MKII Exhaust Mod Help

Hi all, I just picked up a pair of the 3.6L mufflers in an attempt to do the MKII hack on my 99 cab. Problem is I'm a worthless attempt at an auto mechanic. So if there is anyone out there in the Houston, TX area who has done the mod and help point me in the right direction or to a shop that can help me with this project, it would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Any muffler shop with could fabricate them.

As Cory (Tippy) said, any muffler shop can do this. I had the local Meineke shop do it and they charged me $60 for an "off the books" job. No invoice, no bill, no record, which was OK with me. I simply showed the guy this pic and he did the rest.

Thanks for the info guys, I'm going to try to take them in this week for the modification. Hopefully I'll have them on by this weekend!

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If you need any info about swapping them out, let us know. I can supply you with a PET diagram that may help and also offer a few tips that could assist with swapping the tips from the old to the new mufflers.

Hey Tim, Any tips or diagrams you can send me would be awesome since I'm not mechanically inclined at all. My email is [email removed] Thanks a bunch Linh

Linh, You will have to jack up the rear or the car and slide some jack stands under the rear lifting points on each side of the car. While some guys have left the rear wheels on the car, I removed them to make it easier to drop the mufflers. There are only 5 bolts/nuts per muffler you have to remove to get them off of the car. I have attached the PET exhaust diagram and have highlighted the connections you will have to loosen or remove. Removing the old mufflers 1. Loosen the two nuts on the clamp (#29) that connects the muffler to the cat and slide the clamp onto the cat. 2. Then remove the three nuts (#16 circled) from the bolts on the muffler bracket (#28). 3. Once those are loose, you can push the muffler toward the fender and rotate it toward the rear wheel to get it out of the cavity. 4. Remove bolts (#24 & #25) to get the bracket off of the muffler. You will need to transfer the bracket to the new mufflers if they did not come with brackets. 5. Before you remove the exhaust tips, pay special attention to how the tips align on the muffler . The pipe on the tips has a dimple in it, which allows the pipe to clear the pipe coming from the cats. You will need to match this positioning of the tips when you put them on the new mufflers. 6. Loosen and remove the bolt from the exhaust tip clamp (#22). See immediately below for instructions on how to remove the exhaust tip clamp. Removing the Tips - I think the toughest part of the whole job was removing/replacing the muffler tip clamp (#22). It is a concave "C" clamp which must be spread apart to get over the flared end of the muffler pipe ( as shown in the 1st pic below ). If you have some Snap Ring Pliers ( see 2nd and 3rd pics which are courtesy of bernocco930S ) they will be easy to remove. If you do not have Snap Ring Pliers, (which I don't) I found the easiest way to "open" the clamp was to insert two screwdrivers into the bolt holes on the clamp ends ( 4th pic ) then push the screwdriver handles toward each other to "open" the clamp. Be sure you don't push too hard, or you may distort the bolt holes of the clamp. Installing the new mufflers. 1. Pre install the muffler tips on the new mufflers, but DO NOT tighten the clamps completely, because you will have to adjust the alignment of the tips once the new mufflers are installed. 2. Install the bracket (#28) on the new mufflers, but reverse the direction of the bracket bolts. Instead of inserting them from the top (like in the diagram) insert them from the bottom. This way if you ever need to remove the mufflers again, you can remove these two bolts (#24 & #25) to get the muffler off. 3. Position the new muffler in the cavity and slide the 3 bracket bolts back into the holes. 4. Place one nut on one of the bolts. Keep this loose so you can complete the next step. 5. Align the muffler pipe and the cat pipe and slide the clamp on the muffler pipe and snug up the nuts slightly (do not tighten completely at this time). 6. Tighten all 3 nuts on the bracket. 7. Tighten the muffler/cat clamp. 8. Adjust the muffler tips to the correct alignment and tighten the clamp. Repeat the process for the other muffler. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Wow, very nice Tim! Copy/pasted to my 911 folder for future reference. Not sure if I will go aftermarket or try MKI. I will probably try the hack first (not much to loose). Regardless of direction taken the info posted is primo

Very nice post Tim!

