Rebuilding valve Lifters? Can it be done well?

Hello, I was wondering what you guys thought about rebuilding valve lifters. I have a bunch and have seen how simple in design they are and believe they could be rebuilt and cleaned out. There are videos of people dismantling them and letting them soak in carb cleaner over night then rebuilding them. What do you guys think? Good way to save $500 or I should�nt consider it?

I'm pretty sure that for $500, I would replace them.

The though had crossed my mind when I was doing my engine refresh, but after thinking about the time and effort vested in doing the deed in comparison to the price of new ones, I just opted to purchase new ones and roll with it. Also presuming the new ones would be good meaning no issues as far as reassembly and internal parts wear, I opted to just buy new ones. Also the fact that I bought INA brand lifters that were identical in every shape and form to ones installed in the motor for around $320. I chose to go with new lifters regardless.

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They really are not "rebuildable". At least the Porsche ones I have seen and I have two intake lifters, one sans the low/high lift feature and one with the low/hgh lift feature. There are a number of areas that could need to be addressed. The face upon which the cam lobe presses. This has to have a topology and surface finish that can tolerate the pressure of the lobe swiping across it time after time for well, in some cases hundreds of thousands of miles of usage and uncoutable engine revolutions. The zero lash feature works by relying up a very tight sliding fit that in my experience "works" even with no oil. The two cylinders each have special metalurgy/heat treatment to withstand the rigors of one end having to take the force of the lifter face being pushed down by the cam lobe and the other end having to push down on the valve stem end. These ends have to not fracture, break, or mushroom when the engine is started and zero lash feature has bled down and the zero lash feature is not working to take up the valve lash/clearance and to withstand this until oil flow and pressure replenishes the oil in any of the zero lash adjusters. While this happens pretty quickly consider this happening over and over again for again hundreds of thousands of miles. There is the zero lash check ball and its spring. This is not a field serviceable item. Likewise the hardware that makes up the low to high lift feature is not field serviceable. About the only thing one could possibly do if the lifter was just contaminated with "dirt" and was otherwise in good working order would be to thoroughly clean it out, flush out the lifter body to remove any dirt or debris it had possibly accumulated then recharge it with oil and install it back in the engine. Really though given how much labor is involved to get at the lifters one is better off just replacing them with new if it is believed the existing lifters are no longer working properly.

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Where can I get lifters for cheap!

Warehouse 33 with the discount code RENNLIST is about as good a price as you can get for 996 lifters

General consensus is usually that a lifter is mated to a lobe for life. Kind of like a piston/ring is mated to a cylinder for life(of the engine). I'm guessing a lifter that hasn't been in service very long could be cleaned, and reused but the ultimate life of the lifter(and maybe the lobe) would be significantly less than original. Polishing the lifter face and checking for parallelism with a collimated light and optical glass flat might benefit, but at additional cost. Kind of like grinding/polilshing one's own telescope lenses, except super flat. lolz...

The lifters were upgraded.The tappets jam in the bucket. Easy for them to plug with tiny debris. Not repairable and even if they were you need the upgrade from INA. The lifters used to be expensive.Long ago I tracked down a substitute using INA references and got a complete set of 24 intended for a BMW.I imported them for a fraction ot the USA cost from England. I believe these are what are sold now by the various parts sources as INA/Shaeffler. They may not be branded Porsche but the INA part number should be the same. But do your own research and use a very,very good oil filter and keep the oil changed regularly/frequently. Dirt is the enemy of the little tappets..

