Took plunge and removed engine!

Took the plunge and finally removed the 996 engine/trans in order to do a lot of preventative maintenance. Pulling the engine gave me the most access and should save me a lot of time and scraped knuckles. Updates include: LNE IMS bearing, VarioCam pads and chains, AOS, Coolant tank, Oil cooler seals, Water pump, spark plugs, spark plug tubes and seals. The �Engine Pull Party� stated Friday night with some other local Porsche owners from KCWS.org helping to prep the car. After a bunch of beer, and about 3 hrs later, we were about 80% done. 3 items were giving us troubles and we decided to call it an evening. I had a fresh team of helpers late Saturday morning to face our 3 hurdles, remove the bottom bracing, lift the rear of the car a little higher and drop the engine. AC compressor - The 2 front bolts are easy to remove, but the top one is impossible to see or find. The illustration in the manual makes it look easy, but it is a drawing, not a pic. The only way to remove it is to drop the engine close to a foot that will allow you to get your head in there to get a real view and added access. Vent tube - There is a vent tube that is on the passenger side of the engine. The manual says to pull collar in one direction and the tube will slide in the other. Nope. They forgot to tell you about the gray plastic collar that has to be removed. Throttle cable - My car is a �99 with a throttle cable. The manual said to twist and turn the connection under the car. Wrong. You have to unclip the box next to the coupling and slide the wire connect off. I have to thank �Doc Wilen � local expert on everything Porsche� who was there to solve these 3 roadblocks and lend his supersonic wrenching. He was nice enough to put down the GT3 he was working on and come to the party to lend a very valuable hand. Thanks again! Long story short- the engine dropped with little fanfare and we removed the transmission from the engine. I was very interested to see what the condition of the clutch was, hoping it wouldn't add another $600 to my expenses. But we had a little surprise. One of the allen head bolts was rounded and the mechanic simply used a chisel to �tighten it up�. WTF?? The good news was that when we got to the clutch it looked brand new- Yeah!!!! (funny-I don�t remember seeing a new clutch in the service records- but I�m happy � time for lunch and a beer) Next we started replacing parts. The AOS was simple- a 10 minute job versus a couple of hours if the engine was in the car. I will cut into the old one and see the condition of the diaphragm. It was the original and is well past it's expected life. Coolant tank also was replaced in a couple of mins rather than hours. Replacing the famous IMS bearing was next. I bought the LNE kit and borrowed Kyle�s IMS tools(slightly used) The IMS replacement is a piece of cake. (We spend 10x more time and effort to get the AC compressor out!) The "sour/sweet" moment is when you have the original bearing in your hand and it appears to be in �LIKE NEW� condition. (Oh yeah BTW, my �99 has 101k, good service records, oil changed every ~5k, some track time, driven on a regular basis, and spent it�s life in CA. ) The RMS had been replaced about 2 years ago and was still not leaking. Doc noticed it was cockeyed but we decided to leave wel enough alone. The IMS bearing popped out with very little effort and you have to pay more attention to installing the new bearing to make sure you don�t start going in at an angle. Nice surprise was that the kit also includes the 5 case bolts that Porsche recommends upgrading. I had already bought 5 The 4 Oil cooler seals were next on the list and these were easy and just slightly messy. If these seals fail you will get intermix, makes sense to just replace them @ 100k. Tonight I will replace the water pump and start on the VarioCam pads and chains. I am also fabrication the cam holders and the VarioCam compression tool. (DHarn- thanks for the drawings and all you communication on the VarioCams!) More updates & pics to come�. And thanks again for all the local Porsche addicts that helped!

Nice job and good write up! All the wrenching going on lately gives me thoughts of taking this project on.

It would be interesting to see how many original IMS bearings come out in good shape with all these DIYs..

99% would be my guess once a bearing starts to fail they degrade rather quickly (esp if the issue is lack of lubrication) the "fix" is not really a fix but rather a prevention of a potential issue (IMO)

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I agree with you. The recent work being done on the cars regardless of doing the IMS is giving me confidence on taking a major projects on....I'm starting to think I could do a clutch on my own.

The rear AC bolts is a bear the first time, but there is a simple way. Remove the heat sensor that fits between the 4 and 5 intake runner. then you have pretty much a straight shot at the bolt. Use a 13mm socket and a 6" extension. Put it in place before you put on the socket wrench. I use a 3/8" set for this. It is hard to see, OK you can't see it, but once you have done it the 2nd time is cake. This way you can take off the AC compressor before you drop the engine. Its great that you got all this done. I am still thinking of going back in this summer for the LN bearing upgrade.

Thanks guys! The 996 might be the easiest engine I've ever pulled (and I've pulled alot). And I think you will find more people electing to go this route. Pull the engine and replace the 'hard to get to' maintenance parts all at once. I was looking at my hands today and thinking "usually after pulling an engine or trans, my hands will show at least a few battle scars, but they are perfect" I'm liking this car more every day!!

