Oil change

I got bored..decided it's time for an oil change. How can anyone charge $250 for this job.. Gettin Ready, Supplies! Jacked up! Woops, Dirty vs. Clean Pictures from before

Bravo! How long did it take?

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About 2 hours. 1 hour was spent on running to an auto part store to buy a socket allen wrench set. I couldn't loosen the drain plug with a simple allen wrench.

I spilt more oil my first time the drain plug fell down and completely blocked the tubs drain.Since the oil was hot I couldn't get it out of there with my fingers so it overflowed quickly. Made sure next time not to let the drain plug fall into the drainage collector.

yeah, Oil was coming out of the drain faster than it was draining in the pail. So I had to put the drain plug back to slow down the flow. Fortunately, the drain plug was still attached to my socket wrench so I didn't burn myself.

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Please note that little yellow colored snap cap on top of the drain pan. It is at an air vent that when the cap is removed lets air out as the incoming oil pours into the drain pan's basin. My experience is that while the oil flows from the engine very quickly -- and I always change the oil with the engine hot cause I do the oil change at work and have to drive there and do not want to spend hours waiting for the engine and oil too cool some -- the drain will accept it *provided* that vent cap is off. And letting the drain plug fall into the pan will almost certainly have the plug well plug up the hole into the basin and some oil, maybe a lot will run over the top of the drain pan. I carefully remove the drain plug and have rubber mech's. gloves on both hands so if I have to I can reach into the hot oil to retrieve a fallen plug. Even with gloves though the oil's usually too hot to do much fishing for a drain plug. Oh, just be thankful you don't have a Turbo. The oil tank drain is quite a ways up in the air and the oil rushing out splashes considerably and it falls into the drain pan. Next oil change I will seek a way to raise the drain pan up so the oil has less distance to fall. But the platform much keep the oil drain pan level and it must be stable so it doesn't tip or fall with 8+ quarts oil in a drain pan on it. Sincerely, Macster.

A straight up oil change is definitely a DIY to save plenty of $. But when I got my oil changed yesterday, it was on the same day the mechanic was going to check the undercarriage, belts, change the fuel filter, air filter, attach a engine skid plate, check brake condition, show me the work involved in dropping the trans to get the IMS, RMS done, DME check up and a bunch of other Porsche knowledge...etc. ...I paid for 3 hours on the lift since I brought all the goods to him. money well spent... and no mess in my driveway or garage.

Rxjohn, good job! If you change the oil in warmer weather, you can skip the jack stands part. Simply back you car part of the way out of the garage stopping when the rear wheels are still in the garage. The engine will overhang the driveway which, in most houses, is sloped away from the garage. This will give you an extra inch or two to work with. Also, I use the 10 quart oil pan shown below. The large yellow top screws off, which exposes an open grill on the top, which allows the oil to flow into the pan easily.

I've had similar issues dropping the drain plug into the pan. What I do, is use a long extension with a magnet on the top of it. I have that with me when I loosen the drain plug, so when it falls into the pan, i fish it out with the magnet/extension. Safer, easier, and quicker.

Bravo As others have said, hold onto the plug AND dont forget to OPEN the drain in the catch pan ! DOH! Nice pics and good job

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Not sure that works. I thought the same too, but it didn't work. I don't know if someone changed my plug or it was the stock one, but my gooseneck magnet couldn't pick it up, so I concluded it was aluminum (no problem grabbing the washer though). Fortunately there's a grate over the oil catch barrel at the local Jiffy Lube where I drop off my used oil so I could get it back. I've since bought the magnetic drain plug (and a better catch pan, like the one Tim shows, only my caps are green) and have had no problems since. Rudy

And right now I have the throttle body taken off to clean... Oh wait, wrong forum. That's on my daily driver Acura.. heh.

Ed thinks - you dont have kids .... do you?

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Actually I do.....they're occupied with playing Wii Fit at the moment...

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He has kids, and a wife. Why do you think he's in the garage looking for things to do?

I gotta get me that game ! sounds fun

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Not to mention it's too cold for golf... Now I'm going to put away Christmas decorations and organize the garage. I might find something I never knew I had.

