Look At My Temperature!

Is this bad? Gonna get my radiators cleaned out tmr morning. Hopefully, that'll solve the problem if not i gotta replace my water pump and thermostat. Any ideas?

Follow this discussion here , read the last couple of pages.

Yes you are running a bit hot, but what are the parameters? In traffic, stopped? At speed on highway? City driving, stop and start? Has the temperature warning light come on at all? (if not the car is not overheating, yet, but it is still running hotter than normal.) From a diagnostic perspective, before diving in and changing the wp, you should consider the following elements Check the expansion tank cap, it may need replacing. Check the expansion tank for leaks Are the fans operating in both low and high speed modes Are the radiators plugged (the cleaning is an easy DYI) Having chased a cooling problem for a while, mine was a combo of dirty radiators, a failing tank cap and a failing expansion tank. I did also put in the LN engineering 160F thermostat which I like.

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Funny thing is, the temperature did not go down even when i was driving at speed at the highway. Expansion tank cap is brand new but expansion is not new. There are no obvious signs of leaks coming from either but i have seen droplets of coolant coming from the water pump. Both fans are running just fine. Just checked them out 2 days ago. Will see if cleaning out the radiators will help. Cheers

you might have an air bubble

When I have an internal air bubble I pass them out. My family usually complains. But I feel better...and your car will too.

3 rules of getting old: 1. never pass a restroom 2. never trust a fart 3. never waste a hard on I am not old yet

BTW there are 2 things that I noticed form one pic..... 1. you are 100 degrees too cold 2. your next mod should be getting rid of the thing that makes that little Christmas tree light up with those numbers and letters

automatic ?? radiator ?? am i on Bimmerfest?

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According to my Dealer and my Indy Porsches are known to run higher than normal temps. I had this issue with my boxster, my 911 and now my CTT on traffic on a hot day. It does not happen ALL the time but I have seen cases of it. Well, I only saw it on the 911 once - I was driving hard =)

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??? driving hard ???? were you trying to beat someone to a craigslist "deal"

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You must be old or you wouldn't know our secret code and bylaws.

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Like this one? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/2465222822.html

$500 is a deal worth "driving hard" - $800 is just a run of the mill deal I bought one for $500 w/ bag

Yeah, waiting for response. Funny thing I was thinking $500ish too... hahaha. LOW Ballersssss

that's cuz you're a cheap bastard...... no wonder we get along so well

Maybe you might want to contact him. Seems that your negotiation skills are more refinned than mine... To the OP - Sorry about highjacking your thread but its ALL his ^^^^ fault... LOL

dont worry, he drives a tip...nothing bothers him

FYI - i was just out driving around town today for about an hour. Outside temperature was 30C (86F) All city driving (stop and go and never more than 50 mph) and the temperature eventually go to just the right side of the 0 on the 80 (metric cluster). According to my OBD hack the coolant temp was 99C and the Durametric indicates that the hack is about 3C too hot. So you are probably only about 102C or so showing.

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My info is that water pumps on these cars can leak, but the *only* permissible sign is a bit of that white residue we often see around pumps or caps or tanks that are leaking. In the case of the water pump, though, the amount/size and location of this stain is specified. But under no circumstances should you see any liquid. If you see any coolant coming from a water pump then the water pump is suspect, if the fluid is not coming from a leaking hose or some other place from above or around the water pump. My advice would be to get the water pump replaced and after the system is properly refilled and bled subject the car to hot running conditions to see if the coolant temperature reading improves. I have to point out that the temp may not improve. In some cases of a cooling system that is compromised (can't maintain pressure) the hot coolant will flash to steam and this has two results: 1) The area that flashes the coolant to steam gets hot because the steam acts to block the flow of cooler coolant; 2) The engine coolant temp gage needle may not reflect the degree of overheating because the coolant may not be all that much hotter overall because of the blockage I spoke of above. Also, these temp gages are generally rather dampened down and do not always reflect the coolant's actual temperature. Sincerely, Macster.

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No Ed. He was folllowing your list...rule #3.

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HAHA very funny ...

