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YOUR RESEARCHI have a line on some BBS wheels. what are these?
Leading reported evidence
Install bullet nose studs
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I got rid of the spacers needed for the sport design rims, ditched the heavy extra long lug bolts, and installed bullet nose studs with titanium lug nuts which are ridiculously light.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I run an 0288107 center with an 8.5in barrel and 2.5in lip.
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Not sure if that was due to performance or rules and restrictions.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I got rid of the spacers needed for the sport design rims, ditched the heavy extra long lug bolts, and installed bullet nose studs with titanium lug nuts which are ridiculously light.
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Suggestion
Check or replace the O-ring when you do depending how old/hard it is; you may need to add a little sealant before you sandwich everything back together.
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I've been looking for charts that list the centers and offsets for different barrel combinations.
There are some threads on the forum here.
0288 120 is a 996 fitment but I haven't seen 0288-130 and don't know how to find a chart from BBS.
Do you have the wheels in-hand?
Just measure it, or have the owner measure it.
Measure the full wheel width, and the distance from the hub surface to the inside rim of the wheel. Can be calculated from there.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec...d&gclsrc=aw.ds
Because of the stamped as opposed to cast-in lettering on the wheel centre piece these centres a highly likely to have been forged.
That's all I can add.
Edit: 88 surely refers to E88, wouldn't it?
11 perhaps refers to the wheel width, I.e. 11".
130 perhaps refers to the rear wheel whereas/if 120 designates the 996 fitment front wheel.
Well, maybe I'm a sucker. I was able to get one of them and I will bolt it on to see how the offset looks. Indeed, I think it is an e88 and I think there are charts that list center options.
For the time being. I am moving forward and hope to get all four here when I can.
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Sorry, why not just physically measure the wheel offset?
Just putting it on will tell you if it physically fits, but not what it will do to your suspension geometry and how it will change your scrub radius.
I don't know what car you have but 1999-2004 Carrera, 4S, Turbo, all vary between 50-55mm offset stock.
Of course people add spacers all the time and create a large positive scrub radius without thinking about it, so maybe it doesn't matter. If it was me, I would just want to know.
https://low-offset.com/workshop/scrub-radius-explained/
Well measuring offset isn't too bad. When I do the math, and that's no guarantee it's right, it looks like my hub mounting face is approximately 59 mm off center line. Might be a little aggressive for an 11-in rim in a narrow body but the claim is these were on a 996. I tried to search z-bomb to see what he ended up with rear offsets for his car but didn't find anything and I think he did a lot of adjustment. I don't plan to be as aggressive. It's a 2000
996 c4.
Awesome. It will be nice to run without spacers and long lug bolts. They are not a big deal but I just like the idea of getting rid of them. Less is more.
Yes sir, you sure have a lot of rubber stuffed in those wheel wells. Are those 305s?
Looks real good. Tell me what centers you used in the front If you don't mind.
Did see an offset chart that lists your offset for those faces and barrels at 54.8 mm. It doesn't say how much you get for front or backside mounting though. That's something I'll look for also.
Fronts are 0288274 with an 8in barrel and 1.5in lip Offset 61.2. Tire is a 275
Rear tire is a 305/35. Took a fair amount of work to get the rear to work. A shorter tire may make it easier, not sure.
After I wrote this I saw that you had 275 in the front. That's amazing... I have a set of GT3 coffin arms to install to get camber but I don't think I need that kind of rubber. I will refer to your thread to review more on that.
How much inboard space do you have in the rear?
Inboard space in the back is not a problem, the front is another story, with the 2.5in �hlins spring I needed a 5MM spacer. With the 2.25 Eibach spring on my JRZ I was able to ditch the spacer but clearance is as small as I would go.
thank you. I will have a bit less inboard room with my offset but should be easier on the outboard side so I will have tire size options.
Here are the charts for
0288107 centers to help anyone looking in the future.
Still looking for charts for 0288130 centers if anyone has access to them.
I've been thinking about this and had wondered about scrub radius in the past. Learned quite a bit this time around. Mostly academic in my case but interesting. I found some references saying stock design is approximately 7 mm negative scrub radius but Don't quote me.
Since I won't be running spacers anymore the scrub radius will be closer to the original engineer design. I will run wider tires, spacers won't be necessary to fill the wheel wells.
Now I think about scrub radius, I see that wider tires don't affect it. Only the center of the tire dictates the scrub radius. I will be using a slightly taller tire. The overall result is that spacers increase scrub radius and increasing tire diameter moves scrub in the opposite direction. Camber plays also moving scrub negative with increasing negative camber. In the end it'll probably be ok.
Wow.That is a tall tire in back.
And a lot of offset in front. Wonder how much that changed your steering feel.