This really is a great DIY. A couple of suggestions. Put a screen over the drain pan. That way, it the drain plug will neither block the opening nor fall inside the drain pan. Second, wear long rubber gloves to avoid any hot-oil burns (I also wore goggles, in case of splatter). Finally, put down a lot of newspapers to catch any spills or splatters.

I like the safety glass idea, I normally think of those right AFTER I get something in my eye

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I tried doing my oil change without jacks using the method you mentioned but my oil pan was too tall so even with the incline I still had to jack my car up a couple of inches. Still it took me NO time to get the oil changed on my car. What an easy job!

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That is why I bought the low profile 10 quart oil pan I showed in my previoius post.

Yeah, regular maintenance items on this car are very easy to take care of. In a lot of newer cars the oil filter is so grossly misplaced such that you need two or three elbows to get it out, and then it dumps oil on your exhaust just to spite you. Even the spark plugs, which are a a bit of a pain, are still a lot easier than most transverse mounted V-6s. And good god, just forget about the accessory belts on new sport compacts. On this it takes five minutes, on others you just need to be ready to go to the doctor for replacement knuckles and blood loss.

How much does the oil and filter cost? With that flat oil collection pan, it seems pretty easy to drain the oil. And do most oil change places accept used oil deposits?

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Each qt of Mobil 1 0W-40 costs $6.99 at local Auto Part Store. I bought the Filter from Pelican for less than $15. Also bought a drain plug at a nominal cost. Around $90 total cost? I needed 10 quarts of oil.

Placing floor jacks was no trouble at all... really easy.

Andy, I think the filter about $15 and comes with a rubber sealing gasket and a crush washer for the drain plug. Having an extra drain plug (just in case) is not a bad idea (look down toward the bottom of the link below). They cost about $4.50. Sunset prices are probably cheaper than those posted in the link below. Suncoast Moblie 1 oil is about $6 per quart. So total cost for the oil and filter is about $65 to $70, which is a lot less than the dealer will charge.

Thanks Tim. Does Sunset still sell parts at cost plus? Their website doesn't have that advertised like they used to? Also, is the washer that comes with the filter set the same crush washer that comes with the new drain plugs? Also, why can't you drain the oil from a cold engine? Doesn't all the oil drain into the pan when the car is sitting for a few days?

I "think" Sunset is still cost + pricing, but you probably need to call them to verify. I believe the crush washer is the same in the filter set as with the drain plug. The drain plug is aluminum so it is possible to strip the hex opening in the plug. I think extra crush washers are something like 6 cents each. Having the oil warm will help it flow out of the engine better. Warm is better than HOT! Frpm a personal safety standpoint, cold oil is better than HOT oil!

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Oops...guilty of not reading thoroughly!

How long does it usually take for the oil to go from just ran hot, to sitting in the garage warm? No way I want my first oil change to result in hot oil burns!

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If you use a ratchet socket and put on some cheap vinyl gloves you shouldn't get burned. I prefer to drain my oil while HOT just in case any of the deposits harden with the cooling of the oil and don't drain completely. Just my personal preference but not based on any real evidence of a difference.

Isn't 0w-40 like water? Does it actually flow slowly when cold?

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Last oil change I used Castrol Syntec 5w-50 oil. On sale at $4.99/quart. Took oil with car to local Porsche dealership service department and had oil change done at dealership. (I was in a time bind and car was due for an oil change before I could find time to do it myself.) Sincerely, Macster.

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I've managed to spill a bit of operating temp. oil just about every time I've changed it. If you're wearing those cheap blue shop gloves it'll just feel warm, won't bother you at all. Motor oil is just bad at transferring heat. It may be very hot, but most of it slicks right off and what's left behind doesn't have the heat to hurt you. I think motor oil has about a quarter the thermal conductivity of regular old water.

I used to use a drain pan like the ones shown, with a "catch basin" and a small hole in it to drain the oil into the actual tank of the pan. Always spilled the oil as the oil drained out of the engine far faster than it would go through the samll hole. Bought a new drain pan that is open at the top and has a spout to pour out the oil. Never have a problem with spilling oil now. Once drained I put the oil into a 5 gallon pail from Home Depot. This way I can change the oil on the Porsche, or our other cars a couple of times, then take it to the local Jiffy Lube where they will accept used oil. AutoZone will also take it.

