9 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCold starting issues!!
Reported or suspected cause
secondary air injection system
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause
This info then suggests the problem is with the secondary air injection system.
Leading evidence: 'secondary air injection system' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'secondary air injection system' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check can't' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I cleaned the throttle body and it appeared to correct the problem.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have cleaned the throttle body once again and changed the plugs with no real change.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I inspected the coil packs and they appeared fine with no cracking.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have cleaned the throttle body once again and changed the plugs with no real change.
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Recently I had issues with starting when dead cold. It would start, but not go to the 1100-1200 rpm range which was normal. It would act as though it was "loaded up". If you feathered the throttle and got it to clear then all was fine.
I cleaned the throttle body and it appeared to correct the problem. Now after several months it is doing the same thing all over again. I have cleaned the throttle body once again and changed the plugs with no real change. I inspected the coil packs and they appeared fine with no cracking. I have never had a CEL so I'm lost on this one.
It is a '02 C2 Cab. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tony
Based on the symptoms and without knowing the general health of the car but making the assumption it was in good health before this behavior appeared I suspect a coolant temperature or air temperature (intake air temperature) sensor supplying the wrong value, at least at engine start and shortly thereafter.
If the sensor reads colder than actual the engine gets too much gas and opening throttle supplies a bit extra air and all is well, or at least better.
You will need an OBDII scan tool/code reader/data viewer to view the intake and coolant temperature sensors in "real time" and compare the readings to each other and to what you know the ambient temperature is.
There will be no error cause the engine controller is not yet running closed loop and does not bother to check, can't check some things. By the time the engine controller is able to switch to closed loop mode the sensor readings are better or the engine controller has not yet had to go too far one direction or the other to adapt and thus no error code set.
Once the controller goes closed loop mode the long term fuel trims might also provide a clue or a hint of what's going on, if one or both are much over or under 0%.
Oh, wait... Cleaned the throttle body? Was it dirty? Oily? If so this could be an early warning sign of AOS trouble. How many miles on the car? Generally AOSs fail or start to fail after tens of thousands of miles (my experience now with two of them is 78K and nearly 100K miles) but for those older cars that have not been driven much after a while time and age can start to have an affect and an AOS might go bad at relatively low miles.
Sincerely,
Macster.
The throttle body did not apeear to be oily or dirty. The car has 45,ooo miles and is in good health. Once it passes the 1000 rpm mark after startup, then it runs as normal. Sometimes you can shut it off then immediately re-start the engine and all is good.
Tony
When you pulled the filter casing off and sprayed cleaner you might of also cleaned up the exerior linkage. Clean the exterior controls on purpose and see if that helps. Maybe even lube. I''d be careful with lubes since they hold dirt to surfaces though.
This info then suggests the problem is with the secondary air injection system. If you start a cold engine then shut it off then restart in every case I've done this -- which is not often -- the secondary air injection pump does not come on the subsequent start even though for all intents and purposes the engine is as cold as it was when it was first started.
When you first start the engine cold do you hear the air injection pump run? (Sounds like a Hoover vacuum cleaner running in the distance.) I don't think this pump not running can account for the symptom but whether it runs or not tells me something.
I'm trying to think of a failure that with the pump running that can appear as an intake air leak that causes the engine to behave the way it does but if you shut off the engine and restart all is well. Not only is the pump not running but the secondary air injection controls have shut off the upstream (upstread of the converters) and has set the valve to downstream or atmosphere position. When the valve is in the upstream position this when the symptom appears. When the valve is no longer in this position the symptom of course no longer appears, is no longer present.
Unless you are willing to delve more deeply into this and perform your own diagnostics I think you're going to need to get the car to a shop for a professional diagnosis.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I just tried it again after it has sat all night and when I first cranked it, the engine was barely idling (approx 500 rpm) and sounded like an engine that was extremely loaded up with fuel. I immediately stopped it and restarted it and it started like normal.......
I am going to the dealer in the morning to have my airbag light turned off (self inflicted) during window regulator installation and will ask them to check it while plugged in the computer.
Thanks,
Tony
I haven't cleaned the MAF, but I have noticed that if I start the car immediately upon turning on the key and not waiting on the oil check to be performed it will start normally. If the key is turned on and I wait for the oil check to be completed, generally it will not idle correctly.
Tony
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