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Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

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YOUR RESEARCHTransmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

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Check rms and ims and they both looked fine

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

He also checked the RMS and IMS and they both looked fine with no sign of leaks.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?
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Leading evidence: 'Check rms and ims and they both looked fine' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check rms and ims and they both looked fine' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Replace oil and filter of

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The only thing that irks me is I replaced the oil and filter of which the shop had to change it again with only 40 miles on the clock!

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace when car was 22,300miles, currently at 30,600miles)

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

Then took a look at the clutch (from PO service records, RMS and clutch was replaced when car was 22,300miles, currently at 30,600miles).

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Use swears by royal purple motor oil

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

The Indy shop that I use swears by Royal Purple motor oil.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Inspect ims bearing i now have some piece of mind

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Suggestion

After inspecting the IMS bearing I now have some piece of mind.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?
Frequently discussed actions (10)

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Check rms and ims and they both looked fine

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

He also checked the RMS and IMS and they both looked fine with no sign of leaks.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Inspect ims bearing i now have some piece of mind

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Suggestion

After inspecting the IMS bearing I now have some piece of mind.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Recommend doing this if you want piece of mind

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Suggestion

I would recommend doing this if you want piece of mind for your M96 engine.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Repair manuel

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Suggestion

For further detail and pictures, please see chapter 19, exhibit 243 in the Repair Manuel.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace 'em

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Suggestion

Change 'em!

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace cartridge filter

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Suggestion

L&N has a filter mod that replaces the cartridge filter with a "spin-on full flow" filter.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace clutch and a few bearings in the transmission

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Suggestion · Original poster

After a review the mechanic has advised replacing the clutch and a few bearings in the transmission.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace clutch now as well though since opened

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Suggestion

Recommends I change the clutch now as well though since opened.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace cycle had you been

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Suggestion

What oil change cycle had you been using?

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?

Replace every 7,500 miles

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Suggestion

He recommended to me that if I'm going to put 20,000 miles on the car annually, that I could get my oil changed every 7,500 miles.

Transmission is out. Should i replace the RMS and IMS?
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32 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I just got a '99 996. It only has 47K miles. Took it in because the clutch was making a noise. After a review the mechanic has advised replacing the clutch and a few bearings in the transmission. He also checked the RMS and IMS and they both looked fine with no sign of leaks. My question is should i follow the 'if it isn't broke don't fix it' approach or should i be proactive and replace them both since the transmission is out anyway?

POST 2Original post

Many on this forum would tell you to do the seals and the IMS bearing, , while the labor charges have already been charged for the clutch job.Not sure what I would do, your Porsche has 5k miles less than mine, but my clutch seems fine. Neither my RMS or IMS are leaking so far.

POST 3Original post

FYI, the IMS doesn't "leak" - at least not on the outside... I suppose you could make an argument that oil leaks past the bearing seals and into the shaft. Personally, if i was "in there anyway" I'd change them.

POST 7Original post

Change 'em! You have already incurred most of the costs by pulling the tranny...

POST 9Original post

Quotes source post: 8025398

Hell - RESALE?? It will help with your peace of mind!!! That alone is worth the price of admission. larry

POST 10Original post

yeah... tough choice, but I would bite the bullet and get it over with.

POST 11Original post

Just DO IT! You won't have regrets of "I should of..." later. And the piece of mind, especially with such a low mileage car.

POST 12Original post

Get a quote first. They might charge you for the rsm and ims work seperately.

POST 14Original post

Quotes source post: 8029604

Yes, grasshopper, the Illogical Motion Sensor can sometimes move in the wrong direction. This is the result of the Force being misapplied by the members of the driver's team. Should that happen, a contusion can form in the outer part of the sensor. The sensor, knowing that this is an illegal motion, will stop the engine from turning by throwing out little ***** of steel. This prevents the illegal motion from continuing, preventing the issuance of a ticket by the local PD (porsche detective). As we know, no one wants a ticket!!! Your best solution is to replace the Illogical Motion Sensor with one that doesn't recognize the direction of rotation. In that case, there will be no misapplication of the Force, and the steel ***** remain inside the sensor, thereby preventing any illegal motion, and unexpected shutdown of the engine. I hope that this clarifies the situation. For further detail and pictures, please see chapter 19, exhibit 243 in the Repair Manuel. larry

POST 15Original post

With the IMS you must have the approach of "if it isn't broken it will be". Those who wait are playing russian roulette with all 6 cylinders of their engine. If you are that close and don't do the procedure think about how much you'll hate it if you do have a failure.

POST 16Original post

Man.... I still feel a big conflict of interest when seeing these threads and posts in them. Maybe its just me.....

POST 17Original post

Quotes source post: 8029812

My thoughts exactly. But if he is that far into it, it's "in for a penny, in for a pound".

POST 18Original post

Quotes source post: 8029721

As Jake states.... You are there do it!

POST 19Original post

I get very nervous when people tell me that I have to spend $1,500 on a preventative measure. If I have not opened the engine, I don't think that I would do it as a protection against "what if?" In your case, you already have the engine and tranny apart. You have already spent the money to get to the heart of the matter. I would spend the extra money for the LN bearing and have it replaced. At this point, I think that it's cheap insurance. larry

POST 20Original post

Quotes source post: 8024664

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your post, but mine definitely did. The 'leak' didn't make it outside and on to the garage floor, but the seal definitely failed. This is a pic of what they found when they dropped my motor to install the bearing upgrade.

