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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFilter size with ?The Solution?
Leading reported evidence
Use grinder wheel
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Read evidence and context
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I used a grinder wheel because the metal on those filters is very thick.
Leading evidence: 'Use grinder wheel' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check filter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I have this setup how do you guys check your filter for metal shavings with these enclosed filters?
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Suggestion
I�m not going to recommend any brand, but Zn and P levels are important to mechanical wear.
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Suggestion
If you want oil with enough Zn and P to protect your engine well a certain recommended oil is the easy button.
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Suggestion
I personally run the Toyota 90915-YZZD3 most of the time but have run the Wix 51348 on my Toyota FJ when I accidentally bought it for my non-IMS solution spin adapter (which takes Wix 51042).
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I personally run the Toyota 90915-YZZD3 most of the time but have run the Wix 51348 on my Toyota FJ when I accidentally bought it for my non-IMS solution spin adapter (which takes Wix 51042).
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I have �The Solution� installed. I am in Canada. Ordering the oil filter from LN is big bux due to the dumb import fees. Cost more than the filter.
Can anyone confirm that the proper oil filter is:
Wix 51348
Napa 1348 (this comes up as a transmission filter)
Thanks.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Anyone have any insight why these filters are listed a "Automatic Transmission Filters"?
I had a 2000 Subaru Outback that had the spin on filter for the transmission. My 2010 Forester didn't (same/similar transmission). Oil filtering is oil filtering?
That filter is also a cross for many Toyota filters, I don't have the IMS Solution on my Boxster but I have several toyotas and run that filter, you should have tons of choices at any auto parts store. I personally run the Toyota 90915-YZZD3 most of the time but have run the Wix 51348 on my Toyota FJ when I accidentally bought it for my non-IMS solution spin adapter (which takes Wix 51042).
Can't go wrong wit the Wix if you can get it where you live.
That's exactly the one I will be ordering from NAPA unless it comes up again on Amazon. Only concern was that it is referenced as an automatic transmission filter which is just odd.
Now the question is, I had the solution installed in November 2018. I drove the car 75 km's from Stoney Creek to Toronto. Parked it. Hasn't been started since. Do I change the Joe Gibbs JT 5w40 or not in spring?
He said "See you in the fall." I doubt I'll even get to 7500 km. I find it a hard pill to swallow to dump oil with 75 kms. on it. Never mind that the oil in it is super expensive. I don't want to start an oil thread again. I read about oil for the 996. Comments are all over the map. 2 things my Dad always said, use Castrol oil. Use Michelin tires. 10 liters of Castrol Edge is $60. Joe Gibbs is 3X that. I have yet to see anything definitive about what oil to use. I am not trying to be cheap. I am trying to not be foolish. Waiting for the part 3b Bore Scoring video on recommendations to prevent.
I don't want to start another oil thread either. My 99 C2 has 143K+ miles. I have an LN spin on oil filter adapter. I keep it simple. I change my oil/filter twice a year...right before it gets summer hot and right before winter cold. I use Mobil 1 European blend 0W-40 and the Mobil M1-107 oil filter. You can buy Mobil 1 0W-40 at Wal-Mart or just about any auto parts store. I usually watch for it to go on sale. Guess I'm doing something right
Porsche has an approved oil list but currently I don't know where to find it. It has been revised many times since times have changed. It used to be available over on RennTech, but I have not seen it in awhile. This is the latest I can find
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ge-change.html
This is the sticker on my engine lid
Not sure if you guys have heard about zinc and phosporous in oils yet. I�m not going to recommend any brand, but Zn and P levels are important to mechanical wear. There is a GM engine guy that made studying this his life�s work. He has spreadsheets and tables and does standard wear tests on about every motor oil made. Read up. It�s a lot of reading.
Why did Zn and P get lessened or removed from modern oils? Cost and emissions. This was done to the detriment of engine wear especially for slider camshafts. Our engines have slider cams. If you have a hydraulic roller lash adjuster not as much of an issue. They are common in domestic OHV V8s. They are heavy too which is bad for high rpm (everything is a trade off).
If you want oil with enough Zn and P to protect your engine well a certain recommended oil is the easy button. Notice I didn�t say cheap button.
And if you want to dig deeper search lawsuits regarding the label �synthetic� as it pertains to oil. A lawsuit was won that makes it easy to slap
that label on poor quality oil. When synthetic oils first became prominent there wasn�t a standard but quality was high. Since the lawsuit quality dropped. It�s a classic case of if you can�t beat them, join them. So since company Y can call their swill synthetic legally, we will sell swill too because good synthetic oil is now unprofitable. Unprofitable.... so you�re buying synthetic garbage if you are shopping by price.
And again, I�m just some dude from TX, you can do whatever you like. Your money, your car, your engine, you may be Einstein�s daddy, and my advice might be rubbish. Have fun.
I really do not understand the oil debate. I never really have. Phosphorus is important for antiwear. Bad for cats, bad for environment. How much phosphorus should there be in oil? What else does the 996 need in an oil? I have googled and googled and really have seen no consensus or trend. What does oil in titanium do? I have read journal articles about titanium’s anti wear in oils. No clue how much should there be.
I see see two options. Buy the expensive bespoke oil. Hard to get in Canada and very, very expensive. Other option is name brand oils that meet a number of different certifications from both Porsche and others. Lesser cost, assume more r&d.
Truly, I am very indecisive as I really don’t have any evidence one way or another. I usually make decisions based on evidence. No clue and relieved I have a season prior to making a decision.
The $120 price differential is irrelevant to me. What is relevant to me is using the most effective to avoid future issues oil. I do not have enough information to make an informed decision.
Okay I will lead the horse to water..... I gave you all the clues you needed to find the info. Iceberg incoming....
https://www.google.com/amp/s/540ratb...t-ranking/amp/
From this blog, the highest ranked 5w40 is DT40*
* except for 5W40 Mag 1, FMX, European Formula, which there seems to be no way of actually purchasing in Canada.
From the blog
50. 5W40 Joe Gibbs DT40, synthetic = 101,265 psi
This oil claims to be formulated specifically for modern Sports Car engines, yet it has no API certifications at all, and claims to have a ZDDP anti-wear package, which would indicate that it does not have low enough zinc/phos levels to be safely used in modern cat equipped vehicles.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested at the end of 2015.
It is the highest rated oil. Not too many 5w40 oils on list that weren’t diesel. Guess that is what I will be using.
OK stupid question time again. When I tried to cut open my napa filter for the LN full flow kit. I used a grinder wheel because the metal on those filters is very thick. Metal shrapnel and debris started going everywhere. I just stopped right there because I figured the metal shaving all over the place would get all over the element and cause even more severe paranoia. So here goes...How do I get this thick metal filter casing open without getting metal that I am already looking for from inside the engine separated from the metal debris from cutting the filter open?