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Absolutely right, you have to remove the sensor. I wish the maunal was more clear in a few of these procedures. I think most first timers will find it easier to do, as you start dropping the engine - allows for more working space. I'm starting on the VarioCam tonight. Thanks again for your info!

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I totally agree! It would be pure luck to catch it just before it failed. Sort of like not having a gas gage and having you car run out of gas just as you happen to pull up to a gas pump. Same odds. If the consequence wasn't so expensive, it would be interesting to see how long these cars can run with the original bearing. Looking at this one, I'd say another 100k.

looks like these 996's are starting to get into the hand's of the DIY mechanics..... i be posting a fuel vent valve replacement soon when i get around to it...

wow.. Way to go!

Great write up.

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+1.... like Kyle mention previously, this stuff isnt rocket science. Way to go on the R&R.

I get surprised by how easy things are on the 996 all the time. It's perhaps the easiest starter replacement I've done on a car newer than 1990 or so, and one certainly wouldn't think that from looking at it... I'll be curious to see how many more bearings we'll see in fine shape as well, my guess is quite a few.

Oh... so that's how the AC compressor should come out. Man, I thought my Dad was going to cuss it out! Sorry I couldn't make it on Saturday for the more interesting work. Thx for the pics and for taking this on for the KC crowd to get a first-hand look at what is involved.

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Agreed that it makes sense to replace those but there is no way you'll get oil / cooler intermix if they fail. Because they're external to the engine, worst case is you'll end up with an oil or coolant (or both) leak. But intermix - no way.

update: spent more time cleaning up and organizing tools, but eventually got back to engine. I removed the mufflers, brackets to gain access to valve covers. They were very dirty so I cleaned then and vacuumed the engine. I'll fab the cam locating tool tomorrow and pull the valve cover off. Replaced the water pump. After reading about the nightmares people have with the bolts, I decided to just remove the cats and the engine mount bracket. Takes 10 minutes to remove and turns removing the water pump into a 5 min job. Also get a hose loosening tool for the hoses. After 10 years they are glued to the pipes. Really makes a difference. Removing the engine makes all these difficult projects very easy.

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Thanks for your help on Friday. Karl (Doc) eventually got it out. Dropping the engine did help. Makes a difference once you can visualize it. Did you get the 2 post lift setup?

The only other engine thats easier than a 996 to remove is a 356. Since I sold my 356 to get my 996, I now refer to it as the "6". I did have the RMS failure, but no IMS, my ultimate was a crank failure. But thats ok, it lead me to an opportunity for a upgrade. Now were packing a Jake Raby Flat 6 Innovations 3.8 with all the goodies and looking forward to many years of fun! PS if anyone in MN wants to do a pull and retrofit, my lift is available.

I'm liking this forum more every day. No more fart jokes or comments about buying parts that don't fit.

What a great write up 15psi, and pulling the engine/trans out makes so much sense especially if you have a luandry list of components to replace. How long did it take just to remove the engine/trans? Thanks for all the pics and info...well done.

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Thanks! I'm thinking about 5 hours (with power tools). Way too much time was wasted on the AC compressor- I know better now. Probably shave 25-30% off that time if I were to do it again. When I'm done I'll post all the part numbers, 'must have' tools and best time savers.

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I had a 356 also- definitely the easiest to remove. I saw a TV program where 5~6 guys removed a VW engine in something like 7 minutes to break a World record. Pretty amazing.

I'm am no mechanic. But, I removed the engine out of my '76 912E in, what, half hour....20 minutes of that was taking off the tin! And, did I say that I am not a mechanic. Thanks PSI, great stuff. ITusler...where you at?

awesome write up and pics! +1 on DIY'ers owning these cars and sharing basic, and not so basic mechanical work.

I'm out in Maple Grove. Co Rd 47 and Vicksburg. I usually charge a case of good German beer for lift access.

Continuing to make good progress... In the last 2 evenings, I decided that mounting the engine to a engine stand would make the cam work much easier and I wouldn't have to worry about the lifters falling out or wishing I had 4 hands. This meant cutting the stand so I could use the OEM bolts. Another hour consumed. I welded up the 'cam locator tool' that holds the cams in place while you take the valve cover off. Also made the threaded tool that compresses the Variocam. (thanks Dharn55 for the info!) Now with the engine on a stand and the proper tools I tackled the removal of the cam cover and replacing the VarioCam pads and chains. Everything went well. The top pad was VERY worn, glad I did this. The real surprise was the loose spark plug . It was literally taken out with just my finger tips. This explains the chirping noise that started recently, that I couldn't find. Also the spark plug electrodes were worn. I'd assume that they were originals. Tonight I finish assembling the cylinders 1-3 and move to 4-6. With any luck, I will also mount the transmission back and start to move engine back into the car.

nice work Jim!!

Indeed, and great pics of work entailed.

