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YOUR RESEARCHReplaced tuning fork control arms: WOW!
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Replace 4
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced with Meyle parts ordered from the UK, since the Porsche parts are ungodly expensive, and I had a hard time finding other OE-spec parts in the US from a reputable brand.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I don't like the idea of the "upgraded" parts from some vendors that replace the ball joint with an elastomer bushing, which effectively adds spring rate to the car, and transfers more/different loads to the chassis, which isn't necessarily a better thing.
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Suggestion
You might want to still want to test the shocks, my indy just did the bounce test.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I don't like the idea of the "upgraded" parts from some vendors that replace the ball joint with an elastomer bushing, which effectively adds spring rate to the car, and transfers more/different loads to the chassis, which isn't necessarily a better thing.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced with Meyle parts ordered from the UK, since the Porsche parts are ungodly expensive, and I had a hard time finding other OE-spec parts in the US from a reputable brand.
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I've had some moderate harshness/clunkiness over bumps for some time. Especially noticeable on rough pavement at low speeds, and it would get worse the longer I drove the car (hotter it got). After doing research here and on other forums all signs pointed to the tuning fork arms.
I replaced all 4. 3 of them had pretty bad knocking when put in a vise and pulled/pushed axially; the 4th has barely any play. This play is not noticeable on the car because it's very hard to get any motion in that direction by tugging on wheels or suspension components. Even in the vise the motion is barely visible, but you can definitely feel it.
Drives like a new car now. Not only is it quieter over bumps, but it feels like it has new shocks, and even shifts seems crisper and smoother. Amazing difference from such a simple component.
By the way some of the other posts make it sound like the rears are a horrible bear to replace, but I beg to differ. The trick is to have a short, thin 20mm wrench to be able to grab the nut on top of the front bolt attaching the arm to the subframe. I removed the rear wheel arch trim, and lowered the rear corners of the belly pan in that area, but did not remove the entire pan.
Also took the opportunity to install some 997 Turbo rear brake scoops (P/N 99733148702KT, very cheap). Minor trimming is required to clear the calipers and hoses, but otherwise an easy fit.
I just had the shocks, sway bar links, and shock mounts replaced. It drives much better, but there is still one rattle and it still feels a bit rough. I think these control arms might be next.
You might want to still want to test the shocks, my indy just did the bounce test. When he took it off, I could compress the shocks with very little pressure.
My car has relatively new shocks and mounts so I'm sure those are fine.
I f you think about how these get loaded, it makes sense that they rattle over bumps, especially at low speeds. Every time you hit a bump/dip in the road, it wants to pull the wheel rearward on the car, which stresses this part axially. Also as the suspension travels vertically, this part gets pushed/pulled axially. If there's any play in that ball joint where it attaches to the car, you're going to get knocking. At high speed the car kind of floats over the bumps and there is more background noise so it's not as audible, but at low speed it's really noticeable.
I replaced with Meyle parts ordered from the UK, since the Porsche parts are ungodly expensive, and I had a hard time finding other OE-spec parts in the US from a reputable brand. I don't like the idea of the "upgraded" parts from some vendors that replace the ball joint with an elastomer bushing, which effectively adds spring rate to the car, and transfers more/different loads to the chassis, which isn't necessarily a better thing. Will report back later on how these parts hold up.
All the suspension bushings on these cars need to be updated after 15 years! So many people don't realize that "cheap" high mileage 996 probably needs a minimum of $5,000 in suspension work (parts and labor) to actually perform properly. Springs, shocks, sway bars, control arms, drop links, etc., alignment. It makes a huge difference in the driving characteristics.
ejd - I just bought that exact car! '01 996 Cab with 75k miles. Got it for around $13k, but it needs $5k worth of suspension work for sure! Know any good shops (south of Philly)...?
I like to use this indy in New Jersey (not too far) when I can. Very fair prices on labor, bring your own parts if you want. He's not easy to get a hold of but he only works on Porsche, nothing else.
Yurii Matsuk
cell:[phone removed]
www.polarporsche.com
www.euromotivecars.com
Polar Automotive
2 Keystone Ave
Cherry Hill, NJ 08003
O: [phone removed]
C: [phone removed]
Thank you SO MUCH for posting this! I bought my '01 C2 a few months ago (with about 75k. miles), and immediately noticed my front-end clunkiness. After reading your post, I was convinced that the symptoms I was noticing were the same as you detailed in your original posting. I'm not a major wrench-turner, but I liked the idea of starting with the easiest/cheapest/simplest parts to fix the problem first, so I gave it a shot. Got my hands on a pair of EPS control arms (Amazon), and my rattles and clunks (especially at low speeds) are history! Thanks again...
Nice! Glad to help. It is amazing how much more pleasant it is to drive the car after tightening up those clunks, eh? Worth every penny for the new parts.
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