First Porsche

Hello RL. My name is Joey and I�ve finally bought my first 911. I don�t have any good pictures yet, but I�ve driven it a thousand miles already, some of that through a snow storm on summer tires (inadvertent; long story). It�s Atlas Grey over black. The paint needs correcting pretty badly, but other than that it�s a solid car. One owner, 21k miles (now 22k), and the options I was looking for. I traded an E92 M3 for it and feel like it was a pretty lateral move in some respects, but a huge step up in what I want out of an only car. I love the E9x M and will get another one eventually, but I needed a 996 and this one was one of the best I�d found in about a year of looking online. It wasn�t the cheapest one by any stretch, but between its short owner history, options, miles, and condition, I had to have it. It even has the thicker steering wheel option, which is the only one I�ve seen in my search. Anyway, here�s the car in my driveway in Connecticut and at the hotel I had to stop at after I got too scared to keep driving in Winter Storm Avery. ​​​​​​

Congratulations! I think the thicker steering wheel is from the GT3, or maybe that is just what I was told to convince me to buy it.

She's a beauty, low miles. Love the shot in the snow.

Damn that's a pretty car. Very low miles too, somebody kept it nice for you. Welcome to the madness, Joey.

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the CLUB!! Your car is a great color!

Congrats!!! Very nice, and wow with the low miles. Enjoy.

Congrats and welcome! Atlas Grey is a great color choice.

Looks great, congrats.

straight trade ? I have no idea of the value of your E92 but applaud you for making the move the 996 pull can be very strong, mine was strong money 4 years ago but I'll never regret acquiring it I'm a fan of low mileage cars also, mine has rewarded me by never having anything requiring servicing It's been all upgrades since Agate Grey...very nice

You should invest in a nice exhaust. I personally couldn�t stand how quiet my beast is. The Prius next door was laughing at me. Got some muffler delete pipes from Beluga Racing, with windows up, drone isn�t bad at all, and the thing sounds like a cup car. Worth the $150 imo. I�ve put 10k miles on mine since Feburary and this is the first I�ve seen with miles lower than mine (40k). Hell of a pick up man. Welcome to the family. Oh and is it Manny or Tippy.

Wow...congrats....first thing to do is address the IMS if it hasn't been already....especially with those low miles. How much did you pay for the beauty?

Congrats! I picked up my 2003 40k mile black 4 weeks ago. Unlike you, I haven’t driven it. Picked it up, drove 20 miles home. 3 days later back to dealer to program second key. Last week, drove it 40 miles to a respected Indy. Getting the Water pump changed, solution installed plus RMS, new clutch, new flywheel and AOS. Then I will drive it home and park it until spring. It will be doing a 500 mile drive to NYC on April 17 tho.

Nice car, welcome to 996 group

Love it! Congrats!

Nice!

Thanks all! It was not a straight trade. I didn�t get a great deal nor did I get a bad deal. Having spent a little time in the car business, I knew what to expect (I paid $14.02 more than I�d planned). I do plan to install an exhaust (Tubi, in particular), �hlins R&T, 245/35 front tires, and 15mm spacers all around for an effective offset that is almost the same as the 6.2 GT3. I�ll drive it for a few months first, though, and get a really good feel for how it was delievered new. With these miles, it�s like getting in a time machine every time I drive it and I�d like to have that experience for a while longer. I would like to do a 4 liter build eventually as well, but that will be years down the road. As for the IMS: I have done a lot of reading on the topic and have decided that the IMSB does not need any attention at the moment. I understand the concern about low mileage and I am a little worried, but I�m going to operate under the assumption that my car is part of the 92% of these things that is just fine. At some point in the relatively near future, however, I do plan on dropping the oil pan and making sure I�ve made the right choice. If I get in there and find evidence the IMSB is failing, then I guess the 4 liter build will just have to be placed higher on the priority list. Heaven forbid (I say sarcastically). Manual or Tip: I�ll preface this by saying that my E92 M3 was equipped with the DCT and I would never have even considered buying that car with the manual. The E39 M5 sourced manual trans in that car feels atrocious; if the whole point of the manual in this modern age of dual clutch transmissions is to increase driver involvement, shouldn�t that involvement be pleasant? Shifting an E9x M with a manual is anything but pleasant in my opinion. The F8x, on the other hand, has a lovely manual transmission. All that said, I could not have lived with the Tiptronic. PDK? All damn day, especially over the 7-speed manual. Tip? I need my transmission to be in the gear I want it to be in a lot faster than the Tiptronic will ever be able to accommodate. I plan to do a shifter and cable kit to tighten up the feel a bit more, but right out of the box this manual is pretty fantastic. Not the best I�ve ever driven, but pretty good. Thr biggest problem I have with the car right now is a little dash rattle. It stops when I put my hand pretty much anywhere on the dash, so locating it will be difficult. If there are normal rattle spots y�all know about, I�m all ears. edit* I feel it�s worth mentioning that I am very mechanically capable. I�ve done everything from lube tech at a Honda dealership to helicopter maintenance on two different airframes in the Army. If I have to, I should be plenty capable of addressing any IMS issues which may present themselves. These cars aren�t that hard to work on, especially now that there is so much documented on that topic. I�m in the camp that thinks the IMSB is blown way out of proportion. I got my M3 in March of �15 with 24k miles and traded it with 78k last Tuesday. I never replaced the rod bearings and it didn�t grenade on me as much as that community was convinced it probably would. The Internet forum has a tendency to blow things a bit out of proportion.

