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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHMounts and Bushings
Leading reported evidence
Replace transmission mounts
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I changed the transmission mounts to new original ones same time with engine out service and LWFW install.
Leading evidence: 'Replace transmission mounts' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'tough starter car' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend some research' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Probably a tough starter car, but what is life without a challenge.
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Suggestion
I would recommend some research before jumping to a single mass flywheel set-up.
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Suggestion
@OP It is important to understand when considering a single mass flywheel that better balancing of the whole running assembly, even if complete with flywheel is not going to change anything to the amount of twisting of the crankshaft from each piston on its powerstroke.
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Suggestion
Before the change, I was very concerned for LWFW / sprung Sach clutch plate braking the crank and took one year doing my reseach and asking in few forums (including RL) who has seen these crank daamge happen on their own or their shops clients cars - result was clear 0.
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Suggestion
@OP It is important to understand when considering a single mass flywheel that better balancing of the whole running assembly, even if complete with flywheel is not going to change anything to the amount of twisting of the crankshaft from each piston on its powerstroke.
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Suggestion
Before the change, I was very concerned for LWFW / sprung Sach clutch plate braking the crank and took one year doing my reseach and asking in few forums (including RL) who has seen these crank daamge happen on their own or their shops clients cars - result was clear 0.
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Suggestion
Fwiw, my trans mount needs to be replaced so i figured i would use the FF soft (orange) insert this season and then drop the trans this winter to replace the trans mount, look over the clutch, flywheel, rms and Ln retro imsb.
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Suggestion
If you want to tighten up the car, refresh or better yet, upgrade the shocks to adjustable coilovers, replace the suspension arms because the bushings start to disintegrate, add a good set of sway bars w/ drop links and the car will tighten up.
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Suggestion
@OP It is important to understand when considering a single mass flywheel that better balancing of the whole running assembly, even if complete with flywheel is not going to change anything to the amount of twisting of the crankshaft from each piston on its powerstroke.
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Suggestion
Fwiw, my trans mount needs to be replaced so i figured i would use the FF soft (orange) insert this season and then drop the trans this winter to replace the trans mount, look over the clutch, flywheel, rms and Ln retro imsb.
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I am about to start stripping down my transmission and engine and while doing that plan to replace engine mounts, transmission mounts, and all the bushings in the rear support frame. I was thinking about going standard OE on the bushings and mounts until I saw mentioned about Torque engine mounts and Power Flex for the bushings.
I am not looking to make my 2000 cabriolet a track car, but I do like precision. One of my first upgrades was the full numeric shifter kit and cables. Does anyone have any experience with the Torque engine mounts or purple power flex bushings/mounts?
There is some data out there suggesting stiffer mounts can induce false knock signals resulting in engine power derate conditions. You may want to do some additional research to decide, but if you not planning to track the car I would suggest sticking with stock quality mounts. By now most original mounts are well past their prime, replacing with new will provide a noticable difference.
Above post refers to the engine mounts.
PU bushes have to stay lubricated to prevent squeaking noises, which driving with the top down might anoy a lot sooner and more than in a coup�.
I would stay stock and not even bother with the subframe bushes.
thank you that is helpful. The subframe is really dried out due to age, so might replace them with aftermarket stock.
curious your thoughts on Sachs performance 996clutchkt1 for a non track car? Will that also create what I have read transmission rocks?
I would recommend some research before jumping to a single mass flywheel set-up. Many owners regret this modification due to shock loading of the engine & transmission (broken components), increased noise & vibration, etc. For a non track car it's considered overkill.
that is what I heard as well. That�s why I was kind of curious from this form if anybody has any experience with it personally. I�ve heard there have been some problems in the past and I don�t wanna go that route if all of a sudden I�m gonna end up regretting it.
so I read through, but really did not answer if it is a mistake or just a little extra noise. I would be going with aasco single flywheel and sprung clutch.
do you think that is a mistake?
It would be good to do research on this and make decision after that.
