Supercharged 2002 stalling at idle when warm??

Hi everyone - new to the Porsche world and couldn't be happier. I just picked up a 2002 911 with full Fabspeed exhaust and a VF engineering kit. So far it's been awesome and runs like crazy....only only one problem, it seems to stall when idling after warm. I'll get to a light after driving a bit, pop the clutch and the idle gets rough after 20 seconds and then it will just die if I don't give it more gas. The vacuum lines seem good and it's worth noting that the car sat for almost 2 years without being driven so I thought at frost it was bad gas or sediment. However two fresh tanks of 94 later and it still happens. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance, this forum is a great resource.

Coming from audis a bad crank sensor would cause the car to die after it warms. If the car was cold it would start untill it reached a certain temp. Hope that helps

Quotes source post: 8952721

Couple of things come to mind when I hear of a car not being driven for a while, and 2 years is certainly a while... The first is of course the gas is bad, but more than that the gas has turned to varnish like liguid or even partially turned to a jelly like substance or done whatever gas does when it sits for a long time and this is interfering with gas flow through the fuel lines, and probably those closest to the engine and in the engine compartment. The injectors can also have been affected by the deterioration of the gasoline. Two years is a long time. I know of a 993 Turbo S that sat nearly 3 years and required considerable work mainly to its fuel system -- fuel pump, fuel lines, injectors -- to bring the car back to its previous good running state. In your car's case a fresh tank or two of fuel may not be enough, but more might possibly over time improve things. However, I do not like driving a car, continuing to run its engine when it exhibits such behavior. My concern is the engine is obviously sick and what other possible damage may be occuring arising from continuing to run the engine in its obviously sick condition. Also, the sickness may not be directly related to a fueling problem. Which brings me to ... The second thing I think of when I hear of a car sitting unused for a long time is rodent infestation and subsequent damage. I've seen (a Turbo Cab) engine (out of the car) after having hosted a few rats and the damage can be extensive. However, the only clue the owner had was the car ran poorly, the check engine light came on (I do not know the error codes) and he took the car in and the tech in diagnosing the error code spotted rodent sign and further investigation uncovered severe rodent damage. The engine had to come out of the car to allow the engine wiring, hoses, etc. to be replaced and to give the techs access to the damage the rodents made in gnawing their way about from the passenger cabin to the engine compartment. Check the engine intake air box and filter element (and cabin filter area) for any signs of rodents. Under the car shine a bright light and look on top of the underbody panels for any signs of trash/debris. Rodents are messy critters and nesting trash and worse end up on the top of the panels. If you find no signs of rodents then I would consider having the fuel system flushed and cleaned to remove any stale gasoline and what it has turned unto in the 2 years since the car was lasted used, and to confirm the fuel system delivers the proper amount of fuel and at the right pressure. If you can find a shop that can remove the injectors and flow test them checking not only the amount of fuel they flow but also the spray pattern is correct, fine. Otherwise, I'd be tempted to simply replace them but only after the rest of the fuel system is in top shape. It makes no sense to replace the injectors only to pump crappy old fuel and what the fuel has turned into through new injectors and risk damaging the new injectors. (The bad fuel can cause the injector nozzle score so the injector leaks or block/plug the spray holes. If either of these happen a new injector is then no better than the old one it replaced.) I'd be tempted to 'while I was there' to replace the plugs and coils and of course change the oil/filter and even drain and refill the cooling system with the right anti-freeze and blended to right ratio with distilled water. Along with the above a new battery and engine air filter and cabin filter I think just make good sense, car hygiene wise. After you get the engine sorted out a brake fluid flush/bleed is due. Run the A/C and verify it works. Sitting that long the A/C system seals can dry and shrink and then let the refrigerant out leak out (A/C systems like to be used periodically) and the system won't blow cold air. If you run the system like this it can damage the compressor since with no refrigerant flowing through the system no compressor oil is carried through the system to oil the compressor. Sincerely, Macster.

If I read your description correctly- the idle is ok with a cold engine ?That being the case I would check the secondary air injection components for leakage .The hoses can become brittle and snap .They are hard to see.Other candidates are the AOS and maybe a gummed up throttle body .It would be easier to isolate with the Durametric Software . Dave

the vacum hoses on the secondary air injection

Surprised no one suggested the MAF and/or 02 sensors. First thing to do is download the ECU and see what codes pop up. As always, Mr. Macster has some great advise that should be undertaken regardless of the source of your idle issues. Checking for error codes will most likely identify your issue...

That was the Durametric point .Although if the CEL is not on there may not be any codes set .