Great color and welcome! How does the 911 feel, compared to the M3?

I did the Fister mod on my exhaust and it is perfect, no drone but loud over 3,000 rpms. I also bought a really low mileage C4S and was worried about all the stories I hear. But it's turning out to be a great car for the money.

Here�s the build sheet ​​​​​

Quotes source post: 15448058

Excellent question. I can sum it up in one word: light. That M3 might just be the best all around car I�ve ever driven (well, considering price...the 991 is definitely better), but it�s 3700 pounds and it feels every bit as heavy as that number would suggest. Losing 700 pounds is amazing. Also, the E92 is a big car with big, heavy, long doors. It is so nice to open and close these 996 doors after 3.5+ years of that M3. There�s a hundred less horsepower and it�s apparent, but combine the weight loss and the fact that it only has 20lb-ft less torque than the M3 did, it feels just as fast overall. It�s funny, especially after what I said about transmissions in that last post, but it did/does feel nice to be in a manual again, but at the same time I find myself fantasizing about this car with a PDK and paddles. I have to admit: it�s fun heel toeing again after years of paddles and I like being able to coast in neutral, which one cannot do with the MDCT. The size difference on the exterior is great. It�s so nimble and it fits through gaps the M3 wouldn�t have. The interior, however, does not benefit from the reduction in size from the M3. I really, really liked the inside of that M3: the seats were excellent, the steering wheel is probably my favorite factory equipped steering wheel ever, the back seats had plenty of space for normal sized people, the trunk was enormous, the cabin was relatively quiet. Contrastly, the 996 interior, while not bad by any stretch, is a generation older than my M3 was, far smaller, and the seats are...I don�t want to offend, but I don�t think the seats in this car are anything to write home about, and the cabin noise is definitely noticeably louder. There�s also the lack of adjustment in both the seats and the wheel. I was worried about that, but this car might have the best driving position of any car I�ve ever driven. The M3 had plenty of adjustability, but I could never get it just right. Within seconds in the 996, I settled into a perfect driving position. That is extremely important to me and it obviously was to the 996 design team as well. I�m 5�9� and about 175 pounds with a 32� waist, if that helps give some reference. Aesthetics, I have to give to the M3. But it�s a close call. The M3 just has a more �designy� overall aesthetic, while the 996 is screaming, �FUNCTION!!� Form, as it�s said, does follow function, though, and the 996 Carrera is a gorgeous automobile to my eyes. edit* After installing lowering springs and spacers, this car looks better than the M3. Handling is completely different. It�s so weird not having any weight to speak of on the front axle. I can feel the rear digging in coming out of a corner while the front end, while still feeling relatively precise and confidence-inspiring, feels like it�s just skating across the pavement. It is an incredibly odd sensation that I think will be somewhat mitigated with the 245-section tires I plan to put up front. Sound: the S65B40 in the M3 sounds ****ing awesome. I�m American and I have always loved V8s and the sounds they make. Being an adult with some life experience now, I enjoy some refinement. The sound from that M3 was a good blend of raw and refined in a V8 and I think the same could be said of the 996 Carrera for an H6. The M96.03 doesn�t quite have the exotic sound of a 991 GT3, but it certainly doesn�t sound bland or ordinary. I am looking forward to the addition of a Tubi exhaust, though. Overall, I am extremely happy with the move. Like I said, it feels pretty lateral in some ways and I will always want an E9x M and as soon as I can have it without getting rid of this, it�ll be so. But if I had to choose between the two, and I did, I would (still) choose the 996 Carrera.

Well I posted another thread with some pictures of the 15mm spacers installed, but it hasn�t been approved by the moderators yet and I edited some photos on my iPhone anyway, so here they are.