This is a write-up I did back in 2010 on the lifters for a VarioCam engine. I am not going to re-write it but there is info you might find helpful. I have not looked at current pricing. Found out some interesting things on the cam lifters that you might also benefit from. First, I tried your technique of compressing the lifters. A few of mine had some movement even before I tried this. Some others seemed to free up some with being compressed, but a few just don't seem to move at all. Based on this I was going to send them off to Flat 6 (for $400 with cores, they say the "normal price" is $500 but they had offered me $400 and would honor this price. Once I thought Jake told me "About $200", but it was off the cuff on the phone one night.), but I thought I would do a little research on the net first. The original part number for the lifters was 996.105.041.50, but it has been superseded with 996.105.041.72. (on 3.6 engines the .72 is the exhaust lifter and there is a different lifter for the intake that lists for about $237. On 3.4's all the lifters, both intake and exhaust are the same). Rennlist shows a price of $17.51 for the old part, and $43.97 for the new number. I started googling the part numbers and found prices from about $34 to over $75. But I also started seeing cross-references to BMW lifters. I found a place called Auto Atlanta that had listings for the part number with 3 different prices from $21 to $44. I called them and talked to someone who said let me check it out and see what is available. In a minute or so he came back with the Febi Bilstein lifters with a price of only $21.90@, so $525.60 for a set of 24. I thought I would check with Febi so I found their website and started cross referencing. They show a lifter for the 3.4 996 with a cross reference of 996.105.041.72, Febi #23201. But then I looked up there cross reference for a BMW, 2000, X5, and low and behold they have reference numbers for this lifter for BMW (11 32 1 748 884) and Porsche (996.105.041.50, the old Porsche number). Both show as 24mm tall and 33 mm outside diameter. So I start doing search on the BMW part number and start finding the lifter for $16.68, then $15.51, and now a parts house in Michigan that has them for only $12.02@, WOW!! Now I have not talked to them as it was too late today, but they show a Manufacturer of INA and then another name. Maybe aftermarket. But at #12.02 a set of 24 is only $288.48. I am going to call them tomorrow and see who the manufacturer is for these lifters before I order anything. In any case, the internet can be pretty amazing, a wealth of information if you are persistent. I know that Flat 6 says the "rebuild" them including re-valving that increase the capacity(?) by 5%. But I am thinking that I may just go with new ones. I will let you know what the place in Michigan says (of course you are welcome to all the names, etc.) but if they are good you might want to think about just replacing yours. The packages of new lifters came this morning, 3 packages of 8 each, brand new from INA with the BMW part number on the package. Two comments: 1. The old lifters, which were part number 996.105.041.50 were marked on the bottom "INA 577 16." The new lifters have the exact same marking on them, so they are definitely the same lifters. Now there may be an argument that when Porsche went to the 3.6 engine the lifters were upgraded, thus the new part number 996.105.041.72, and the intake lifters were changed entirely (VarioCam Plus). But I figure that if the old style was good enough for all that time, the whole 3.4 production run, then they should be good enough for now. 2. I checked the new lifters, and THERE IS NO MOVEMENT IN ANY OF THEM!! I am thinking that since they arrived bathed in oil from the factory, they have never really been pressurized, and it is the oil pressure that fills them up and expands the little piston/chamber. But I have to admit that I was surprised. The place I got the lifters last November was All European (alleuro.com). But when I bought them last year they were $12.02 each and now they are listed for $19.88 each. Not sure why the change, you could call them. You have to find them under the BMW part number 11 32 1 748 884. Here is the link to the FEBI Bilstein site where it shows the part as being the same as the old Porsche lifter http://www.febi.com/en/service/suche...nummer_submit= However at the higher price you might want to go with the newer lifters if you are going to replace them (I know you might not want to do this at the higher price). Here is a trick for that. Autoatlanta.com has them. However if you search under the 996.105.041.72 number for the new lifter you get prices from about $40-$55. If you search under the old part number 996.105.041.50 you will get a listing for the Boxster showing the SS996.105.041.72 for less than $23. Don't ask me why!

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Wow amazing! Thanks! Found all 24 for $164 with the BMW part number.

