Oil Drip

I've had my car up on a lift for a couple weeks working on a few projects. I noticed a small drip on the floor (size of a nickel). Appears to be coming from this bolt/plug but I'm not sure what it's going to. As a quick reference, this is looking at the "front" of the motor where the main seal to the transmission is. While the area around the main seal is dirty, I don't see any active leaks other than right at this plug. It appears to be going into some reservoir/cooler? Almost looks like there is a crush washer there as well. haven't tried to take it out or tighten it as I'm having a hard time finding any reference to it. Your help is appreciated. Dan

Timing chain tensioner.

That's one of the 3 hydraulic chain tensioners (I believe it's the IMS chain tensioner judging by location - but I'm not positive). Yes, there should be an aluminum crush washer between it and the case. I think it's supposed to be torqued to around 60 ft/lbs. You might want to check that it's properly torqued (check the spec as well...).

For my education, the chain tensioner "chambers" are lubricated with engine oil? I can look up in the service manual but just in case I need to remove it, I assume I need to drain the oil. I'm just curious what the purpose of having this bolt/plug is for? You can evacuate the oil in that chamber without draining the entire motor? I appreciate the responses.

This part ensures the timing chains are tight as they need to be so they don't have any slack in them which would cause the engine to "jump timing". You don't drain the oil from there. Use the provided oil drain on the oil sump plate to drain your oil.

Here's a good thread to start reading https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...placement.html

Yup, timing chain tensioner. Take a closer look to make sure it isn't leaking form above and just dripping down there though. Yikes, adding this - important that you read up on the procedure - pin/lock the crank at TDC at the crank pulley and lock the camshafts. There are special tools for this. I have the kit from LN engineering. Drain oil, remove tensioner (ungodly large socket required), replace crush washer, reassemble and retorque. Lots of work for a $0.49 aluminum sealing ring. While you're there, might as well replace the o-ring (and if you are adventurous, soak them in heated marvel mystery oil). Maybe do it at the next oil change interval? Sealing Ring, 27 X 32 Part #: 900-123-147-3 Timing Chain Tensioner O-Ring, (18.77 X 1.78 mm) Part #: 999-707-344-40

Double check the torque. When I put mine back in, it leaked, then I tightened it up a hair more and the leak stopped. If you're going to remove it to replace the washer - do some research and verify whether or not its necessary to lock the cams when removing the tensioners.

When I zoom in on my picture, I'm not confident now that there is a crush washer. I thought I saw it last night when I was inspecting it but I will double check. Looking at an article on Pelican, this appears to be the tensioner for cylinders 1-3 since it has the double concentric circle markings (the IMS tensioner has 1). I can't tell from searching yet if locking the cam is required to remove this tensioner. This is a 2004 C2 by the way. Here's another photo showing the tensioner head a little clearer. Can anyone confirm if I need to lock the cam to replace?

Diagram I was referring to on Pelican showing the different tensioner markings

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I believe the latest versions of the cam tensioners have different markings. There was a thread about this a while back where someone ordered a new one and thought they received the wrong part - it turned out they just changed. The one in your picture is on the driver's side and facing down - bank 1 (cylinder 1-3) I believe. The other one, is on the passenger side and by the oil filter and if I remember correctly is horizontal.

Genuine Porsche - New/Replacement R99610518602 Parts 24, 25 and 37 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-10

Yes it is the tensioner on driver side and pointing down to the ground. It appears all of this is consistent that this is bank 1 tensioner. If I need to remove the tensioner to replace the crush washer, do I need to lock the cam? I have been searching for a while and I haven't found any reference that is simply removing the tensioner. All references that I have found have been part of IMSB replacement. I obviously need to get a different shop manual because I can't find much reference to this at all. Again this is the 3.6L 2004 motor. thanks in advance

The thread I had posted said you don't have to lock cams.

I can neither confirm nor deny the need for cam locking. I was removing my IMSB flange when I did mine, so everything was locked down. Other than the cost of the extra green cam plug oil seal, I can't see any good reason to NOT lock it down. Well, then again, I already have to tools, and maybe you don't. I don't think there is any harm in locking the cams and crank, but I'm just a DIYer not a pro mechanic. I'd rather do that than risk any issues with cam chains slipping, losing cam timing, etc. That sounds like a more complex and involved situation that I'd like to avoid.

Any suggestions for finding a cam lock tool only? I see the IMS replacement kit which includes this but I'm just trying to replace the crush washer on the bank 1 tensioner. I read somewhere that a dowel of the right size can be used to lock the crank at TDC. Just seem crazy to spend $250 for a kit jut to get the tool that I need. I haven't been able to find a source.

This will work on your MkII https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Cam...YAAOSwsE1aF0H-

Try an 8mm bolt.

"Try an 8mm bolt." Do you mean for the crank lock? I was under the impression that the cam lock was a special shape but I haven't seen the tool or got to the point of trying to look at this on my engine.

The cam lock is pretty straight forward. For some reason I think I've seen the locking tools by themselves on eBay. Make sure you get the right one for your engine - 3 chain or 5 chain - they're different. If you are on a tight budget, but good with tools, I bet you could make one with some steel bar, a jigsaw and angle grinder that would get the job done. There is a $150 buy it now on the whole tool kit - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Box...paRaeZ&vxp=mtr Says it is genuine LN Engineering. I think I paid a lot more for mine.

Thanks CDS. I saw that on ebay as well. I may just buy that. It's $250 on LN's site so not a huge difference. I haven't changed out my IMS yet so maybe that will be a future project. I will probably do this when I need to change out clutch (I watch oil/filter/and drain plug for issues normally).

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I believe LN now has a loaner program for the tools if you buy an IMS bearing from them. Check it out before you spend the cash. Also, I had to remove my bank 2 tensioner to replace the crush washer last week. I put the engine TDC, locked it in place with a piece of 3/16" steel rod, and then remove and reinstalled the tensioner. No problems. I did a lot of reading and found plenty of people that have done the same with no ill effects. There are also people that say you should lock the cam - but I couldn't find any examples of where it caused a problem by not locking it. Once I had the tensioner back in, I turned the engine (by hand) 2 full rotations to make sure there wasn't anything binding or coming into contact. Cheers Charlie