I see from the shot at your house, you are down on the shore (I'm up on the Mass line). For paint correction, I went to the guys at Automobilia, in West Haven....they do ceramic coating and Xpel films, too...they did a nice job on my Ocean Blue Metallic when I had the ceramic coat done. I'll be honest, I am not sure if I would do the ceramic coat again or not, but their detailing/paint correction work was great. I know you are in the "IMS issue is overblown" camp, but your car is definitely not in the "its lasted this long" category with its low mileage, I'd definitely reconsider addressing it....its in the low use danger zone. Definitely keep an eye on the cooling system and the rest of the rubber...it is seals and rubber where you are likely to feel some pain due to the low usage. If you've read enough about the IMS, even if you wrench yourself, a rebuild is nothing to sneeze at cost wise.

Quotes source post: 15494950

This. Low mileage sweet spot. Mine was recently purchased with a IMS replacement last year and I’m losing a bit of sleep because the owner “only” drove it 1000 mi in the past year. Yeah, that level of paranoia is over the top but... Welcome to the funhouse of 996 ownership! TC

That level of paranoia?? Did I say the sky was falling...simply said he should "reconsider". If you think an old car with low mileage is a recipe for troublefree ownership, I'll take my "paranoia". My comment on not being in "it has lasted this long category" isn't a paranoiac one, either. Sorry, AA717, totally misinterpreted your post!

Quotes source post: 15495630

Apparently, my point wasn�t clear. I meant MY level of paranoia is over the top. You were right and paranoia is a good thing in the 996 community. 996 Low Miles=Red Flag. TC

Quotes source post: 15447317

TRUTH. I just installed a FabSpeed X-Pipe on my '99 (65k miles) I just picked up 2 months ago. WOW...it feels like a different engine! The power is definitely up, especially from 4k to 6.5k and pulls like a freight train. It's a bit louder than the stock, but a better sound, so all good. So far, I've solved the oil weeps by replacing all 6 spark plug tubes (threw in fresh plugs an coils while I was in there), and the 4-6 bank variocam solenoid cover. Next project will be IMS Solution, RMS and clutch. new FabSpeed x-pipe ready for installation!

I�ll be dropping the sump plate and cutting open the oil filter next weekend. I understand the points being made about seals and sitting too long and all that. I appreciate the concern. If there were any seals leaking enough to cause concern, I would�ve seen it by now. If not, I�ll see it next weekend and address whatever needs addressing. There is no amount of worrying or relatively inexpensive preventative fixes that will prevent the IMSB from grenading. If the qualification process for the installation of parts which were designed to remove the risk of IMSB failure show that there is no IMSB failure imminent, then there is no way to prove those parts� actual effectiveness in preventing IMSB failure. The ONLY way to really ensure an M96.03 like the one in my car is almost definitely not going to have IMSB issues is to disassemble the engine and rebuild it while replacing all the parts which are known causes of catastrophic failure. Not a single product on the market will prevent an IMSB failure. You can all tell yourselves those products help; to say so shows me you don�t know what you�re talking about or you�re trying to sell me something or both. If it puts minds at ease, I am a fan of the IMS Solution and will be installing one eventually. When it�s installed will depend on what I find when I drop the sump plate and cut open the filter. I�m hoping it�s not for many years. If someone can point me to any evidence at all that IMSB failure can be prevented by any other method than an engine rebuild then I�d obviously reconsider. But I�ve been looking for such evidence and there doesn�t seem to be any - just a lot of conjecture and salesmanship, and even that is wrapped with inordinate amounts of typical car forum ignorance. But hey, if you tell every single 996 owner that their IMSB is going to cause them grief, you�ll get to say �I told you so� to at least some of them. Hopefully you don�t get to say it to me. But even if you do, I wouldn�t have changed anything I�ve done or am planning to do.

"There is no amount of worrying or relatively inexpensive preventative fixes that will prevent the IMSB from grenading. If the qualification process for the installation of parts which were designed to remove the risk of IMSB failure show that there is no IMSB failure imminent, then there is no way to prove those parts’ actual effectiveness in preventing IMSB failure. The ONLY way to really ensure an M96.03 like the one in my car is almost definitely not going to have IMSB issues is to disassemble the engine and rebuild it while replacing all the parts which are known causes of catastrophic failure. Not a single product on the market will prevent an IMSB failure. You can all tell yourselves those products help; to say so shows me you don’t know what you’re talking about or you’re trying to sell me something or both. If it puts minds at ease, I am a fan of the IMS Solution and will be installing one eventually. When it’s installed will depend on what I find when I drop the sump plate and cut open the filter. I’m hoping it’s not for many years." ^^ Lots of circular logic going on here...So you're going to wait until you find debris in the sump before you change the IMS bearing? Makes zero sense. The IMS Solution WILL prevent bearing failure - period (plain bearings in these motors just don't fail...and yes, you've got to install it in a healthy engine). Unfortunately, "The Solution" doesn't address any of the other 26 modes of failure inherent to the M96. You can hope all you want, that won't change how the engine wears - especially when you're running it up to 6500 rpm so you can feel all that extra power from the X-pipe. Frequent oil changes (4000mi.) with a high quality oil is your best insurance against engine problems. Good luck with 'er, and do keep us appraised of any future upgrades/issues.