So you bought BMW # "11 32 1 748 884" ? and you got 24 lifters for $164 - fantastic because they were around $450 at the reduced price ! And you confirmed that # matches 996. 105.041.72 in the INA Interchange list ? http://www.new-part.com/product/bmw-...FQ5rfgodXScIog

MoeMoney, what Dahrn55 said is essentially what I did. I read his original post from years past and I also went with the BMW part number (11321748884) even used a micrometer to confirm size and long behold it is the same, the lifters I bought are even made by INA like the originals and parts are stamped with numbers just like the originals installed in the motor. A few miles later now and I continue to fire off all 6 cylinders nice and quietly since the refresh and also cut the cost of replacing the lifters. So thank you, Dharn55 for that great contribution and alternative to having to pay that "Porsche" tax. Congrats MoeMoney on scoring one heck of a deal, it seems to be better than the one I got.

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Please post source for such a great deal...you never know when one of us poor Porsche taxpayers might need a little help

http://alleuro.com/ 11 32 1 748 884 in search box. $15.03/ea

When I was repairing my engine the first time, I had a set of old lifters from a '99 Jetta TDI and they slid perfectly into the lifter bores of the '99 996 head. I didn't investigate any further but might be worth to look up the specs as they sure looked the same to me.

Very well could be the same, I've run SBC chevy lifters in many Harley twin cam engine with great results, I have found in few times where the **** has said they upgraded the lifters but really just found a cheaper version echo en Mexico and not last at all, could be the same for M96 where the original's may be the one's you want.

A sticky would be nice with all these cross referenced parts that cut the P tax.

Try Importec: https://importecautoparts.com/parts/...%20748%20884/3 OEM - INA brand lifters (11321748884) $13.28 Each

New lifter INA (left) vs Old original engine lifter INA (right).

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Is that a Photoshop?

The devil is in the details. The new/old lifter upgrade is indistinguishable by physical measurement. IIRC there are 2 issues in the upgrade - a change to the tappet design and a change to the chamfer on the edge of the bucket. This is why I only used the later part number+ an Interchange reference. Otherwise you may get a physically similar item that fits and works but not for long.

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This is interesting. The thing is that the part says it works for the boxster and as far as I know the 986 boxster uses the same lifters as the 996. I found them on eBay from a seller in europe.

You are golden IF INA says it is interchangeable .An M96 is an M96 from the lifter perspective.Boxster/996 - the same.If you check the Interchange manuals, the same lifter is used in many engines including ones as mundane as the Kia Amanti -but of course w/o the P-Car tax, But beware of lifters that have the same physical size but are not equivalent in the INA interchange list.They may work but .....there is a reason INA do not list them as interchangeable.Upgrades/improved designs O.K.

Well I am glad that I was able to offer some help and savings to some of you guys. I can tell you that I have had the "BMW" lifters in my engine for abut 8 years and 50,000 miles with no problem. But now I am feeling bad as I paid more than $164

Well, Even better news guys. I found compatible lifters made by Ajusa for $88 THATS RIGHT $88 FOR ALL 24. Apparently many cars use these lifters and different brands have different designs but they also work. I cross Referenced the part numbers. Check this out. Just click the "Alternate brands" option. https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/299...r-11321440256/ and here they are for $88 for all 24. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151046084371 And if you still are in doubt here is a great site with a list of different suppliers for the same BMW part number. http://www.niparts.com/index.aspx?ac...num1=E23BCBF6#

Imagine how much money Porsche made while the "party " lasted !

I also bought "bmw" ina lifters from ebay 156$... boxter and 996 is same lifters

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What manufacturer is "Eristic?" Or presumably that's just the reseller, but are these reputable? Looks like no manufacturer stamps or anything on the close-up photos from that ebay link. Or is that anything to be concerned about? I know lifters are simple enough but they're still pretty darned important!

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Actually they are not simple but very complex. The metal used, the heat treatment, surface finish, and the fits and so on is very important. The lifter has to withstand the pressure of the cam lobe on its face over and over again. The valve spring is a light spring as valve springs go but still given the very small contact surface area the lobe has with the lifter bucket face the pressure is in the thousands of pounds -- over 100,000 if I remember the calculation -- per square inch. And this interface is splash lubed. Also the condition of the cam lobes is important. If there is any degradation at the lobe the cam must be replaced. Even the best lifters in the world won't last long if the cam lobe is bad.

