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YOUR RESEARCHRotor Change
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Use snap
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I tried the Sears 10mm hex socket but snapped a couple, so now I use Snap On.
Leading evidence: 'Use snap' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check rotors' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
When you replace these make sure you don't over tighten them.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Are there any "secrets" or "tricks" that I need to be aware of when I change these out???
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Suggestion
Use a copper anti-seaze on the threads of the calipers bolts when you replace them.
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Got the new rotors and the new bolts to hold the calipers. Are there any "secrets" or "tricks" that I need to be aware of when I change these out???
I haven't put the micometer on the old rotors yet, but I've gone through two sets of Pagid orange and one set of stock pads. It looks like I'll be showing some wear!!
I assume you are referring to front rotors? I've never replaced a set that was below minimum width, mine always develop long cracks between the holes first.
It's pretty straight forward to swap rotors. The caliper bolts are 10mm hex and you'll probably need a torque wrench to break them loose. I tried the Sears 10mm hex socket but snapped a couple, so now I use Snap On. On the front calipers, you'll also need to remove the bracket on the upright that supports the brake line, I think that's a 10mm bolt. Have a bungy or something handy to hang the caliper from the spring, so that you don't put any tension on the brake line itself.
There are two small philips head screws that hold the caliper on the wheel hub. These can sometimes be a little difficult to break loose and they are easy to strip the head. When you replace these make sure you don't over tighten them.
Install the new rotor, and then the caliper. You may have to force the pistons back into the caliper so that the pads clear the new rotor. Use a copper anti-seaze on the threads of the calipers bolts when you replace them. Torque the caliper bolts to spec, which I think is around 60 ft lbs but check to be sure.
Bed the new rotors the same way you would bed in a new set of Pagid pads. Bed the rotors using old pads, even if you plan to install new pads. Its better not to try to bed new pads and rotors at the same time.
Hope this helps.
Karl
I just "miked" the old rotor and the new one. The old one was 1.102 inches and the new one is 1.101 inches. I suppose that one thousandth of an inch is within spec!!
The worn area is down to 1.084. I have some cracks, but they don't appear to be very deep, nor have they spread from one vent hole to the next!
I was just gonna change them now because I had the time. Can I wait one more three day DE then change them??? I'd heard that the cracks from one hole to the next was the decisive factor!
I had 61 ft/lbs written down as the torque on the caliper bolts. I guess I'll run down the Snap-On guy and get the 10 mm hex.
Check the rotors. The minimum width should be stamped on the rotor hat. I'm thinking it's 28mm but that's for the GT3 rotor which is probably thicker than the stock one. If so, it sounds like your rotors are good for several more track events. Just keep an eye on the cracks. If they start connecting the holes or getting out toward the outer edge of the rotor, it's time to swap them.
You can order Snap On tools from their web site. It's usually easier than trying to flag down a truck.
Karl
I have their catalog, but a Snap-On guy lives right around the corner from me.
I guess if you get a good route you can do pretty well schlepping tools!