Nice example in Atlas Grey; don't see too many for sale or on RL. I purchased my Cab at 48,000 miles; coolant tank started leaking during first hot weather drive. Good luck! /X3

Quotes source posts: 15496546, 15496546, 15496546, 15496546

Incorrect. I�m not waiting to find debris, I�m going to be making sure there isn�t any. If there isn�t, an IMSB isn�t necessary because the one in there is fine and will last for over 100k miles easily. If there is debris, it already doesn�t qualify for any IMSB fix because the shaft itself is the issue, not the bearing. First part: incorrect. If the runout of the intermediate shaft is out of tolerance enough, it will destroy any bearing, including a journal/plain bearing. Second part: if the engine is healthy, it doesn�t need to be fixed. I know that logic is lost on the 996 crowd, but I�m used to that coming from an E9x M3. I know what �The Solution� fixes and what it doesn�t. Hope all I want about what? That my engine doesn�t experience catastrophic failure? Okay I�ll hope for that. And I know hoping won�t change how the engine wears...nor will changing a bearing at the end of a rotating shaft with too much runout prevent that bearing from failure. And that�s not my xpipe. My exhaust and entire engine is staying stock for a while. 4k mike oil changes are completely unnecessary. I�ll probably change it at anywhere from 5k-8k intervals. Synthetic oil doesn�t need to be changed as often as the 996 crowd thinks is necessary. Look guys, I�m not Jake Raby. I don�t have a giant family property with a huge shop and every tool imaginable. If I did, then I would probably be doing the exact same thing he is doing and I would probably go a whole lot deeper into working on this car when it doesn�t need it. In fact, as soon as I can I plan on taking his class and building myself a really nice 4 liter. But, for now and the foreseeable future, this is my only car and I live in an apartment with a parking garage (I was, when I bought the car a month ago, in a townhome with a garage and a compressor for the first time in a few years, but that didn�t work out and it�s a long story). I can appreciate that there are a lot of people that worry about the IMSB. If I hadn�t read/asked/researched as much about it as I had and didn�t have the automotive and aviation mechanical experience I do, then I�d probably be a whole lot more worried than I am. But, as long as I don�t see/hear/feel any pending disaster, I�m just going to enjoy this car. If it breaks, I will fix it and it will be expensive and life will suck for a short period of time. As much as I HATE this expression when used in the wrong context, it is very appropriate here: it�s just a car. It is a very, very special car, but a car nonetheless. I know of its issues and they will be monitored. I appreciate the concern. I can assure you this car will be well cared for, even if it�s not the way the 996 RL board thinks it should be done.

Quotes source post: 15448039

I am glad to see that someone so knowledgeable has kind of same opinion than me Congrats for your purchase

Quotes source post: 15496546

I know that this is the eternal debate However, I have to said, that I have realized that US 996 owners are, by far, the most paranoic with the IMS failure that I have ever read. I am from Europe, and, although the IMS failure is something that everybody agree can happen in these cars... is also assumed that is the exception, while here, it seems to be the rule: you have to do the IMS because it will fail yes or yes... It is on everybody option. And probably I will also end doing some IMS upgrade. But what I dont understand is that approach that you guys have here where it seems that every car is going to explode when they are actually quite bulletproof cars...

Quotes source post: 15496906

If you're already invested in the IMSB fix, there is no other rational approach. It is we who are paranoid. /X3

Before and after paint correction Before and after springs ​​​​​​​

Quotes source post: 15535880

​​​​​​​What did you use for the paint correction?

Quotes source post: 15535896

Washed with Dawn soap; Meguiars clay bar; Rupes LHR15 with Meguiars red foam pad & 105, yellow foam pad & 205.

Pictures ​​​​​​​

Stunning, very tasteful improvements!

Quotes source post: 15537663

Thanks! More pictures

Quotes source post: 15448060

Where did you get that build sheet? I would like to get the same for the car I am purchasing, but am struggling to find one. VIN Analytics doesn't come up with one. I ordered a buildsheet through Suncoast, but I can't really make heads or tails of the equipment list.