The principal of a valve lifter is very simple. I didn't say the engineering behind making them well isn't complex. Like a ball bearing, they are a very simple basic machine but they are incredibly precise. The engineering and quality is what's giving me pause with the $100 for 2 dozen of them.

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They are good lifters and are OEM quality. Manufacturer makes them for several cars.

Till the cheap lifter has an incorrect rockwell hardness, and takes out one of more cam lobes. You will get exactly what you pay for when it comes to lifters. When you've seen a new engine die from a lifter that shed material all through the engine, you take notice. When you've seen one builder have 100% of the engines he's built with them fail the same way, you sit back and watch.

Thanks for keeping us educated Jake. I am sure glad you don't just sit back and watch some of us make crucial mistakes without warning!

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At times I have to. No one will listen unless they watch their buddy crash, and burn. People don't listen to the guy that has spent more than 1/4 of his life working with this one particular engine.

but many of us do listen - so thank you Jake ! see post 10 https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...lfunction.html

I can't afford to not listen...

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I called the place that sells them and they say they are made by INA. I assume those are the standard good lifters? I should be receiving them on Wednesday so I'll post pictures.

Please do. If they are made by Schaeffler (Ina) that would be interesting.

They probably don't even know... Too many resellers of resold stuff that don't even know what they are selling these days... Because they don't use the stuff that they sell.

Well I received the lifters. From what I see the parts look good. They are identical to the INA lifters and come from a place called CNS Auto Parts based out of SoCal that imports parts from Ajusa, Bosch and others and offer a guarantee. According to CNS auto parts http://www.cnsautoparts.com they only sell OEM quality parts. I received 32 lifters for about 120 dollars. The lifters look well made and I believe they are made by AJUSA which is an OEM supplier to Mercedes and VW. They are loaded with oil. Here are the pictures.

I see no INA or Schaeffler markings An AJUSA lifter is about 1/2 the price of INA.Who knows why ? https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/165...-Lifter-08365/

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I think pricing depends more on where you buy them from. Some sites have AJUSA parts priced higher than INA parts etc...

The finish of the top of the lifter isn't "factory" and the back side is missing the "Germany VW INA 577.9". See attached pics of a genuine lifter.

Macster and others are better metalurgists than me but the dull ,dark coloration of the INA lifter is a result of heat treatment(good). Bright and shiny is not .The rebuttal is - they are running in aluminum alloy so they don't need to be harder than mild steel. The oil film separates the lifter from the lifter carrier anyway. I am not qualified to judge either way. That is why I bought 24 x INA lifters even though I found generic Interchange parts at a fraction of the cost.But I plan to keep my M96 a very long time.YEMV

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It is more than the metal and heat treatment it is the very special surface finish that has very slight depressions which help to lube the cam lobe as it wipes over the lifter face and pushes the lifter down. While the valve spring is pretty light -- IIRC around 70psi with the valve on the seat -- when the lobe has fully depressed the lifter the spring pressure is I believe nearly double that, call it 150lbs. Given the narrow cam lobe and the very very thin line of contact (I estimate only 0.002" wide and this may be generous) and an approx. 1/2" wide cam lobe the surface area of the contact of the lobe against the lifter bucket face is just 0.001" and with an estimated 150lbs valve spring pressure with the valve fully open this works out to 150,000psi. The cam lobe/lifter interface is not even pressure lubed but relies upon "splash" lube the lube that gets squeezed out from around the lifter bucket and runs down over the face of the lifter bucket. At higher RPMs they are lubed more by a heavy oil mist rather than by liquid oil. These lifters look pretty simple/basic but they have a heck of a job to do and they do this under pretty harsh conditions. This is not the place to skimp on hardware for the sake of a few bucks.

The original INA lifters out of my car were bright and shiny and the replacement INA lifters I put in 8 yeras ago were also bright and shiny. Not sure what is up with that dark, dull finish but I don't think it has anything to do with heat treating. IMHO!