What's the best tips to avoid spilling oil all over the place?

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Mobil 1 0w-40 oil not quite as good in the spec department as some other oils. Has been ok for thousands of miles but I drive my car (02 Boxster, currently with over 227K miles on it) alot and never short trips and change the oil/filter every 5K miles. Another car owner who takes shorter trips more frequently or wants to run more miles between oil changes might not be ok with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. Based on my unscientfic observations any oil: Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 15w-50, Mobil 1 5w-50, Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, Mobil 1 5w-40 (used in my VW TDi) and Mobil 1 5w-30 (used for awhile in my '06 GTO); all run like water when drained hot from engine. Cold I don't know how they flow, but I believe they all flow ok. I note even with 15w-50 oil in my Boxster a year or two while I lived in the mid-west never caused any problems, even in cold cold weather starting and driving. I used this oil early on after I first bought the car new and this engine has over 227K miles on it and still runs great so even 15w-50 oil in cold weather apparently did it no harm. However, I'd not advise 15w-50 be used in cold temperatures. You really should try to stick with a mutli-viscosity grade of oil that matches up well with the low temperatures experienced in where you live and drive. My Boxster's engine has run more miles on 0w-40, 15w-50, and 10w-40 than most engines have run on any one oil and my Boxster's engine has suffered no apparent ill effects based on how well it continues to run. My '03 Turbo is currently running Castrol Syntec 5w-50 oil. Sincerely, Macster.

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where did you get the pan ?

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Break the plug loose then set things up for draining. You can start with just a rag under where the oil will hit while using a wrench. Finish unscrewing after having the waste oil receiver lined up. Oil doesn't spew out just because the threads have been loosened and drips are few if any.

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Looks like Autozone sells them for under $10!

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Put down a plastic or canvas drop cloth, and use any large opening catch pan. The last tip is to push the bolt up while you loosen it, that way when it's free you can quickly move out of the way, and the oil shoots straight down, instead of spraying all over like a water *****.

It's a dirty job! If you save $150 then you can buy a nice dinner and forget about your burns on your arms. You will have bonded with your car and it's a good feeling.

1. I use ramps for the car, 2. I cover my oil catch pan with nylons from the wife's drawer so I can spot any debris and catch the plug if I drop it. 3. Make sure you fill up the filter housing with oil first, then slowly drop the filter into the oil, let it soak up some oil, add more if you need too before raising the housing and oil filter up to the intake boss. 4. Make sure you lubed the O ring on the housing before hand and never roll the O ring on the housing - place it around the groove to prevent a twist in the rubber that can cause a sealing issue. 5. Buy a small bag of cat litter if you don't already own a cat - for emergency oil spill clean up! 6. I take my used oil to our local transfer station where they take it off my hands for recycling for no charge. 7. I pull out my lawn chair, fire up a cigar, pop a brew and put some Floyd on.

To keep from making a mess when you change oil just recycle a 5-gallon paint can (plastic). Cut it down to the height needed and no more to fit under the car. Beats those silly little things designed for a car with 4-6 qts.

Good tips, thanks! I just looked at my last Indy oil change receipt. Aside from being charged $12 a quart for the oil, I was charged a $40 service fee, $33 for a Porsche filter, $12 for oil disposal. Total was over $200! That was 2 years back, I must have been richer then. No more. I'm doing it myself in the spring!!

on the savings I will have to take a pic next time... I live on a dead end with no sidewalks, but a curb, and a flat front yard.... I just drive onto the grass, and back up so the *** hangs over the curb - perfect height, no jacking - yea, dont forget to list that little plug in the center of the pan!!! I like the pan better than a bucket because its easy to go drop off the oil at the collection center - and yes $10 at autozone !

I read we need a 74mm 14 point oil filter wrench, right? How come all the wrenches this size say they fit 944's, but not 996's? http://www.etoolcart.com/oilfilterwrenchh2175.aspx

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I got it at AutoZone. See link below - about half way down the page part number 11837. Auto Zone Oil Drain Pan

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thank you

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I use a pair of generic oil filter pliers and it works quite well. Plus I can use it on other vehicles as for our SUV the oil filter is under a plastic airdam and these pliers make it easy to access without removing any body components. I bought these pliers at Wal-Mart for less than $10.

