Please Help with Two Problems: Clicking Sound from Engine; Suckng Sound from Dash

Hello All, Picked up a CPO'd 2004 C4S Cab recently. It had a series of problems (like mis-matched rear tires) that the P-dealer fixed with no questions asked. One initial problem that they did not fix manifests itself in a sucking sound that eminates from the center stack of the dash. It sounds as if there is a vacuum leak and as if there is air being sucked into fluid. (Sorry for the poor description.) It happens more frequently as the car is warming up--this morning, the noise repeated itself 6 times in first 3 miles. After the car reaches operating temp, it may occur once every few minutes. It's worth noting that yesterday, I went for a drive with the service manager and, of course, we could not replicate the noise. Any ideas? Also, the left side of my motor now makes a distinct "clicking" sound. Back when I would work on my cars myself (when a normal person still could) I would have identified this as a bad lifter. The strange thing about this noise is that it is not present during cold starts (which, in my limited experience, would be the optimal time for a bad lifter to act up). However, once warm, the noise comes and goes. It is really distracting. The service manager suggested a few possibilities (air in the oil lines) and blamed it on my driving the car only on weekends. To me, it sounded like he was either out of ideas, or just didn't want to investigate. Since I bought this CPO'd car from them only a couple of months ago, should I just insist that they take care of these issues? Thanks in advance for helping.

They had mis-matched tires on a CPO'd car? WTF! Regardless, the good news is it is CPO'd and they will take care of EVERYTHING. You just need to take it in.

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Sorry Dell. What's the meaning of "WTF" ? Thanks

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Hey Dell, I'll handle this one for you! WTF = What The F*cK? Joaquin, I think that translates easily into Spanish, too!

The sucking sound is the plummeting value of your C4S in todays market. I know, I have one.

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Thanks Tim I undertand now

Thanks guys, but I really could use some advice. Should I just leave the car with the dealer and say "fix it"? Also, when the service manager says that the clicking sound may be from my driving the car weekends only, it makes my blood boil. It seems to me that once a lifter pumps up, it should stay that way. Plus, again, the sound is not present at cold start. Any ideas out there?

Thanks guys, but I really could use some advice. Should I just leave the car with the dealer and say "fix it"? Also, when the service manager says that the clicking sound may be from my driving the car weekends only, it makes my blood boil. It seems to me that once a lifter pumps up, it should stay that way. Plus, again, the sound is not present at cold start. Any ideas out there?

Thanks guys, but I really could use some advice.

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Geez, you could say that again....and again...and again...... BTW, you have been given advice. Take it back to the dealer and have them make your CPO car right. Not sure what advice you are looking for other than that.

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really brings into question the comleteness of the CPO process. Anyhow, the sucking sound err sounds like the vacuum motor that controls the various heater/AC air flow control flaps is going bad, or has gone bad, or one of the vacuum lines/connections is loose or damaged, pinched maybe, or... As for the ticking, generally ticking starts from cold and usually goes away when engine warms a bit. Given the CPO process managed to overlook mismatched rear tires, then I have to ask is the oil level correct? Is the engine filled with proper oil? What about the oil filter? The wrong filter could interfere with oil flow and various areas of the engine will tick as they receive less sufficient oil as the warming engine warms the oil and oil pressure drops. At the same time becuase the oil is warmer the engine's oil needs increase as the warmer oil is better able to escape from teh various oil bearing interfaces. I'm assuming the ticking noise is not accompanied by aniy engine misbehavior, cold, warm or hot? No hard starting, rough or unsteady or erratic idle speed? If the dealer wants to, it can bring the car into the shop, with the ticking noise present, and then with a diagnostics computer shut off gas or spark to each cylinder in turn with the engine at idle. If the noise changes, goes way, with one particular cylinder this at least pinpoints the cylinder. If the engine RPM at idle doesn't drop as much when one cylinder is essentially disabled this idicates the noise is coming from a weak cylinder. One that had you known existed and didn't suspect *because* of the CPO label you would not have bought the car. What you are left with is the dealer was supposed to deliver you a CPO car that is touted as being problem and defect free. (You have to read the fine print. I've never had a CPO car.) Throw in a polite way the dealer's and Porsche CPO advertising for CPO back at the dealer. The car has developed not one but two problems that and stress this a bit that have severely dampened your enjoyment of the car. Because you don't know what's wrong and the dealer doesn't either you can be sure the symptoms are not early warnings of much more serious problems, that when they occur could affect your safety and that of any passengers. Thus you have lost enjoyment of the car from this concern. You bought the car from a dealer, CPO'd. The dealer owes you reasonable skill and experience and care in servicing your vehicle. If it can't deliver this then you could suggest this is a bit like consumer fraud. You were misled in your purchase of the car by the fact the dealer claimed expertise with this line of cars but has yet to show it has that expertise. Stress to some level that the dealer's assurances it had an outstanding service department played a major role in your purchase decision. Be sure all your concerns are noted on work paperwork and you get and keep copies. Be sure all car and personal info is correct, VIN, mileage, etc. At worst you want to build a paper trail that should something go seriously wrong later on you broght this to the attention of the dealer much earlier. Take the car back. Be prepared to leave it. Be prepared when you're told they all do that to ask another car be started and the dash and ticking noises duplicated. If you get any push back, insist to speak to the service manager. If the service manager balks, then up the anty and speak with the general manager. When you go to pick up car, thoroughly and dare I say more so that when you bought the car check out the car completely. Check not only for the absense of the noises you took car in for but for correct operation of at least the heater, AC system. Check that where the car's park shows no signs of recent fluid leakage and when you take car for test drive park it some place where you note the driveway is clear. After spending some time stalling -- use the bathroom -- go back to car and check if any fluids show up under car. Check of course vital fluid levels before you leave the 1st test drive time and before you leave again. Sincerely, Macster.

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remove the oil filter housing -- to not only check the correct filter is in place but installed properly -- offer to pay for the new filter and labor if it proves to be ok -- but to have a sample of the oil to send out for analysis to check if metal debris (too fine to really see) is in the oil. (Bring a clean plastic sealable container suitable for sending in oil for analysis. Check with a nearby oil analysis site. I have used a truck stop that specializes in oil changes for big rigs that had an on-site oil analysis machine. Or you can send the oil to a distant site.) Suggest the intermittent engine noise could be an IMS (intermediate shaft) about to go bad. Sinclerely, Macster.

Advice? I'll 2nd what's already been mentioned. Its CPO'd. Why would you do anything but take it to the dealer?

Only one word to add............. NEWBIES!!!! Just kidding around and having some fun!

Thanks everyone. I'll keep you up to date as this is, hopefully, resolved.

Im with Dell on this... hammer the stealership! do not take no for an answer, make them (try to) fix anything you think is wrong so that it will be on record...play hardball and let them know you are serious! GL.

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Red, Don't you just HATE it when you have to agree with Dell? I know I certainly do! Hi Dell!

Hi Timmy

Recognizing I am late to the party on this discussion, I too have a sound that is not present during a cold start, but comes on as the engine warms up. Doesn't seem to affect performance but would appreciate knowing if you successfully eliminated the ticking and how?

Ticking sound only on the C4, not the GT3

agena you should probaly start your own post with a full descirption of what your experienceing