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After looking at the INA lifters that they have at the shop. They are shiny also. The markings are also different than the INA lifter picture uploaded. Im not an expert on car parts but the quality of the lifters I received seams to be identical to the INA lifters. I think it would be best to do a side to side comparison of a good lifter and a bad lifter. There is also a different vendor on eBay selling INA brand lifters for $164 dollars for 24 but shipping takes much longer. I think price depends on where you buy them from.

We spend a lot of time discussing lifters.But we seldom discuss the issue of wear in the bores of the Lifter Carrier .Since that wear (oval +/- taper) is related to Ticking(& worse!), it seems important. The Lifter Carrier is aluminum, the lifter is steel. The two metals are separated by an oil film & good oil pressure. So if there is any problem with oil supply to the cams...... I wonder how many ticking M96 engines have Lifter Carrier bores that are hour-glass shaped & a few collapsed Lifters? Has anyone got any specs or measurements for bore wear and measurement techniques? I found this. Guess the author before you click the link below? "It is imperative when changing lifters to have the lifter carrier measured for taper and excess wear at the 6-12 O clock positions. Not doing this spells certain death to lifters at around 8K miles at the wear eff3etcs the lifter rotation during operation and increases wear dramatically. We've learned this the hard way during test work and even in one of our updated engines." https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-noise-2.html Here is a different author example: "Quick summary; Engine failed at 136,000 miles due to a single lifter failure. Full professional rebuild of engine including replacement of all 24 lifters with brand new lifters (and replaced all of the collateral damage). Engine failed again within 500 miles of highway driving due to ... wait for it.... lifter failure. Why? Lifter carrier was worn and excess tolerance was allowing the lifter to wobble ever so slightly. Slight wobble resulted in uneven stress causing failure. Another full professional rebuild along with more collateral damaged parts replaced including another set of 24 brand new lifters but this time included two new lifter carriers. Second time is the charm if you don't find the root cause of the failure on the first go around. Lesson learned. " See Post #23 here" http://986forum.com/forums/performan...-valves-2.html ________

This is why we have to bush lifter carriers in some cases to restore the proper running clearance. Each lifter bore must be measured for the correct ID, and for both ovality, and taper. If you buy a 5-10K engine, you can guaranteed that no micrometers were used in its assembly!

Bushing a Lifter Carrier .... sounds expensive but it would be much better than an OEM new Lifter carrier. In this regard the M96 is vaguely similar to the Jag/Ford Duratec engines.We had used something like this: http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_conte...leeves/lbs.php

I could find no authoritative info on how to evaluate used Lifters. Many of online sources are contradictory . Just watch a few You Tube, BMW S54 Lifter vids for examples.Same/similar part to ours. There is confusion about basic issues - for example: 1. should the tappet/piston(the part in the center of a Lifter) be hard or soft in a serviceable, used Lifter ? 2. if it is soft , how soft is too soft? Is the softness caused by air in the reservoir or just the spring bouncing in an almost oil-depleted Lifter? 3. if it is solid/hard - is it jammed(bad) or is it just completely full of un-compressible oil (good)? 4. should you prefill/load the lifters with oil and why ? I got new Lifters from INA and measured the height of the dome of the tappet.There was significant variation. All were rock solid. I measured the old lifters .Both the soft and hard ones had similar dimensional variation. So which are worn out and which are not & how do you know? The more I study the Lifter subject ,the more I realize I do not understand.But there is lots of confidently presented nonsense on the subject - some of it mine ! The only wisdom I have is to replace all the Lifters and their worn Carriers .Also ensure you have excellent oil pressure and no wear that will compromise the function of the Lifter -like worn camshaft bearings for example. There is so much time involved in replacing M96 Lifters with the engine in the car, that to do otherwise may be fooli$h Here is a related useful link: " So, if they are solid - they need to be replaced IMHO ." *I now believe this may be partially wrong based on dismantling many old M96 lifters. Sometimes the tappet assembly is solid in the bucket because the tappet and the bucket is full of oil. Proof = Dismantle all the Lifter parts,and carefully reassemble with no oil - the two halves of the tappet move freely. Install the tappet in the bucket WITHOUT the retaining ring - everything still moves freely. Install the retaining ring - ditto. Fill the tappet and the bucket with oil and reassemble completely - Rock Solid to finger pressure. But remember ,the lifter will only stay "rock solid"to any degree if the engine oil pressure is sufficient.If the Lifter carrier bores or cam bearings are worn -not so much ? * From here: http://986forum.com/forums/performan...followers.html And note that the new INA lifters you buy from SSF (for example ) are also labled for use on KIA & Porsche ! INA part # 420 0104 10 = 99610504172 Included in the INA box are the most convoluted pictorial Instructions for pumping up the Lifters AFTER you install them. Since you will have spent many hours reassembling everything - you better pray it works ! No 'cooking' nor soaking required.Indeed some of the You Tube sources strongly advize against that. I am not saying it is wrong - just that among amateurs it is controversial. See Post 68 here for more: http://986forum.com/forums/performan...followers.html

