dounes like you didn’t. This tensioner forces the IMS assembly toward bank 1-3."
Yes, I did remove the 1-3 tensioner. If you read the first line of the first post in this thread you would know that I was concerned that the tensioner did not act properly
when removed. In fact, it will not thread back into the case . As stated in the first post, the slack side of the chain is very tight. Consequently, my question about the guide failure and wedging the chain slack side.
It was clear that you removed the 1-3 tensioner.
What wasn’t clear was if you also removed the tensioner that applies force to the IMS tensioner paddle. This one is at crankcase center, and faces right to left, accessed from the bank 2 side of the crankcase.
Basically, how many hydraulic tensioners have been removed from the engine?
Yes I did remove both the tensioners at the back, clutch, end of the engine.
"Also, in your original post you did not mention removal of the IMS tensioner, on the bank 1-3 tensioner. Did you remove the IMS tensioner? It dounes like you didn’t. This tensioner forces the IMS assembly toward bank 1-3.
It sounds like you have multiple issues with the procedure. Not to bust your ***** about it, as making a mistake is bad enough punishment. Its important that others see what you did wrong, so they learn from your mistakes. Just because a procedure has been inked into a book, doesn’t mean that it’s the most risk- free, comprehensive way of doing the job.Both tensioners , 1-3 and the crank to the IMS sprocket, at the back of the engine."
I have determined that the 1-3 chain, guides, cams, and vario timing guides are in good shape. Since I made the set screw
mistake; is it still possible to use your Faultless tool and install your double row IMS bearing and kit?
