Tire rack "ratings"

There is a classification rating on Tire Rack site for something called UTOG The numbers range mostly from 140 to 300 average 240...what does that mean in the "real world"

All tires sold in the USA have this rating system. Even though they are still required most people don't pay any attention to it. In general the UTQG rating tells you about tread life, traction and temp. using 500AA as an example. 500 is the tread wear rating. This is not based on a mileage per say. To keep it simple the tire with a higher number will last longer (example:800) versus as low number (example:100) will wear very quickly. The first A is traction. This rating system is based with AA being the best followed by A, B and C. More or less based on stopping distance. The final A in my example is how well the tire can be resistant to heat. That system is based on A, B and C. For more in depth explanation follow the link below. https://info.kaltire.com/utqg-ratings/

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The Tire Rack site has a lot of good information - including a description of the Uniform Tire Quality Grade meaning and methodology. Learning the basics of what is actually provided on the sidewall of any given tire is a good thing. For example, the date of manufacture is important to know about if you are concerned about the age of your tires. Just because it has a lot of tread, does not necessarily mean it's still good. Regarding the real-world numbers for treadwear - I would never buy a tire with a number higher than, say, 500. The trade off to long tread life is, wait for it.... grip (traction). But of course, with a low number, 140 for example, you can expect to go through the tire in 10,000 miles or so. Significantly less, if you track or autocross the car. I was a tire/ wheel engineer in a previous life, so I've got a little more background in this area than most. Having dozens of wheel and tire sets for gravel, ice and pavement have also provided me with a lot of real-world experience. YMMV

Scott Good info....I am loking for a QUIET,SOFT RIDING TIRE THAT HAS GOOD DRY ADHESION.. This car will NEVER be raced, autocrossed etc. Probably 4000 miles a year...PCA Destination drives, Socail events...etc... I'm lookig at SUMITOMO....and I do like the WIDE look of 315's... tnx

This rating system goes back to the 60s or 70s... I don�t know exactly but my dad spent decades in the auto and tire testimg industry. Back when the test originated the standard gov�t approved tire had a treadwear rating of 100. 200 lasts twice as long, 300 3 times longer and 50 half as long. That�s the original rating. Tire technology has changed almost as fast as electronics since then. My rule of thumb currently is good high performance street tires fall in the 300 TW area, autoX tires are 200 (by rules) and anything less is a bad design or race rubber. All season tires should be 300+ and SUV truck tires could be 400+. I won�t drive on long life 500+ TW tires because they are too hard. That means less traction and longer stopping distances. My sports cars get 200-340 TW tires. My DD truck gets 300-400. My wifes car gets 300-400. I can afford tires but accidents suck. New tires almost always trump old tires. Fresh 300 TW tires will beat almost every old 200 TW tire at any autoX or around any track. Fresh 200 TW rubber is one thrilling ride.

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My go to tires for this is Continental Extreme Contact sport. ECS... not EC dw6, not EC all season... ECS. But they may not be for you. If I had more money it�d be Michelin PS4s.

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Tire Rack does a pretty good job of rating their tires for many of the attributes you are most interested in (and more). Maybe you've discovered this already. Sumitomo does make some good tires. If I remember correctly, they and Goodyear, are partners. Not that that really amounts to much. I did enjoy their yearly visits to my place of employment to inform us of their latest products. I think Dunlop and Falken are, or were, also under their umbrella. Recall getting some good advice and pricing on Goodyear racing slicks when I was still working there. Unfortunately, they never did come through with any rally tires. A story for another time. I'd say Anthony shares much the same opinion as I do; i.e. don't go overboard with a high treadwear rating number. Finding good middle-ground keeps getting harder as tire makers keep focusing on fuel mileage (low rolling resistance). As I stated earlier, the tradeoff is in traction. That is a compromise I prefer not to make. Of course, you must judge what is right for you and your use-case.

Great info and links. I will second the tire age importance! Dealing with classic cars, I've seen and had my own horror stories about tires that are knee deep in tread, but are old. Happens a lot with collector cars, since they don't get driven much. Tires are assumed good based on tread depth alone, but this is misleading! I subscribe to the "8 year rule" on tires, any older than that and they get replaced. I followed a fellow dealer home with a 60k 1970 Chevelle, about an 8 mile trip. Left rear came apart and just about beat the rear quarter panel off the car. Tires are cheap by comparison!

So, the front tires on my "new to me" 03 Cab at 03 with probably 90% tread left should be replaced! Yup, that's next...probably Sumitomos... I need ONE Sumitomo to match the '18 (date) on the rear the other is a Conti '12....date I know what will happen to the "old" tires that I replace, they are bought up by "recyclers", and will probably be sold to some poor s****k who doesn't know about dates.. I'd reall like to cut themd up....but how?

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When i use to work for some of the big chains. They would do inventory twice a year. Any tire that was 7 years old on the shelf got junked. They used a 3/4 hole saw to the side wall in 2 places on each side. I believe the tool was designed for rubber but it cut them with no issue and there was no way anyone was fixing them.

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I have a take home company car so even my boring cars don't get driven as much as most peoples. My tires get replaced due to age rather than wear and 8 years is also about the max I'll go age-wise. It's just not worth the risk of one coming apart at 70-80 mph.