....... and you may still have a problem with the new INA units. We have been plagued with bad lifters in 2017. If the engine cold starts with a misfire, you get to do the job all over again. I am am currently no longer trusting INA lifters, and have to take the time to build a test jig for every single one.

I've never rebuilt a Porsche engine, but in every rebuild I've ever done lifters were one of the lowest cost components. Since they wear to a specific bore and cam love, you have to keep precise track of them. If changing cams or other valvetrain parts, this isn't a place to save money IMO. I've always been a new lifter guy and getting them from the OEM. IMO most aftermarket clutch bearings are complete poop too. I happily pay more for OEMs best here.

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Genuine Porsche lifters are INA as well. In an effort to curb the problems we'd been having we started buying Genuine... Didn't work... Same problems. When you get bad ones, you get several bad ones out of the same set. They come packaged in multi- packs, and it seems that a whole pack, or most of that pack will be bad.... Then sometimes you get a flawless set. None of these have failed once an engine was delivered, I catch them all here during my several days worth of evaluation, then we get to do the job all over again.... And then sometimes we get a second set of bad ones. Wear is NOT the issue...(at least not THIS issue) Its the operation of the internal portion of the lifter. This leads to misfires when the engine is cold, and at fast idle in most instances. INA will listen to nothing... So, we are back to doing our own reconditioning of OE lifters until they get this figured out. This hit about 3 months ago and has been a huge pain in the *** for many of us in the industry. Some shops can;t even figure out what the issue is, and they waste days chasing gremlin issues with symptoms of injectors and ignition components. I know exactly how a bad lifter acts.

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On a Porsche? Not only haven't you rebuilt an M96 but you obviously haven't had the sticker shock of pricing a Genuine Porsche branded Lifter.Until we identified generics that MIGHT work - the retail price was about $80 each.They have come down recently - to $66. Each ! https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/99610504172/ Now you may understand the significance of identifying and sharing here the info on an identical $10(in U.K.) lifter from the same OEM supplier to Porsche. http://986forum.com/forums/performan...followers.html And as the links also identify there is way more to this issue than just installing new lifters(regardless of price) - unfortunately. Heck -on this Forum we don't even have a method of identifying a good/bad lifter before you install them !And the manufacturer is not helping any of us - not even one of their best customers.Shame on INA !! Forget the price of the Lifters. I am doing this for the second time - both Banks -on a Boxster with the engine in place - it is a tedious and time consuming task - twice.New INA lifters both times and I have no idea which new INA lifters are good and which are junk. "I got new Lifters from INA and measured the height of the dome of the tappet.There was significant variation."

I understand the points being made but just because two parts share dimensions and appearances, it doesn't make them like parts that are interchangeable. And seeing as a few automotive parts I've designed are in roads today, I might know a teeny tiny bit about the subject. I've sent parts off to be bid to get back same sized identical looking pieces of rubbish made of much weaker cheaper material. Say your lifter is exactly the same save for internals. Well those internals control the amount of pressure that lifter can generate to open your valve spring. Doesn't make me eager to swap pieces just because they measure similarly and look the same. now with proper research one might find out which factory they are manufactured in and prove they are the same. Until then it's speculation. This is the very reason manufacturer markings and chains of custody are important.