Friday Update: I accomplished a lot last night- but no pics - sorry- The good news is that the 4-6 VarioCam pads/chains are done. I had about 3 hours invested in 4-6 bank. Then turned the engine on the stand and started on the 1-3 bank. It took me ~45 mins. Bam! [I really don't see doing this while the engine is in the car, and ideally you will need a motorcyle jack (remove engine from car), engine stand (work on and rotate engine), and cherry picker (place engine on engine stand) to work on engine outside the car] It was interesting that none of the plugs were tight and the one was already coming out. I put in new sparkplugs, spark plug tubes and seals which only took 5 mins. I know I keep saying it, but this engine is so easy to work on when it is outside of the car. What's next for the weekend? Weld a nut on the broken header bolt and remove. I done this many many times and only had to drill once. Then put the mufflers on. Install clutch, etc and then mount transmission. Roll it under the car, jack it up and start reconnecting eveything. Fill with water and oil. Replace tires and bumper. Will some luck I'll be driving Sat or Sun.

great work Jim and contributing the information to RL.

I use a mix of stainless steel grease and wd40 to soak my guns in when stored since I don't have cosmoline. I notice you cleaned portions of the exterior of your engine. Just wondering if you have any cosmoline to help keep the aluminum fresh. I just found this in case you want the same deal. http://www.commercialforms.com/Detail.bok?no=172 PS can I go for the ride when you finally nail it again

Is there a good DIY guide, steps by step to remove the engine ? I see a couple of you guys did this, but it is still pretty scary for the newbie, unless there is really a good step by step guide. Phil

Is there a good DIY guide, steps by step to remove the engine ? I see a couple of you guys did this, but it is still pretty scary for the newbie, unless there is really a good step by step guide. Phil

your my type of DIY'er... except my pocket really regret rebuilding an engine...

Nice work Jim B!!! Thanks for posting the great write-up and pics. Best of luck to you.

Now this is why I love this site. Contributions like this are so valuable, two thumbs up Jim!!!

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http://cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm That's a link to 996 workshop manuals in PDF format. Following the "Engine Removal" steps, along with some of your own ingenuity, will get the job done. Also, be sure to follow Jim & Dharn's advice on the rear AC compressor bolt and others here that have experienced various anomalies. Jim, you got er done yet? My lift is waiting.... LOL

I'm nearly done- just making all the connections and lifting the engine/trans. I'll post all the shortcuts I found, when I'm done. And the ups and downs from yesterday. Back to the garage...... here a pic as proof of progress

WOW.. fantastic. Can you get more pix of the worn cam chain pad after you took it off and got it cleaned up.. How many miles?

The car started on the first crank! It runs better than before. The chirping from the loose spark plug is gone, it is idling very smoothly, and I don't hear any lifer noise. I would like to say it is faster, but that would would be entirely SoP. Already cleaned the garage, put all the tools away and ready to call it a day- I'll post pics and all the recent info, learned tips, part numbers and key tools tomorrow. Just happy to have the car back and happy it started

Now the after a wash and wax Great job man. Really glad it went all good.

Congrats...you my friend have some biig ***** especially since it was done for preventative maint. !!! I just went through the manual....looks like a major PITA to drop the motor. Ill only be dropping the motor when and if it self destructs.

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Must feel great to listen to the engine now that it's all ready to go with so many 'improvements', nice job!

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Here are some the best resources: http://www.pelicanparts.com/boxster/boxster_tech.htm http://www.986fix.com/photos.php http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=glenn986s#g/u and of course the Porsche Service Manual.

WTG Jim!

Sweet!

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Here is a close up pic of the top pad from the 1-3 bank. This was the worst pad. As you can see the wear was bad enough that 'rails' of the chain had caused deep ruts and the links of the chain were now coming incontact with the pads and causing deep pitting. The bottom pad had much less wear. ( I saw similar wear pattern on my 968 when I replaced them @ 100k) The 4-6 pad top pad was not as worn and I'll post a pic tonight. Replacing these eliminated the chain noise I was having on start up. The engine is quieter at idle. I had a little lifter noise (minor) and that appears to be basically gone also. The car has 101k. (But is feels and looks like 20k)

Jim, Fantastic job on the entire project. Bring your car to breakfast next Saturday and show it off.

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For fun throw one of the old chain tensioner pads and a spilt cup of apple juice underneath the engine when you park. It'll give people something to talk about.

Great job! Thanks for the valuable info.

what jack did you use to pull the engine? I am in the middle of this. thanks- john

Very nice! Bookmarked for future reference.

You are a brave **** with great friends. Getting it back is where I always run into problems !

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Thanks! Yeah that's when they all left Putting it back together is more fun when I label everything, take pics and bag small parts. I need to update this thread with final pics and the 'things I learned" plus a list of parts with #'s. The good news is that is has been over a month, car runs better than even! And I sleep great knowing it has a new IMS and other parts. And I saved a ton of money!