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YOUR RESEARCHturn key to start, hear ghost of a sound, engine doesn't turn over
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Replace after i order the part
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I'm gonna take my car in to get this replaced after I order the part.
turn key to start, hear ghost of a sound, engine doesn't turn over
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Leading evidence: 'Replace after i order the part' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'fuel pump' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check these' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Just to clarify, "starter switch" as used above is referring to something that everyone else calls the "ignition switch".
turn key to start, hear ghost of a sound, engine doesn't turn over
fuel pump
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turn key to start, hear ghost of a sound, engine doesn't turn over
good idea
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Suspected cause
Probably a good idea to carefully check all these before you throw parts at the behavior.
turn key to start, hear ghost of a sound, engine doesn't turn over
Check these
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Suggestion
Probably a good idea to carefully check all these before you throw parts at the behavior.
turn key to start, hear ghost of a sound, engine doesn't turn over
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Eventually it does, after a time or two.
Maybe this is from not having the brake pedal depressed?
I can kind of hear a far off starter turning, but only barely...then after turning the key left and right again, it starts.
Anything to be concerned about?
Thanks!
Anything to be concerned about? Well, yes. You asked about it so you are obviously concerned at some level. There's no shame in that. Frankly, I'm always concerned about unreliable/inconsistent starting behavior with my cars. When I turn that key to start I want the engine to start and of course run and continue to run until I turn it off. Every time. No exceptions.
Don't think you have to have the brake pedal depressed to start the engine just the clutch pedal if the car is equipped with a manual transmission. With a Tip the transmission gear selector lever has to be in Park or maybe Neutral.
Starter shouldn't turn until it is fully engaged with the flywheel ring gear. When you turn the key to start this should energize a solenoid which shoves/slides the starter pinion gear outwards and this engages the flywheel ring gear teeth. At this time a circuit is closed which then energizes the starter and it should run and spin up the engine.
When you release the key from the start position the solenoid is powered down and this lets a spring retract the pinion gear which concurrently cuts power to the starter motor.
I'm leaving out some security stuff of course the query for the key's RFID and such.
If I had to make a guess I'd guess the ignition switch is suspect.
But the electrical cabling/connections between the battery, alternator, starter, and all grounds are suspect as well.
Probably a good idea to carefully check all these before you throw parts at the behavior.
I'm also having this from time to time. Do you mean the switch where the key goes? And if so, how does that affect the key? Need to replace that as well?
Easy DIY. Just replace switch at back. Regarding start up procedure, you need to fully depress clutch pedal not brake on my car?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ering_Lock.htm
Mr. Clam, a better description of the ghostly sound would help; a sound clip would help even more.
Re: being concerned - if the my car was not starting reliably, I would worry about my wife winding up stuck somewhere with a car that won't start...
Just to clarify, "starter switch" as used above is referring to something that everyone else calls the "ignition switch". Just do a search on it - there are a ton of threads on it in here.
Buy the ~$27 switch, it's worth the extra money over the $9 part. And Schnell is correct - you need to fix it right away as it
will
strand you, and at the worst time & place possible. The good news is that it is a cheap, quick & easy DIY.
http://www.warehouse33auto.com/parts...10/14/0/4516/0
(use promo code RENNLIST to save 10% by the way)
And if you get in a jam, find the nearest NAPA parts store where they will keep these parts in stock, the cheap model that is, for about $12. But if you have a few days, better to order the more expensive one. If you buy the cheap one, better to just buy 2 and keep the spare in the glove box/door pocket as the cheap one may only last a few months.
Mine had similar symptoms back in the spring. Does the ghost sound start when the key is in the "run" position or only if you turn it all the way to "start"? If it's the run position, it will likely be the fuel pump cycling (sounds like a motor whirring). Mine was this infamous starter switch that others have mentioned. My bet is it's your issue too. A bit frustrating the change first time around, but not highly technical. Removing the left vent in dash made it much easier for me as I could see what I was doing without being upside down under the dash. I don't have all the links handy, but there is tons of info and tips on replacing this. And do yourself a favour and replace the tiny grub screws with a normal screw and then the job becomes tool-less next time.
My noise is definitely the fuel pump. Has that classic pump sound. After 2 or 3 tries, the engine turns over. This morning it just started first try. Made an appointment with the dealer to replace the switch. While I admire you do-it-yourself guys, I almost always get in trouble when I try these things myself. This way the work is guaranteed. Same idea with plumbing in the house LOL!
Thanks. I'm gonna take my car in to get this replaced after I order the part. I am confused about the "Only for Models with Lock Assembly # 996 347 017 "
Which one should I order for my 2001 C4? Thanks!
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