Kind of a bummer- I�ve been trying to get the car squared away so I can just drive/enjoy and maintain it for a couple years (or until I�m able to build it the way I really want to); the paint needed correcting, the leather needed conditioning, the oil needed changing, engine and cabin air filters needed replacing, ride height needed adjustment which led to alignment adjustments, wheels needed spacing for proper fitment, and the exhaust and shifter still need attention to get the car where I want it. There has been a vibration/shake in the steering wheel, but I don�t remember it being there when I drove the car home from the dealership from which it was purchased (it was an hour+ drive, so I would�ve noticed it). I�m pretty sure I remember feeling it since installing the spacers, but I�m not positive. Because I installed lowering springs, I took the car in for an alignment and got a balance at the same time thinking the balance would take care of the shake in the steering wheel. It helped, but it turned out I had a bent wheel in the rear. So, this morning I got the wheel straightened and took it back to Porsche to rebalance that wheel. I was so excited to finally get the car to a point where nothing bothers me about it to look at or drive it - to a point where, even if it isn�t how I�d want it in my wildest fantasies, it�s practically 99% of the way there (that last 1% isn�t necessary, it costs more than everything included in that 99%, but would be totally worth it if I had the means). Well, I got it back from Porsche and there�s still a vibration and the wheel still shakes. I�m pretty sure the problem is the spacers, but I don�t have the stock lug bolts with me. So I�ll have to take them off when I get back to where they are. It�s kind of a double edge sword cause I�m hoping the spacers are the issue, but then I�ll have to either get different spacers or wheels with proper fitment. The GT3 fitment is perfect to me, but the Turbo II is my favorite wheel design on a 996 and GT3 wheels don�t look right to me without the Aerokit bumpers and skirts. The thing is, if it�s not the spacers, whatever it is will be pricey: it could be tires or, in a worst case scenario, a bent hub (or something equally awful). If it ends up being the spacers, I�ll be sure to let everyone know how the brand from which I purchased them handles it. If it�s not the spacers...wish me luck.

Well, you wanted us to wish you good luck, so... Of course, there are many variables, but for my car, I needed new tires to get rid of my vibration at 70mph. Also, my car is VERY sensitive to tire pressure and balance.

Quotes source post: 15539676

It came with Continentals on it, so I very well may be in that same boat. 70mph is where it�s worst, but it�s also intermittent. I�d actually be really happy if the tires are the problem, even though it would mean I�d have to suffer through it until they wear out becaue I won�t replace them until then. Which tires did you have when you had your vibration and which ones went on when the problem was resolved?

Joey, what size rear tires are you running ?

First of all, love the color and congratulations. Second, when the tires were balanced, were they roadforce checked? Roadforce is essentially how round the tire is. You can get a tire shaped like an egg to balance out, but it will still cause a vibration. Since you mention the steering wheel shaking, I think you can effectively rule out anything from the rear causing it. Since you mentioned it happening after installing spacers, I would double check that first and foremost. Make sure both the hub surface and the wheel are perfectly clean. It doesn't take much rust to cause an issue. Also, make sure the center of the spacer fits tight to the center of the wheel. If not, you will need to get hubcentric rings to create a tight fit. Your wheels are designed to center themselves with the small ring that protrudes from the center of the hub, they are not designed to center with the lug bolts.

At this point the easiest and quickest thing to check is the spacers. Remove them, drive it, and if it solves it, you've eliminated a lot of other variables including the tires and your suspension. As noted by others, even if it IS the spacers, it may be how the wheels and spacers were mounted (not sure how foolproof this is). Good Luck. We both got our first 996s recently, but you are digging into the mods, refinishing and upgrades much faster than I am!

Quotes source posts: 15541052, 15541069, 15541096

Stock size for Turbo Look II: 285/30-18 Thank you! I love this color, especially now that the clear coat isn�t inundated with swirl marks and scratches and one can really see the metallic flakes. To be honest, I don�t know if they Roadforce balanced. I didn�t specifically request it, so I assume they did not. That could very well be the issue; or at least part of it. For example, when I got the bent wheel straightened, the shake/vibration got better. The balance also helped. Sometimes there�s no vibration at all and it feels perfect. My theory is that the spacers aren�t perfectly flat and that causes runout in the axis about which each wheel rotates. Sometimes, the vibrations caused by the runout on each side are behaving in such a way that they cancel each other out. Going around a long curve on the interstate, I can feel the vibration coming and going at a rate that seems to correspond to the severity of the curve, which makes me think the difference in rotational speed of each of the front wheels is causing the vibration of each side to go in and out of harmony. Thank you for the installation advice. I�ve installed spacers, as well as a multitude of other parts, on various vehicles, be they land-going, aerial, etc. I am very thorough and meticulous about my work. I am certain I installed them properly, but I will definitely be removing them, cleaning all surfaces, reinstalling wheels without spacers, test driving, removing wheels and cleaning mounting surfaces again, reinstalling spacers to make absolutely certain the spacers are the cause, which I am all but convinced they are. I would be thrilled if this was a case of me missing something on the install. Also, the spacers are indeed hubcentric. Thank you and congratulations on your recent acquisition! I was recently screwed over on what was supposed to be a year contract - the silver lining is that I have some extra time on my hands, which I have spent hanging out with my brother and working on the 911...but I�m super broke and my credit is stretched kinda thin at the moment. I�ll be okay though. I�ll be taking the spacers back off tomorrow, so I�ll update the thread once I do that.

