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YOUR RESEARCHCar wont start - Help
Leading reported evidence
Check fuse c1 (main fuse panel) (powers the dme relay)
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Suggestion
Also check Fuse C1 (Main fuse panel) (Powers the DME Relay)
Leading evidence: 'Check fuse c1 (main fuse panel) (powers the dme relay)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fuse c1 (main fuse panel) (powers the dme relay)' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You able to put a meter on this and see if it changes state when operated?
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Suggestion · Original poster
The car had been running strong the night before with no signs of any electrical issues.
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Well im pretty bummed out right now. I went out to the car this morning and it will not start.
When I put the key in and turn to the start position almost all the dash lights turn on and stay lit. The car does not even attempt to turn over.
I dont think it is the battery. Stereo works fine, even when cranked up. The battey is 7 years old though and its a 7 year battery.
Ive been having some ignition issues where the key gets stuck or when I pull the key out the power still stays on. Ive ordered a new ignition switch already and it should be here any.
Im not sure if this is ignition related or some other electrical issue. I figure since the battery is old I will replace it today and see if that does make a difference, but like I said it doesnt appear to be a battery issue.
The car had been running strong the night before with no signs of any electrical issues.
Any help trying to figure this out would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
I'm pretty sure it's the battery.
I have never had any battery last 7 years....4-5 is the max I usually get out of mine. In some cars it was every 2 years.
I'd bet battery as well...the amps needed to start the car are much greater than the power needed for the stereo, etc. 7 years is very old (batteries age like dogs). Easy...just jump it.
Battery maybe - but the faulty ignition switch is a known issue, and you sound like you have those symptoms - need to fix that as well, or you may be in the same position with your new battery in very short order
Def battery this happened to me a few months ago. Everything seem to work but car wouldnt even click. Get a new battery and youll be off my man like a prom dress my man
well not the battery
Im praying its the ignition switch now.
The one problem I see that made me think it was not the battery is almost every wanring lamp comes on and they do not go off.
If you can get a meter on the start relay - you can see if power is getting to it or not.
Check it's fuse first - if you haven't all ready
But I still have money on the ignition switch issue
I did look for the fusable link but I did not see it. I figured since everything does get power this couldnt be the problem. Is there a fuse specific to the start relay? I couldnt find it on the fuse chart.
Yeah its hitting it.
Im really starting to think its the ignition switch assembly. Like I said it had been giving me problems and when I turn the key it doesnt quite feel the same.
Well it's a known issue - but not sure I ever heard it actually stop the car from starting directly - more often it just killed the battery by leaving stuff 'on'
However, as it's in the direct path for the ignition (no ****!) it's certainly a prime suspect as we said
Just going through a few other easy items before you start the painful task of crawling under the dash with your specially shortened screwdriver to do the ignition switch...
Fuse looks ok. I did try moving the steering wheel as well.
Once thing I noticed, now that Ive ripped about the entire lining in the front hood firewall space I hear a clicking when i just move the key to the start position.
Also in my reading I came across start-inhibit relay. From what I read this is located under the driver seat. Could this be another possible issue?
Yep - this is relay panel 2
Relay 1 is the DME power supply (can also stop the car starting)
Relay 7 is the Start inhibit or lock relay (Failure kills the start)
Also check Fuse C1 (Main fuse panel) (Powers the DME Relay)
You able to put a meter on this and see if it changes state when operated?
I think it's a push to break - but that's just from memory, and I may be 100% wrong!
It's a 50/50 chance either way, but if it doesn't change state, then you know it's SNAFU
ok red lights and sirens just went off here
where is the rfid located?
I picked up the 911 key housing and my internals from my old key didnt work
So I put together the new key the night before this happened and swapped out the internals and the housing
Is there an RFID tag there???
I didnt even think to mention anything about the key becuase I thought it would have no bearing here
BINGO - WE HAVE A WINNER!
It's imbedded in the key housing I believe - and the car has to be 'trained' to recognize each key housing and allow the immobilizer to be turned off, just by that key being in the ignition.
This is separate from the remote alarm set-reset, and separate from the physical metal key - so it's a 3 tier system.
You still got that old housing?
I do have the old housing. Though I had 2 housing and the new one so this may take a couple swaps to make sure its the right one.
Is there a way to transfer the rfid or should I just get the new key cut and then reprogrammed by dealer.
ill be back shortly, hopefully with a starting car .
Well I owe you a beer..several actually. Started up!!!
I see the 'pill' as well. Im a little scared to even transfer at this point as I am just super stoked the car works!
Thanks for following through with this. I guess Ill never leave out any details again, I would have never known there was an rfid in the key housing.
Beer!
Glad it's working.
The RFID 'pill' is totally self contained - has no power to it at all and is completely passive electronics.
When the key is turned in the ignition, there is an induction field generated from a 'receiver' coil in the ignition lock, and this energizes the pill to transmit it's code across the air gap.
If you swap the pill into a new key, it should read quite happily.
ahh.. I just went for a drive..much better
It was better than a normal drive. Kinda like when youve been in the dog house with your sig other and you make up and have make up sex
well..this was make up drive
