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YOUR RESEARCHEngine start issue
Leading reported evidence
Check earth straps
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Leading evidence: 'Check earth straps' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check battery cables' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check contacts ?what is the voltage measured at the cable
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Suggestion
That would indicate the solenoid is not closing the contacts -I am assuming that this is with the key in start position .Take the solenoid apart and check the contacts ?What is the voltage measured at the cable ?
Check contacts ?what is the voltage measured at the cable
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Suggestion
That would indicate the solenoid is not closing the contacts -I am assuming that this is with the key in start position .Take the solenoid apart and check the contacts ?What is the voltage measured at the cable ?
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Suggestion
If you jump start at the cable lug (right above the a/c compressor) and the engine fires up, you need to check the positive battery cable at the battery post.
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Hello,
Any thoughts or help appreciated.
I've read all similar posts on every 911 forum known to mankind and anyone with similar fault never posts back the outcome :-(
Drove car few days ago (2001 996 carrera 4 tip)
Car had no fault codes and still has no fault codes (Durametric)
Tried to start and no crank just clunk from starter soloniod.
Checked starter relay all volts and ground when and where they should be, fuel pump relay too.
Checked earth straps
Checked ignition switch
no clutch switch it's a tip.
Tried without RFid transponder in key, no clunk from soloniod so presumably immobiliser all correct (alarm LEDs status =normal).
Only thing that bothers me before following my gut and buying a new starter motor is when I tested at my fuel pump and ignition on I saw no volts as if to prime pump?
I thought it would do the before trying to crank.
Is this correct till CPS detects movement or am I missing something?
Or does it look more like the fault is the CPS.
Ideas?
Thanks.
Just a clunk doesn't sound like a fuel pump to me.
Also a bad CPS won't prevent the engine from turning over, unless the engine is locked.(i.e. hydro locked due to leaking fuel injector)
Check the voltage when you try to crank it and you hear the clunk.
Is it still 12V, or does it drop down much lower?
A low battery, or battery cable, will give you 12V until you put a large load(i.e. Starter) on it and then it will drop down much lower.
Yep forgot to add battery is new.
no drop off trying to start.
Not questioning the pump. questioning the event of not seeing it prime on ignition switch.
Battery is 850cca
Thanks
I am no expert but I'd start with the starter - it may have or is just about to turn 18 years old if it's original. Cops a fair bit of punishment and heat due to its location.
Even if it was the fuel pump I would assume it would at least cranck but not start?
You've checked all your fuses right?
Does pin 30 of the starter relay have +12v when you turn the key to crank? If yes, with the starter relay removed, put a fat jumper to bridge pin 30 and pin 87 (yellow wires) and then turn the key. If the starter still does not crank, it's likely you have a starter or starter solenoid problem.
A clunk and nothing else sounds like a hung starter. If the top starter bolt works loose enough, the starter can droop and engage incorrectly with the flywheel. Never seen this on my 986 or 996, but it's not uncommon - had it happen on my Corvette within the past year or so.
If you have one, you could use a lighted inspection camera/borescope to peek in around the intake hardware and verify that the starter is at least not drooping.
Thanks Ahsai, that's exactly what I had done, and still hadn't fired so I had drawn the conclusion of starter.
Just bit miffed at not seeing the pump prime.
Thanks.
The fuel pump will only prime for about one second when you turn the key and you should be able to hear that.
I agree that it's likely your starter then since you don't feel any current draw, which would have been the case if the engine is seized up.
Makes sense, I think it's too quick for my meter to even take a reading.
Typically after removing the starter, when I first put it on the beach and tested it only soloniod worked but after hitting it seems to run 99% of the time but seems kinda lazy.
I'll be back when I know more.
Think I'll just go for new instead and rebuild this one for another time!
Definitely go for a new one from Bosch. Less than $200
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SR0808N-New-Starter/dp/B000EPSYG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547064366&vehicle=2002-2-10-55--7-6-7-22737-31-1-1-534--18-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2002%3Aporsche%3A911
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SR0808N-New-Starter/dp/B000EPSYG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547064366&vehicle=2002-2-10-55--7-6-7-22737-31-1-1-534--18-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2002%3Aporsche%3A911
Lol, normally I would but right after Xmas and just bought another new car so it probably won't be
turned out to be a band winding, soloniod was as suspected perfectly fine just the Motor bad.
The Bosch is double that in the UK :-(
Thanks for the help buddy.
So got a replacement starter, tested it before putting it in.( All good)
Now same thing, soloniod sounds like it throws out but no crank?
battery volts good drop test good
Earth good
Relays good
Fuses good
ignition switch switches relays therefore good.
engine turns by hand and flywheel moves.
Anyone?
Excellent suggestion and in fact I was gonna suggest the same but saw the OP already removed the starter.
If you jump start at the cable lug (right above the a/c compressor) and the engine fires up, you need to check the positive battery cable at the battery post. That short cable connects to the power distribution and the nut could have come loose.
Just follow that cable from the trunk to the firewall.
Checked the y splitter cable and block to chasis.
It's definitely not enough amps or a short but the CCA of the battery is fine
Just had it tested as I was doubting my own tester.
Its 800cca Bosch S5
I'll try that tomorrow, so far I've only done it on the battery.
But tomorrow I'll start at the starter and work backwards,
I'll have to get my daughter to be my little helper.
Thanks to everyone so far much appreciated.
There are two connectors on the starter solenoid. One is the main battery cable connection that should be "hot" all the time, and is the main supply of battery amps. The other connector is 12V that is supplied by the ignition switch to kick the starter solenoid in so the main battery connection is supplying the main amps to turn the starter over.
That would indicate the solenoid is not closing the contacts -I am assuming that this is with the key in start position .Take the solenoid apart and check the contacts ?What is the voltage measured at the cable ?
Well I know it don't really help but after lots of pulling twisting and tightnitig it now Turns over.
so it was a ground or a live somewhere but I'm buggered if I can tell you where apart from somewhere between the battery and the car lol.
Thanks a million for your patience guys
Now let's burn some rubber!
Going to tighten the whole car to 150ftlbs now too