I just use a big cloth strap wrench, works fine.

When you do get the filter housing off, is the paper element dripping oil? Do you throw the paper housing into the trash, or is there a law about disposal of the paper element?

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You have to let it drain out a bit and I'm not sure about disposal of the filter in your area. Best to do a web search for your area. But before you get rid of it... I would get out a razer blade or sharp knife and cut open the filter. Slice it across one side and each end so that you can lay it out on a counter or on top of newspapers (put something heavy on each end) and then run a magnet across the inside of the filter to see what you can pick up. This is the great thing about this style oil filter as it is easy to inspect and see if you have any 'issues'. Don't forget to wipe out the filter housing with a clean cloth and inspect for any debris trapped at the bottom. The oil filters with the sealed metal canisters are not very green when you think about the type we're using here and as well, I find you can never get all of the oil out of the sealed type anyway.

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I just throw it down the street gutter opening but only after I pour the oil down there! I am just kidding!

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Ha, with 2k miles on the oil, I would only be changing it because it has been 2 years. Doubt there is much in terms of metal deposits inside the filter. But good point about checking. I found out that the local STS tire place takes used motor oil (and heats their shop with it in winter), and will take the used filter element and dispose of it too! It's making more and more sense to do my own oil changes!

Also, at what point does the oil start coming out when loosening the plug bolt? Is it right before it comes completely off, or does it start squirting out when it's half way off? If I use a ratchet w/ 8mm hex socket, will I not be able to know when the bolt will come flying off - followed by the flood of oil?

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LOL, Andy, The oil starts flowing slowly when the plug is almost off. Then once the plug is completely off, it really flows. But because the plug is stuck to the socket, you probably won't drop it and at the same time, you can put the plug back to slow the flow. Also, spilled oil looks worse than it is. It didn't stick to my garage floor yet of course I have a poorly painted thin layer of floor paint(epoxy) on the floor.

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I used my standard oil filter wrench and 2 pieces of drain pipe I cut off a scrap out of the garage for a sleeve to make the filter housing bigger, took 2 minutes and was free! Works like a charm too

If I'm saving $150 by doing the oil change myself, I'll gladly buy the right tools to make the job as easy as possible going forward.

what are you suggesting... mine isnt the "right tool"

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I should have said I'd buy the ACTUAL tools!

I found out about this tip the hard way. If you have an engine protection plate and you jack the car up at an angle, remove the plate before doing the oil change. The plate does have a hole in it so that you can remove the drain plug without removing the plate, however, if you jack the car up at an angle while removing the drain plug some of the oil can catch the top of the plate around the hole and flow across the top of the plate and miss the drain pan as it falls. When changing my oil, I jack the rear passenger side high enough to allow room to fit the drain pan under the car and loosen the drain plug and remove the oil filter housing. My pan is large enough that both of them can drain into the same pan. While the oil is draining I lower the car a little on the jack so that the car is more level while the oil is draining. I can’t lower the car all of the way because my drain pan is too high. I then raise the car again to install the new plug and filter. I find this method far easier than putting four jack stands under the car and the car sits level enough for the oil to drain thoroughly.

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There you go... http://cgi.ebay.ca/MERCEDES-BMW-Pors...item53deafcd15

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Your wife is going to be pissed when she runs water into the kitchen sink and the waste water runs on to the floor!

Nice post. What is your sequence to place four floor jack stands? You did not jack the engine up to place the jack stands did you? BTW, how do you post the pictures right under your texts. Would you show me how? Thanks. Nghia

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That one is 76mm wide, which will probably slip around the 74mm filter housing - no?

I think I picked up my filter wrench at Walmart (Ampro 74/76 - T70401 74/76mm 15 flutes 2 step) for a few bucks. Works great. Rick 99 996C4 87 994S

yea, it will slip, I have one - that I "thought would work" now the real reason for my mickey mouse wrench comes out............. Tim, I traveled to Asia (where my wife is from) and the drains often just drain right on the floor or into a small river under your feet... infact it a wonder they bother having a sink at all because the drains are so short they splash on your feet ???? Amazing place to visit, makes you confused between wanting to move there forever and thinking you are never coming back as long as you live. Great people Sorry OP for going OT - its the first time I have ever done that

One more question. When you put the new oil filter in, do you put the paper element into the plastic housing FIRST, then screw the housing back on - seating the paper element as the housing is tightened? Hopefully I'll be able to do the oil change tomorrow, if my ordered oil pan arrives as scheduled. Thanks!

