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YOUR RESEARCHReplacing clutch master cylinder
Leading reported evidence
Check receipt
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Actually for the slave it was $750, I just checked the receipt
Leading evidence: 'Check receipt' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check receipt' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace $800 including parts and they quoted me $800 more
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I recently had the slave replaced for $800 including parts and they quoted me $800 more to do the master.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
First symptom was a very small squeak underneath (assist spring had been replaced < 6 months ago) when pressing in the clutch.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Went back, they replaced the slave cylinder - fixed!
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Suggestion · Original poster
I crawled into the foot well and looked up and couldn't even feel the fill hose let alone try and get to the blue retaining clip.
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Hey all,
About to embark on a clutch master cylinder replacement journey!
I recently had the slave replaced for $800 including parts and they quoted me $800 more to do the master. So naturally not wanting to spend on something I could at least attempt, i'm giving this a go.
Just wanted to confirm the steps and if anyone has any advice for a particular stage of this replacement. I will try and document it with images as I go.
So far i've got:
- Motive power bleeder European model 0109
- New FTE master cylinder (with Porsche part logo but the part number removed??) - 996 421 171 06 - FTE: KG190062.0.20
- Large syringe for fluid removal
- 2 x 500ml bottles of Mobil 1 brake fluid (same as what is currently there)
Assumed procedure:
1. Remove strainer from brake reservoir and remove fluid down past the clutch feed line (ensuring to remove the fluid from the clutch chamber of the reservoir) but not to empty as to not require a brake bleed.
2. Remove clip + bolt from clutch pedal to master cylinder
3. Remove two bolts holding master cylinder in place
4. Remove clip holding feed line onto top of the master cylinder + remove feed line (catch fluid with a rag)
5. Remove front compartment linings and then remove clip from line that feeds the slave cylinder (catch fluid as it comes out)
6. Pull out master cylinder with lines disconnected
7. Install new master cylinder (although it looks to be compressed?) - attached lines, do up bolts (7.5ft-lbs). Insert clips to both lines.
8. Refill reservoir with new fluid
9. Fill motive bleeder with fluid and connect - pressurise line to 1.3bar
10. Slowly pull up clutch pedal to fill the new master with fluid??
11. Push down pedal slowly and hold
12. Open bleed valve on slave cylinder - bleed for min 90 seconds
13. Pump pedal 10-15 times
Instructions for the clutch were here:
https://www.renntech.org/forums/tuto...-instructions/
Any advice on any of those steps would be appreciated
If I can't bleed the system ill get it flat bedded to the dealership.
Thanks!
Are you sure you need to change the master cylinder, the clutch slave cylinder can be really hard to bleed, just wondered what's made the decision for you?
This has been a bit of a saga for me actually.
First symptom was a very small squeak underneath (assist spring had been replaced < 6 months ago) when pressing in the clutch. Then the clutch pedal started only returning to 3/4 of the way back up.
Took it to the dealership they couldn't find anything specific so they removed the pedal assembly and lubricated it - fixed! Then on the way home, same issue. Went back, they replaced the slave cylinder - fixed! A few days later same issue! Now it still won't return all the way and I have to pop the clutch pedal out with my foot from behind it.
Oh and this:
$800 to replace the clutch slave cylinder, seriously???. For my 2000 C4 Cab the slave cylinder lists for $144 US, maybe it is more in Australia. In my driveway with jack stands I can swap it out in less than an hour, actually way less than an hour. With my power bleeder it takes maybe 10 minutes to bleed the system, hell in an hour I can flush out the entire hydraulic system with new fluid, brakes and clutch. I have replaced the slave cylinder once and flushed the system several times (every two or three years) so I know it can be done.
Sorry but you got raped!
Yep its not cheap to own these down here! An independent quoted me $950 for the master replacement, I paid $160 for the Motive bleeder (postage included) as well, retails for like $50 in the US...
Also you can't get anywhere near a 996 for sub 20k like you can in the US, they start at 50k for a '98 and go up...
Actually for the slave it was $750, I just checked the receipt
Wasn't really interested in tackling the master cylinder myself happy to pay it for the slave but not for the master.
The part itself was $300... They took the pedal assembly cost off the price so I paid $450 in labour including the pedal lubrication.
Paid $600 (part + labour) for the starter cable as well, in hindsight I could have done that myself too.
Oh well, live and learn!
Hey all,
Another question, i've removed the plastic caps on the new master cylinder and there seems to be some sort of clear paste or lubricant inside the ends. Does this need to be cleaned out before the installation?
Hey all, unfortunately i've let down the Rennlist D.I.Y. community... I crawled into the foot well and looked up and couldn't even feel the fill hose let alone try and get to the blue retaining clip.
Thew in the towel and sent it to the dealership
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