That is a beautiful looking car you got right now.

Quotes source post: 15544394

Thank you! I agree. I am extremely happy with this car.

Quotes source post: 15540063

Started with Pirelli P zeros which came with the car, Didn�t notice the vibration on the test drive. Did not like how those tires performed in any way. Replaced with Hankook RS3 and vibration was gone.

Joey, I�m enjoying your story. Picked up my �00 cab in September and am really enjoying it. I�m at 28k miles now; am familiar with low mileage horror stories. Definitely not a daily driver though. Like you, and many others, I was fearful of the IMS. And like you, I�m monitoring it - magnetic drain bolt, cutting oil filter pleats open every 2000 miles. I intend to change the bearing soon, but not really afraid of it as much as when I first bought the car. Im also a subscriber to the �92% chance that it won�t fail� camp. I�m maybe a 2-banana mechanic, so I wrench a little on it (coolant flush, oil changes, coolant tank) so I would never attempt a bearing change. Next on my agenda will be the water pump and hoses (due to the age of the car). I�m super-impressed with the paint repair. My car is in very good condition, but I believe some novice attempted to use a buffer on it and in bright sunlight, the swirls are bad. It�s dark green and I�m in Ohio so there�s not much bright sun so it�s nit usually a big deal. Anyway - thanks for the post and welcome. Press on. -Jim

Quotes source posts: 15544864, 15544871

Interesting. How many miles did you drive on the Pirellis before you replaced them? I�ve gotten mixed reviews about Pirelli tires, but I�ve never had them on a car I owned. I assume, with RS3s on there, you don�t drive the car often. I want the PS4Ss, but they don�t have the sizes I need. I loved my PSSs. Thank you Jim and congratulations on the cabriolet! I�ve read enough conflicting information about the catastrophic failures of these cars to conclude that nobody really knows what�s going on, but some know enough to make some money off of the hysteria. Good for them - if I had money to burn, they�d have some of it. But I�m just gonna enjoy this car and take care of it and, if it breaks, I�ll fix it. Unless I win the lottery, or meet an investor that likes crazy ideas; in that case, I will take this car apart completely and restore it to absolutely perfect, better-than-factory-new condition and build a nasty 4 liter mated to a brand new 997 GT3 transmission with all 7.2 GT3 running gear, center lock and all, with hand made carbon fiber wheels styled like the Turbo II with 6.2 GT3 sizes and offsets. Then I would drive it across the country to different race tracks and automotive events. It�d get a lot if real-world testing on the carbon fiber wheels accomplished, for the possibility of commercial opportunities, while having a lot of fun and meeting car people. But I dream and digress. As far as the paint correction goes, I think the credit has to go mostly to the tools and chemicals I used. It still isn�t perfect, but it was fun learning. Anyway, I took the spacers off this morning and test drove it without them. Then reinstalled and test drove again. I wire brushed the surfaces each time. I can confidently say that the spacers are definitely the cause of the vibration. But the vibration seems to have been significantly reduced somehow. Maybe the test drive wasn�t long enough. Regardless, it seems livable now, so I�ll just roll with it until I can get some GT2 front wheels which don�t need spacers to achieve the same effective offset as I have now with spacers and are a half inch wider. Here�s a before and after the holiday Florida trip (the wheels are filthy and the car hasn�t had a proper wash, just quick detailer, since I got back) in almost the same place and time of morning. The parking lights are on in the second picture.

Congrats. Has to be one of the freshest 996’s in the country.

Quotes source post: 15545786

Joey would you mind recommending what you would purchase if you were going to do a paint correction for the first time? I see Chemical Guys have a kit with their polisher, and I see Maguiars also offers a paint correction kit, though I would need to pick up a polisher also. I think my car could really benefit from doing this to it. I don't have a problem paying somebody to do it, but I really get a lot of enjoyment out of doing things like this myself so I think I would like to try it.

Quotes source post: 15545786

The Pirellis had about 8000 miles from the previous owner. I ran the RS3s for 5000 miles and several track days (great tires, I love them). I now have Michelin Sport Cup 2s to achieve the rear tire size that I was looking for (295). What tire size are you looking for? Many times there are substitutes sizes that are close.

