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YOUR RESEARCHhow important to do a brake flush?
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I took mine in a month or so ago for an oil change and the writer called about my fluid not being Porsche brand and when it was last changed ect.
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About the stain, I've used ATE super blue on Porsches and BMWs that I've tracked over the last 6 years or so, I have yet to notice a stain.
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Suggestion
Flushing is replacing the fluid where bleeding is letting out a little to check/remove air bubbles.
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Suggestion · Original poster
a reputable indy shop recommended a brake flush as well.
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Suggestion
In my 14 years of driving I never thought changing the fluid was all that important, until I lost my pedal in my 911 when trying to stop at nearly 120 MPH at the drag strip.
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going to have my 15k service done on my 04' c4s. a reputable indy shop recommended a brake flush as well. how important is it, and what is it for? sorry im not a mechanical guy!
john
For regular street driving the recommendation is to flush the brake fluid every 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture from the air. Moisture (and other contaminants) in the brake fluid lowers its boiling point. If the brake fluid boils from the heat generated by the brakes, the resulting gas, being compressible, will not transmit force to the calipers which will result in no brakes. No brakes = bad.
In my 14 years of driving I never thought changing the fluid was all that important, until I lost my pedal in my 911 when trying to stop at nearly 120 MPH at the drag strip. After I stopped the car and was about to turn onto the return lane, my pedal went to the floor. Freaked out, I tried it again and it got a little better, then by about 4 more times of mashing it, it had fully resumed. I was stumped on why the clutch worked but not the brakes for about 30 seconds (there on the same resovoir).
I talked to my Father about it and he goes, "you boiled the fluid in the calipers". I was like, Duh. Why didn't that dawn on me? The fluid boiled causing compressable (is this a word?) gases which made the brake pedal go to the floor but not the clutch. After speaking to my friend who owned the car for about 3 years, he said he had never changed the fluid out.
So, to the question, I would highly recommend changing the fluid. Moisture builds inside the system. Not only can it cause pedal loss, moisture can cause a whole host of other issues like corrosion.
Sorry for the long rant.......
Corrosion due to moisture in the fluid can also affect ABS sensors, then you've got a panic stop and no ABS.... plus a bigger repair bill to replace them.
2 other quick points:
Whether you DIY or use a mechanic, when the brake fluid is flushed, make sure the clutch line is flushed out too. The clutch and brakes share the same reservoir and fluid. The clutch bleeder valve is high up on the transmission on the drivers (left) side and is a PITA to get to.
If the car will see any track time or you just want to be able to tell chicks at cocktail parties that you are using racing brake fluid, try upgrading to a brake fluid with a higher boiling point like ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid DOT4.
I own 2 track cars and would NEVER go racing without flushing the brake system each time before I go out for the weekend. Some weekends on tight twisty tracks I flush it once over the weekend. Just not worth the risk.
just a few quick points. there is a difference between bleeding and flushing the system. Flushing is replacing the fluid where bleeding is letting out a little to check/remove air bubbles.
During track weekends, I'll bleed the system at the end of the day. If you're using quality fluid, there is NO REASON to change it over the weekend unless you are experiencing braking issues. If that's the case, you should reconsider the brake fluid that you're using.
Now, back to the original post. I believe that Porsche recommends replacing the fluid every 2 years. Their fluid is quite good. I'd be hesitant to use Super Blue in a non-track car as it has a tendency to stain the tank and lead a future buyer to believe that the car was tracked. I had a dealer replace my fluid once (before my first event). My wallet was lighter by around $125. I quickly bought a pressure bleeder and now it's a DIY.
So, if you're not a mechanical guy, have the dealer or repair shop change the fluid. Better to be expensive but done correctly than save $$ and have problems.
Steve
IIRC the ATE Type 200 amber fluid is OEM for Porsche and has the wet and dry boiling points as ATE Super Blue. Only difference is color. If you're worried about staining the reservoir, use the Type 200.
+1
I can only speak about my local PCA club rules, but for DEs, both clubs require the brake fluid to have been replaced within the past 6 months, and high performance fluid is strongly recommended.
Some misinformation in this thread;
The abs sensors are in no way connected to the fluid, and will not be harmed by infrequent fluid changes.
The Porsche factory fill brake fluid IS indeed manufactured by ATE, however it does NOT have the same boiling points as the ATE super blue racing fluid. In fact, the rated temperatures are a bit lower. I compared them just two days ago.
About the stain, I've used ATE super blue on Porsches and BMWs that I've tracked over the last 6 years or so, I have yet to notice a stain. I would suggest using the ATE Gold (racing fluid) if you're concerned with the fluid's color, that actually does carry the same temperature ratings as the Super Blue fluid.
Ahmet
It should be done once a year, whether driven or not. Take a look at brake fluid after 2 years and you will understand why simple by the discoloration.
If you track your car then it should be done at least every 6 months.
Even running RBF600 and PF01 pads, I work my brakes so hard I still tend to boil my brake fluid at least once a weekend. Switching to RBF660 has helped, but I still at least bleed my brakes once every track weekend.
I took mine in a month or so ago for an oil change and the writer called about my fluid not being Porsche brand and when it was last changed ect. Since I wasnt sure I ok'd the $125 and wondered if I just got put together for something I didnt need- very nice to read this thread- always learning something new!!
what run group are you in? If you're boiling fluid on a regular basis, you may be doing something wrong. And, working the brakes so hard? why? you may need to rethink your driving style.
^^^^^ what smankow said ^^^^^
If this is the case, you need some on-track instruction. You are either over-braking or just simply braking incorrectly if, in a 996 with your modifications, you boil fluid at least once per DE. This is a driver issue, not an equipment issue.
smankow, he has somehow found his way into the advanced run group.
Pay $40 for a motive bleeder and bleed to you heart's content
It's very easy. I bled my clutch too and it seems to work better. Bleeding/flushing is really pretty simple and can be done pretty fast. Jacking the car and taking off the wheels is the most time consuming part of this DYI.