I have had this setup for two years on my car with 50/50 street and track use.
Before the change, I was very concerned for LWFW / sprung Sach clutch plate braking the crank and took one year doing my reseach and asking in few forums (including RL) who has seen these crank daamge happen on their own or their shops clients cars - result was clear 0.
Was still a bit cautious, but purchased the Aasco LWFW, Sach sprung clutch and Sachs pressureplate (& throwout bearing). Took those first 3 items to local rece shop to get balanced together. Never any problems and response on the engine for gas pedal is superb compared to original.
Anyhow you'll get on idle with gear on neutral and clutch pedal up, some noice - same kind like in 996.1 GT3 since it has same style LWFW setup.
if you were doing it over again would you do this same setup or go back to the duel flywheel?
side question, did you change out your transmission mount at same time. Doing some research on function first soft insert and wondering if making a mistake.
Fwiw, my trans mount needs to be replaced so i figured i would use the FF soft (orange) insert this season and then drop the trans this winter to replace the trans mount, look over the clutch, flywheel, rms and Ln retro imsb.
What i found was that I had quite a bit of vibration above 3000 rpm with the FF insert.
As a simple short term stop gap measure, the FF insert does the job. But the vibration may drive you nuts.
Quite frankly...
I can't figure out why anybody that doesn't have a full time race car would want stiff engine and trans mounts. Nor can I figure out why anybody would want a LWFW.
They are like the really "hot" girl in college thats alot of fun, but after 2 weeks she starts to drive you nuts.
If you want to tighten up the car, refresh or better yet, upgrade the shocks to adjustable coilovers, replace the suspension arms because the bushings start to disintegrate, add a good set of sway bars w/ drop links and the car will tighten up.
If you have an e-gas pedal, all you have to do is get a software package from a reputable company that specializes in the 996. They all improve the throttle response. People swear that their software gave them more power. It didn't. But what it did do was improve the throttle response. No need for a LWFW and all of its baggage.
That is exactly what I am doing right now, just dropped the transmission. I bought a good condition 996 with 116,000 miles to rebuild. Probably a tough starter car, but what is life without a challenge. The car was well kept, but looks like most items are original. I plan to work my way from inside out. these are the projects I plan to do from now till spring.
1) Numeric shifter and cables (done; what a great feel it gives)
2) new clutch and flywheel (still need to pick out brand)
3) New master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch spring
4) UAOS
5) new IMS retro fit
6) New mounts for trans/bushing for Trans, Engine, Sway bar & Rear sub frame. I have some squeeks in car trying to get out.
How do you plan to press in the new bushings?
7) New Sway bar links, control arms shocks/springs, rims and tires.
That is what I got for this winter. Next tare down going to start working on cooling system, brakes etc.
If you have any suggestions or products to stay away from. I am all ears. Man do the cost add up even doing the work myself.
You can reduce the "shock load" on engine by replacing the main pulley, where the long serpentine belt is, with a 997 unit. It has a harmonic balancer in it to reduce shocks, fits, no problem.
997 Front Pulley Harmonic Damper, 997 102 241 01 will fit 996 engines.
YMMV
I would do the same setup again, with balancing at good reputable race engine shop.
I changed the transmission mounts to new original ones same time with engine out service and LWFW install. I have now purchased mid-level semi-solid transmission mounts that I have a plan to install next winter with other stuff while snow is in the ground here.
@OP It is important to understand when considering a single mass flywheel that better balancing of the whole running assembly, even if complete with flywheel is not going to change anything to the amount of twisting of the crankshaft from each piston on its powerstroke. It is this varying twisting that a dual mass flywheel damps thereby achieving the durability/service life of the crankshaft.
Replacing it with a single mass flywheel will reduce the crank's service life.
Consider fitting the M97 crankshaft pulley, when going single mass flywheel as it is a 2 piece part that damps the torsional oscillations of the crankshaft. That way you can basically have your cake AND eat it.
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