If you need another set of instructions for the muffler/mod.....check this out: LINK HERE

Good post Tim....even I have to admit it....and it hurts. Great pics of the band clamp along with the how-to. That clamp can take up more time than the whole project if you don't have the knack. Yep....I gotsta' admit....good post. You didn't even grouse about anything. I think you're getting mellow.

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Thanks guys! Yeah, Chuck I guess I am getting mellow in my old age. Unfortunately, there was nothing to grouse about. How is the TT treating you? Any new mods planned? I am sure I could help you spend some of your mod money!

Tim: Just got a set of EVOM performance headers and ordered the installation hardware from Sunset...it arrived today so I'll tackle that in a few days. I'm waiting for the CPO to die in Sept. before I decide upon a tuner for a flash. UMW keeps coming up. After a flash (no more than 550 max) that's it for me.

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Flash for 550 HP.... cool! I predict that about 15 months from now, your stage 1 Europipe goes on the block so you can get a set of stage 2 pipe to handle the additional 100+ HP. BTW, I never did ask you, how does "Mrs. Chuck" like the TT?

She won't ride in either the 930S or the TT....she prefers her Toyota Forerunner. Her ex involved her in a serious roll-over that hurt her badly, involved some facial reconstruction...so she's extremely nervous and paranoid about any speed, and especially mountain roads. Consequently, 55 mph in a TT doesn't seem very rewarding...at least not to me. I'm mostly solo.

I went to Meineke and another indy muffler place where I live and both said they did not have the equipment to cut the hole on the muffler body. Did you guys run into this problem at all? What tool would you need to cut that hole?

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Chuck, even though apparently it occured a while back, I'm sorry to hear about your wife's accident. I can see why she would be very uncomfortable about going fast.

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I would think that a lot of them would use a tourch to cut the hole. If the were to bend and fit the new pipe prior to doing any cutting they could trace the outline of the new pipe and "cut on the dotted line." I am pretty sure that the the guy who did my muffler mod had never dont this before, because when I picked up the modded mufflers he asked me what type of car they went on. You might wanr to PM FisterD (his first name is Darin) and ask him what he uses to cut the hole in the pipe. He has done this mod for 3 or 4 guys here.

You should be asking FisterD.....when he did mine, he started out with a circular hole cutter, then used a Dremel rasp to elongate the hole to make it match up with the eliptical fitting that the curved pipe needed to match. He was careful not to leave much of a lip so that you don't end up with a restriction on the inside of the pipe. If you do a search for "Modding the 3.6L muffler for a MKII design" you'll see the entire process explained with pictures.

You can't cut the hole with a torch, unless it is a plasma cutter. I begin with a cutting wheel on a bench grinder, then switch to a grinding stone to oval the hole. Finishing with a die grinder with a small round double cut bur. I think one of the keys to doing this mod properly, is making the holes to fit the tubing. I have a new version that is more aggressive and louder than this mod. I will post a video, soon!

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Darin, can't wait to here and see that video. It would also be great to see what hte "new version" looks like on the mufflers.

I can't wait either! I want to know more about the more aggessive option also. I need to get a set of 3.6L cans!

Thanks guys, I found a shop that could do the mod, charged me $100. But then they wanted to charge another $160 to install them so I'm gonna do that part myself. I'll post a video once I get these suckers on.

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CHuck, I hate to be the one to tell you this (well, that's not TOTALLY true... ) but I think your "grey matter" is failing you. I did a detailed write up in post #7 of this thread , and in a weak moment, you even complimented me on it. You must have beeen having a "senior moment" when that happened.

HUH??? Who me??? Where's the delete key? I have no idea what you're talking about....what post? Now you see it....now you don't. Darin: I'm looking forward to the pics and sound clips of what you said was "a more aggressive and louder mod".....what did you end up doing to make it louder? Actually, the original MKII mod you did was just right for me because it didnt' drone at all and barked just right....but maybe some of the other guys wanted it louder??.