Air bag removal issues - VERY frustrating - please help!

I've got an inoperable horn that I think may be the bushing and the ring that holds the air bag in place. I ordered the part and it arrived. I found the various DIY on the forums and got my T30 torx ready. Alas, the bit adapter was too fat, and the torx bit too short to get to the screw, so I had to order a torx screwdriver. Darn! It was too long, so I ordered the goldie locks bit length of 3 1/2 inches and it is just right. Anyway, one of the screws came loose right away. Yes, the loctite was in place, but it turned with a little effort and it was no problem. However, the screw on the other side is not being as cooperative. The bit can't seem to find purchase on the screw head. It feels like it is in there, but it doesn't offer strong resistance. Further turning of the bit doesn't reveal any loosening of the air bag unit on that side. Through the bit adapter and ratchet, it is hard to "feel" if anything is slipping inside and stripping. The bit comes out clean, so it doesn't appear that the head is being stripped. Again, I'm not 100% sure that the bit is even landing on the head. I put a 4mm hex in there for giggles, and it seems to bite on something, and offers pretty decent resistance, but I'm afraid to push to hard, for fear of stripping the t30 head, or the fact that it may not even be biting on the screw head anyway. Any other advice here? Anyone with a lot of experience up for a challenge? I can bring the car to you (I'm in Northern California). This is so frustrating. What should be a 30 minute job is going on and on. As a last piece, IF the screw head is stripped, what are my options? I can't even see in the bugger to evaluate. Thanks for your help! PS-It should be noted that this is the 4 spoke wheel, not 3 spoke, if that matters.

Quotes source post: 9481980

Did you try putting a mirror behind and trying to see it this way? or taking telephone camera and filing the screw? I am 2 steps behind you, the screwdriver I have won't turn the screw so I have to order a ratchet set, I was going to get the extra long 6" one but I guess they don't fit, so will go with the shorter one.

I have done this a few times in my old 996. The first time was tough. Make sure it is biting and then use something with more leverage while pushing against the torex screw. I used my largest vice grips and it was tough to break. L shaped Torx was my ticket and always access from below the steering column.

Maybe someone has tried in vain to fix this horn issue in the past & stripped the oem screw & replaced with a different size & that's why the other side was loose? Maybe you can see what you are after with a mirror & light? Possibly a few yoga classes?

Yeah, I thought about the fact that someone else may have been there before me. If so, it was likely the dealer, as it appears that the previous owners had the local dealer do all work, including stuff I'd consider pretty easy DIY. The one that was loose was definitely not loose, pre se, but the bit locked in and with a bit of force, the lactate gave way. Anyway, I'll try the yoga moves and see what I can see. Thanks everyone. Here's the bit I'm using. Seems pretty solid. 3 1/2 inches. Part #3EKE4 from Grainger.

This is getting frustrating. I'm taking another break and will go at it again soon. I'm starting to think it is stripped. Which sucks. A lot. Anyway, a little more trying then, I have to start thinking about alternate means of getting the thing off. Again, any help is not going to be turned away!

Will it tighten? I have had luck in the past tighting it a little to break screw free too. Flashlight and a mirror might help you to be able to see the head too.

Definitely get a mirror to get a visual on what condition the head of the screw is in. I've had to do this before when removing air bags.

Won't tighten, and I'm afraid to do any more damage. I'm assuming it is stripped. I've tried looking at it via a mirror, but I can't tell if what I'm looking at is stripped IN the torx star, or on top of the screw head. Make sense? Anyway, feels stripped. Should I keep at it, or seek a pro?

Can you tap the bit when it is on the (or what is left of) screw head. If you tap long enough the bit may make an impression deep enough to get enough grip on the screw for a stronger more secure turn. Tapping and turning at the same time may work. Kind of like the impact screw driver effect. Good luck..

I gave up. I put the good screw back in and re-connected the battery and just got on with driving it. Don't know where to go from here. If anyone knows a decent indy in NorCal that would be willing to take this on, please let me know. Thanks for everyone's help, I just tired of fighting it, and didn't want to do more damage.

You could also just use a broken screw extractor,

keytohwy. I just came in from the garage trying to solve the very problem you are having. I can tell you once those screws are stripped, theres almost nothing you can do to remove them. (almost) It doesnt help that they are Loc-tited in. Heres what I did. Its not pretty, but its the only choice. Just in front of the hole where you stick the Torx bit, slice open the side of the steering wheel housing. Its soft rubber. You will need to cut it open enough to get a small pair of Vise grips in there. I cut mine open and then grabbed the outer diameter of the bolt and loosened it that way. Make sure you are using a VERY good pair of vise grips. No Harbor Freight tool for this job. Get it on the bolt real tight then break it loose. It took me a few tries. The loctite holds it pretty tight. Once I reassembled it, you hardly notice the razor cuts I superglued them from the inside also. Any Porsche or Indy will have to do the same thing. The only other way is if you could get some type of tool that would grab the outside diameter of the screw through the hole. Hardly any room for that though. Hope this helps you or makes up your mind to just leave it alone. Mike

Thanks, Mike. I've still not resolved the issue, but it isn't a daily driver, so it hasn't been crucial. But still, I'd like to fix it. I'll keep your fix in mind when I get serious about it. Someone else recommended an impact wrench to free it up. I don't have one, so that option is a bit of a long(er) shot for me. Thanks again for the note!

Quotes source post: 10267914

How about lowering the column and drilling the screw heads off?

I went through this pia a couple weeks ago replacing my column switch. One t30 was a breeze and the other was f'd. So, grabbed a t27 and a hammer. Pounded it in there and viola...worked! But man that was frustrating at first when the t30 wasnt working on the one side.

You could try drilling it. Just not a lot of room to work. You will probably need a right angle drill. Then you hvae the problem of removing the remaing bolt from the back of the air bag. Part of the problem is the torx socket is fairly shallow. I replaced mine with allen head socket screws. Mike

Yes they are tight as hell from the factory. Ran into the same issue. Maybe I got lucky.. But I went to sears got the right tools and leaned on them and they all came free. Good Luck