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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhat to look for in 99' 996
Leading reported evidence
Use car
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Use car' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check regular maintenance having been performed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Ask for records and check for regular maintenance having been performed.
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Suggestion
check for updated/changed out coolant tank....new one should be nice and white, not yellowie.
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Suggestion
Run your fingers along the panel edges on the front and rear hood or any other edge for respray (rough surface).
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Looking at a low mileage (50k) 1999 996. Any feedback as to what I should be looking for other than confirmation that RMS has been addressed. Thanks.....
So much has been discussed ...try the search button, lots of info at your fingertips. My 99' recently passed the 50k mark, and it's barely broken in. Consider a PPI preferably with someone who knows Porsches well, and not just the air cooled variety. GL
I just bought mine this past March. I brought it up from Florida with 51,000 miles and paid just over $22k for it. No leaks no issues what so ever...lovin' it.
Even if the RMS hasn't been addressed, don't let that put you off - not all of them leak. And even if it has been addressed that doesn't mean it won't leak again in the future. Bottom line: Get a PPI from a reputable source and proceed accordingly.
PPI is #1!!!!!!!!
Prior to PPI:
1. Open up the front carpeted area in the truck and look for damage in the front from an rear ending somthing.
2. Run your fingers along the panel edges on the front and rear hood or any other edge for respray (rough surface).
3. Look at rear tires look at the inner edge for wear. Outer and inner are not the same.
4. Center console hinge, is it broken? does it have the revised hinge kit?
5. Leaks Leaks Leaks (PPI should add more info)
6. Shimmy while driving
7. Ticking in the engine at idle (PPI should add more info on this.)
8. Look at the wear of the seats.
9. Make sure the lights in the dash work to show CELs engine lights etc.
Once again geta PPI!
220 option code as the LSD is only offered on the 99 (as an option) and the 40th anniversary cars. If this is a street driven car only, it's not as important.
Well, first and foremost the '99 is a 11 to 12 year old car (albeit with lower than average annual miles accumulated) so you would need to verify the entire car's overall condition and all the car's subsystems specific condition.
There's more to an older car, and an older Porsche than just worrying about the RMS.
Then just apply a thorough check out of the car that involves a good visual inspection, going over the car's service records -- mainly you want to see the car's received some regular servicing and a bonus is if the records indicate the owner's taken care of the little things, that the car was loved.
Before starting engine verify check engine light and all other warning lights come on and it and all other warning lights go off at engine start or shortly thereafter.
Arrange to start the engine from cold and listen carefully that the enigne starts up right away, settles into a smooth if somewhat faster idle, and as the engine warms up the idle drops and the engine of course remains quiet, tick, rattle, knock, free.
You want a good long test ride -- 15+ miles. The route wants to provide you with the chance to experience the car in a variety of driving situations: city/stop and go, surface roads, and highway and freeway driving.
Once warmed up the engine wants to be taken to near redline in at least two gears to ensure the engine pulls smooth from off idle to its rev limit.
Be sure the engine gets treated to some rather low rpm high load driiving, but no lugging or bogging the engine allowed. The kind of driving say where you're moving down a thoroughfare at say 45mph at a steady speed/pace with the transmission in as high a gear as is reasonable. Roughly the gear chosen wants to have the engine speed around 2K or a bit less.
What you want to do is subject the engine to operating conditions in which the cylinders have their best chance of being as filled as they can be. The desire is to have the engine experience the highest cylinder pressures possible.
This occurs not at WOT but under part throttle and rather low engine speeds in which the throttle is open as wide as it can be. Under this kind of driving the cylinders will fill with more air and of course more fuel will be added so there's going to be more mixture to burn. Ignition advance will be at its maximum, though it is retarded rather quickly if any attempt to accelerate the car is made from this state.
The idea is under this situation if there is any weakness in the engine it will make itself known by misfires.
If all goes well, after 15 miles or so you return to home base and then take the car out again following the same route and driving it the same way.
Once back to the starting point you allow the engine to idle -- this time nice and hot from the test ride and drive -- and again verify the engine is quiet and smooth. A/C should be off so the engine gets as hot as it can before the electric radiators are turned on and also you'd like to hear the engine compartment fan come on and of course go off too.
Then you check out the other systems like A/C, lights, any comfort features (adjustlable seats, etc.), windows, doors, locks, and so on.
Just like you'd do with any other used car.
Then if you still think the car's worth owning and believe you can make a deal arrange to have the car treated to a PPI and of course this looks for signs of any leaks and what have you. A read of the engine overrevs should be done and while one assumes this is done too you might mention it and be sure you see it a readout of the car's airbag controller deployment count.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Personally I prefer the seats without the "comfort leather" option. (I think that's what it was called?)
That seems to show wear a bit more, but they're still nice.
The standard leather seats are more traditional leather look (non-pleated).
Macster is great, you should also monitor the power windows up and down, if they struggle/make internal noise, it may need a new regulator.
My dealer replaced one for me saving me almost $500.
check for updated/changed out coolant tank....new one should be nice and white, not yellowie.
Ask for records and check for regular maintenance having been performed.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