So, what is 'normal range' for water temp? (Yes Ed, I miss my air cooled not to worry about it)

I noticed some times when washing the car if I spray water on the radiators debri that got between the a/c and radiator will dislodge along with other debri on other radiators. I don't see any mention of having tried cleaning the radiators so figured I'd mention cleaning them. Either a porsche gagrage and if you are lucky an auto parts store might have a pressure gauge for the radiator. Having the proper screw on cap for a porsche is the tough one to find in an auto parts store. If there is a leak then lower pressure can make the water hotter. It's not that water leaks out but the lower pessure that causes trouble. For a goofy way to judge accuracy of the anolog gauge and just how hot the car is try when the engine is hot like shown using a hose on the radiators. Start out spraying lightly on the radiators then for a thicker concentration to try to keep away from shocking and cracking the radiator in case it is possible. If your car is real hot then maybe steam from radiators and you'll see a good sized swing in temp. If the temp only drops slightly then either the pressure is too low to transfer heat out or the gauge is just not calibrated for 12 oclock to be normal operating temp. Also if thee isn't too much of a difference its how a normally functioning cooling system would react. For what you might not like to hear. Trans might be having problems making a lot of heat or the water pump is failing. Any chance a previous owner went non standard antifreeze even though I don't think much harm would come from it?

Normal operating temp for our 996 warms up to about 87 degrees Celsius. However, you usually see that driving on the highway in cooler temperatures. The fan do not turn on high until it passes 102 degrees Celsius unless you do the fan mod. I have no issues keeping the coolant temp under 95 degrees Celsius with the fan mod on. You can still see the coolant temp rise with the AC on which turns the fan on low setting. This is all reading the coolant temp through the AC display in our cars.

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all in good fun, not tring to make you upset or p!ss anyone off.... I dont think it looks that high. However if it is differant than before the repair I would suspect the repair left behind some air pockets or something...You might also have an issue with the impeller on the WP..?

My car has been running just to the right of the zero lately as well. What are they charging these days for water pump installs, 3 labor hours?

I had the same issue as 100plus and did not drive after seeing the very slight drip per comments from Macster & others here, many thanks guys, the new water-pump did the trick, thought I do need to make the time for a radiator cleaning. After many cooling related issues with a number of BMWs, I do not mess around with cooling issues on water-cooled german cars. It almost made me go aircooled when I crossed over!

Gas guage reading will become issue before temp reading IMO.

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I am in DC today and its in the 90s. Its normal for your pcar temp running with the needle just to the right of "0" without the fan mod.

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Welcome to DC! I didn't see you.. I thought it was normal but with all the "hub bub" about temps it made me a bit paranoid.

Outside temp gauge was 100F on 295 in DC this afternoon - engine temp gauge needle didn't go to the right of "0" but then again RPMs were low in stop & go traffic. I am guessing it would have if I put he revs up. It was hot and humid!

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Interesting, I come that way to toward the beltway daily today but it didn't hit to the right until I came down the back roads. I added a bit of "Porsche liquid gold" in this morning so today the needle didn't go as far to the right. It mostly stayed on the right semi circle line of the 0. This weekend it actually passed the 0 a couple of times.

I found out that my fans are not RUNNING unless the aircon is on ... HELP!

do they run on high? (the temp has to get WAY up there..) I ran a jumper from the fuse panel so mine ran on high instead of low. The reason was a blown resistor, the fix was 2 minutes and $0.02 worth of wire... I will look for the thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nsfw-pics.html OH man, this has been 99% sanitized...you newbies missed a great thread here....sadly it saw closed and shut down...I thought I had left a link to the radiator fuse box hack in there but didnt see it.

found it http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509504,1509504 you can try this "hack" and either keep it like me or if it works you know your resitor is blown...order the parts

Thanks for the research Ivangene, anything ever come of the "new & Improved" resistor pack mentioned in the link?

Yea sorry I don't do water anymore, I am on Brawndo, it's got electrolytes

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They only come on when my aircon is on. My workshop connected my car to a diagnostics computer and brought the car up to 100C but still no fan came on only after we turned the aircon on. Gonna let them check if the problems lies with the relay. Just wondering where is the relay located? Cheers

[QUOTE=ivangene;8706135]Yea sorry I don't do water anymore, I am on Brawndo, it's got electrolytes You know what W.C. Fields said about water...

