On the hunt 1998 996 LSD found

In my hunt for an early C2 aero I found this 1998 C2 in Vancouver. It has LSD sport seats and some interesting options. Like a rear window blade. https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/5793262218.html So were 98s common in Canada? Also 144km is 87k mi and $25CAD is $18,800 Has anyone imported a 1998 911 or similar car from Canada? Not sure I want to get into all that, but I thought I would share this car as it looks special.

No idea on the importing. One thing to keep in mind though is that the stock LSD is built for the street and is fairly worthless on the track.

My C2 is a 98, original Canadian car as well.

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Good to know.

Looks like a great car. Maybe a bit overpriced though. All North American cars are the same, except for the requirement for DRL in Canada. My 996 came from the US. Should be no problem going the other way. Just the pain of the paperwork.

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its kind of a moot point ,by now the stock lsd (>50K) would need rebuilding and it costs about the same to go stock as it does to go with upgrading all the components to guard ones. and once you do that , the performance is amazing. its weird they did an ims inspection and not replacement , the only way to really inspect it is to pull it out , and if you are in that far you might as well change it. importation should be pretty straight forward.

^^ agreed on the LSD. Send it to Guards to be rebuilt and they can resurface the plates with a compound that is more suitable for the track. The ceramic compound that comes stock just isn't very good.

actually guard replaces all the brass plates with hardened steel ones and uprated clutch disks .

they also , for a road 996 provide 40/60 ramps to replace the weak stock 25/27 ramps . about the only thing that isn't uprated is the diff housing , so its a lot more than a simple resurfacing.

if you want a ppi done in Vancouver Scan Automotive is a great independent Porsche shop . also if it needs any work , the low Canadian dollar will save you 20% on labour .

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This is all assuming you have existing LSD option in the car? I'm asking because if I'm going to refresh the stock LSD unit with Guards parts, would it be the same cost to just add a Guards LSD to a car that didn't come with it at all? Would take the hassle out of finding a 99 aero AND LSD which is unicorn city. (obviously this listing doesn't have aero, but those are the two options I'm looking for together)

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After my research it would be more cost effective to buy a seperate LSD and install it, but consider that with a factory LSD car you also get traction control and thats a valuable feature to protect you from human error in everyday driving or emergency situations.

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And the value of the "220" or "014" sport chassis code on that little sticker.

A somewhat equivalent LSD to the rebuild Vancouver outlined is going to be around ~3-4k for a Guards or OS Giken installed. But unless you are planning on tracking the car a lot I wouldn't bother worrying about it. An LSD setup for the street is not going to help you on the track and an LSD setup for the track is not very good for driving on the street. On the track, a good LSD will gain you 1-2 seconds if you know how to use it. A good set of tires will gain you 5 seconds and really learning how to drive/control your car will gain you 15-20 seconds. Just my observations of course.

I had a 40th anniversary diff (same as the 99 diff) I bought on ebay installed in my 2004 C2 , this diff can be installed in any 996 , although I believe the transmission need a little dremmel work to take off a small casting bump in some early cars. I bought the diff for 400 bucks on ebay and having it guard rebuilt saved about $1800 bucks on buying a guard diff with its custom housing. ( although if it was a race car I'd go with the stronger billet full guard housing) a 40/60 diff is actually a good diff for street and track days , a full race car would use a more aggressive set up but this is the set up guard recommends for the 996 in combined road use and amateur DE, Track day etc . it works just fine for a daily driver too. So unlike the last poster's comment , its not really an all or nothing situation. I can attest that my car is daily driver capable and night and day better than it was stock when you hit the track. Talk to Matt @ guard , he's sold many many units for dual use cars like mine. and yes my car also has PSM.

There are a couple links in this thread showing the guard rebuild and a few comments by Matt https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...2-why-not.html

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You are assuming that he is going to be tracking the car. I would contend that a Guard diff on the street is a complete waste of money. Also, different people have different tolerance for modification of their DD. For instance I would never put poly bushings on my DD as they have been known to increase the NVH and stiffness of the car. Others find it quite enjoyable. It's all a matter of perspective.