Quotes source posts: 15545883, 15545918, 15546084

Thanks man! I�m very lucky to have it. I looked at a lot of products and kits and decided to use brands I either know/have personal experience with and/or brands that are the undeniable standard in the professional detailing industry from my research. That search was, as most internet searches are, extremely convoluted and filled with conflicting information. It wasn�t easy to weed out all the noise, but I�m pretty happy with the results of the stuff I used. As as far as chemicals go, I think it�s pretty subjective. I�ve had some very positive experiences with Meguiars; not just the products, but the company itself (long story). Sometimes I like a competing product better (ex. Mother�s Showtime is better, in my opinion, than the equivalent Meguiars spray wax/detailer) and I buy Meguiars instead because I like them as a brand and their products are, at the very least, as good as one needs. Their 105 (cutting compound), however, has no equal according to detailers whose opinions I value. I figured I�d use the 205 (polish) since it�s part of a system and it was my first time doing this. There are a lot of great polishes out there, apparently. As for the polisher, I highly recommend the Rupes LHR15. It is second to none. The LHR21 has a larger backing plate and uses larger pads, which is great for doing larger panels quickly (the numbers �15� and �21� are indicative of the number of millimeters in the �throw� of the random orbital action, so the LHR21 gets more work done within a certain period of time and has a larger footprint). But for a driveway detailer that is only doing their own car and whose livelihood doesn�t depend upon how quickly they can get a detail done, the smaller (5�) pads are more versatile and can be used more easily on more challenging, curvy panels. Even if one were planning to get several different size polishers, I�d still say the LHR15 would be the first one to get. One can decide for themselves if they need the updated versions: I opted for the original as it was cheaper and I figured, correctly, that it was everything I needed. I�ve watched a lot of the AMMO NYC videos, among many others, to get a very good idea of what to do with the polisher before I even bought one. But one really needs to learn this stuff by trial and error, I have found. This is what I�d recommend: You�ll definitely need to clay bar before you polish. Meguiars foam pads: three red and three yellow (I used one of each and it was a mistake; there is a �three-pad system� that I have since learned about and will use in the future). Meguiars 105&205. A LOT of microfiber towels and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol (keeping the panels clean and free of any oils, waxes, etc. is very important). Painters tape. There is apparently a tool for removing the pads that I wish I�d had. I meet detailers that have been professionals for a decade or better that say they learn something new all the time, so watch a lot of videos and learn as much as you can from several different, even opposing, perspectives before you start. In my opinion, the kits all have too little of what you need and stuff you don�t need. I think they�re good for someone planning to correct paint on several different cars; that may be your intention, but it was not mine so I didn�t get a kit. Bottom line: the Rupes LHR15 is, from my perspective, to a paint correction what the flat bench, squat, and dead lift are to a resistance training routine - absolutely essential and irreplaceable. I used Meguiars products and am very happy with the results. I want to run the stock 285/30-18 on the back and 245/35-18 on the front. I�ve looked for several combinations of sizes close to those and haven�t found anything I know I like. Except for the Sport Cup 2, but I need tires that last at least 25k. I could do the PS4S in 265/35 in rear, I suppose. We�ll see.

A few more pictures from today

As for the tires, I see what you mean about the rear sizes!! What about the Pilot Sport PS2? I am not so familiar with that model.

Quotes source post: 15547223

I really like Michelin tires, but the PS2 has a couple problems for me: I�ve never had them before, so I don�t have any long term, first hand experience with them; they have a 220 tread wear rating, which isn�t gonna work for my only car; and the biggest problem is that they don�t come in 245/35-18, which is what I want to have on the front of my car. Otherwise, especially since they have the �N4 Porsche� PS2s, I�d get them in a heartbeat (but I�ve read they�re pretty stiff and, although adequate in the wet, they�re not the best and I�ll be living in Florida again soon so I have to take wet traction into account more so than the other states I�ve been living in the past few years). The 17� wheels on the base Carrera were equipped with 255-width rear tires. Considering that the power output is the same whether one chooses the 18� wheel option(s), which stepped up the width of the rear tires by 30mm to 285, or sticks with the base wheel, I see no reason one couldn�t have 265-width rear tires on this car. So I�m thinking the 245/35&265/35 PS4S combo would work just fine. 285 is pretty wide for a 10� wide wheel anyway. But hopefully 285/30-18 becomes available in the PS4S by the time I need to buy tires.