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I had to laugh a little bit at this. I was actually thinking the same thing and wondering about the fuel filter or pump.

I don't think the temp you have is any real problem. Be it calibration or whatever it's around the 12 oclock so not bad. Going close to the red then you can get real concerned. Here's another question and something to check. Figuring you aren't the original owner I have to ask if the cars computer has been flashed. Concern there is if the ignition has been advanced. If so you can throw parts and cooling tricks at it all day and the extra advanced ignition isn't going to give a darn and keep that heat pouring into the cooling system. Hence above average temps to look at all day every day.

I think we need a clarification here- If there is a leak then lower pressure can make the water hotter. It's not that water leaks out but the lower pessure that causes trouble. Lower pressure will not make the car hotter. The inablility of the cooling system to reject the heat that is generated in the engine makes the car hotter. A lower pressure from a leak or compromised water pump will bring down the boiling point of coolant. This will cause problems because the coolant is more likely to flash and not be as effective since the heat transfer rate of a gas is only a fraction of that of a liquid on the same surface area. The boiling point of pure water is 212 F at atmospheric pressure (most 50/50 mixes boil around 220 F at atmospheric pressure). You can also add about 3 degrees F for every psi. It is unlikely that flashing of coolant is causing reduced efficiency and elevating your temperatures unless you have blocked passages.

Ok I just came back from the workshop and they tested the radiator fans. Everything with that seems fine. I asked them to have a look at the waterpump as I have observed droplets of coolant on my garage floor. To my suspicion, the water pump is leaking. I have Placed an order for a new water pump and a low temp thermostat. Hopefully paired with that a full coolant flush would solve my problem. Cheers

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OK then with the pessure in the cooling system being low through the range of temps wont make the car hotter. Just the engine will be hotter when the coolant is boiling off. I'de advise keeping the a/c on so that it wont be an uncomfortable experience and quicken things along Here is my observation from only 42 years of driving and fixing cars. Reduced pressure in the cooling system gets a car in trouble. Be it the fluid can escape which is why the pressure wont build up or reduced pressure doesn't allow the radiator and its flow rate to throw off the heat. Some cars removing the thermostat will doom the car to running hotter. A removed thermostat car doesn't warm up as fast and all dont run hotter while some might run cooler. 6 of 1 and half a dozen of another but when the pressure is low through the whole range of operating temp the cars headed to a high heat. Oh my could this be why the radiator caps and over pressures have a set range for bleeding off pressure? Anyway a quick check of my seat of the pants theory is either remove the cap or leave it loose and hit the hwy like I have tried in emergencies running with a hole in the radiator. It keeps the pressure down so that the water doesn't jet out the hole as fast but..........emmm be ready for a boiling cooling system when the system isn't pressurized.

Just wondering, at what temperature does the fan actually come on? My fans came on only when the temperature gauge showed 96-98 Degrees C. Ideas? Cheers

Temperature will go up one degree Celsius and then proceed to drop when fan is on high as soon as its turned on.

Pac 996- I am nto saying you are wrong. Actually you are correct in many of your observations. Heat transfer in an engine is a function of flow of a fluid across the internal heated surface area of the engine. Flow is a function of a difference of pressures so if you are not producing pressure (such as having the cap off) there is may not be enough flow in some internal passages that require more pressure to produce adequate flow.

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My sources disagree a bit but there is some agreement on this info, so I use it: The fans come on low speed when the coolant temp reaches 212F (100C). They switch off when the coolant drops to 205F (96C). If the coolant temp continues to rise when it reaches 216F (102C) the fans are switched to high speed. They remain in high speed mode until the coolant temp drops to 205F. (I have observed this behavior in my 02 Boxster and my 03 Turbo using real time OBD data monitoring device connected to the OBD2 port.) If the A/C is on the fans run all the time at low speed unless the coolant temp climbs to 216F at which time the fan speed switches to high speed. Also, if the A/C is on the fan speed can switch to high if the A/C system obtains some high internal pressure threshold that arises I think when it is called upon to satisfy extraordinary cabin cooling demand. Sincerely, Macster.