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This is a very good point. I would also add that the factory LSD ramps are specifically "weak" to match up with the TC. Stronger ramps will fight the TC.

I can't speak for the earlier cars TC , but in my PSM car the lsd doesn't interfere with it at all , even with the 40/60 ramps . It's not intrusive at all , I've leant my senior citizen mum my car and she didn't notice any thing noise or vibration wise . I have also leant my car to relatives and friends visiting from overseas to use while they are here on holiday and no one has ever stated that its harsh in anyway. I think 40/60 ramps are fine for a daily driver , but talk to guard , they can make any set up you want . You could even leave the stock ramps in and just put in the improved disks and clutches , which is well worth doing , the Porsche ones wear very quickly . In street use the guard ones will last 3x as long ( get a dealer quote on the parts and compare with GT's , gt will give you better parts for the money ) . Some good pics of the stock vs guards clutches and disks here . https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ntial-lsd.html As for poly bushes , I have the road series purple ones , they don't increase nhv , they perform like brand new gt3 ones without degradation over time and no Extra noise . My car is street focused as that's it's use 99% of the time . The black ones are for track cars https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/why-pu its not a matter of perspective its a matter of matching parts to purpose.

I've never driven a TC car with 40/60 either, or a PSM for that matter. I just know that when Porsche released the LSD the stated reasoning for the weak ramp was so that it would work correctly with the TC. I had a factory stock TC/LSD combo and it was nice. It was also a notable improvement in street driving over the non-LSD cars. Not a huge difference but just -- better.

if I was going to buy a car and was Going to retrofit with an lsd (vs a factory equipped one ) Id get a second generation 996 and install one over the gen 1 car . the gen 2 cars have a much stronger transmission. This doesn't get mentioned much on this forum

Hi. This is my car. Long time lurker, first time poster? I generally read a couple pages of rennlist 996 posts before a long road trip... keeps me grounded. LSD still seems to work. I've driven two other 996's (without LSD) and they're definitely less fun. I imported this car from Japan in 2013. I've imported a few JDM cars over the years. If you can find a car that's been driven consistently and has documented maintenance you usually get a better used car than what's available in North America. Here I also got the RoW sport suspension, euro bumpers and no secondary air injection system (2 less o2 sensors and some other junk that likes to break). If the OP is American and truly interested in my car, they would need to look into a few things relating to the cars origin. My first thought would be it's ineligible for US import but who knows. Someone asked about the IMS inspection crap I wrote. I stole that from all the other 996 posts on craigslist after answering the same question over and over. It's true though... I inspected it this summer, cleaned it up real nice, and left my transmission on the ground for a week while I thought about it. I came to the conclusion that I'll screw around with it next clutch... maybe. It looked fine, I change my oil, I drive my car often and the car works great as is. I'd be happier to have not mentioned the IMS at all but without fail it's the first thing anyone asks about (thanks JR ). To me there are much more relevant/worrying issues with the M96 worth discussing but it's always the damn IMS.

once you have the tranny out , it takes about and hour to swap it out . I've got the L&N IMSB tools I'd lend (with a 100% refundable deposit) to someone in Vancouver if they wanted to do the job. I've got the rear main seal tool too.

Deciding to leave my IMS bearing had nothing to do with the amount of time it would take to do the job. I got over the IMS fear long ago and can now drive my car far and wide without worry. Personally, I'd worry more with a replaced IMS bearing and all the new ways I could have cocked something up. Sure you can pull it out of the engine but you put a lot of stress on the chains and case in the process. Installing the bearing seems even more worrying. I figure this engine has another ~100,000km in it before its completely used up. An engine refresh seems like the perfect time to replace the bearing... just like Porsche intended. The only medium good reason (I can see) for replacing the IMS is to appease potential buyers. But any prudent buyer shouldn't put much faith in the PO anyways. Especially with something as sketchy as IMS bearing replacement. Once the papers are signed and the keys are exchanged they can do whatever they want to their car. All this said... if I owned a single row bearing car I'd install a new bearing with my purchase.