Interesting to look back at the cup cars because they had much smaller tires and they were tucked in quite a bit. Not sure if that was due to performance or rules and restrictions.
Ok good news for figuring out these wheels.
Eric from SupremePower was super resopnsive and got me info.
"This center is Outside Mount (rims on the front) with 36mm of Rim Flange Height. It is essentially an E88 version of the 996.2 Cup Center 0229052 with 0.5mm more flange height plus it has the 5 lug holes with the long lug bores for long studs."
They are currently built as 9's and 11's with a lot of inboard room so it looks like they could easily be built to 10" front and 12" rear but I will leave them alone. They are going to be fine for my purposes. I reserve the right to change my mind...
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These things are a lot lighter than my Sport Design wheels. And that is one of the things that justify the E88s.
It looks like race folks are able to replace lips or barrels of 3 piece wheels by building the wheels around the tires at the track. Anyone seen that done or done it themselves?
Thanks jeeper. I'll check him out. Do the race guys ever talk about assembling wheels over their tires at the track? These lips and barrels are so light and relatively cheap it would be good to have that option.. .
Sourcing hardware from various vendors. Glad I'm shopping around. Some of them are kind of hard sell, like "give me your credit card and I'll run it" but not really willing to discuss/ divulge the prices. Cheese and rice. What's the big deal? Some of these sellers smell, THEY ARE slimy. YMMV.
In the end I got the best vibe, service, and price from a guy named Eric at BBS in Georgia. Glad I went to the source.
Thinking about replacing the 👄 lips. Unfortunately there is now a 25% tariff so that's a sudden $300 whack. Hard to know if it'll be over next month, next year, or tomorrow but with my luck it'll be back to normal immediately after I pay. Things seem quite difficult to predict lately.
What's the word on valve stem options? I poked around but didn't see much.
Metal, short, etc.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-m&q=Best%20valve%20stems%20for%20race%20car#piu=ps:70&oshopproduct=pid:7 349185873219040561,oid:7349185873219040561,iid:18384329047227959845,pvt: hg,pvo:19&oshop=apv&pvs=0
You can do that with BBS since they use an O-ring to seal the join between lip and barrel. It's tedious though with 24 bolts per wheel lol. Check or replace the O-ring when you do depending how old/hard it is; you may need to add a little sealant before you sandwich everything back together. BBS bolts have also recently been the subject of a lot of noise in my channels, I've seen more people than expected snap the M6 hardware. Schirmer upsizes to M7 on their E88's because 'Ring use apparently taught them the M6's aren't enough. Food for thought.
Well, I gave it a half did try and don't know how they done did it because I can't see how they get the lip and the barrel close enough to mate. There's a few guys here and there saying they used to do it. Myth? Maybe gotta seat the beads somehow, then you could do it trackside if you're not over spec'd on tire width compared to rim size.
Oh that's an easy one, just like the alignment stud you use to install wheels, grab 4-5 long M6 bolts to start pulling the halves together. Once they're in place, use your actual bolts to hold the halves and replace the long ones with actual ones.
Sizing up the bullet nose studs. These super extra duper long versions look like they are just long enough. You basically have to sign a waiver when you purchase them saying if they're too long it's not their fault, review order, confirm, read small print, etc. They must get a lot of returns on these. Cup wheels have extra thick centers, they need the super size studs. These are 100mm iir.
I don't know how other people do it, but I used to design and build cryostats with 20-40 hole circular flanges (sound familiar? lol) and we'd use techniques like this all the time if the sealing ring was too thick. This is similar except it's your tire bead getting in the way. Don't worry, the tire doesn't exert enough force for 4-5 point loads (the long M6's) to damage the barrels. If it were that easy the wheels would be useless.
It gets easier if you spec your wheels on the wide end of the tire's allowable wheel width, for example a 295 onto an 11J rather than a 10.5J.
Worked like a charm and it let me do a test fit.
After some thought I am going to disassemble and rebuild them with 10 inch barrels. They are ordered.
Winter comes soon; here are my other e88s. They are basically a de tuned world cup ski and, as such, have limited popularity. So, like the 996, it took me a while to understand but absolutely worth it in both instances.
Those were the days.
I like the look of sport design Wheels but can't get past the fact that they are heavy. I see them and think heavy; heavy rotating mass affecting acceleration, deceleration, and suspension.
With that in mind, the e88 makes the right moves. I built these as 9 and 1/2-in front and 12-in rear. I got rid of the spacers needed for the sport design rims, ditched the heavy extra long lug bolts, and installed bullet nose studs with titanium lug nuts which are ridiculously light. Every time I take the wheels off I am amazed.
Going to be a bit lower in the rear when the new shocks go in. What is a good way to measure height under the car to the reference points? I have used various little contraptions in the past but maybe there are better ways to reach under a lowered car to get accurate measurements.
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