You haven't read the Threads. This has been beaten to death.The part number from INA is the same.INA supplies Porsche.It is all in the linked Threads Just read the contribution from Smallblock aka Marcus, Gelbster and Schnell Gelb and Harn.

I read this thread. I didn't see any convincing evidence that the cheap generic is the same as the oem lifter. After saying the same thing in posts 4x and 44 yourself, I'm now somehow incorrect..... crazy. And just because two lifters are stamped INI and measure and look the same, doesn't mean jack squat. I've sent parts to china to be built as samples and they comeback with incorrect copied manufacturer markings routinely! The Chinese will use crap machines, crap metallurgy, stick someone's else's part numbers and mfg markings on it and then sell it! I've seen it in person. Thats also one of the many reasons I no longer work for a fortune 100 auto maker.

It is INA ,not INI. INA is the OEM Lifter supplier to Porsche. I buy mine from SSF. This source is INA's Tier 1 distributor in the USA. The same faults are occurring in "Genuine Porsche" branded lifters as described in Posts above. If you read the links (you obviously did not) I pointed out several times the potential flaws in my own initial analysis from years ago. But I am sure your scatological comments are correct.But this is not the China Bashing Thread. Now share your knowledge with us - how to evaluate INA Lifters ?.And specifically the tappets.

To evaluate the these lifters I am experimenting with simple rig that others may find helpful. Use a 12 pt., 1/4 drive 9mm(11/32") socket.Plus a 1/4" drive x hex extension. Fit in a drill press.Use a weight on the Press arm to apply a specific amount of pressure on a "solid"(but not jammed) Tappet in a Lifter for several minutes.Measure the Tappet height before/after. First dismantle the lifter and clean(if necessary) leave the Retaining Ring off the tappet for the test just to make it easier to remove after the test is complete. Any tappet that compresses more/much more quickly than the best of your sample is suspect. Yes it is a crude ,comparative test but it is easy to replicate on many lifters if you are methodical. To test the rig, select a 'soft ' Tappet.Dismantle, clean, refill both the tappet and bucket with oil.Reassemble. Omit the little spring wire Retaining Ring. It will probably be a leaker and compress too much ,too quickly. Measure the Tappet height before/after to confirm.The amount of oil dribbling out of the fill/weep hole is unimportant.The bucket is just that - a reservoir. This is like measuring bores for ovality an taper. Lots of notes and markings and replications. I hope this helps others propose a better test rig to evaluate suspect Lifters at the DIY level.

Harley's have a huge problems with lifters, fits and valving, I take a lifter and take it apart and clean it out completely, then use ATF or calibration oil (No motor oil) and stick it in a container filled with oil and run a vacuum to eliminate all the air from the lifter, then I have a tool that is fabricated to support the lifter in the drill press at the same tolerance as the lifter block on the motor, cut a push rod and install on drill press, also set a dial indicator on the set up to measure travel, now the important part is to measure the travel of the lifter for a given time, most important is setting a weight on the arm of the drill press so the lifter see the same amount of pressure all the time, most chinese junk lifters don't make it, I am looking for less than .050 travel in 1 minute and 5lbs of weight on my drill press. Note: on a buddy set up we took the lifter holder and plumbed a Sure Shot can to it and pressurized the lifter with 30 psi of pressure during the testing, don't think we gained anything other than different timing for the same travel. the same could be done for the M96 lifter. research would have to be done to get a time and travel with a good and bad lifter, also enough can not be said about the cleanliness of the lifter insides , have come up with left over machining many of times on new lifters.

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John- Brilliant Post. You are using a more elegant version of my test system. So either we are both fools or maybe we have actually found a reasonable method to roughly evaluate lifters. Do you know of any link, description or video of your method of measuring suspect Lifters? I did not find any before coming up with my test system.That is why my suggestion was rather hesitant - I had no clue it had already been done by this "!John" guy ! Thank you for sharing.