21 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHStarter Motor
Reported or suspected cause
cable
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
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0
Suspected cause
0
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Reported cause
Pulled it all apart put it all back together only to discover it was the cable on the TB!
Leading evidence: 'cable' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cable' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair noisy bosch starter motor' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Reported cause · Original poster
When I got to work I turned of the engine and then started again to find the problem had gone but I'm thinking it was due to the fact the car was real cold.
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Suggestion
Guys sorry to resurrect an old thread, i'm planning on replacing my starter with a new Bosch unit soon.
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Suggestion
We used one really long extension and were able to get the torque wrench on but we did have the alternator removed to replace the starter cable so that helped.
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Suggestion
With so much stuff removed to replace the starter, make sure on backing out of the job you check and double check the vacuum lines and connections, particularly the resonance flap vacuum line.
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Suggestion
Standard torque is enough (good luck getting a torque wrench in there, or even getting an accurate torque with so many extensions and swivels needed to tighten the M10 bolts).
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Suggestion
Use a socket with straight extension the length of the starter, THEN a swivel and long extension to angle up over the top of the alternator to your ratchet, works as well as anything.
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Reported cause · Original poster
When I got to work I turned of the engine and then started again to find the problem had gone but I'm thinking it was due to the fact the car was real cold.
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21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Good Morning,
I left my car outside (2003 Targa C2) and it got pretty cold. I started my P car and the starter motor didn't disengage for a split second making a noise like the engine was driving the motor. When I got to work I turned of the engine and then started again to find the problem had gone but I'm thinking it was due to the fact the car was real cold. I'm looking for thoughts from you guys to head off a problem before its a real problem....Thoughts?
Could be the starter bendix hung up on the flywheel for a split second because it was cold and didn't move back quick enough. There is some grease on the starter shaft that the bendix rides on. Move to a warmer climate!
Its rare that the car sits outside overnight......You're saying lube the shaft....LOL......Just wondering if maybe the starter motor needed shimming a slight bid.....is that acceptable practice? The starter itself maybe tired 60K miles and it sounds like it could be a little slow....I would have to listen to another car to make a for sure statement.....Thanks
No shimming. What I was saying was the grease lube on the shaft may have been so cold that it hung up the bendix for a second. At 60K miles, and a noticeable slow start, not a bad idea to consider a new Bosch starter. You can get one off Amazon.
Surprisingly more ignition switches than starters act up with these cars.
Could be the ignition switch was slow to move back to the on/run position.
If the starter pinion gear is in fact dragging on the shaft and causing the overrun clutch to well overrun the symptom should appear again.
And it might not.
I had this behavior with my Boxster a while back but the noise went away on its own and has been gone now for a while. Don't know how long it has been gone other than I know it didn't appear this winter so maybe the winter before?
Either lube it if you don't care about the labor or replace it with a new Bosch one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EPSYG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492819650&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&vehicle=2002-2-10-55--7-6-7-3122-31-1-1-534--18-0&dpPl=1&dpID=41lMnYFRuRL&ref=plSrch
if your starter motor is behind the alternator as it is on the 996, be very careful removing the alternator. There are small evap lines around there which will break in a heart beat causing you lots of untold DIY work..
Guys sorry to resurrect an old thread, i'm planning on replacing my starter with a new Bosch unit soon.
One question: do the two M10 bolts holding the starter in place require any blue loctite for extra strength or is the standard torque (below) enough?
The factory manual makes no reference to using locktite but it does in other places so i'm assuming its not required but I did want to check.
I've replaced the starter motor several times. No loctite needed or used. Standard torque is enough (good luck getting a torque wrench in there, or even getting an accurate torque with so many extensions and swivels needed to tighten the M10 bolts). With so much stuff removed to replace the starter, make sure on backing out of the job you check and double check the vacuum lines and connections, particularly the resonance flap vacuum line. You don't want to have to "go back in" to run down a vacuum leak or intake system leak.
Thanks Joe,
Got this done on a fellow Australian forum members '99 on the weekend. We used one really long extension and were able to get the torque wrench on but we did have the alternator removed to replace the starter cable so that helped.
We actually did break some lines because they were so brittle, replaced them and it was fixed... Or so we thought. The throttle cable was slightly jammed causing a high idle which we thought was the vacuum lines! Pulled it all apart put it all back together only to discover it was the cable on the TB! All ended well so no problems
Gents, what's the best way to remove the lower starter bolt without removing the alternator?
I'm fairly comfortable with the R&R procedure but when we did this on the weekend we had the alternator removed which provided clear access to the lower starter bolt. I'm not too keen on removing the alternator if I don't have to.
What ways have people gotten to the second bolt?
Use a socket with straight extension the length of the starter, THEN a swivel and long extension to angle up over the top of the alternator to your ratchet, works as well as anything.
Also found this image which ill try if I cant get it from above, means ill have to take off one of the pulleys and drive belt. Assuming they use two extensions? One to the starter, a U joint and then one the rest of the way? Would be good to get a torque wrench straight onto that extension.
Anyone know the torque for the pulley that runs off the alternator securing bolt? Might look it up now.
Since you already ordered the new starter, this may not matter. That whine following a cold start is pretty common as the miles add up. Burner's Garage has a good video tutorial for disassembling this starter (same as on a Boxster) and fixing that whine. Might be worth attempting when you get the old starter out to give yourself a good spare.
How to Repair a Noisy Bosch Starter Motor