The squeaking noise coming from the passenger rear of the car is getting louder. It only happens when the car is moving and is not engine speed dependent, so that makes me feel a little better. The squeaking doesn�t change frequency with speed; it reaches a certain frequency and gets to its loudest at about 40mph and just stays the same any speed above that. I�ve ruled out wind noise. I took the rear wheels off and looked around. It looks like a car with 25k miles - that is to say it�s not showroom new cleanliness, but parts don�t look worn, clips are all intact, lines and hoses all look good, etc. Tomorrow I�ll be taking the rear rotors off to see if it has anything to do with the parking brake spring as I found that a guy with a 964 had a similar issue and that spring was broken (on both rear brakes) and loose inside the rotor making squeaking noises. I hope this car isn't one of those that there is always some annoying problem to chase down. I�d really just like to drive and enjoy it and spend my energy on maintaining and improving it, not fixing stupid nonsense.

Quotes source post: 15548706

My advice, DRIVE IT! Just because it only has 25k miles doesn't make it any younger, thats what people for get about cars. Things wear out over time, sometimes more so when they sit. Miles on a car are just ONE aspect, and not the only important factor. Example, the water company was doing work on my street so I was out there talking to one of the "supervisors" and his Jeep was running (he wasn't in it). and I asked him if he lets it run all day. His response, "yes sir, all day every day." Point being that the water company will eventually sell that, and maybe it has 50k miles on in, when in reality that engine has ran longer than cars with 150k miles. Get my point? Just drive the car and enjoy it, they are a blast.

Quotes source post: 15548722

I bought the car in November with 21k miles. I�ve since driven it from Connecticut to North Carolina to Florida and back to North Carolina. While I was in Florida I was driving back and forth from my mom�s and brother�s places, which are about 30 miles apart, almost every day for a couple weeks. Soon I�ll be starting a job that�ll have a 28 mile (one way) commute back in Florida, so I�ll be driving back in a couple weeks. I promise, this car gets driven. I can�t own a car and not drive it.

Removed the right rear rotor and inspected behind it then reinstalled; adjusted the right side parking brake shoe adjustment screw until rotor would not turn then backed off 9 slots; test drove and experienced the same squeaking noise. I�m thinking it could be wind noise again because I can�t think of anything else it could possibly be. The car drives great otherwise and every inspection I do makes me happier I bought it. Anyway, here�s some pictures.

Quotes source post: 15539315

Matt, I�m sorry for not replying to this earlier. I totally missed it. I got it from VIN Analytics.

So I�ve had the car now for 2 months and put something like 4,012 miles on it. With my brother�s help (and driveway and some of his tools), I�ve changed the oil, replaced air filter, replaced the cabin filter with a Mann charcoal filter, installed H&R Sport springs (part# 29513-2 for cabrio/targa which have slightly stiffer rear springs), cleaned radiators, fixed frunk microswitch, replaced frunk and engine lid lights, conditioned interior leather, and corrected the paint. The front right brake/hub area has developed some kind of squeaking, but it�s not the end of the world. As I have removed panels and components and been able to inspect behind things, I am impressed with the condition of this car as well as Porsche engineering. There have been a couple annoying things about working on it (the frunk latch cover, the rear strut bottom bolt), but it�s mostly been a pleasure. I don�t think I�ll ever be able to live without a 911 again; I think it�s the perfect personal conveyance for me. I definitely want the newest 911, but I hope I never have to get rid of this car. I�m really looking forward to the next couple years of mods - the next of which will be the Numeric Racing shifter and cables. Next highest on the priority list is the exhaust. I wanted to do the Tubi mufflers and call it a day, but after a lot of looking around I decided I�ll try the Speedtech stuff: headers, side cans, and race x pipe. I�ll have it tuned when that stuff goes on. If I get the exhaust on and it doesn�t sound as awesome as I think it will, I�ll add the Tubi cans and see if it makes a difference. By the time that stuff is installed, it�ll probably be about time to change the tires. I�m pretty set on doing 285/35&235/40 (maybe 245/40 on the GT2 8.5� front wheel) Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. The choices for the 30-series rear tires are quite limited and I think the tire is too small anyway. I�m sure the small diameter contributes greatly to the overall dynamic character of the car and if it loses that to any significant degree I�ll try the PS2 in stock sizes. I was planning on getting coilovers, but I�m pretty happy with this ride height and have read some good stuff about the Koni golds, so I might give those a try first (unless this car becomes a weekend toy, in which case coilovers are a certainty). Eventually I�d like to get GT3 carriers/brakes and go crazy with suspension mods, but that�s not high on my priority list yet. I really love driving and looking at this car.

She's a beauty! But you need to change your Avatar now

Quotes source post: 15560514

Ya I need to make a new one out of the headlights on my car. I might do that this weekend.

Quotes source post: 15560401

Me too! I sometimes walk to the back window just to look at it, incredible cars, incredible looks!