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YOUR RESEARCHShock
Leading reported evidence
Replace rear shocks
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I replaced my rear shocks with OEM, similar to OP expansion joints especially at speed and cornering became a bit scary, car had 63k miles.
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Suggestion
If I replaced items on say my Boxster (with 305K+ miles) (or my Turbo with nearly 150K miles)) because someone somewhere wore out an item X at Y number of miles I would have rebuilt the Boxster from the ground up.
Leading evidence: 'Replace rear shocks' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace items' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I think I run my Turbo's tire pressure 4 PSI down from their loaded PSI.
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Suggestion
If I replaced items on say my Boxster (with 305K+ miles) (or my Turbo with nearly 150K miles)) because someone somewhere wore out an item X at Y number of miles I would have rebuilt the Boxster from the ground up.
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Replace items
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
If I replaced items on say my Boxster (with 305K+ miles) (or my Turbo with nearly 150K miles)) because someone somewhere wore out an item X at Y number of miles I would have rebuilt the Boxster from the ground up.
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Suggestion
When I talk to my techs about replacing the shocks in my 2002 Boxster -- now with 305K+ miles on it and original shocks -- they tell me with no leaks or other signs of shock problems -- car doesn't porpoise and the tires exhibit no signs of shock problems -- the shocks are fine.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Might need to replace my shocks. Don't track but would like to improve the ride on my 03 C4S. Doesn't ride to bad but somewhat slappy when hitting expansion joints etc. what's the life of them. Car is 13 so I would expect replacement...???
Suggestions?.
Shock life is more mileage related than age related. And will depend also on environmental factors - salt, slush and so on. That said, I replaced my 99 C2 OE front shocks at something like 125K about 1.5 years ago because the right front blew the oil seal. Replaced tie rod ends at the same time. Now at 138K. I have found that tire pressure plays a big role in how the car feels. I have 18 inch wheels and run 36/42 psi front/rear and I'm quite happy with how the car rides. Sometimes even a 4-5 psi drop makes the car feel loose and weird.
I replaced my rear shocks with OEM, similar to OP expansion joints especially at speed and cornering became a bit scary, car had 63k miles. new shocks have made a world of difference. Would likely put B6 shocks on it if i was going to do it again as have heard good things about them. I like the current standard ride height as dont track and makes speed bumps etc more achievable. The front shocks were a bit worn, but still seemed to have a good function so i left them. i think you will find replacing the rear shocks even for OEM will make a world of difference.
Its alittle squirrely over small bumps and expansion joints. Maybe just that type of suspension. Otherwise okay.Kinda bangs if you know what I mean. C4s is more track biased I would guess.
Shock life is like clutch life. Varies.
When I talk to my techs about replacing the shocks in my 2002 Boxster -- now with 305K+ miles on it and original shocks -- they tell me with no leaks or other signs of shock problems -- car doesn't porpoise and the tires exhibit no signs of shock problems -- the shocks are fine.
The car still feels good and tire wear is good and still even which indicates the suspension is able to keep the wheels/tires properly located. This is more a statement on the condition of the suspension rather than the shocks, of course.
Shocks won't help ride quality anyway unless of course a shock has failed and the car porpoises or a tire/wheel bounces up and down when driving down the road. You may need someone to follow your car to observe this behavior. (I see it once in a while. The other wheels/tires are pretty stable but one wheel/tire combo is just bouncing up and down like crazy. That's because the shock has lost its ability dampen the spring's action.)
Springs -- coupled with appropriate shocks -- can help ride quality by softening the ride.
For ride quality the easiest thing to do first is be sure the tires are properly inflated. In some cases the inflation pressures listed are for fully loaded cars. Cars less heavily loaded can run tires pressures a few PSI less. Experiment but don't go too low. I think I run my Turbo's tire pressure 4 PSI down from their loaded PSI. That is instead of 36 and 44 -- which are for a fully loaded car with approx. 800lbs of passengers/cargo -- I run 32 and 40. The Boxster tire pressures are 29 and 36 but these pressures are not for a loaded car so I don't lower the pressures.
Well, no. If a shock is worn out one can know it.
A shock can leak but still work but a leaking shock is a shock needing replacing regardless. A leaking shock never gets better.
A car that manifests signs of shock problems, the signs I covered above, is a clear indication one or more shocks is or are bad. Shocks should be replaced at least in pairs and depending upon the mileage replacing all 4 even if 3 are showing no real signs of wear/failing is probably wisest.
There is the old stationary shock test that one can try with these cars and that is to push down on a corner of the car and release and repeat to get the car moving up and down on the spring. Then stop. If the moving up and down doesn't stop immediately that is a sign the shock at that corner is worn/shot. Generally -- well, in all cases I've seen -- either the moving up and down stops immediately or it doesn't. There is no real inetween. Shocks don't appear to half fail.
However, because these cars are so stiffly sprung the only way I can do this test is to stand in the front trunk of my car and move up and down to get the car bobbing up and down then stop moving and observe how long the car takes to stop moving. Right now is as best I can describe it. I have not managed to test the rear shocks in either car this way. I am reluctant to hop up in the rear trunk of the Boxster and there is no way I'm going to try to stand anywhere on the rear of the Turbo.
One has to be careful claiming something is worn just based on miles. If I replaced items on say my Boxster (with 305K+ miles) (or my Turbo with nearly 150K miles)) because someone somewhere wore out an item X at Y number of miles I would have rebuilt the Boxster from the ground up. As it turns out the Boxster runs just fine with its original coils. The original radiator hoses are just fine. The original clutch is just fine. And getting back on the subject, the shocks are fine and show no signs of needing replacement. (I have talked to the techs about doing a "refresh" of the car's shocks/suspension but they say there is no need. They road test the car when I have it for service and report the car is fine. And it feels fine to me to.)
'course one can replace whatever he wants for whatever reason he wants whenever he wants and this includes shocks.
13 yrs old with 10 miles they could be worn out, not holding pressure , external leak, internal leaks, they would deteriorate like a ac compressor, any pump. springs lose tension and settle down, age is always a factor. take them out and feel them and compare with a new one
How are your motor mounts? Worn motor mounts could also cause unbalance in the car especially with small bumps such as bigger expansion joints. All mounts eventually will loose there rigidity and flex and start slowly to sag.
It is one of the most forgotten wear items in our cars. And I consider it as a one of the cheapest and easy upgrades for improving overall handling characteristics.
If your mounts never have been replaced in the cars lifetime it is maybe the moment to also look into this. Not saying that they are the root of your problem. Bet consider them as a wear item and after 75-100k miles could be time to replace them. No need to go for harder or more rigid mounts. Unless you really go for less comfort and some extra vibration. OEM will already make a big difference.
My shocks were shot at 75K. Swapped them out for Eibach springs and Konis. Honestly, the ride improved despite the stiffer suspension. And the car looks so much better lower.
And if your car is on the original motor mounts, swap them out now. Improves handling and shifter precision.
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