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It would be easier to slip the filter over the nozzle, quickly followed by the plastic housing. Or, order the spin-on filter from L&N and you will never have to deal w/ the paper filter or plastic cover again.

Does anybody have experience with the 'Bigfoot' 911 Magnetic Drainplug? http://www.lnengineering.com/drainplug.html Your thoughts?

I posted a DIY in our spanish forum with good pictures: 996 Carrera Oil change instructions DIY It's in spanish, but if you're not a spanish spoken you can understand it by watching the pics

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Yes I do! And I have to say I like it. Just installed it 5k miles ago. When I changed my oil last weekend the plug had caught it's share of fine metal particles. If you do the spin-on filter you can also use a "Filter-Mag" and really catch some metal.

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I'm going to purchase it and the new oil filter

that's what I do, I seat the filter in the housing, then I fill it with fresh oil before screwing the housing back onto the motor

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Cool, using both makes sense .. Whenever I do my next oil-change I'll put them both in. Thanks, medtech!

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Look here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3404 I upload the pictures to http://imageshack.us/ then copy and past the forum codes that will allow you to post pictures. Then I simply type my message on top of the code.

It's happening! I didn't spill a drop of oil either! And, to get a little extra clearance, I used two piles of leaf bags to drive up on - worked out perfectly. Only problem was turning the oil plug with the hex ratchet head by hand, using my gloves, since a few drops of oil made turning the ratchet a slippery project! I just have to do the filter, fill it up with oil, and wonder why I never tried this before! Thanks for all the tips.

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I spoke too soon!!! heh..

WTG ! perfect driveway... the *** is naturally up in the air! a little tight on the sides though huh? (mine too) but for that type of savings AND the fun of a DIY job, its worth it....

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LOL, was thinking how the heck do you take the trash bin out without moving the car..

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The car is never this far out of the garage. When it's all the way in, there's plenty of room to take out the trash!

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Cool - that'll work! I usually jack mine up and it takes more time to jack the back end up then it does to do the oil change part. Well done! Rudy

Hardest part was getting the filter off without making a mess. Not much clearance under there! Next time I might do ramps. Or, now that I know what to do, it will be easier. Next time I'll be trying to buy gallons of Mobile 1, instead of messing with 9 quart bottles! Plus, I have to go buy quart # 10 to top it off properly. THEN it's Miller time!

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Not sure you'll find a 5 quart size bottle of 0W-40.. Yup...it took 10 quarts for me too...

AndyK, What grade oil did you use? I finally decided to look at my owner's manual and see 0W-40 is not on the recommended list....

I used 0w-40, like Porsche recommends today. When my manual was printed, I don't think there was any 0w-40!

0W40 is too thin I prefer 5W50 This is the oil I've been using and I change it every 5000 miles It's very important for the engine life

Hey guys, I am about to change my oil. I live in Michigan so most are familiar with the weather. For the last 6 oil changes I have used Mobil 1 0W-40, any recommendations goingt to a different weight? If so, please explain? Thanks!

You should use the search function...oil viscosities and brands have been discussed before.

Pretty much if its hot or typically warm weather use straight 40, 15w50 or something with a thick blend. Normally lighter oils are recommended in cold weather. I think it helps the oil make it into areas during the initial start up which prevent the engine from being worn out from just run up at start.

What do you guys think of this - would it make things easier? http://www.qwikvalve.com/home.php

Nope-

I've got something similar to that on two of my cars and it's awesome, but I wouldn't put it on my Boxster due to the location of the plug. You'd be able to throttle the oil better, too, and keep it from overflowing your drain pan.

That valve would be sheared off in no time, and then you will have a real nightmare on your hands. The drain plug is already rediculously easy to get at and drain. I wish all my other cars were as easy to change the oil on as my 996.