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YOUR RESEARCHChange oil right after a DE?
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Run a/c while
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The MK2 seems to run cool enough that I run the A/C while on track also.
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The MK2 seems to run cool enough that I run the A/C while on track also.
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In fact, my MK1 ran cooler with one fan removed completely.
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It's worth checking (mostly for in city driving as I said above- I don't think an inoperative fan would have much of an impact once at speed).
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Suggestion
But a day of racing isn't going to add much in filth to your engine oil so unless you really want to search for bits and pieces to check on failures in the engine that oil change after DE's I don't think is needed.
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But a day of racing isn't going to add much in filth to your engine oil so unless you really want to search for bits and pieces to check on failures in the engine that oil change after DE's I don't think is needed.
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I was just wondering what the opinions were for everyone here. I was speaking with my father who owns an auto shop and he suggested after such hard use I should change my oil as a precaution.
I just changed it right before the DE so what do most of you do here?
He's not a Porsche-specific mechanic but he does know engines and thought it would be cheap insurance.
Opinions?
No way a DE is going to beat up the oil enough to warrant a change...especially if it was changed before the event. Track usage is actually a lot less severe than stop and go driving for the oil.
^+1. If it is a mainly DE miles, 1600 to 2000 miles is a good time to change. Your revs during DE is typically double of street driving so changing your oil in 1/2 the mileage should be more than safe if you look at it this way. This also does not taken into consideration highway driving on the way there and back.
Its not only the increased revs, but the increased oil temp during a DE. Water temp gauge on mine during a DE/PDS was almost redline for four 20 minute sessions. The oil is getting cooked a lot faster than just sitting in traffic. Oil brand and viscosity and which additives they have will certainly be a part of the equation.
WHOA!! I missed that - near redline???
YOU HAVE A COOLING SYSTEM PROBLEM
My guess is your impeller is missing some fins OR the radiators are very very very plugged with "stuff"
But if I had to bet, i would say its the waterpump impellers
As others have said, your radiators may clogged and should perhaps invest in the time to do the radiator fan mod. Cost for parts is $12 at radio shack for two switches. My temp gauge never passes middle of "0" with the fan on during DE.
If the water temp has been that high for tose lengths of time then I'd imagine during those times you have had some radiator expansion tank losses of fluid. Check the resevoir to make sure you don't need to add fluid. I wouldn't be running my car pegged on the temp gauge especially driving the car hard.
I had an MK1 996 that ran toasty as well. After cleaning/rinsing the radiators (just the outside to get deposits off) the gauge stayed near the 0. The MK2 seems to run cool enough that I run the A/C while on track also. MK1s could handle this on cooler days as well. Anyway, I don't think the fan mod would help on track, as the airflow is not the issue when the car's at speed. Quite a few race teams actually remove one of the fans for better air flow, and that's how the street GT3 is sold as well, of course they have an extra radiator, so that's not a direct comparison.
As for oil changes, I generally do 5-7k on synthetic with mixed use. I don't think a typical DE is particularly hard on oil, if the temperatures are under control. When I used to do more track events, I put 50k miles on an M3 with ~2 events/week, it had 210k+ miles when I moved to my first 996, it'd never had any issues.
Also, as a side note, 2 of the 996s I bought had one fan that wasn't working. It's worth checking (mostly for in city driving as I said above- I don't think an inoperative fan would have much of an impact once at speed).
I believe its the combination of speed and RPM that changes engine temperature; not speed alone. The engine runs much cooler in 6th gear at 100 MPH vs 4th so to say that speed alone will keep the engine cool is not 100% correct.
Changing oil before and after gives a fresh oil for the racing where changing afterwards lets you know if anything broke up in the engine if you are searching your oil for engine problems after draining. But a day of racing isn't going to add much in filth to your engine oil so unless you really want to search for bits and pieces to check on failures in the engine that oil change after DE's I don't think is needed.
If a guy stores his car over winters its always good to change the oil BEFORE storing so that acids built up in dirty oil doesn't pit parts harming the engine.
But if throwing new oil in the car isn't a costly affair to you then its no big deal to change before and after. I've had instances of changing my sport bikes oil because I wanted to double flush it once in a while. I just figure it gets the max of old stuff away from the bearings.
Chao, my comments are regarding airflow across the radiators. Let me put it this way;
It's not the lack of airflow that makes the engines run warmer on track. In fact, my MK1 ran cooler with one fan removed completely. Turning the fan(s) on early may help in stop and go traffic, or at lower speeds however. That said, they seem to do fine with clean radiators from my experience, even on track.
I've heard a mechanic mention that the plastic water pump impellers can wear down and reduce flow as well, but I have not run into that personally.
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