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YOUR RESEARCHreplacing injectors
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Replace intake manifolds
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Leading evidence: 'Replace intake manifolds' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean low mileage rails are plentiful and cheap' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Nice, clean low mileage rails are plentiful and cheap but I'm thinking this is an "engine out" procedure.
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I had to use a lot of force to get my fuel rails off and that was with the motor out.
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That third bolt is a pain unless you use the right tool.
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The recent thread on rebuilt injectors got me thinking about replacing the (as far as I know) original injectors in my 87k '02 Cab. The car is in storage for the winter up on stands waiting for its Fisker modded mufflers to return. New injectors are cheap enough, and I doubt the installation would be more difficult than the truly horrific replacement of the coolant tank. What say the Rennlist Gurus?
I have a 2001 but I understand that the mk2 injectors will work so I am going to use those as they are waaaay cheaper than the mk1 versions. Seems like this is increasing in value as a preventative maintenance item.
I had to use a lot of force to get my fuel rails off and that was with the motor out. I'd like to hear from someone that has done it with the motor in.
Same here. My car had spent some years up in NJ and the rails are fairly rusted. Nice, clean low mileage rails are plentiful and cheap but I'm thinking this is an "engine out" procedure.
What about lowering the engine, maybe 2 inches? I was going to do my clutch this spring and was thinking of "dropping" the engine a couple of inches while the transmission was out.
I might just be asking for a whole load of problems.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
If you're going to take the transmission out anyway, it is all easier to just drop the engine and transmission as a single assembly. Then you can get to lots of harder to reach maintenance parts - AOS, plugs, injectors, vacuum lines, hoses, water pump, etc. In the several times I've done it, taking the transmission alone out didn't save any time or hassle - and if you want to service other items, it's a great time to drop the whole thing out as an assembly and split off the transmission after you drop it.
I�m not saying you have to, but if you needed to, those jobs are a lot easier with the engine out.
Just trying to share some of my personal experience. Sorry I bothered.
Air filter, ground, engine mounts, coolant lines, fuel line, main harness connectors (2) brake booster line off the top of my head. Maybe 45 mins to an hr of additional labor that could save you two or more hrs of frustration. I don't recall if the diagonal bracing or cross member would impede just the tranny.
I'm sure I missed something but Pelican has all the steps in their tech article.
AS I mentioned above, my fuel rails required a lot of force with the engine out, I'd be afraid of breaking something or pulling a muscle if it where an engine in attempt...
How could I forget that! It was a bitch until I got a crowsfoot in there and it took a couple of minutes. That third bolt is a pain unless you use the right tool.
To each their own. Can be done either way, but depending on your skill level, finesse ability, frustration level ect, one way is better than the other. If you have to ask which way is "better", you should remove the engine/trans as a unit, then do whats necessary. And yes it's a pretty big job either way on a 996, on a Boxster it's a whole different ball game, can be easily done from the top getting straight to the injectors.
Sounds like one for the shop, if and when. I thought as long as the car is sitting for the winter, sans mufflers, I would tackle things like plugs and coils (done, easy with the mufflers out) and possibly injectors as preventative maintenance.
If you have the proper tools it shouldn’t be horrible in the car and when I mean proper tools, I mean all the special stubby or awkwardly bent or long/short tools that a technician would have or you will soon be saying why the F did I try to do this!?