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YOUR RESEARCHCar won't Start - H E L P!
Reported or suspected cause
fuse
Reported cause
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Reported cause
I read another thread last week with similar symptoms and it turned out to be a bad fuse.
Leading evidence: 'fuse' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'fuse' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check connections, spark and fuel' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check crank position sensor and it has 150mv while cranking
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Checked the crank position sensor and it has 150mv while cranking
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Fuel is good I put fresh in and the Injectors were cleaned/tested.
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Suspected cause
One engine rebuilder had an engine that would not start and it proved to be an incorrectly installed crankshaft position sensor that was hitting the flywheel tabs.
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OK, i give! I just finished a complete rebuild after an IMS failure. The rebuild went great, all new parts IMS,, Bearings, rings, valve job, wear pads, the whole 9 yards. I got the engine back in and topped all the fluids. Connected the battery, blink, blink, click, all the windows go down
. I thought that was a little unusual but OK. Hit the key, starter rolls the engine over and nothing fires up
. Checked all the connections, spark and fuel. No fuel flow. Checked the fuel pump by bridging the relay and it runs OK. Checked the relay and it is OK. Tried to start it wit the relay bridged but no go. Checked the crank position sensor and it has 150mv while cranking
.
What is left? How do I check the DME? What are the symptoms of the immobilizer kicking in? Any and all help is appreciated.
1999 996 C2 3.4L with a ZERO miles engine...
I'm not a mechanic, but since no one has chimed in yet - Have you checked all of the fuses? I read another thread last week with similar symptoms and it turned out to be a bad fuse.
Sure did. That is one of the first things that I checked. With all the wiring connections it is not that hard to pinch a wire and blow a fuse. The DME is what I do not know how to check. Well, that and the Imobilizer.
I don't think the security system is at fault. If it was bad I don't think the engine could crank.
No reason to suspect the DME either unless you zapped it with static electricity while working on the car, but I think this unlikely.
What about the battery's condition? Maybe it has a bad cell, or is down on charge?
One engine rebuilder had an engine that would not start and it proved to be an incorrectly installed crankshaft position sensor that was hitting the flywheel tabs.
How long was the car idle while you rebuilt the engine? Any chance the fuel filter, lines, or rails or the fuel injectors have become blocked from gunked up old fuel?
Are the fuel injectors connected to the wiring harness? Coils?
Is the fuel line connected properly? Fuel filter installed properly?
Do you have fuel flow and pressure at the fuel rails test points?
Sincerely,
Macster.
Fully charged battery. I removed the position sensor and visually inspected it. If I jumper the fuel pump relay i get flow. The relay is not getting a signal from the DME to start.
If the immobilizer is activated will the engine turn over at all?
Fuel, air, ignition.
Is the fuel old, right amount getting to cylinders? Check a plug for being wet after some time cranking with no start. Smell for fuel.
Cabling to butterfly valve right opening correctly with sensors if any playing along in the game.
You can double check fuel and correct breathing pulling a plug after cranking to see if its wet. Then with all the plugs out hand cranking engine you can keep track of stroke of cylinders and check TDC's and if intake is at proper time.
A common oops is firing order being unfamiliar with models sequincing of numbers and which leads off cap is for which plug.
Fuel injectors can gum up pretty bad. Maybe if the car does start running but rough try injector cleaner. I don't recall you mentioning how long the car sat but I figure any length near 6 months is definate bad fuel and gummy injectors or dried hard injectors.
Sensor test was in place and static. Both indicated a good sensor. Fuel is good I put fresh in and the Injectors were cleaned/tested. Firing order is correct.
What relay is not getting a signal from the DME to start?
If the security system fails to get a response to its RF signal to the key's RFID pill or if the response is not recognized/found in the security sysytem's look up table, my experience is the engine will not even crank. The dash lights come on, and everything looks ok, but turn the key to the engine start position and nada, zilch, zip.
If the car is equipped with a manual transmission and if the clutch is not fully depressed or if the clutch interlock switch is bad the engine will not crank either. And my WAG is likewise if the Tip is not in park (or neutral?) and the brake pedal is not depressed? the engine will not crank.
So, the engine cranks which I guess eliminates the above areas of concern.
The next question is is the engine getting fuel? A test of fuel flow before the injectors is only partially valid. The engine controller must trigger an injector pulse to spray fuel into the cylinder.
The fuel system can be working perfectly but if the engine controller doesn't trigger those pulses... forget it. The engine will crank until the battery dies or the starter motor melts but it will not start and run.
If the engine cranks and yet you do not smell gas at the exhaust then I would have to say the engine controller is not triggering fuel injector pulses. But the question is why?
Let me give this some more thought...
Sincerely,
Macster.
No more calls, we have a WINNER!! "dc drechsel" on the PelicanParts forums nailed the problem. If the Air Bag system detects a deployment, the DME shuts off the fuel flow and drops the windows. Pretty darn smart car. Except when the drivers air bag and steering wheel are in the passenger seat. This makes the AB system think that the AB has deployed. I put the AB back in, reset the DME, hit the key and, voila! There just is nothing like the sound of 300HP in a flat engine. WOW! This is awesome...
Thanks for all the help. You just have to love a bunch of PCar guys and gals helping each other.
Yea, sorry about that. I really did not think that it mattered. I suppose that is what I get for thinking. Technically, it was "in". It was in the passenger seat..