POST 21Original post

Quotes source post: 8029918

Yes true, I do want to point out that I am one whose in the IMS retrofit club, but still feel uneasy with the way some of these threads go. Oh well, that's all I got to say about that....

POST 22Original post

It will help resale? Possibly if the prospective buyer trolls the internet forums, If not and you explain, your buyer won't walk away, he'll run! lol

POST 23Original post

I 'm not sure where to post this, so this thread seems as good a place as any. I just had my 30,000 service done on my 2004 996 Targa. The Indy shop that I use swears by Royal Purple motor oil. He uses 15W40 when he changes the oil. He said that he has only had one customer that has experienced problems as a result of the IMS failure. He said that this customer didn't change his oil very often. He recommended to me that if I'm going to put 20,000 miles on the car annually, that I could get my oil changed every 7,500 miles. He told me that he doesn't know why he has so many fewer failures than is generally reported. The failure of the IMS has been reported to be related to a build-up of acidity in the oil as a result of infrequent oil changes, or stop and go driving, or low mileage, or . . . . . . . . He feels that there is a chance that Royal Purple oil is so much slipperier than other oils that it helps keep the IMS healthy, thereby postponing or eliminating any potential problems. OK, the evidence is anecdotal. I don't know if it really helps or not. But his experience with the lack of IMS failures on the part of his customers could have some correlation to the type of oil that he uses. I don't know for sure, but at $8.50 a quart, I'm willing to spend the money on fancy oil rather than break down the engine for a preventative operation. larry

POST 24Original post

Quotes source post: 8024664

Or you can make an argument it does leak on the outside...

POST 25Original post

I did an oil change 2 weekends ago, opened up the oil filter and sure enough there were metal filings in the filter. The car only has 44K on the clock. So off I go to a Porsche specialty shop, had the RMS, the clutch and IMS bearing replaced. Even thought the RMS was not leaking, and the clutch was still in pretty good shape it made no sense not replace while the trans was off. Sure enough after pulling the IMS bearing, the bearing was a little loose, and had metal filings on the back side. The shop also pulled the pan and purged the engine of the metal filings not captured by the filter. After inspecting the IMS bearing I now have some piece of mind. There were no tell tale signs other than looking for the metal in the oil filter. The only thing that irks me is I replaced the oil and filter of which the shop had to change it again with only 40 miles on the clock! The replacement bearing was a double row bearing from L&N for $596 plus shipping. Shop also stated they have never had a failure with the L&N bearing.

POST 26Original post

Hey Kevinmacd, send us some pics of your Porsche so we know what puts a smile on your face.

POST 27Original post

Quotes source post: 8077159

Kevin, Well, I'd say that you were lucky that you examined the filter when you did. I wonder how many miles you had left till the ultimate implosion. It is interesting that you examined the filter. L&N has a filter mod that replaces the cartridge filter with a "spin-on full flow" filter. My wrench said that's OK, but then you lose the ability to unroll the cartridge and examine it for shavings. He does that as a matter of course. I was thinking of doing the L&N Full Filter mod, and they recommend using their magnetic drain plug, which will collect some of the debris - if there is any. But, I'll guess that your experience proves that you don't need a high mileage car to run into IMS problems. What oil change cycle had you been using? What year is your 996? Of all the miserable IMS failure stories, it was good to hear of a successful one - where prudent evaluation saved your engine. From that point of view, I would be less concerned about flushing "new" oil down the drain. larry

POST 28Original post

No different than updating the chain tensioners on an air cooled 911. Do it!

POST 29Original post

As soon as I got my 3.6 996 this summer, I immediately took it to Callas Rennsport in Torrance, where I had them change the oil, perform the LN Engineering intermediate shaft upgrade, and replace the rear main seal. The car was not leaking oil prior to this or giving me any problems. I did it as preventative maintenance. I would recommend doing this if you want piece of mind for your M96 engine.

POST 30Original post

2000 996, was very well aware of the IMS bearing situation, hence the reason for keeping the cartridge filter. I change oil & filter every 4500 miles.

POST 31Original post

I am in a similar situation as I was preparing for an oil change, notice a little oil, no drips on the ground and mechanic though RMS. Took it apart and it looked exactly like BruceP's. The RMS was alright. Then took a look at the clutch (from PO service records, RMS and clutch was replaced when car was 22,300miles, currently at 30,600miles). It appears the clutch was not replaced as per service records. Recommends I change the clutch now as well though since opened. Question.. Should I replace the IMS seal with the seal from Pelican/Porsche or go for the LN IMS? The clutch and flywheel, any recommendations? An oil change is changing for the worse

POST 32Original post

I would replace the IMS bearing with the retro kit from L&N, and the RMS too. Do it once and then enjoy the ride. Mine only had 44K on the clock, and the bearing was removed due to my finding metal in the filter. The bearing once pulled was loose and had shavings on the back side. Not failing yet but on it's way. The clutch and RMS were fine, but had both replaced!

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